Dharma Drama: Visa Run Karma

September 2006: On the Plane from Taiwan to Bangkok

I was watching the advancing line slowly attempting to connect Taiwan with Bangkok on the small screen in front of me. Suddenly, the channel was automatically changed to the BBC, where a "Breaking News" red bar highlighted the screen: a coup d'état had replaced Thaksin Shinawatra's government in Thailand with yet another military junta. Shortly after, I saw for the first time tanks on Bangkok's streets.

September 2008: After Visiting the Royal Throne

Having collected the data I needed for a journal, I began walking back from the Royal Throne to Khaosan Road, when I found the main avenue blocked. A policeman was the gatekeeper; he let me enter into the crowd, without indicating if there was any danger.

The people there were agitated, some where in improvised tents by the edge of the area. The dominant color was yellow; I couldn't recognize the logo of four interlocked arms displayed everywhere. A poster shown everywhere commented about a chef and a cook.

Advancing through the crowd, I reached a huge stage. I walked around it and faced a big sign on its back proclaiming:

"The Most Wanted Man in Thailand"

Below it was a picture of Thaksin Shinawatra - the former prime minister - and his wife. Hours later, I learned a state of emergency had been proclaimed in Bangkok. At least one person have died in the riots next to the Government House, where I have seen the poster.

Turning Wheel

In a typical episode of Thai politics, I had witnessed a full turn of the wheel. After the 2006 coup, democracy returned and Samak Sundaravej became prime minister. Regarded by many as a proxy of Thaksin Shinawatra, he became the target of the protests after Thaksin became a fugitive by failing to appear at the court where he was charged - among other things - for tax evasions (Tax-Sin?).

Protests weren't all. In the deadlocked Thai political map, Samak Sundaravej opponents chose to attack him on a minor issue. For years, he had a television program called "Eating, Complaining" in which he cooked while complaining at the current political situation. After being elected, he appeared four additional times in the program and was paid for that. As a prime minister he was forbidden of doing so; charges were filled against him.

While waiting for the decision in his case by the Constitutional Court, I was forced to renew my visa and left a dramatized Bangkok to find its fate. Just before reaching a coffee shop for a last cappuccino, I learned the court had disqualified the prime minister and he was forced to leave office. The pad-Thai went sour.

Parallel Wheel

Shorter wheels are experienced by travelers in Thailand. For those eligible for a Thai 30-days visa-on-arrival, there is a possibility to get another thirty days stamp by crossing to a neighbor country and returning; as of 2008, this can be done twice in a row, offering a de facto ninety days visa to Thailand. Thus, a long stay in Thailand is inevitably accompanied by frequent trips to remote border towns; I reviewed one in Kawthaung: Knee Deep in Chai.

Dharma Drama: Visa Run Karma

Under the circumstances, the name of this journal was expectable. Dharma Drama seems to be a good description of the Thai politics in the last generations, while using Hindu terms which are so common in Thai. The drama is constant and the reality turns round and round in a vicious circle, as if it was a matter of fate. Visa Run Karma is an allusion to that repetitive action of long time travelers in Thailand. Both events are somewhat parallel in nature, and this week their high-points coincided in my life.

3'Or

Thammasat University is along the Chao Phraya riverside, and between Khaosan Road and the Grand Palace. Expectedly, it features a large range of students' cafeterias together with a pleasantly local environment; suddenly, Khaosan Road international features seem far away.

At the university's northern entrance is a small coffee shop called 3'Or. A decent cappuccino matches in quality those in Khaosan Road and is sold at about half price, 25 baht; basic pastries and sweets are also sold, but the slices of garlic bread next to them hinted me to decline the offer. A few coaches inside and stone benches by the entrance provide the perfect place for enjoying the coffee, despite the river not being visible from this angle.

A few minutes later, the coffee provided that extra-stamina needed for beginning the journey to the Western End of Thailand.

Mo Chit

Mo Chit is Bangkok's northern bus terminal; it serves destinations in the north, northeast and parts of Thailand's eastern coast. It is located away from the Skytrain and Metro stations of the same name, but can be approached with bus number three from near Khaosan Road and taxis.

The terminal is divided into three zones. One serves buses traveling within Bangkok, another is the arrival area and the third is the departures zone. The last is served a four-story building. At the entrance level, tickets are sold to northern destinations, while the third one serves the northeast. Both host also waiting areas, restaurants (including fast food as KFC and Mr Donut) and basic Thai food plazas.

As I recently commented, Mo Chit looks nowadays as under foreign occupation, with cameras crisscrossing the waiting areas and access gates; policemen, soldiers and plainclothes policemen swarm the place. One of the last approached me and for unclear reasons told me in decent English: "Please be nice to us," he left immediately without explaining. It was one of the finest samples of institutional Thairror I have seen in the current trip. There you go, I am being nice.

Highway

Despite everything, traveling northwards in Thailand is enjoyable. The exit from Bangkok is through an elevated highway, which allows great views of the surrounding city, including of Don Muang, the former international airport, which has now be turned partially into an aviation museum.

After Ayutthaya the metropolitan area ends and the wide highway (in Asian terms, 3 lanes on each direction) is split by up to 3 rows of lush trees; electric green paddy fields complete the landscape. The excellent milestones - featuring the Thai garuda - allow keeping track of the distance traveled and to the destination. The garuda is Thailand's coat of arms; of Hindu origins, it has a man's body, wings, an eagle's beak and talons.

