Cooking & trekking in Northern Thailand

Learning to cook with Pugi (a thoroughly energetic Thai cook) and trekking with Lert and Cheechoo to visit the Lisu, Karen and Lahu tribes are must-dos in Northern Thailand.

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Stilted bamboo huts with thatched roofs line the green-banked river that flows through Pai. Some of the huts are not situated on the river, but are still very clean and well ventilated. The restaurant has delicious homemade yogurt with granola, and fantastic fresh brown bread.

These comfortable, rustic cabins are interestingly situated around various lagoons with an expansive view of the mountains. The rooms are clean, and quite romantic, lit primarily by candles. The food here is delicious, and the staff is extremely friendly. (Oi, the owner''s daughter, lent me her scooter to go into town to change some money.)

The hill tribes generally live in bamboo houses that are raised off the ground. Throughout the villages, dozens of dogs, chickens, roosters, pigs with their timid little piglets, and the grass-chomping water buffalos roam freely. Each animal adds to the gaggle of sounds and sights. In the morning the wok begins to sizzle with breakfast smells that slowly awaken the "farangs" (foreigners). An old Lahu woman crouched in the corner of the bamboo hut smoked her opium pipe all night. Ear to ear grins greet you as you crawl out of the hut to begin another day of discovery. The people in the hill tribes go about their business, so you feel like you’re truly seeing the day-to-day goings on of the Thai people.

Our guide's name was Lert. He was very good, and can be found on the main street just down a ways from the Internet shop.