Missing Tokyo

On Planes and Airports

Using technologies half a century old and a medieval guild-like organization, modern airplanes and airports pose heavy dilemmas to the eternal pilgrim. Unnecessarily, airlines are often regulated by trade agreements between countries; most airlines connecting two given countries belong to them and national airlines enjoy unfair advantages at their home airports. That means competition is almost nil; the natural consequence is that we – the travelers – pay inflated prices and are offered obsolete technologies, delays and often, bad food. With the Concord gone and no other alternative technology to be adopted as a mass transport method in the next years, it seems the average speed of our trip will continue to drop, while a change in the industry’s practices is improbable. Are we heading back to the days of "Around the World in Eighty Days?" Would cruises become again a major travel option?

Random Stops

This cartel-like arrangement of the industry means that we often find ourselves as "transit travelers" in unplanned places. The needed stop in a flight between Bangkok and Los Angeles would be determined by the airline we use and not by the shortest route available. Imagine the city buses using such an approach: Bluehound will always stop at its own terminal five kilometers north of downtown, while Redhound would use its own on the southern side of town, while I simply wanted to move from the museum to the coffee shop!

Having found a convenient flight with Asiana, I landed in Seoul for eight hours.

Spare Time

How can eight hours in an airport be spent? In a previous trip, I spent a night at the San Francisco International Airport waiting for a connection from Taiwan to Phoenix; the place was so deserted that at 3 AM I found myself studying a defibrillator’s instructions sheet.

I had never visited Korea and since first visits to travel hubs are always a prelude to a future and more detailed visit the visit was of special interest. Before the trip, I studied the airport website and to my delight found it offers tours to the surroundings including downtown Seoul. All along the way I tried to decide which tour I would pick. Markets or downtown? Temples or DMZ? I was scheduled to arrive at 8:20 AM, the perfect time for booking the tours.

Once in Seoul, I would have anything between four and seven hours for touring the city; most of the tours offered fitted in this window. Usually that would be enough for having a glimpse of the city’s main sights.

Fast Winds

"Due to the winds we would be landing slightly before schedule," the captain announced at certain moment, and I pictured myself taking the longest tour of Seoul.

Yet, with no explanation, we landed after our scheduled time and too close to the tours departure time to allow me booking one. Where there is no real competition, efforts and explanations are skipped.

Eight Hours

Spending eight hours in an airport is not easy. Resigned, I decided to stop at Au Bon Pain and to make a winning plan while enjoying a coffee and having a sandwich; I was hungry after having skipped a bad meal during the flight

The math was simple. Two meals would consume two hours; a coffee would take care of another one; that would leave five hours of wandering among the shops. Five hours shopping around? There was nothing I needed!

Yet, I would be able to see the commercial side of the Korean culture. What do they sell and buy and more how they do behave in such a place. Do they prefer cellular phones or traditional tea? Shortly after, I found an internet connection and amused myself by uploading fresh pictures from the airport; shops, restaurants, works of art, news and movies completed the visit.

Would observations based on an eight hours visit hold any relevance? As usual, such questions are questionable; the first eight hours in a country are seven times more important than eight hours in the 77th day. Then, our impressions of the new culture are fresh, sharpest, and the differences and highlights clearest.

Unquestionably, I had eight hours for tasting the local culture.

Incheon is Asia's sixth busiest airport in passengers’ number, the world's eleventh largest in number of international passengers and the world's fifth airport in terms of freight. The airport was inaugurated in 2001, on land reclaimed from the sea that united the islands of Yeongjong and Yongyu.

Since 2006, it has been consecutively rated as the best airport in the world and received a 5-star ranking by Skytrax, an award shared only by Hong Kong’s International Airport and Singapore’s Changi Airport.

Few airports of this size manage to keep uncluttered, functional and friendly surroundings. Incheon does that due to its simple design; its three main buildings fulfill distinct functions, and navigating within the complex is straightforward.

