Seville Eating and Sleeping

In Spain, eating tapas is like coffee and croissant in Paris - it's a key part of life and integral to local culture, both gastronomically and socially. To go on a 'tapas crawl' - is how most Sevillanos spend their evenings out. You can eat as little or as much as you like, and you can usually find somewhere serving food, whatever the time of day. The seafood and ham are especially good here.

There are hundreds of tapas bars in Seville, on main streets and tucked away in little side alleys. In some tapas bars you have to order at the bar and collect the tapa yourself when it's ready (usually in a matter of minutes), while at others you'll have the option to sit at a table and be served by a waiter - and may be charged extra for the privilege. A tapa will generally cost between 1.50 and 2 Euros.

I strongly recommend one evening of tapas eating but at other times you might decide a restaurant is more your scene. I have previously recommended the restaurants in the Hotel Alfonso XIII (expensive) and the Hosteria del Laurel (cheap) but there is a great range outside the hotels.

These are more expensive than tapas bars; expect to pay at least 5 Euros for a starter (primero plato) and 8-10 for a main course (segundo plato) while in the top places it'll be more like 15 and 25 Euros. Some restaurants have a menú del día, a set three-course meal, with dishes such as gazpacho to start and solomillo (pork fillet) or merluza (hake) as a main course. Menús cost from 8 Euros and are usually good value.

Restaurants (and bars) generally open from about 12.30 - 16.00 and 20.00 - 24.00 - the typical time for lunch is at about 2.00pm while it appears that many Sevillanos have their evening meal at around 10.00pm. We usually ate earlier than this. Santa Cruz was my most popular neighbourhood in Seville so here are two recommended restaurants from that area.

La Albahaca at Plaza Santa Cruz 12
The square itself is an atmospheric dining location. In summer, you can eat outside and enjoy the exquisite square with its orange trees and rose beds; in winter, it is better to dine in the converted palace beautifully decorated with antique furniture, reproduction paintings and exquisite tiling. Prices are very high so this one is for special occasions only; there's also a set menu for 27 Euro.

San Marco at Mesón de Moro 6,
They have good pizza and pasta, as well as other authentic Italian dishes such as prosciutto. But the real attraction here is the setting; perfectly preserved 12th century Arabic baths, with wonderful stone arches. Spanish desserts aren't much to shout about, so treat yourself to the irresistible tiramisu, cheesecake with raspberry coulis, or chocolate marquis with pistachio sauce.

One final choice is La Taberna del Alabardero at Zaragoza 20. This is not in Santa Cruz. This place is perhaps the best-regarded restaurant in town. It's actually part of a renowned hotel school. A typical starter is pastel de berenjenas y gambas de Huelva con salsa mariscada (aubergine and prawn terrine with shellfish sauce). The Salmonete (red mullet) is a big local favourite here. It's cooked with garlic, leek and black olive oil. Carnivores can try cochinillo confitado al aceite, pina y cogollo (suckling pig confit in olive oil with pineapple and lettuce hearts). The school is housed in a converted 19th century mansion and also includes a hotel and an informal restaurant on the ground floor offering a weekday lunch menú for 10 Euros.

I must say I am not a fan of dance displays but my wife was keen to see some flamenco and this seemed to be the easiest way to keep her happy. Flamenco is a Spanish art form with roots deep in Andalusia. Although there are clues as to how this dance and folk music evolved, the details are lost in history or at least they are to me.


Even the origin of its name is elusive. Some attribute it to the early 1500s and the flamboyant Flemish courtiers during the reign of Charles V. Others say flamenco, still referring to the Flemish, was the nationality erroneously given by the common people to Gypsies. Still others claim the name comes from the Arabic fellah mangu, the laborer who sings. Whatever the origins, the Gypsies seem to have consolidated the assorted strains into the flamenco we know today when they began to arrive in Spain during the 15th century.


It was not until after 1700, however, that flamenco came into its own. Throughout the 18th and 19th centuries it flourished, achieving a peak in popularity from about 1875 to 1900. Practically every Andalusian town in that period had its singing cafe. I’m told that Seville boasted five. With few exceptions, the famed singers and dancers were Gypsies.


