Daytrip to Haapsalu

Situated just under 100 Kilometres from the Estonian capital, Tallinn, Haapsalu is the perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. It is a charming little Baltic seaside town straight out of the days of the Tsars, a kind of Nordic Yalta, if you like. The town has a population of around 12, 000 but the main residential area with the customary post-war tenements are situated inland, while the picturesque attractions are clustered in the old town and at the edge of the water. In fact water features so much on the town that it is often described as the "Nordic Venice" although, personally, I found that epithet a little over the top.

There has been a settlement at Haapsalu for centuries but the establishment of the church of St Nicholas and the adjoining fortifications in the thirteenth century were instrumental in developing a more permanent community; this was the seat of the Bishopric of Osel-Wiek for three centuries and the Episcopal castle has the largest single nave of any cathedral in the Baltic states. Over the centuries different peoples have left their mark on the town, most notably Swedish settlers who undoubtedly influenced the architecture.

In the 1820s Carl Abraham Hunnius, believing the Baltic mud to have a curative effect, established Haapsalu as a spa resort and the aristocracy of St Petersburg came to Haapsalu for holidays. Tchaikovsky was a firm believer in the benefits of Haapsalu mud and was a regular visitor. He is commemorated on the promenade by a stone bench carved with musical notations that plays a loud blast of one of Tchaikovsky’s works as you approach it.

The bench is perhaps the only tacky thing in Haapsalu. Life is relaxed, pedestrian even though this is not to say there is not plenty to do. Haapsalu is an ideal mix of outdoor and indoor, cultural and recreational activities. It is a great place for a day trip from the city but would equally make a convenient and pleasant base for a longer stay.

What I liked best about Haapsalu was the feeling of peace and tranquility away from the capital. I was also struck by the variety and number of activities in this small place offering the perfect mix of cultural and physical pursuits. I would recommend a visit to anyone who appreciates a quiet but active holiday.

Haapsalu can be reached easily by road from Tallinn. Buses leave hourly on weekdays, there are slightly fewer at weekends. The bus ride takes about one and a half hours.

Even in the off-season there are enough bars and restaurants to offer variety for at least a couple of days and it’s not far to walk to the new part of town with its shops and services. Prices are cheap although you can spend more on a blowout at one of the grander waterside restaurants that open only in summer.

There is a variety of hotels and a newly opened backpackers hostel (though backpackers beware, Haapsalu is not on the usual backpacking route and is not really geared towards the demands of hard-drinking Aussies).

The Estonian coast is now regarded as one of the best spots in Europe for birdwatching. The mixture of coastline, bogs, coastal meadows, reedbeds and islands creates a series of environments that attract a huge array of birdlife.

The Matsalu Nature Reserve is the most popular bird-watching area in the country. It is regarded as an important nesting and moulting site for birds.

There are birds that make this area their home but there are plenty of others that drop by as part of their migration and the Estonian coast is a stopping off spot for birds en route to Finland and northern Russia. Spring is the best time ofr birdwatching in this area as thousands of geese and ducks pass through on their way to Lapland.

I'm not a birdwatcher myself but several Estonians mentioned the significance of Haapsalu for this activity and when I was there I couldn't resist climbing the recently built birdwatching tower not far from the Kuurhaus to take in the views.

What I do know is that is willow warbler land and dedicated birders should get in a decent count in Haapsalu.Skylarks, redshanks and oystercatchers are also fairly common. You may also spot lots of herons as the largest heronry in Europe is slightly north of the town.

The Railway Station is a noteworthy Haapsalu building; it is no longer in use but does contain an interesting rail history museum that includes a reconstruction of a nineteenth century station ticket office and waiting room. The museum exhibits chart the history of the railways in Estonia and the role and lives of those employed on the railways. You can see old photographs, uniforms and various documents. The highlight is the Emperor's Pavillion with an ornate tiled floor and impressive mirror.

Outside there is an old locomotive and different carriages from the early twentieth century.

The reason for the striking design of the station is that it was used regularly by the Tsars when they came to Haapsalu so it was decided that it should be a fitting building for the royals. Usually train stations were built according to the same model but because Haapsalu was a holiday resort and would play host to the royal family an exception was made.

There are 4 sections to the station - the passenger building, the Emperor Pavillion, the roofed space and the roofed platform which measures 216 metres in length.

In summer the museum opens Tuesday to Sunday, in winter Wednesday to Sunday (although you should check with the local tourist office if this is something you really want to see).

The main attraction in Haapsalu is the episcopal castle; the grounds are free to explore and you can clamber the walls and towers to take in some wonderful views of the watery landscape. Haapsalu was originally a collection of small marshy islands and this can be appreciated from the top of the bell tower. The "Small Castle" as it is known was a medieval convent and signs point out the use of each section - for example, the living quarters of the monks and bishops.

There is a small admission charge for entry to the museum and there are free leaflets in different languages. Inside the castle is a fun exhibition of medieval weapons and machinery demonstrating basic engineering techniques. Visitors are encouraged to turn handles and heave pulleys in order to understand how and why these machines function.

The adjoining cathedral is stark but impressive and there is an interesting exhibition charting the fate of the church through old drawings and later photographs. Tsar Peter ordered the demolition of the castle in the first half of the eighteenth century so that it would not be attractive to raiders and this in turn led to the cathedral becoming a ruin. In the late 1980s the local congregation began work to renovate and re-open the church and since 1990 it has been used by the local Estonian Lutherans.

If you visit in August do look out for the White Lady who is purported to appear on the window of the Baptistry on full moon nights. The local legend says that a canon fell in love with a local girl, dressed her as a choirboy and brought her to the castle. Alas, when this deception was discovered the girl was "immured" - literally entombed - in the wall of the Baptistry as a punishment. Charming!
The castle/museum is open May to September.