Whales, Seals, and the Stunning Purple Mountains of Kaikoura

In a town that's known for its famous seafood, it's hard to judge even a takeaway fish and chips accordingly. While staying at the Adelphi Lodge, just a few doors down from Hine's Takeaway in the town centre of Kaikoura, several people recommended it to us as a reasonable place to get a meal, with very good fish and chips.

One night of our stay, just before a rugby game started on at the local pubs, we decided a quick meal of chips would be just the thing, and so headed to Hine's. And I have to say that all in all it was pretty disappointing. And not just because of the recommendation or the fact that we were in the seafood capitol of New Zealand, and would have expected at least some very fresh fish.

It was extremely ordinary, and one of the least inspiring meals of fish and chips we had in all of New Zealand - as they seem to excel at that particular meal there.

The place itself was pretty run down. There was some seating at least, but it was just a few barstools near the window. The fish was extremely greasy and kind of high priced for what we got. And the chips weren't great either.

This is your typical fish and chips to eat after a night out, as you would get in Britain. Not bad in that respect, though a bit pricey, but not up to the general New Zealand standard.

It is, however, certainly one of the cheapest (if not the cheapest) option you will have for a meal out – even a takeaway in Kaikoura. Food was very expensive there and grabbing a bite to eat for a few dollars was nearly impossible. With the exception of the Subway – this was one of the very few places you could eat for under $7 pp.

An odd but surprisingly nice little find on the road from Kaikoura to Blenheim is a little place known only as 'The Store.'
Given rave reviews in the Lonely Planet guide, and one of (if not the only) stops along the long and stunning coastal road north towards Blenheim - we decided to stop off and have a look at what seem to be becoming a tourist icon.

And it certainly did have it's intrigues and interests. Situated in a nice little stopping area just past the blackish sand beaches north or Kaikoura, and before the long windy road beings to Blenheim, sits 'The Store.'
Nestled in amongst a very intriguing setting that could be New Zealand, or would fit in equally well in Costa Rica - you can have your little lunch either inside the beautiful, almost south American decor of the interior, or on a great little picnic spot outside with the sound of the ocean but a few steps away.

This is a very cool place to stop - it must be said. They sell an array of little things and jams and local condements, and also have a very interesting culinary selection to choose your lunch from. The prices weren't cheap, but neither were they too pricey. If you're looking for a very cheap place to eat you will want to continue north to Blenheim to where there are a selection of fast food restaurants.
But if you want something a bit nicer - then you could certainly do worse. They do a pretty nice coffee, and a selection of expressos. And some of thier sandwhichs and lunch specials at around $7 are extremely tasty and very interesting. We tried a chicken and cranberry on foccaccia with brie- which was extremely good and worth the extra cost.

My only real complaint about The Store - and I always try to give a place the benefit of the doubt on this score and it's easy to catch an off day - was the staff. Across the board they were subpar. One of the girls at the counter was quite pleasant, but the rest were abrupt almost to the point of rudeness. We had to wait for one of our sandwhiches, so my friend was done with his lunch long before I had even started mine, and our waiter was unattentive and abrupt.

Not to mention that in the midst of sitting in this fantastic outdoor setting (where there was a bit of a bird problem, it must be said. Little birds hovered all around us, desperate for a crumb) one of the waiters came out with a big louder hoover and shoved it all around us while we ate - scowling all the while.

It was a real shame, I thought - as the entire group of staff completely took away from what would have been a very interesting little spot to stop. Though given it's location and what it does offer it's still a very good place to stop for a coffee or a bit to eat on your way north - or south.

One of the great little finds in Kaikoura, as you will no doubt have noticed if you are diligently going through your Lonely Planet guide on your way around the country is the Oyster Shack.

In a town that, though beautiful, is shamelessly selling itself to tourism - all the local fish and seafood which should be a steal in this plentiful spot is extortionately high.
For many the trip to Kaikoura is for two things - the whale watching and the cray. As I have before mentioned about the whale watching, it is unfortunately a full monopoly, so unless you're happy to share your whale watching experience with dozens of other tourists for a very small fortune then you're out of options. And the local seafood is a similar situation.

A very similar sight in Kaikoura is to see backpackers at the cheapest hostel in town, eating ramen noodles and a $90 cray. It's a very bizzar arrangement. There are a few little seafood shacks just out side of town on the way north towards Picton and Blenheim which may offer a 'deal' of local cray for $75 each.

And though I realize it's part of the local 'tourism', in my opinion you don't go all the way to Maine to pay the same price for lobster. So I did not partake in the cray.
However, you can't be so near such great local seafood with out at least sampling it. So - if you can't afford a $90 cray, or the extremely expensive seafood restaurants that dot the main street of town, then at least there is a great little alternative.

