A Relaxing Weekend in Seville

The fantastic thing about Spain (especially in Andalusia) is the tapas - tasty, ready-to-eat, two-bite portions of delicious food served at bars up and down the country. We’d been told that Seville is the capital of tapas so we decided to shun restaurants and toured the tapas bars instead. There was no end of dishes to try and no end of bars to try them in. Cost-wise eating tapas isn’t that much cheaper then a meal in a restaurant, but tapas really appeals to my love of pick and mix finger food and we had a great time eating (and drinking) our way around the city.

We discovered a huge range of tapas bars on the street c/Mateos Gago, just east off the main cathedral piazza. Some, like the tapas bar pictured, were clean and air conditioned but felt more like a Paris bistro then a Sevillan tapas bar. Others were incredibly traditional - TV blaring the news in a corner, sticky floors littered with dropped serviettes with bartenders literally chalking up your bill on the countertop.

Our favourite tapas bar on c/Mateos Gago was by far Bar Giralda, an excellent and popular bar, recommended by locals. The fantastically patterned floor to celling tiles lend wait to the fact that it’s supposedly a converted Moorish bathhouse. Inside was packed with waiters, locals and a few tourists, families gathered around rickety wooden tables were tucking in to good, traditional tapas. We sat outside on c/Mateos Gago with an almost direct, but unassuming, view of the cathedral at the end of the road. There was an English menu as well (though we stuck to the Spanish and hoped for the best). We ordered lots of tapas to share and I can barely remember all we ordered, but I do remember the croquets had us fighting to see who would get the last one and the stuffed peppers had the delicious taste of home cooking.

Helpful Tapas Tips

* Surprisingly, for such a central location, the bars were on c/Mateos Gago were predominately filled with locals. Then again we did tend to stick to local eating times - 1 o’clock lunches and 9pm dinners.

* Prices varied incredibly, depending on how central or chic the tapas bar was. Overall we paid 2 Euro on average per tapas, which is probably an exorbitant price for locals, but realistic, considering we were always within spitting distance of the cathedral.

* Remember that a 'tapa' is very small whilst a ración is a full plate of the same dish.

* Generally all tapas bars serve the same traditional fare - jamon Iberico (local air-cured ham), Manchego cheese and croquettes - but looking around at menus I noticed some tapas bars were trying to be more inventive and modern. One place I saw was advertising cheese with raspberry sauce and a separate dish of eggplant with honey. So it’s worth looking at menus (sometimes outside in a frame on the wall near the entrance, sometimes inside chalked up over the bar).

To be honest I was surprised by the Alcazar, a Spanish royal palace, touted as one of the best remaining examples of medieval Moorish architecture in Europe. It wasn’t as grand or as exotic as I had expected, but it was worth a detour of a few hours. Exploring the sprawling, whimsical gardens helped us pass the better part of a hot afternoon and worth the entrance fee alone.

We queued up to see the Alcazar on the afternoon of our first day in Seville. Despite being a Sunday afternoon there was a surprisingly long train of people waiting to get in. I definitely wish we’d brought some water with use as there was absolutely no shade in the square outside the palace. After waiting for the better part of an hour, we paid up at the ticket window and were finally let in.

The palace is a series of unfurnished rooms, arranged over the ground floor (the royal family still live in the upstairs rooms). Originally a Moorish fort, the palace took shape under the Almohades, a powerful family with Berber (Moorish) origins, but subsequent owners have adapted it over time. As a result rooms are unique, each decorated in it’s own style or colour. My favourite, was the room immediately before the garden decorated in yellow and blue tiles with pictures of bees, rabbits and other animals dancing across them.

Despite beautiful tiles there was little else to keep us in the palace so we wondered straight to the garden. Everything you would expect from an elaborate Moorish-inspired, Spanish pleasure garden was there: classical pavilions, bougainvillea, viewing platforms, scented flowers, gurgling fountains, giant palm trees and secluded, tiled benches. The entrance from the palace to the gardens was fantastic, highlighted by a tremendous, arching waterfall that drops from a story above into a cool, fish-filled pool. A very popular spot for visitors to stop and take photos.