There are a number of Flamenco clubs in Seville now and it all depends on who you talk to as to which is the best. The clubs offer kickbacks to the hotels so arranging your tickets through them may not be the best bet.

The El Palacio Andaluz happened to be within walking distance of our hotel and we had heard that this was one of the better places. The venue is a renovated warehouse. It includes a large stage area, a typical Andalusian Bodega and plenty of tables with full bar and restaurant service. This is perhaps one of the most spacious places to see a flamenco show in Seville and really is a long way from the original which was staged in small bars. The theatre’s architecture offers reasonable views from any seat, although the ones towards the back are quite a way from the stage. We didn't eat here but many did and the tables were small and close together. The acoustics were good.

It turns out that El Palacio Andaluz has won numerous national and international awards for their shows, which cover a wide range of flamenco styles. This venue was also selected by a national television channel to host a documentary about flamenco.

The show is varied but at about 85 minutes was too long for me. It starts slowly with music then dancing. The dancer slowly increases the vigour of her dancing with the rising tempo of the music. The artists do a lot of clapping and shoe tapping. It then builds as more and more dancers and musicians participate and finally the stage is full of colour and excitement.

The Hotel Alfonso XIII is very much five-star, the Melia Macarena is probably four-star while this hotel is only 2-star. What makes it attractive is its great position in the heart of the Santa Cruz Quarter; in close walking distance to the gardens of Alcazar and most other things in Seville. The location could not be better. The small hotel and restaurant is located in a very beautiful, typical small square, which is car-free, full of tables from the local restaurants, and very close to the Cathedral and Alcazar.

You need to be careful of the rooms here. Definitely look before you buy. There are some dark, airless twin-bedded shoeboxes on the first floor. Some others are a little more spacious but still extremely dark but if you manage to get one overlooking the square it is great. All appear to be air-conditioned. Then you need to check the cleanliness. The standard of cleaning can be rather slipshod; there were stray hairs on the floors and, although the sheets were clean, the top covers on the beds were less so. There is no internet connection.

A reasonable buffet breakfast is served from 8.30am to 10.30am. The fresh fruit salad is good, and there’s yogurt, bread, cheese, ham, etc. but if you want something hot, you need to show up early because the scrambled egg quickly becomes cold and the bacon congealed. Acquiring coffee or tea was more difficult than it should be.

The restaurant certainly attracts you to have an evening meal. The decor is amazing as you can see from one of the photographs. We normally try not to eat at the 'hotel restaurant', but this one was definitely a great place; the food was simple but very tasty and the price is excellent. The service was friendly and efficient and we were not rushed to finish even though the restaurant was almost full.

You can sit to have a glass of wine and read the paper at one of the outdoor tables of the hotel restaurant during the afternoon but the waiters do not encourage this later in the day when they are hoping for diners who will leave a large tip. As this area is the hotel’s only outdoor space it can be a bit tricky.

You need to understand this hotel for what it is. If you want a great location at a reasonable price, this is it. It doesn’t try to be five-star so get out and enjoy the city and use this only as a base. On this basis it’s very good.

We didn’t stay here but we were so impressed by the hotel that we visited several times just to enjoy the great atmosphere and the excellent food and drinks. Dating from 1929, this grand hotel is a splendid palace-style building built around a huge central patio. The patio in turn is surrounded by ornate brick arches. It is all quite spectacular.

The hotel was commissioned by the king of Spain in 1928 to be Europe’s most luxurious hotel. It embodies the tradition, hospitality, aesthetic genius, and harmony of life that characterizes Seville. It has served royal families, heads of state and innumerable personalities from all over the world. If I was in that category I would certainly stay here.

The hotel’s décor, from the lobby to the inner-courtyard, is reflective of typical Sevillian-style. This ambiance also extends to the outdoor swimming pool and gardens, which entice you to relax and refresh under the warm Andalusian sun.

