Magical Maya Mystery

Apart from the magnificent central plaza, with its 2 pyramid-shaped temples, Tikal has several other interesting sights. One of the nicest complexes is the group of buildings known as the Lost World (Spanish: Mundo Perdido), located to the southwest of the plaza. The structures in the Lost World are among the oldest of Tikal, many of them still dating from the preclassic Maya period (around 0AD). Archaeologists have determined it as an E-group, a designation for complexes used by the ancient Mayas as centres for astronomical observation, named after the famous Grupo E in Tikal's rival and neighbour Uaxactun. The Maya peoples were great astronomers, and were able to estimate the movements of sun, moon and even the planet Venus which are incredibly near to measurements done with sophisticated instruments only in the 20the century. The most interesting structure here is definitely cryptically named structure 5C-54, a.k.a. the Lost World Pyramid, a 30m high pyramid, completed around 300AD after previous structures were raised several times. The pyramid is also adorned with several carved stone masks.

Just north of the Mundo Perdido lies the first one of Tikal's tallest pyramids, Templo III. This 55m high structure is the most recent one, only added to Tikal around 850AD, during its brief resurrection period. The temple façade is nowadays completely covered with plants, moss and even trees, except for the huge "roof comb", a massive stone carving that sits on top of the temple roof. The roof comb can only be seen from the top of one of the other temples, and not from below. Due to its state of disrepair, Templo III is currently closed for visitors. At the end of the Tozzer causeway, a raised road running west from the central plaza and passing temple three, is the tallest structure of Tikal at 70m height and the second tallest building of the ancient Americas, only surpassed by the La Danta temple in El Mirador. Although the pyramid-shaped temple IV remains unrestored and covered in moss and plants, except for its wide roof comb, a set of wooden stairs attached to the temple face make it possible to climb it. However, Tikal's oppressive heat makes it a hard and strenuous walk, but rewarded by excellent panoramas on the sea of tall trees, interrupted only by the tallest of Tikal's great structures, including most of the pyramid-temples.

Just south of the Grand Plaza and east of the Lost World is Tikal's second tallest temple, Templo V, nowadays extensively and nicely restored, making it one of the most impressive sights of Tikal. The breathtaking stone steps lead to the place of worship, topped with an incredibly large roof comb. If you look up from the base of the steps it is incredible that people used to climb them. The stone staircase is now closed, however there is still a way up. A 50m long wooden ladder, with a few short stopovers and hand rails, has been attached to the pyramid's face. The ladder is positioned almost vertically, making it an incredibly difficult climb, much harder than Templo IV! The whole time on the ladder I was asking myself why I was doing this, but when I finally reached the top, I was awarded with the greatest panorama I could ever imagine. Because of its proximity to the Lost World and to Templo I and II, the view on the old buildings is much greater than from Templo IV. From here the Mendez causeway is heading eastwards towards the entrance gates, but if you follow it completely for 2km, beyond the entrance, you will see the last great temple of Tikal: Templo VI. The design is similar to number 5, but it is much smaller, but also older, dating from around 400AD. It can be climbed, but the view is not that great, only trees and trees as far as you can see.

The Central Plaza (Spanish: Plaza Mayor) used to be the religious centre of the ancient Maya town of Tikal. The plaza itself is nowadays a grassy plain, only about 100m tall by 50m wide, dotted with a few tropical trees. On the northern end of the square are quite some interesting stelae, large standing stones decorated with carvings depicting scenes of historical or religious persons. The nicest ones are now covered with a thatched roof to preserve them form the elements. Behind the stelae is the Northern Acropolis of Tikal. It used to be the burial ground of many of the rulers of Tikal. Archaeological findings make it very probable that this place was also the location of the first settlement in Tikal. Several layers have been added year after year, so the current buildings, of which the oldest may be 2000 years old, are now located on top of an artificial terrace. The burial complex was a sacred place during Tikal's heydays, evident in the beautiful stone carvings that adorn great temples. Several religious items, like stone masks and statuettes were found here and are now on display in one of Tikal's museums and beyond.

Contrasting with this place of worship is the Central Acropolis, in the south of the plaza. It contains the residential buildings of the royal families and their surroundings. No religious buildings here, but a maze of corridors, courtyards, stairs and rooms, including bathrooms and kitchens. The whole complex stretches far over 1 hectare. It also contains one of Tikal's many ball courts, where teams were competing against each other in the Central-American ball game, an ancient predecessor of present-day games like basketball or volleyball. Archaeologists have found in this spot daily tools and luxuries, like pots, vessels and combs.