We spent the next few hours exploring the different areas in the gardens, resting from time to time on one of the many benches dotted around the gardens. It was a beautiful and restful place. If I were to go back again I would definitely pack a picnic and a good book to while away the time. If I didn’t have the time or the wherewithal to pack a picnic I would try the cafe located in the gardens. I didn’t see the prices, but it looked like a nice spot to enjoy lunch or a snack.

All in all we had a lovely time exploring the gardens of the Alcazar and though I wouldn’t necessarily go back, I would recommend it for first-time visitors. Especially those with a picnic.

There's something wonderful about watching a flamenco concert, delivered by professionals, and then wandering out into the warm Seville evening in search of tapas.

We found Casa de la Memoria one evening in search of flamenco music. My partner is a keen flamenco guitar player so we did hope our visit to Seville with might include at least one flamenco concert. Visions of impromptu intimate performances in bars heaving with locals sprung to mind, but walking around the streets of Seville all we could find were posters for "authentic" and "original" flamenco concerts, dinner with "live entertainment". You could just tell "live entertainment" would likely be a group of dispirited dancers and guitarists. Needless to say, we were a little unsure of where to go. Our guidebook recommended several places, but local advice is always best. So we asked at our hotel, Hotel Alminar, and the receptionist recommended Casa de la Memoria. Despite being almost fully booked out for the evening performance our receptionist was able to scrounge us up some tickets.

Casa de la Memoria is a cultural centre, deep in the medieval centre core of the city. Set inside a 15th century palace Casa de la Memoria hosts regular evening flamenco shows in a beautiful cobbled courtyard, which becomes candle-lit as the evening falls. Performances include examples of traditional flamenco dancing, singing and guitar playing and performers are reputedly of the highest quality, generally young and accomplished. The male dancer we watched had just recently won a national prize - and he made our jaws drop!

The performance was at 9pm. The receptionist recommended we arrive early to secure good seats as there is no seating plan. We arrived 30 minutes early and managed to just get in front of the crowd that started to accumulate behind us. I’m glad we got in early - chairs are laid out around the courtyard, but viewing is rather limited to people sitting in the front row. Luckily, we secured some great seats and were able to pass 2 enjoyable hours watching an enthusiastic flamenco performance by talented artists in a beautiful medieval courtyard. What could be better?

Tickets cost 15 Euros and we paid for them on the door. If I were in Seville again I would definitely go, reserving tickets before so as not to miss out. More information, along with details of other events, can be found on the website: http://www.casadelamemoria.es/entrada.htm

And after the wonderful flamenco performance we stepped into the warm Seville night air in search of some tapas.

I must admit I'm not usually one to be tempted into spas. Manicures, facials and massages aren't my thing, but I'm so glad my boyfriend and I went to this spa - it was amazing! I sincerely urge anyone visiting Seville to spend a tranquil few hours in this unique, Arabian spa located deep underground in Seville's medieval quarter.

The concept behind Arie de Sevilla is based on the centuries old tradition of bathing in thermal baths, popularised by both Arabs and Romans. Deep underground the Arie de Sevilla spa has a series of rooms decorated in a sumptuous Arabian style, complete with hanging lanterns and glittering tea lights. Each room has various pools - including an intimate vaulted jacuzzi room, a deep underground sea salt pool and a huge room containing a series of pools with water of various temperature. It was magical.

So how did we find such a hidden gem? We first heard about Arie de Sevilla at our hotel - they provided some complimentary shower soap in our room. The photos on the brochure looked appealing: deep red bathing rooms and cool tranquil pools. What was even better was the fact that for 31 Euros each we could get a 15 minute aromatherapy massage and enjoy the thermals baths. We asked the people on reception to book us in at once.

The impression we got once we arrived was one of grand tranquility. You enter through the ornate wooden doors of a typical Seville palazzo and wander into reception - located in the courtyard. Twinkly moroccan music was already playing softly in the background. We checked in, paid and received keys to our lockers and our swimsuits (for those visitors, like us, who don't naturally pack swimsuits for their city breaks the spa has both male and female swimsuits they can lend out). We were led upstairs to balconies overlooking the courtyards. Soft, squishy chairs and a cafe room looking very inviting, but the spas beckoned. We were escorted through a door, given our towels and taken to our changing rooms - a separate one for males and females. I should point out that the spa staff inside the spa didn't really speak English so we did find it a bit difficult to understand exactly what we had to do, but we watched other people and picked up what to do (the people on the front desk can speak several languages - so no worries there).