The 147 guest rooms pay homage to different eras of Seville and Spain’s layered past. Varying between Isabelline Baroque, Castilian, and Moorish-style, all house authentic antiques and vibrant walls covered in a luxurious blend of silk and linen. The walls in the Deluxe Rooms (the standard room) are wrapped in multi-hued silk and linen and there is antique furniture alongside modern-day amenities. Rooms overlook the hotel’s enchanting gardens, patio, or historic city centre. Some rooms have a terrace with wrought iron balcony. The bathroom has marble floors and is tiled in local Sevillian ceramics. Each includes a soothing rainforest shower and bathtub along with plush robes, slippers, and luxury bath amenities. A hairdryer and separate phone are also provided.

All guests enjoy complimentary access to the Fitness Centre. This can be utilized 24 hours a day with a guest room key. The centre is outfitted with treadmills, stair steppers, stationary bikes, and rowing machines. Each machine has an individual TV and sound system accessible with headphones. To refresh guests after an invigorating work-out, complimentary mineral water and fresh fruit are provided.

The prestigious Restaurante San Fernando and Bar Alfonso are outstanding. Quite clearly the opulence of Bar Alfonso has not diminished from its glory-filled past. Ornate saffron Triana wall tiles feature Sevillian designs while regal ruby seats are contrasted by antique dark wood furnishings that date back to the hotel’s inauguration. An old wooden fireplace lends an intimate nuance with crystal chandeliers illuminating the room. This is ideal for an afternoon coffee, tea, pastry or homemade tapas. Sample dishes include: thinly sliced Spanish cured ham, cured pork loin, Manchego cheese wedges, chicken croquettes, baby shrimp omelettes, grouper fingers, squid rings, cod fritters, and marinated fish.

On our first visit to the restaurant one afternoon, we had the best hot chocolate we have ever tasted. We couldn’t wait to go back for dinner. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, Restaurante San Fernando is situated in the hotel’s central courtyard .During the day, the charm of the Mudejar Patio’s Moorish arches and Arab-style architecture combine with a murmuring ivory fountain to provide a serene, romantic background for a memorable meal. At night, low lighting in the courtyard reflects the warm tones of the hotel’s outer walls while ornate wrought iron chairs lend a distinctive Andalusian touch. Everything is expensive but it really is memorable.

The Tryp Macarena hotel advertises that it is located right alongside the Guadalquivir River. It is not. It seems that you cannot rely on any advertising material these days. While it is adjacent to the old city wall it is quite a hike from the main places of interest in town. We walked back from the cathedral one day and while this is a delightful walk through the old town, it is a long way and you are likely to get lost. Fortunately the hotel is on the C4 bus route which loops around the city and it only costs 1.10 Euro to get to the centre where you can walk to all the sights. A taxi is about 5 Euros.

We found check-in quite easy and we were given a nice room overlooking the old city walls. There was a little balcony and a huge bathroom with marble floor and walls. There was satellite TV, wireless internet access and all the usual facilities except an iron and tea/coffee making. The latter, of course is rare in Europe. Everything appeared to be quite clean. The hotel is situated on a busy corner so there is quite a bit of traffic noise but the windows are solid and thick and noise was not a problem. When we opened the windows, because we don’t like air-conditioning when it is not needed, noise was significant early in the evening but was OK during the night.

We ate at the hotel on the first night because we were tired and found the food and service quite good. Don’t expect anything too exotic but what we had was very satisfying and there is a good menu and wine list. The restaurant opens from 1pm to 3.30pm and then from 8pm to midnight. The Spanish sure do eat late! The restaurant was an elegant place with abundant old-world charm and typical Andalusian style. We enjoyed it.

The breakfast buffet operates from 7am till 10.30am. The breakfast was first rate with plenty of choice, but the head waiter was rather abrupt and had an argument with one of the other guests. I’m not sure who goes for this but the breakfast buffet offered sparking, white and red wine. The yogurt, fruit and toast were my style but there was also a good choice of hot dishes.

There is a swimming pool but it was not open when we were there, a business centre with reasonable facilities and a small lobby bar. The Reception area has a nice covered patio area with pretty mosaics, a fountain and a little boutique. There are comfortable seats here if you manage to get one before the tour groups arrive. Reception will organize sightseeing tours, golf, flamenco evenings and river trips.

Although it is quite a way from the city centre there is a nice park across the road, the city wall is interesting and the nearby El Palacio Andaluz flamenco show is worth seeing.