On the eastern and western side of the great plaza facing each other are two of the greatest structures in Tikal, Templo I and Templo II (templo is of course the Spanish word for temple). The most famous, the largest and oldest of them is Templo I or the Temple of the Great Jaguar. This temple is possibly THE most depicted sight of Tikal, decorating nearly all publications on the great world heritage site. The 44m high Mesoamerican-style stepped pyramid probably dates from around 700AD, but the first structure built in this place is much older. Like most temples in Tikal, the base of a structure was kept, but over the years ornaments were added on top of a previous version, culminating in extremely steep buildings. One of Tikal's greatest rulers, Jasaw Chan K'awiil I, aka Ruler A, laid buried inside the temple, but it is unknown if the temple was specifically designed to function as his grave. He is the ruler who gave the final blow to rival city Calakmul, putting Tikal back on the history map. The pyramid is topped with a religious building, only to be entered by insiders. On top of it is a so-called roof comb, to make the temple look higher. Pigments found on the temple suggest that during Maya times its façade was bright red in colour. Across the square is the similar looking Templo II, also called the temple of the masks as its stone carvings are more prominent as on Templo I. It's slightly smaller and more recent than the other one, but contrary to its larger neighbour, this one can be climbed. Don't worry, you don't have to climb its steep staircase. Nowadays a wooden staircase makes it much easier to climb the temple. From the top you have an excellent view on Templo I and the plaza.

Probably around 10.000 years ago, the Petén region was first settled by peoples originating from Asia who came to the Americas either by small boats or across the former landbridge between Siberia and Alaska. Only small villages were formed in the first place, but around 2000 BC the first city-states came into existence mainly in present-day southern Mexico (Olmec people), but also Nakbe near Tikal (Maya people). One millennium later, the Olmec culture went into decline, in favour of the Mayan states mostly in Petén. Among the most powerful of these times were El Mirador and Uaxactun, rivalling each other and smaller cities for power. The constant shift in power due to ongoing wars and disputes left room for smaller cities to rise in importance. By 1000 BC several other cities were established as regional power centres, including Calakmul, Palenque (Mexico), Copán (Honduras) and Tikal, who were usually created as an outpost of one of the big empires, but soon broke apart from the "mother nation". The rivalry between them and the great wealth mainly based on trading crops, raw material and tools, lead to large advancements in technology, military and architecture. By the start of the so-called classic period around 200 AD, the 'new' centres even surpassed the 'old' ones, culminating in a great victory around 400AD of Tikal over neighbouring Uaxactun, leading to the final decline of the latter. Most of Tikal's greatest temples were constructed during this golden period. Duirng the 6th century, Tikal experienced a "dark age", when it was heavily besieged mainly by Calakmul, who was at the top of its power. Only more than one century later the conflict turned in the advantage of Tikal, when its great ruler, Jasaw Chan Kaw'il finally defeated Calakmul. This meant a second smaller flourishing time for Tikal, but the ongoing conflicts in the Petén basin meant the bulk of Mayan power was shifted to places north of Calakmul (Uxmal, Cobá) and west of Tikal (Aguateca). By the end of the first millennium Tikal and the whole Petén suffered from heavy droughts, possibly created by overconsumption and over-usage of soils, leading to a final decline and the subsequent abandonment of the once so great cities.

By the time the Spaniards entered Guatemala in the 16th century from Mexico under the leadership of the cruelly efficient Pedro de Alvarado the remaining shattered kingdoms and nations were no match for the technically superior Europeans. Alvarado used the proven technique of divide and conquer in a splendid way, by forging strategic alliances with the local Cakchiquel tribe to overpower other nations, only to break the existing treaties and subdue their former allies later on. The only nation that Alvaro was not able to conquer was the Itzá Maya nation, with its capital Tayasal located on the island of Flores. It would take until 1697 when the island was finally captured by a large combined Spanish-Maya army. During these Spanish times in Guatemala the Petén ruins became so embedded in the surrounding jungle that they seemed lost forever. Although never lost in the memories of the local Mayas, it would take until 1850 before the ruins of Tikal were re-discovered and even until now the Petén rainforest is probably still containing not yet known sites.

The small capital city of Guatemala's most northern and largest department of Petén is the most important gateway to the vast Tikal ruins. Flores proper is located on a 0.2 km2 small island in Lake Petén Itzá, the 2nd lake largest in Guatemala. It is connected by a 500m long causeway to the larger and more commercial mainland town of Santa Elena, now also considered as a part of Flores. The island is an easy-going and quiet place, with most of the colonial houses in its small cobbled streets selling either souvenirs, tours, food, a place to stay or all together. A whitewashed 19th century church completes the picture. The dusty and scruffy Santa Elena suburb is best avoided, unless you want to change money or take public transportation.