The transportation center is outside the terminal and offers parking lots and is the arrival point of public transportation services from Seoul. Next to it is the huge arch of the main passengers terminal, where the ticketing, customs and security checks are placed on its ground floor and the terminals for Asiana and Korean airlines on its second floor. The linear Concourse Building is accessed from the terminal through the Starline train and serves foreign airlines.

The Tours

After passing through a few airports, the scene becomes clear: a shopping mall, security checks and fast food. What can an airport add? Local culture! Bangkok's Suvarnabhumi offers wonderful touches of the Thai culture, including traditional teakwood structures and Thai dancing. Incheon Airport in Seoul offers a rich display of Korean art and craftsmanship but added also an unusual touch: tours to the surroundings for the benefit of transit travelers.

However, the trips demand passing through the immigrations and thus passing all the tedious security checks again upon return. The trips are arranged according to their length; the shortest ones are operated several times during the day while the long ones depart only in the morning hours.

The shortest tour is called the "Temple Tour," it last an hour and costs $5; it departs at 9 AM, 11 AM and 3 PM. The tour visits Yonggungsa Temple, a typical Korean one founded in 670 AC and located at Incheon City near the airport.

A two, four and six hours tours at the Korean Wave Hall - the biggest shopping center in the country - are offered as well. The shortest tour offers just shopping and dining, while the medium length one allows witnessing some local art, history and culture at its Traditional Korean Cultural Exhibition. The longest tour adds to the previous experiences a traditional Korean massage.

The Drama Tour longs three-hours; it costs $40 and departs at 8:30 AM. It explores Sido, the TV drama 'Full House' filming location. The four-hour Incheon City Tour offers a visit in Incheon’s Chinatown, and to the Freedom Park where there is General McArthur's statue.

The Seoul City Tour lasts five hours and costs $50; it explores downtown Seoul, especially Gyeongbokgung Palace, Insadong and the Cheonggyecheon River, and departs daily at 9 AM. Another option in Seoul is the Market Tour, it lasts three hours and explores the traditional Namdaemun or Dongdaemun markets. It costs $50 and begins at 9 AM.

If having seven free hours and being at the airport at 8:30 AM (weekdays, except Monday), then the most exciting tour is the one reaching the DMZ between South and North Korea ($60).

The tours demand at least four people.

Shopping

The airport offers a plethora of shops even in the boarding area. Surveying them is beyond the scope of this article, but it is worth mentioning that there are no bargains. As far as I could judge prices were slightly higher than in the US. A shop that caught my attention was named "Elecronics & Ginseng."

Facilities

At the boarding area of the Passenger Terminal Building, there are two areas featuring good computers with a fast access to the internet. Many of my airport pictures in this journal were uploaded from there, almost in real-time. Nearby are areas featuring big screens showing news and movies. Showers and massages are offered within the boarding area. All these are superb options for transit passengers.

Eating

I have never seen so many dining options in an airport. I surveyed a few, but any serious attempt would take weeks and a substantial budget. Despite that, I took note of the most interesting options, they included:

Jayeon: this is he best Korean restaurant in the airport and offers traditional dishes like codfish and clam soup, unyang bulgogi, baked dwenjangmero and yeongjong crab skewers among other delicacies.

Chidori: is a Japanese restaurant specializing in nabe udon.

Paris Croissant Kitchen: despite its name, this establishment serves steaks, pasta, pizzas, sandwiches and salads.

Café Bizbaz: offers a salad buffet, omelets and spaghetti.

Tamati: attempting to satisfy health conscious people, Tamati serves sandwiches, rolls and coffee prepared from extra-fresh ingredients.

Bon Bibimbap: serves bibimbap variations including the green ginseng and beef ones.

The main coffee shops featured are Au Bon Pain, The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, Gloria Jean’s Coffee, and Paris Baguette.

A Pleasant Duty

A stay at an airport is usually unpleasant. Crowds, security checks, immigration stamps, custom forms, ticketing and checking in or out transform the experience into a questionable one. Visiting one of the biggest airports in the world could hardly hold a promise of joy.

