To Helsinki and Back

Situated just a block from Esplanade Park (where a seagull is perpetually perched atop the statue of Runeberg), Hotel GLO is the smaller, boutique hotel owned by the more luxurious and expensive Hotel Kamp around the corner. The street itself is conducive to walking and shopping as there is little vehicular traffic and the area is a central shopping district. In fact, connected through the lobby of the hotel is a sort of mall. That is, there is a long corridor connecting the storefronts so, I assume, one can shop freely during the winter months when Finland gets bitterly cold.
As you enter the GLO, you are greeted by dark, warm colors. To your left is a large bar with tables and waiter-service. To the right is reception where the concierge and crew are all exceptionally friendly and fluent in English. Check in takes moments and a bank of small elevators takes you up to your floor.
The hotel is deceptively big; each floor is a series of longer corridors than one would expect. The doors are large and paneled with a burnished wood, adding to the overall contemporary feel that is so prevalent in Finnish design. The room was spacious and well-appointed. The wood floors were dark wood, maybe mahogany, the chair at the desk was leather, the TV was a nice-sized flatscreen. To conserve energy, the keycard must be inserted into a slot near the entrance before anything will turn on. It's a good system, as it helps you to remember to take the card with your when you leave.
The bathroom was one of the more curious parts of the room. Slightly raised from the rest of the room, it shared one wall with the entry hallway and another with the room. The door--I should say doors--was what was strange. They were nesting doors of frosted glass that met at the corner and didn't seem to quite close fully. It was a very cool idea, allowing light to pass through the translucent panels, but it would have been just as well served by having one sliding door, not two. That said, the black-tiled bathroom was spotless and entirely functional. The shower was a large and had great pressure, something that can not be heralded enough after a long flight.
Internet access is free, though you must obtain a code from the front desk for every 24-hour period. The television has many English stations and offers movies as well. One of the nicest things about the room, however, was the bed. Aside from being large and comfortable, it was made up in a curious way. Instead of one set of sheets and covers, etc., there was one comforter for each side. This was, to me, ingenious. One need only share a bed with a cover-hog once to appreciate this masterful piece of Finnish engineering.
The restaurant in the hotel is on the second floor and serves an outstanding breakfast. The bar in the lobby provides great drinks and nice views of the street. If you can get a good deal at the GLO, I highly recommend it. The staff was wonderful, helping us with restaurant suggestions and anything else we needed. The general attitude in Finland is friendly and the fact that just about everyone speaks flawless English certainly helps.

The restaurant and bar in the Hotel GLO are both under the name La Cocina. The bar is in the hotel lobby, easily accessible from the elevators and stairs, the street, or from the shops behind the hotel. The bar is quite large, with an extensive wine list and great deal of choice among just about all other types of grog. While I never ate at the bar, they claim the food has a Catalonian influence. With a grand selection of wine and cava, it's believable. The only real problem with the bar is that the seating is a bit limited and hard to navigate. When chairs get moved around, you find yourself partially trapped by the large (though comfortable) red velvet chairs. However, the table service is excellent, so you won't be ignored. There are a few bar seats further down the bar on an extended wing of the bar. The actual bar is large and imposing, and can be a bit perplexing to order from seeing as there doesn't seem to be definite spot to pay. The front is mostly glass, behind which food and drinks entice you.
The bartenders are friendly and helpful, offering their knowledge on a variety of drinks. I tried a Scottish beer I'd never had before, as well as a Japanese scotch that was decidedly less smooth than I'd anticipated, though interesting, to be sure. The bartenders will also help you to navigate the wine list and will tell you honestly what they do and do not like.
Upstairs, the restaurant is similarly red. Red and black seem to run throughout the hotel (and Helsinki for that matter) as staples of the sort of mod design. Function and lineality are the defining features of the dining room, though it is comfortable and welcoming. Like most hotel restaurants, large windows look out onto the street below.
If you are staying at the hotel, the breakfast buffet is free. If you are not staying at the hotel, I don't know how they know that and I would suggest going there for breakfast. Look sleepy and pretend you just came downstairs. The room is usually busy with guests and tourists getting ready for a busy day. Water and various juices are laid out in pitchers, and urns of hot tea and coffee, as well as an espresso/cappuccino machine, are ready and under constant supervision so as to be full.
The food is fresh and decidedly Baltic. There are standard breakfast foods: cereals, oatmeal, waffles, eggs, bread, and pastries, but don't over look the rest. The cold cuts and miniature bratwurst are delicious, and the smoked gravlax is as good as any lox you'll find in New York. The waitresses busing the tables are all extremely friendly and will help you with special dining requests. The restaurant itself is large and seems to be separated between breakfast area and lunch/dinner area. However, seating is open, so find a spot you like that's open and enjoy. This is a great way to fuel up after an early run around Helsinki and prior to walking around the Sea Fortress or any other sights you had in mind.

