Fascinating Cordoba

The Jewish Quarter is the best-known part of Cordoba's historic centre, which was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1984 and is one of the largest in Europe. To the northwest of the Mosque-Cathedral along the city wall, its medieval streets have a distinctly Moorish flair to them, reminiscent of the Jews' prosperity under the Caliphate of Cordoba. The neighbourhood consists of a fascinating network of narrow lanes, more atmospheric and less commercialised than in Seville. We just loved wandering around. Of special interest are the Synagogue and Souk. It is something not to be missed and adds an extra dimension to the story of the cathedral mosque.

Jews formed a part of Cordoba's cultural mix from as early as the 2nd Century until their expulsion from Spain in 1492. Under the Moslems, both Jews and Christians were given some religious freedom and self-governing communities. This arrangement was profitable to their rulers, who improved their tax revenue with special household taxes for non-Moslems.

During the 11th and 12th centuries the Jewish population in Spain reached its point of greatest prosperity, intellectual energy and well-being, coinciding with Cordoba's greatest moment in history. Hasday ben Shaprut, the governor of the Jewish community, became an influential minister to the first Caliph, Abd al-Rahman III, increasing his people's well-being and turning Cordoba into the most significant center of Jewish learning and culture in the world, taking the place of the Babylonian School.

In 1315 Simon Majeb built the Synagogue which still stands today. It is one of the three significant synagogues remaining in Spain and is largely unaltered (its Mudejar reliefs were covered and it was used as a church then a rabies hospital, the seat of the shoe-makers' guild and finally a 19th-century primary school). We visited one morning and were fascinated by what we found. The interior includes a gallery for women and plaster work with inscriptions from Hebrew psalms and others with plant motifs on the upper part. Its main beautifully restored wall, has a semi-circular arch where a chest with the Holy Scrolls of Law used to be kept. The buildings around it were probably used as public baths and a Talmudic school. Outside is a Statue of Moorish Philosopher Maimónides.

The rest of the neighborhood has a distinctly Islamic air. Nearby is the Zoco (Souk), a medieval version of the famed Arabic souks which used to dot the urban landscape of the Caliphate. Below the oldest houses are Roman remains, and while some of the houses are increasingly modern, they respect the ancient urban layout.

The hotel is located in the heart of the historic Jewish district next to the Synagogue and is a short stroll from the Cathedral-Mosque. The NH Amistad Cordoba comprises two eighteenth century mansions and an adjoining building with access to the Maimónides Plaza. The careful renovation has restored the interior Mudejar-style courtyard, the neo-classical façade and the ornate woodwork ceilings to their original splendour. Unfortunately, ongoing work to expand the facility was causing some chaos when we visited.

The hotel is four-star and has on-site car parking (if you can find your way here though the narrow one-way streets), 24 hours room service, a breakfast buffet, cocktail bar, restaurant, solarium and a Café Bar. Rooms are supplied with air-conditioning, cable TV, coffee and tea machines, direct-dial telephone, hairdryer, minibar, satellite TV, radio, and wireless internet access.

I have mixed feelings about this hotel because while it is potentially a lovely place when we visited it was being renovated and was far from lovely. Our room had obviously been very recently refurbished; it was clean, modern and comfortable with an excellent bathroom. There were aromatherapy bathroom products and citrus shoe shine. The design will not appeal to some people but then we are all different. The walls, however, seemed to allow exceptional noise from other rooms to intrude. This was very annoying.

There are two dining areas. Amistad is located in the interior of the building and 'El Jardín de Petra' is a small and romantic exterior courtyard for spring and summertime. Periko Ortega, the head chef, prepares an original cuisine based on fresh produce, with influences from traditional Andalusian cuisine. The cold garlic and almond soup with coconut, candied fruit and herring roe, the foie gras with quince, or the "Zuheros" cheese with layered orange are examples of the interesting culinary ideas offered here, however, you pay for the privilege. The best value is in the daily tasting menus which are offered at 36 Euros or 48 Euros.

This would possibly be one of the most interesting religious buildings I have ever seen. The scale, the architecture and the history all combine to make a visit here very memorable. Today the structure is a Christian cathedral but for 400 years it was a grand mosque and the wonderful edifices of the two faiths have been miraculously incorporated into one.

The site was originally home to the basilica of San Vivente which was constructed here in the 6th-century. Following the Islamic invasion of Cordova, construction of a mosque on the site of the church was commenced. This would eventually become the most important sanctuary of Western Islam in the world. The original construction was inspired by the Mosque of Damascus with its ablution courtyard and hall of prayer. The first additions to the basic structure were carried out within the first one hundred years. The courtyard and the aisles of the prayer hall were extended and the minaret that is now embedded in the tower of the cathedral was added. Later a major expansion occurred with the help of the Christian emperor Niceforo Focas. He sent Byzantine artists to the site and also provided the beautiful mosaics used in the area where the imam lead prayer.