After changing I descended down the steps into the underground pools. It took a while to find each other and I would strongly suggest that if you are going as a mixed group that you arrange some sort of meeting place. The rooms and pools were just as beautiful as they had appeared in the brochure of our hotel. Actually, it was even better. The soft lighting, twinkling candlelight and subtle Moroccan music that we had heard in reception all combined to create a completely relaxing experience. We enjoyed the various pools, lounged in a mint-infused sauna, sipped some mint tea in a room off the main pools and generally let ourselves relax. While we were relaxing in the pools we were called by one of the masseurs to get our massages in a partitioned room behind the main pool room. I've had a few massages before and never really quite enjoyed them but this massage was superb. It was a full body massage, skillfully and carefully carried out and even though it was only 15 minutes I still can't remember a time when my body has felt more relaxed. My partner felt the same. We were both completely relaxed by both the pools and the massage and it was with great difficulty that we decided to go back up stairs and return into the "real world".

It was just an amazing experience, and one that wasn't too costly. If you wanted an even cheaper deal you could drop the massage and enjoy the baths which would cost 17 Euros. Whatever you chose to do I would urge anyone to go. A serious essential experience that really helps you remember that this part of Spain was once quite Arab in it's habits.

We have since learned that the spa has an informative website, where you can also make reservations: http://www.airedesevilla.com/eng/index.htm

I don't think it would be going too far to say that our stay in Seville would have been nothing without Hotel Alminar. Rooms were carefully and stylishly decorated, breakfast was ample and friendly and the staff were amazingly helpful - organising several things for us free of charge.

But let's start with the rooms. You would think a hotel in a historical building in such a central location (we could see the cathedral from our room!) would have been cramped with low-ceilinged rooms, but our room on the 3rd floor was spacious, airy and really well furnished. The beds were comfortable and there was the usual desk, reading chair, television you might expect in a three star hotel. There was even a stereo with flamenco tapes, which we felt was a really thoughtful touch. Our room had 3 massive, floor-to-ceiling windows in the bedroom and en-suite bathroom. And what a bathroom! Tiled beautifully in mosaics, with a huge shower cubicle and a complementary sample product from a delicious spa down the road. I could have lived in that bathroom.
But, alas, we did have a city to explore!

Luckily, the Hotel Alminar is in a totally enviable position to help you explore Seville. Not only is it completely central to the main tourist sites of the cathedral and the Alcazar, but it's also a gentle stroll away from the winding streets of the old quarter - perfect for afternoon and evening tapas cravings.

The continental style breakfast they serve at the Hotel Alminar was really good. They had a toasting contraption (which admittedly did look really daunting) and various breads and pastries to toast. I really loved the fact they had olive oil, as well as butter, nutella and jam for your bread. I think some of the cheeses and hams were probably bought from packets at the supermarket, but they were tasty nevertheless. Fresh fruit and yogurt was also included in the spread which was a nice touch if you were trying to stay healthy or just trying to balance the effects of rich afternoon tapas and evening sangrias.

Really where I think Hotel Alimnar excels and why I would highly recommend this place to anyone is its incredibly helpful and accommodating staff. When we mentioned one of the receptionists that we were really keen to see a flamenco show she not only recommended a good show, but she called the venue to secure us some tickets and gave us tips on what time to arrive and where to sit. We probably would have seen a flamenco show without her help, but it certainly wouldn't have been under such relaxing and well-informed circumstances! The next day we mentioned we were keen to visit the Moroccan spa which provides samples to the hotel. Another receptionist was happy to book us us in for that and show us where it was on a map. At no time did I feel they were doing these things because they were trying to get commission. They just genuinely seemed to be happy to live in Seville and share their good fortune and expertise with us.

I think we would have enjoyed Seville's tapas, sangria and lazy sunny afternoons regardless, but staying at Hotel Alminar certainly widened what we were able to do by helping us book things. Also, after exploring the city it was nice to be able to know we could easily get back to our tranquil room, knowing that the friendly staff were on hand to help if we needed. Ease, tranquility and friendliness - isn't that really the best you could ask from any hotel?