Despite that, I found the reason why Incheon has been repeatedly voted the best airport in the world. Simply, it was enjoyable.

Incheon Airport

Located in a small pavilion occupying one of the sides of Incheon's boarding area's long arch, Delisky offers a rather simple environment that puts emphasis on the right spot: Korean food. At the other side of the pavilion is Au Bon Pain; both establishments share the tables placed between their counters.

The pavilion being open to the central corridor of the terminal and the tables being rather simple, the stay at the place was not very comfortable; actually the coaches next to the boarding gates were better, but the prospect of an authentic Korean meal was tempting enough for stopping there despite my not being hungry.

Korean Food

The Korean cuisine is based on rice and other grains, noodles, tofu, vegetables, and meats. Its main characteristic is the large number of side dishes (called banchan) accompanying steam-cooked short-grain rice as well as by Kimchi, a fermented and spicy vegetable. The spicing includes sesame oil, doenjang (fermented soybean paste), soy sauce, garlic, ginger, and gochujang (red chili paste).

However, early myths related to the foundation of Korea center on grains; one describes how Chumong received barley seeds from two doves sent by his mother after establishing the Goguryeo Kingdom. Other myth speaks of the three founding deities from Cheju Island that wed three princesses of Tamna; the deities brought seeds of five grains that became the base of Korean agriculture.

Agreeing with the legend, barley and millet were the main staples of the Korean in the remote past and were supplemented by wheat, sorghum, and buckwheat. Rice was not an indigenous to Korea; it became the grain of choice only during the Three Kingdoms period (first century BC until the seventh century AC), when it became an acceptable currency for paying taxes in Silla.

Rice was not the only external contribution to the Korean cuisine, the troubled nineteenth century caused the introduction of Western, Chinese and Japanese ingredients and recipes that combined with traditional dishes to create the modern Korean cuisine. As in all of Asia, the most remarkable introduction was that of chilies from the Americas, which practically conquered all the local cuisines.

Udong Kimchi

"Delisky" specializes in Udong dishes; their Udong Kimchi caught my attention due to its reference to kimchi. "Udong" is the Korean name of a similar Japanese dish called "Udon," both apparently have their origin in China; though by now the truth is hidden by thick layers of nationalistic myths in each one of the three countries. In any case, the serving practices and side dishes served with the core soup vary from place to place and from season to season.

Udong is a soup containing mainly thick and round wheat noodles; chopped parsley, green onions, popped rice (or something looking like that), and chopped red bell peppers. The soup is spiced with gochujang and accompanied by pickled radishes and kimchi. Delisky serves several types for 6000 wong each; variations include additions of dumplings, fish paste, rice rolls, and kimchi.

Since the dish requires preparation, it is ordered and paid for at the counter, where a receipt with a number is given. Once ready, the cook calls (in Korean or English, as per the identity of the customer) the receipt number and the customer picks it up from the counter. Once the meal is ended, the tray is put in a special place next to the counter. The preparation time is around five minutes.

The dish was served with stainless steel chopsticks and a fitting spoon; this type of metallic cutlery is typical of Korea and rarely seen in other Asian countries. The chopsticks are used for picking up the solids, while the spoon deals with the hot soup.

First, I took a sip of soup. Its temperature was adequate, not too hot but not lukewarm. The gochujang was in enough concentration to give a bit of color, but not to make chili-burns in the mouth; however, as the receptors in the mouth get saturated with capsaicinoids, the hot taste build up, by the end of the big bowl of soup my mouth was almost on fire. The veggies added some taste and texture, but the dish was built around the tasty noodles. Despite my being reasonably versed in the use of chopsticks, thick and slippery noodles – either of rice or wheat – always pose a problem for me. Simply it is very difficult to raise them out of the soup; luckily, the first bite provided me with the required stamina for the required extra-effort. The kimchi was excellent; it added its very peculiar pickled-hot taste and leafy texture to the dish, the pickled radishes blended superbly with the other ingredients.