When King Ferdinand III reconquered Cordova in 1236 work began on a Christian chapel within the vast mosque. In the 15th century, the original palm trees in the courtyard were substituted by orange trees that now give this area its name. Major work was undertaken from 1523 to build a main chapel, transept and choir. The result was a Latin cross shaped plan and an ingenious integration of the mosque structures within the Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque creation. The various side chapels were the result of people wanting to be buried in the cathedral. Of particular note are the plaster works in the Royal Chapel where Kings Ferdinand IV and Alfonso XI are buried, the Chapel of the Immaculate Conception which was once the baptistery and the Baroque Chapel of Saint Paul.

There is so much of interest here that it is almost overwhelming. The size of the Muslim structure, the richness of the Christian chapels and the way the two have been combined all need some time to absorb. It is one of the few buildings I have visited where I have unable to identify my favourite part. You really need to take a guided tour of the building to get an understanding of how it has developed. Sure, you can walk around and admire the various sections but the unique history here should be properly understood.

The Casa Palacio Bandolero restaurant has a lot going for it. The restaurant is in an area that has been designated a World Heritage site opposite the western side of the magnificent cathedral Mosque of Cordova. The restaurant itself is the former residence of the Count and Countess of Cabra. It is a palace residence dating from the 16th-century.

We only ate in the bar/cafe part of the restaurant rather than in one of the more formal dining rooms but the classic location and the excellent food were still obvious. The bar is a happy, lively area and ordering is easy because they are obviously used to English-speaking customers. We tried the classic paella and can only say it was excellent. Another favourite is salmorejo – a thick gazpacho like soup with jamón serrano and egg on top. In the restaurant itself there is a wide variety of meals from the a la carte menu and the platos combinados.

The restaurant has become part of a network of Green Restaurants in Andalucía, called Red de Restaurantes Verdes de Andalucía. This is a pioneering Project in Spain which aims to encourage the consumption of ecological products from Andalucia by incorporating permanent menus in restaurants across the area. It is something that should be supported.

We were told that you must choose your restaurants carefully in Cordoba as there are a growing number of overpriced tourist places that aren't worth the effort. Unfortunately, we didn’t have the time to explore the restaurant scene but were advised that the following two were unlikely to disappoint.

Asador de Castilla Restaurant at Calle Postrera 15, 14004
This is the place to go if you are craving for some suckling pig or fried lamb. Asador de Castilla is said to have the best in town. The dining experience is also likely to be heightened further because of the setting – at the center of the San Basilio Quarter and in a building with traditional historic architecture, with a beautiful Cordoba-style Patio.

Federación de Peñas restaurant at Calle Conde y Luque 8, 14003.
Close to the Mezquita Mosque and Cathedral, this restaurant serves traditional Andalusian cuisine. It is set in a traditional old house with a courtyard.

Although the hotel is located in a beautiful part of Córdoba's historic-monumental quarter, and a mere stone's throw from the Mosque, you will wake up in the morning in a wonderfully peaceful environment, only broken by the ringing of the old Cathedral's bells. It is close to all you want to see and the city is very walkable. In fact, walking is the only way to see most of the sights.

The hotel, a two-star accommodation in the centre of the Jewish Quarter of this beautiful city, was built in 1889. Its quiet, hospitable atmosphere is perfectly complemented by the quality service offered by its five, friendly employees. You immediately feel at home and can relax and enjoy the surroundings.

Hotel Albucasis can accommodate 24 people in its 15 rooms. 9 are double rooms, while 6 are single. We were told that the hotel also has extra folding beds and cots available if required.
The size means that the hotel has a friendly feel and it’s easy to meet other guests over a drink or at breakfast.

All rooms have air conditioning, heating, internet telephone and television. The room we had was of reasonable size but as expected only basic amenities. If you are looking for luxury or fancy decoration - this is not the place for you. What the room lacked in style was made up for by a nice view of the hotel's lovely garden terrace. The room was clean and there was a nice, if dated, bathroom. Like most hotels we stayed in during our time in Spain, sound insulation within the hotel is not very good.

There's a very good continental breakfast for €6 but there is also a very nice Tea House just round the corner. The reception, dining room and lounge area are all nice but the highlight is undoubtedly the garden terrace. This is in the centre of the hotel so it is quiet, protected from the wind and wonderfully intimate. The location and the terrace were enough for me to justify the room rate of €80 per night.

Other features worth mentioning are the elevator, the indoor car park, and facilities for disabled access. I must say that this is the type of hotel I most enjoy; small, quiet and friendly. If you need entertainment, the city is just outside and there are plenty of bars, restaurants and nightlife if you need it.