New Orleans: comeback means it’s time to come back

You don’t need a plan in New Orleans. Just follow your senses to see, taste, hear and feel it. The French Quarter is relatively compact and while you don’t necessarily have to stay in the quarter, it’s worth something to stay within walking distance. (And as the vintage signs in novelty catalogues tell you, beware pickpockets and loose women.)

First and foremost, New Orleans is one of America’s great places to eat. Restaurants follow the custom of posting their menus outside the door. Cajun and Creole cooking are king, but there is plenty of variety and the plethora of choices creates a level competition among chefs and establishments that takes culinary excellence to its highest levels. You can probably get a bad meal in New Orleans, but you’d have to work at it. Particularly well represented on New Orleans menus are specialties that include, shrimp, crawfish, seafood and rice. You can size up the restaurants for yourself or get yourself a Zagat subscription for as little as $4.95 for 30 days at www.zagat.com which provides ratings on cuisine, service and ambiance. Or just follow your nose.

Besides enjoying great food, there are also a number of places where you can spend a few hours learning to prepare etouffee, jambalaya, remoulade, gumbo or flaming bananas Foster. A quick Internet search for New Orleans cooking schools will give you a number of options. My wife, Karla and her sister, Jane, chose the Cookin’ Cajun Cooking School, which was located in the Riverwalk Marketplace at the end of Poydras Street. It proved to be an entertaining few hours, along with a great meal – a bargain that’s hard to beat and something truly different. Who doesn’t want to make Slap Yo’ Mamma chicken?

Likewise, you won’t have any problem finding a place to drink. While many probably think that Bourbon Street is named after a type of whiskey and that would certainly fit the typical evening’s activities there, the title actually honors a French royal family. After dark -- and often well before -- Bourbon Street becomes a blend of a carnival midway and some kind of adult Disney World, complete with barkers and even a costumed mascot or two trying to talk you into drinking a "hand grenade" or some such thing. And who would ever think their commemorative drink ware collection could be complete without a genuine hurricane glass? There are also a lot of strip shows. (This is probably as good a time as any to mention that beyond some allusions to Cajun culture and its history, the French Quarter isn’t really "French." It’s more like "Excuse my French.")

Of course, beyond the beverages, there is a lot of great, live music. Just follow your ears. From street corners to stages up and down the street, you’ll have your pick. Personally, I lean toward Cajun and zydeco because this is the place where you’ll find them in their purest forms. But that’s not to say I wouldn’t join the second line in a jazz funeral if it marched by because all of the music is infectious and people have to play pretty well if they’re going to be playing very long in this competitive venue.

Especially by day, peruse the Quarter for its many art galleries, cookware and antique shops. Stroll through Jackson Square and by all means, get a café au lait and a beignet at the Café du Monde before exploring the waterfront and the French Market. Follow your feet, ride the streetcar or take a carriage ride. For whatever it has to offer in the way of entertainment and diversions, the Vieux Carre dates back to the 1700s and it is one of America’s most well-preserved historic districts with distinctive architecture and a feel that is all its own. A good guidebook will fill you in on the background, while helping you select your path. (My favorite is the Eyewitness Travel Guide by DK Books.)

So you missed Mardi Gras? Don’t worry, because you can get an amazing backroom look at some of the festival at Blaine Kern’s Mardi Gras World. Take the free ferry at the end of Canal Street across to Algiers. For $17.50, you get a tour and a chance to peruse the artistry of Mardi Gras in this industrial-size workshop and repository of many oversized characters that make Carnival in New Orleans the world-class event that it is. Want to get a picture of yourself dressed up? There’s a room filled with costumes for you to suit up and a gift shop that handily outdoes the tacky souvenir shops you’ll find elsewhere. Mardi Gras World goes on your "A" list.

People accustomed to a cookie-cutter experience at a typical U.S. Holiday Inn location will be very surprised with the Chateau LeMoyne. This is an historic property and a significant share of the facilities were fashioned out of three townhouses dating back to 1847. The townhouses were designed by the same architect who oversaw the project of New Orleans' past city hall. The hotel is superbly located just a block off Bourbon Street in the heart of the French Quarter, so it is within easy walking distance of the Vieux Carre's sometimes bawdy night scene -- though we didn't notice it being a noisy place at night.

We would compare it to a European hotel and on that basis, it would be a very decent property in terms of room size and amenities. Many have access to common balconies, from which rooms are accessed. (We prefer interior hallway access and we're not much for having people walk past our windows so we chose one of the many rooms without the balcony access. That said, New Orleans is a "balcony town" and many people would find it a positive part of their experience at an historic property.) Our room was clean, well-maintained and decently decorated. Housekeeping was fine and we always appreciate having windows that open to fresh air. There is complimentary wireless internet access and it worked flawlessly. We found the staff to be friendly and helpful.

The outdoor pool is kept at 87 degrees and although we noticed few people making use of it during our January visit, it would certainly have been more than comfortable enough in the water. The breakfast room has a nice view of the courtyard. The buffet is rather limited in terms of selection, but the service is decent and if you like what is being served, you won't go away hungry. We give it no better than slightly below average marks for the price. There is a nice bar area to gather for cocktails and although we didn't use the restaurant in the evening, it appeared attractive and had a decent menu.

Those who into modern hotels might prefer something different, but for place with some real character that still meets franchise standards for quality and service, we have no problem recommending the Chateau LeMoyne as a great choice in the French Quarter of New Orleans.