Again, I got a meaningful cultural experience at the most unexpected place, a restaurant half-hidden in the boarding area of a big international airport.

One of the joys of travel is the opportunity to check similar products, services and chains in different places. Along time, Au Bon Pain became a favorite stop of mine in Bangkok, where it helped me to overcome the lack of bread in the local diet whenever needed.

Au Bon Pain

Created in Boston in 1978, Au Bon Pain is a bakery chain that serves also good quality coffees; its French name translates as "At the Good Bread." Its distinctive shops can be found in many Asian locations; their yellow and white design makes them easy to find. In any case, finding the stores is worth an effort.

Menu

Au Bon Pain's menu emphasizes bread related products, especially sandwiches and bagels, though cookies, croissants and muffins can also be found. The most important feature - and the one differentiating this chain from similar shops everywhere - is the emphasis put on fresh bread and products of top quality. I have not found better, fresher or tastier bread in Asia.

Coffee is the main hot beverage offered by Au Bon Pain; despite its limited choice of mainstream coffees (do not expect to find fancy beverages here), the coffees served are usually of high quality; being in Asia, cold versions - always more expensive than the hot ones - are also served. Teas and chocolates complete the list.

Incheon Airport

More often than not, the boarding area of airports is a sad affair void of attractions and shops. Usually that is of no concern, since we spend there just the few minutes before boarding the plane. However, if waiting for a connecting flight - what is called being in "transit" - and not willing to leave the area and pass all the security checks again upon return, then the wait can be tedious.

Incheon Airport had won many international prizes and is widely recognized as the best airport in the world. Knowing that, I expected something better and was not disappointed. When I found in the boarding area, and early in the morning, a branch of Au Bon Pain, I knew I could survive there a month-long stay.

Incheon's Au Bon Pain

Located in a small pavilion occupying one of the sides of the boarding area's long arch, Au Bon Pain offers a rather simple environment, which is in sharp contrast with its city branches. At the other side of the pavilion is Delisky; both establishments share the tables placed between the counters.

The pavilion being open to the central corridor of the terminal and the tables being rather simple, the stay at the place was not very comfortable; actually the coaches next to the boarding gates were better, but the prospect of a fresh slice of bread were tempting enough to attract waiting travelers.

Bread Talk

Before ordering, I studied the menu at the wall behind the counter. Taking my time, I then studied the products in display. A prominent sign claimed the roast beef used in the sandwiches originated from Australia, that the chicken was Korean, the smoked turkey was American and that the smoked ham was Korean; recently, this has been a hot topic in Korea. An obvious difference between this branch and others I have visited was the wide variety of teas available; obviously the Korean culture was having a positive impact. Another distinction was the display of prepared sandwiches in a refrigerator open to the customers' side of the counter. That was a disappointment; in this chain sandwiches are usually prepared in front of the customer on bread heated in an oven seconds before. The sight meant the bread would not be served hot.

Thus, I decided to choose the breakfast set instead of a whole sandwich. The set included half a sandwich, a cookie and a drink; it was offered for 8000 won, while a full sandwich cost 9000 won and an espresso cost 2500 won. Being smaller in size, it also offered me an opportunity to check out later another restaurant.

While absorbing all this data, a waitress approached me and asked in good English what was my choice. The Breakfast Set with an Arizona Chicken sandwich, a raisins cookie and an Americano coffee were my choices. Before leaving the counter, she taught me how to say "thank you" in Korean; unfortunately I forgot and thus I'll need to return there for a second lesson.

The sandwich was chilled and wrapped in plastic; I looked at it with scorn. The wheat bread held together slices of grilled chicken breast, cheddar cheese, tomato, and Romaine and Chili-Dijon spread; despite its temperature, the bread was fresh and tasty. After the first bite, the sandwich quickly disappeared within the hungry traveler. The cookie was as good as cookies can get and was an excellent companion to the very decent coffee I enjoyed there. Due to the conditions, instead of the fresh milk offered by regular stores, small packages of UHT milk were offered here, but that was forgivable.