Helsinki sits on a small peninsula of Finland, in amongst hundreds of tiny islands that dot the water. The town is easily navigable and it seems that most roads lead to water. The quay is home to the berths of a few major ships including Viking Line Cruises, Nordic Jet Lines, and the SuperSeaCat. Likewise, the seafront is faced by shops and restaurants and supports the daily flea- and farmers' market that sets up shop at the top of the quay. The busiest day seems to be Saturday when many more vendors come out to hawk handmade local souvenirs and wares. On most other days, t-shirts are sold from tents, while food, drink, and produce carts cater to passers-by, tourists, and regular everyday shoppers.
Though there is little lee from the wind coming off the water, the harbor is worth a trip. Market Square is great for collecting gifts for people back home or, like we did, buy a Finland hat to keep you warm after you egregiously underpacked. There are great views back towards the city, along with great shots of Helsinki Cathedral. You can look out to sea towards Suomenlinna, then walk over to anyone of many booths offering ferry rides out to the island fortress itself. If you are heading to Estonia, ships leave from the Olympiaterminaali on the west side and the Katajonakan on the east.

The Suomenlinna is one of the most popular attractions in Helsinki, though technically, I suppose it is not actually in Helsinki. A few companies run ferry service to and from the island fortress and ferries leave virtually constantly all day long. Find a boat that suits your time and enjoy a cup of tea, coffee, or beer as you pull out into the harbor. The boat is the only fee you need to pay to see the islands. Some of the indoor sights (museums and such) require a nominal fee for admittance, but strolling the grounds is free.
The boat trip takes about 15 minutes and is a calm trip, albeit a cool one outside of the summer months. You are treated to great views of waterfront Helsinki and the small islands that you pass on the way out. You are first greeted to Suomenlinna by an old WWII-era submarine in drydock. As you turn in towards the dock, the old walls of the fortress hem you in and the occasional bridge passes overhead. As you disembark, orient yourself inside the visitors center and pick up a map in the language of your choice.
Allow yourself at least two hours to walk around. If it's a nice day, there are plenty of photo ops (and there's a brewery on one of the islands).
Construction of the sea fortress was started in the 18th century and was occupied by both the Swedes and the Russians during its eventful history. The battlements vary in their longevity, some lasting since cannon bombardments by wooden ships, some only since their bolstering for WWII. Huge guns still sit, staring imposingly out to see and, oddly, back at the city. Be sure to wear good, supportive shoes or boots. The ground can get mucky and is uneven in parts. The bunkers and gun emplacements have been built into the rocks and dug up out of and then covered in grass. Some of the entrances are decidedly hobbit-like.
The islands are still in use by the navy for cadet-training so upkeep is ongoing and tractors and gardening equipment are constantly on the go. The museums tell the history of the fortress and provide some really cool stories about the battles between the Finns, Swedes, and Russians, and include artifacts (swords, uniforms, artillery shells) and models. One museum was the commanding officer's house and is still filled with a hodge-podge of furniture and art.
After walking around in the fresh air for a while, I recommend stopping by the brewery. Along with a few restaurants and cafes, it's a great way to recharge before heading back to the dock and the ferry to the mainland. The arched roof of the brewpub adequately invokes antiquity and pilsner and pale ale are actually excellent beers.
If you were bringing kids along, this would be a great day trip, allowing plenty of room for children to run around and tire themselves out. There are guided tours though they are not completely necessary. It is fun to wander and to happen upon some of the tunnels and batteries on your own. Regardless, this is a great way to spend a nice day in Helsinki, though I imagine it could be a bit bleak in the winter, so dress accordingly.

The SuperSeaCat was the large sea-going ferry that ran between Helsinki and Tallinn. I managed to take it from Helsinki to Tallinn almost exactly one month before it went bankrupt and terminated service. While not actually a catamaran, the SeaCat name still stuck. The ride was not a smooth one, at least not in September. The Baltic has a reputation to uphold, and it upheld it when I went. We'd had a lot to drink the night before leaving Finland, so that, coupled with the earlyish morning departure was enough to make my stomach surge every time the boat lurched. I had not been seasick in probably 10 or 12 years, but the pitching and yawing of the SeaCat nearly did me in. That said, it was a quick and efficient way to get across the Baltic. Tickets were probably around €40 and the staff were helpful, telling us when to be where in order to avoid missing the boat.
Now, your options are the Viking Line (http://www.vikingline.fi/index.asp?lang=en), Tallink (http://www.tallink.ee/ee/), and the Lindaline (http://www.lindaliini.ee/).