Mainly due to the presence of tourist magnet Tikal and not because of the town's size or its remote location, it will come as no surprise that Flores is served by many modes of transportation. By far the easiest but probably the most expensive one is flying. TACA has a few flights a day (1 hour, around 100US$ one way) to Guatemala City, which even allows a long day trip to Tikal, and seasonal flights to Cancún (Mexico) and Belize City. The airport is located a few km from Santa Elena and a taxi ride to Flores should only cost a few dollars. Coming from Guate City, ADN has an 8-hour first-class direct bus service to Flores for around 20US$ a few times a day, including overnight trips. Linea Dorada and Fuente del Norte offer much slower second-class busses for about half the price, which are OK if you are planning to break your journey e.g. in Rio Dulce or Poptún. The more beautiful inland route towards Guatemala City may seem shorter in distance, but requires a lengthy journey including a ferry ride in Sayaxché and a bus change in Cobán, so this should only be attempted by people with some time left. For Belize City, Linea Dorada offers a direct first-class service (around 20US$), while with the other companies you will have to change at the border. Third-class ("chicken") buses extend the service, but these discarded US school buses are extremely slow, dusty and uncomfortable so they should only be used for short distances. Public transportation to Tikal exists solely out of minivans chartered by any of the travel agencies in Flores. Expect to pay around 5-10US$ (unless you are a local). The agencies also offer minivan services throughout the country and to Belize for a price between first and second class buses, but they usually come to pick you up at your hotel.

In case you came with public transport, the agents will usually gather around the place where you stop. They usually bring you to the accommodation of your charge for free or for only a small fee, in order to convince you to use their company to go to Tikal. However, don't feel obliged to do so. The small island of Flores houses quite a large number of places to stay and eat. The official Guatemalan tourist office website has a good overview. A few recommendations: Mirador del Lago has decent and clean doubles for around US$ 10, while Los Amigos offers a cheap dorm bed for people on a tight budget.

Despite its location, tucked away deep in the lowland jungle of the Guatemalan department of El Petén, the magnificent Maya site of Tikal attracts its fair share of tourists. After all, the Tikal ruins are probably the greatest Maya buildings in the whole of Guatemala, maybe even in the world. Unesco-listed already since 1979, the ancient town provides a great insight in daily Mayan matters as well as on religious and cultural affairs of this great nation. Nowadays the ruins are part of the 576 km2 large Tikal National Park, trying to preserve both the historical and natural treasures of the region. Established in 1955, it's about the only conservation area in Guatemala that escaped the human threats of deforestation, thanks to a huge support of its national park status by each subsequent government, no matter how corrupt or brutal they were. The park is incorporated in the 30 times larger Maya Biosphere Reserve, covering the whole north of the country and established in 1990, in a worthy attempt to combat illegal logging there.

All visitors are required to go to the Tikal Visitor Centre, right in the centre of the national park and just east of the main ruin area. You are to buy your ticket here (150 Quetzals, around 20US$). When you arrive after 4PM, you also receive a ticket for the next day, a great way to see Tikal at different times. Apart from a relief map of the ruins, there is also a quite pricy restaurant, some gift shops and even a post office in the visitor centre. Nearby are a few cheaper eateries ("comedores"), two museums (the Tikal museum is free), a few expensive but good hotels, like the Jungle Lodge charging around US$100 for a double, and even a campsite (only 30Q per person).

Apart from the extensive cultural heritage, which I will discuss in other reviews extensively, the park also contains rich natural treasures. Located in the lowland tropical rainforests of the Petén Basin, its climate is hot and humid all year round, but during the wet season (June-November) precipitation rises sharply. Many parts of the rainforest are impenetrable but a few dirt roads and trekking routes are available. Should you want to spend some time in the rainforest, the travel agents in Flores and Santa Elena offer specialised tours. There are great rainforest treks to one of the numerous Maya sites still hidden deep into the El Petén departement, like nearby Uaxactun and El Zotz or the great El Mirador site close to the Mexican border. But even if you don't participate, the ancient site of Tikal offers already great opportunities to discover the forests. A few temples towering over the sea of trees are climbable, which offers excellent bird's eye views on the lush green rainforest. Several of the ruins are overgrown with indigenous flowers, trees and plants. Several of the forest's wildlife, including howler monkeys, coatis, toucans and Guatemala's national bird, the Quetzal, are regular visitors to the ancient site and can be spotted, most likely during dusk and dawn, but also during the day. Larger mammals like the ocelot or the jaguar normally hide deep in the rainforest.