A few hours later, I found myself returning for another cup.

On the Verge of Skipping Bi Bim Bab

Traveling from Thailand to Los Angeles with Asiana meant having three meals onboard. The first one was a very late dinner – or was it a very early breakfast? – on the way to the stopover in Seoul. The insipid, shapeless rice and the suspicious meatballs convinced me to skip the following meals during the last leg of the trip; I could no expect the airline to redeem itself with such a short notice. After landing at the Incheon airport I enjoyed several restaurants and prepared myself to a meal-less almost eleven hours long flight.

The second plane was of better quality; it was more modern and included more varied facilities. Among the magazines and brochures provided to the passengers was a menu. I picked it up and studied the dinner and breakfast options, but only after the landscape below had disappeared under a thick layer of clouds. The dinner included two main dishes; the Western style one was "Beef Tenderloin Steak" ("302 kcal" was printed next to it). The Korean style option advertised "Bi Bim Bab" (396 kcal), a name that meant nothing to me; the short description next to it was an excellent example of vagueness.

On the Verge of Skipping Bi Bim Bab

I have learned not to expect too much from Asian prepared Western style steaks and I was not in the mood for yet another rice dish. Planning to concentrate on the fruits and coffee, I watched the reaction of the Korean people near me when the stewardess approached them. All of them were eager to get Bi Bim Bab; "obsessed" may describe better their reaction.

"If I want just the coffee, it doesn’t matter which dish I order," I reasoned while asking for the same. The stewardess seemed very please of my choice, smiled, and passed me a loaded tray. However, on my way to pick up the desired fruits, I noted a small piece of folded paper; its title was "How to enjoy ‘BI-BIM-BAB’." That caught my attention.

How to enjoy ‘BI-BIM-BAB’

Written in English, Japanese and Chinese – and obviously skipping Korean – the colorful paper explained with many errors and inconsistencies (the dish appeared also as bibimbab) what Bi-Bim-Bab is and how to eat/prepare it.

Yes, I was supposed to prepare it by myself.

The approach was remarkable, and soon I found myself mixing the ingredients as per the instructions. A Korean woman sitting next to me was obviously amused by my careful study of the instructions and labels on the packed ingredients.

BI-BIM-BAB

The largest bowl on the tray included several vegetables (sprouts, cucumbers, sweet pepper, mushrooms and others) and minced meat (it was mentioned that octopus and wild-greens variations of the dish also exist). The first step was to pour over the veggies the smaller bowl with steamed rice; the last was a bit too sticky, but acceptably so for such a dish.

Following, the gochujang (a thick red chili paste popular in the Korean cuisine) and the sesame oil were added. At first I was wary of the chili paste, but later I found it to be relatively mild. Then, the stainless steel fork and spoon were used for mixing up all the ingredients; unlike in other Asian cultures, stainless steel is the standard for Korean cutlery. The clear soup next to the dish was to be enjoyed together with it. Kimchi – the ubiquitous pickles of the Korean cuisine – completed the dish, though in a too small serving.

Other side dishes included two excellent egg rolls, hard-boiled burdock and peanut, and steamed pumpkin. Overall, the result was excellent; the dish was rich and tasty, and displayed a remarkable mixture of textures and shapes. Moreover, it offered a true gate to the local culture; something it is seldom achievable during an in-flight meal.

Last and Least

The coffee and fruits became a secondary feature of the meal, but not an irrelevant one. A nice touch was that the coffee was guaranteed to be produced eco-friendly methods; it was a cup of decent quality for a flight, decent enough for asking a refill.

The fruits served in flight are usually a weak point, which is understandable due to the conditions of a long flight. A peeled wedge of mandarin sitting next to small pieces of a green apple provided the first surprise; the second was a dried prune, which despite not being a fresh fruit added another nice touch to a meal that turned to be a good example that in-flight meals can be imaginative and provide a meaningful experience.