On the way past the YHA in town, at the corner of the cliffside and on the way to the seal colony (as the I-site for directions once you are in town, it's easy to find) sits the Oyster shack.
And it is pretty much precisly that. But as it the case with most great little seafood places, it is simple and offers only what you need, which in this case is fresh, delicious seafood. It is run by a very friendly local couple who catch the seafood and BBQ it for you on the spot.
And though you can often get an expensive cray here as well, they specialize in little platter of muscles or scallops.

The portions aren't large, by any means. If you are hoping it will fill you up - even for lunch - you will likely be disapointed. But if you are looking for a sample of the local seafood than this is a great place to stop. In a very quiet spot just around the corner from the seal colony you can sit out in picnic style seating and be served your freshly BBQ seafood along with a small amount of salad and rice for around $7.

The service is very friendly and pleasant, and I felt happy to give these locals my business.
I don't always agree with the Lonely Planet's choices for great finds in the area, but in this I will concede that it is a place that must be visited for any seafood lovers visiting the area. Even in mid winter (early July) the scenery was beautiful and the weather allowed for us to sit near the ocean and smell the salt water while enjoying our meal. A great little stop.

Though Kaikoura is one of the most beautiful spots in the south island of New Zealand, and there are plenty of ways to spend your time enjoying the wildlife and surrounding scenery in the day time, its nightlife isn't exactly thriving.
However one nice spot to stop in for a drink and a little bit of socializing is 'The Strawberry Tree'
LOcated conveniently right on the main street of the little town, just a few minutes walk from the I-site and just across the street from the hostel 'Adelphi Lodge.' There is also another bar just next to the Adelphi which seems to absorb alot of the backpackers from the hostel - where as the Strawberry Tree has a bit more relaxed and eclectic surrounding.

It's a basic but very nice little Irish bar - which does show sport when the right game is playing. New Zealand rugby is a pretty safe bet - but for other sports you may want to wander in and have a chat with the staff and see what will be on.
But mostly, in a town that can be over run with tourists, the Strawberry Tree seems to be a little more local. ANd yet it still remains friendly with the foreigners who have wandered in for a drink and a bit of a laugh.
It's a small place, though pretty well set up. With two sections of the bar for seating - each with their own television - if you come in with more than two people you can still find a spot. The decor is apropriate and interesting, and a warm fire going in the winter is always a nice touch. Not to mention that they often offer things like warmed spiced cider and mulled wine on winter nights.
And this is just the right time to visit the Strawberry Tree. It's not got a party vibe - but can be extremely cozy and a really nice little relaxed pub to sit and enjoy a drink and mellow company.
The beer is - however - very very pricey (though this is as standard throughout pubs and bars in New Zealand) at around $7 - $8NZ a pint, and of pretty poor quality. If it's good beer that you are after another pub just down the road does serve Montheiths brews, which is one of the nicest beers you will find on the planet.

They also offer a pretty interesting selection of foods, and though I didn't try them myself, I did see that the portions were ample. But for my part it was also a bit pricey for pub food. (it should be mentioned here, though, that all food is very costly in Kaikoura, and unless you want simple fish and chips - then the food prices at the Strawberry Tree are on the cheaper end of the scale.)

While on our trip around Kaikoura, we enjoyed a really pleasant evening in the warm comfort of The Strawberry Tree watching New Zealand rugby amid some local banter.

In my time in New Zealand I have learned that they have really caught on to tourism as an industry, and every little town is going to try to cash in on what they have for the tourists coming through.

And though I'm all for a town or region making the most of what it has and gaining something from tourism to it's area, I also dislike it when it becomes a racket. And New Zealand is in jeopardy of becoming just that.

So many of the sites and things to do here are over regulated, under value, and over priced. Its a dangerous road to go down, and I hope in the years to come that New Zealand realizes it needs to have a selection of things to do and see that aren't all on the 'tourist trail.'

Which is why I was so happy to discover the seal colony in Kaikoura.

Just a few miles away from the city centre, and a few minutes ride from the YHA is a beautiful and small area of land on the very edge of the coast and cliffs of Kaikoura where the New Zealand fur seals come to breed and sun themselves - depending on the season.
And happily you can come down and watch and enjoy them - completely free of charge.

At this time there is no entry fee, and no parking fee (something I expect to change in the near future if things continue as they have done in recent years) and I highly recommend that you take advantage of it.

The area is clearly marked through out the town and it is very easy to get to. (ask the I-site in the town centre if you are unsure and they can point you in the right direction.)

There are some great walking trails in the area, too, if you feel so inclined.

The place does get busier as the day progresses, so I do recommend that you arrive early if possible. But even so the swarms of tourists seemed to be less than in other sites.
You can pay for the 'seal experience' tours in town, but this is completely unnecessary as at the seal colony you can wander at your leisure with seals all around just sunning on the rocks.

You can even walk right up to them (though I strongly recommend that you leave them be) and it's worth mentioning that they do blend easily into the rocks and surroundings, and you can step on them accidentally if you aren't careful.

But it's a tremendous experience and well, well worth a morning to do. The spot in itself is stunning, and the seals are calm and happy to have their photos taken. There are only a few times of year when there are no seals in the area, so I recommend that you check their breeding seasons, etc before you go.

After my experience in a really great hostel in Hanmer Springs, I was pretty excited about the idea of the Adelphi Lodge and all the things is seemed to offer.

The experience was somewhat less than I had hoped for.

But as always - to each his own. If what you are looking for is a cheap(ish) hostel to stay in right in the centre of town that is filled with students and very young travellers, then this might be just what you are looking for.
It's a bit hip (in a studenty kind of way) and fairly social (though not as much as I would have hoped given the crowd that stay there) If you're looking for a chilled college dorm feel - then this might be just the place for you.

However - in rating it purely on it's accommodation status I can't rate it all that highly.
It's a bit pricey for just how run down it is. It is all very old, very very old though not kept up. The entire place smells distinctly and when the 'free soup' is going in the kitchen both stories were swamped with the smell of food. (and though I do love to come into a B&B with the welcoming smell of food - I can't really say that the Adelphi qualifies)
The rooms were simply dirty. Really dirty. The Adelphi ranks as one of the two hostels I stayed at in New Zealand where I was hesitant to sleep on the bed.

We paid extra (and not too cheap at $64 per night) for an ensuite double room - and the shower was terrible.

The Adelphi boasts a Lot of extras with your stay. Some of them are good and some aren't worth mentioning.
The free soup is a big pot of broth that you will share with dozens of student backpackers. But, it is free and warm and about all you can expect. The worst thing about that is that the kitchen is really not very user friendly, and isn't really sufficient for the number of people who can stay there.

The hammocks outside are really unpleasant - I wouldn't recommend them. And unless you plan to be over there enjoying it - it should be mentioned that there is a very loud bar just across the street.

The good points though include the free video selection. They say that they have a big screen with SKY TV, and this is true in the lounge, but the TV reception isn't great and as there are so many people using it your selection of TV will of course be limited. But if you do get a room with a TV and VCR then they do have a pretty good selection of films you can choose from to watch in your room. I was impressed with that.

And the location is pretty good in that the ocean is right across the street and easy to get to - and the whale watching tours are easy walking distance. There are also a pretty good selection of bars and restaurants all around the hostel.

And the parking is free.
So there are benefits to Adelphi - it all depends on what you are looking for.

Kaikoura as a town is a pretty compact place, and though it rates highly on many travellers To Do List, there are only a few things to do in town outside of enjoying the scenery.

Luckily, enjoying the scenery is a profound thing in this coastal Pacific town, and there is enough view to keep you happy through out your stay, even if you don't take to any of the pricey tourist things to do.

When we arrived in Kaikoura our first stop was at the Adelphi Lodge in the centre of town. On paper the place looks great, even if it was a bit pricier than other hostels we stayed at. But it quickly became apparent that it was much less than it was cracked up to be and after one night there we cancelled our stay and moved to a different place.

We drove along the coast a bit, looking for another place with in our budget (all hostels in New Zealand) and stumbled onto the YHA.

As you will find it you read my review on the New Zealand experience, there is a vast difference in quality between the YHA and BBH system in New Zealand. In my experience the YHAs are - if not the cheaper of the two - certainly better maintained. You are pretty secure in what you will be getting in any YHA, and everyone we saw or stayed in while in the country was very clean and neat and they all offered pretty much the same thing.

And though this isn't always a good thing when you are looking for accommodation, in the minefield of cheap hostels, some notion of what you will get for your money can be a huge relief.

And of all the YHAs that I saw - the one in Kaikoura is my favourite.
It's true that it's nothing flash inside. It's pretty basic - with no big tricks, but it's very clean, very neat and run well. It's got an ample kitchen filled with spices and things left by other travellers that you can use while you are there. The staff were very good - and did all that you need. And happily there was a pretty good variation in the travellers that came there. Unlike other hostels we stayed in which seemed to be nothing but European and Asian student travellers. In the YHA in Kaikoura there were guests of all shapes and sizes - something I find rather important in a hostel experience.

But easily - easily the best thing about the Maui YHA is the location. Located slightly out of the town centre (about a 25 min walk) right on the coast the view from the hostel is amazing. Both in the kitchen area and in the seating outside you get an absolutely incredible view of the sea, the coast and the purple mountains that surrounds the town.
If you are in the market for a double or twin room with shared facilities - request room number 14. It has a spectacular view.

It's also worth mentioning that just around the corner (though best reached with a car if you have one) is a seafood BBQ that is somewhat renowned in Kaikoura as the only place to get any reasonable seafood. It's also run by a very interesting couple, and the food is pretty tasty.

And just about a mile from that is the seal colony where the NZ fur seals lay about the rocks and you can wander amongst them for free - a very cool experience.