From time to time U-turn ramps appear, sometimes placed back to back. They are quite representative of Thai highways, in which each direction is often completely separated from the other; thus making a normal U-turn is not possible. I haven't seen similar ones in other Asian countries.

On Thainess

After a few hours we arrived at Tak. However, instead of reaching the bus terminal (which is across the highway from the city) the bus entered the city. Strangely it began scattering the travelers at odd places. A policeman was dropped at the police station; before leaving, he saluted me in a military fashion and said "hello!" As always in potentially embarrassing situations, I said nothing and nodded politely. Other people were left at other corners of the small town.

I assumed the final stop would be the terminal, thus I didn't worry. However, the bus entered an alley and stopped there. The driver began to work on the engine. Approaching the conductor, I asked her where the terminal is. Agitated, she began speaking with the driver in Thai. They have lost face by forgetting me.

Not wanting to make a scene - especially in a small place I know relatively well - I began walking toward the main road. Despite not knowing the exact location of the alley, reaching the terminal could not be difficult. As soon as I began walking, the conductor stopped talking and run toward me. She said a lot, but the only thing I understood was "tuk-tuk." "Dee," (good) I said, making a few quick assumptions. She signaled a woman nearby to approach us. The situation was explained to her and she hurried away in her motorbike. Soon, a motorized samlor (tricycle, hardly seen anymore in Thailand) appeared. She spoke with the driver and insisted in paying the fee; her face was saved.

A Night at the Terminal

Minutes later I reached the terminal. It was already dark and soon it became clear the last bus to the border had already left. "There is a bus at 3 AM," I was told by somebody. The claim was credible; direct night buses from Bangkok reach Mae Sot early in the morning and pass through Tak. I surveyed the area; a few restaurants and a tiny hotel surrounded the terminal building. If returning to Tak I probably wouldn't be able to return on time, thus I stayed.

Pud See Ew

Entering one of the restaurants, I picked up a menu and read "pud see ew." In English (where the vowel sounds are not constant, and actually depend on the syllable) the name made not sense. The Thai writing read "pad;" expecting now to get some kind of noodles (like the popular pad-Thai), I ordered the dish. I got a large serving (that's an advantage of rural Thailand) of tasty wide rice noodles with fried vegetables and pork meat.

The Hotel

A small counter blocked a shabby door. A sign on the adjacent wall contained a long message in Thai; I read just the price: "50 baht" (about $1.5).

"How much does the room cost?" I asked.

"How long are you planning to stay?" was the strange answer.

"Why do you care?" I kept the string of questions going on.

"You pay by the hour, first two hours cost 50 baht, afterwards it costs 10 baht per hour."

Despite the arrangement, there wasn't any suspicious activity in the area. Apparently it was just a reasonable arrangement in a bus terminal.

"Wake me up at three, please," I said while paying.

Then I was led to one of four cardboard boxes arranged in a row along a narrow corridor. Soon I was asleep.

Awakening

A hurried knock on the door was followed by:

"Sorry, it is 4 AM."

I left the hotel, and approached the terminal building. Having missed the night bus, I had two more hours to wait.

Leaving the Plains

Minivans span in about ninety minutes the distance between Tak and Mae Sot, the Thai town on the border with Myanmar.

Soon after leaving the town, the plains were left behind; the road entered a lush hilly landscape half hidden in the morning mist. Unlike air-conditioned buses, opening the windows was possible and added a very enjoyable dimension to the trip. However, not everything was pleasant; three roadblocks were along the way, two of the police, and one of the army. The police checked documents, the army scanned the vehicle with an unclear device. The driver got a paper stamped; I took note of everything. Finally, the van left us by the old bus terminal in Mae Sot, a few blocks away from downtown.

Reaching the Border

Attempting to end the affair as fast as possible I approached the road from where taxi-trucks leave to the border. After about thirty minutes I have seen none and people failed to give good advice. Finally, I hired a motorbike and reached the border, which is a few kilometers westwards on the Moei River. Later, while exploring the town in my way back, I learned the trucks depart now from the central market.

But now, it was Burmese time.

One Day Earlier: Bangkok

Aware of Burmese peculiarities, I entered the main branch of one of the main banks in the country.

"I want to exchange money," I told the clerk approaching me. She directed me to an available desk.

"I want to buy a new note of ten dollars for the immigration fee," I elaborated.

"How much?"

"Ten dollars."

"Do you have your passport?"

"No."

She left the desk and formed an ad hoc committee with her superior; after considering the issue she returned.

"It's OK, please fill this form," she said while giving me a form in four copies.

While filling it, I managed to learn the man next to me was attempting to transfer $50000 to his Thai account. Moments later she brought me a brand new ten dollars note and actually bowed while giving it to me with her both hands. Carefully, I put it within a book, so that it would not get any folds or marks. It felt as a million dollar transaction.

On the Burmese Border

At the west end of the bridge over the River Moei was the Burmese immigration. An officer spotted me, approached me and invited me in.

"You go through the fast lane," he said, while we entered the booth.

Outside a long line of Burmese and Thais waited for their turn. Inside, he insisted I'll sit, while he didn't.

"Do you want to visit Myawaddy or is this a visa run?" he asked.

From previous visits I knew staying overnight is not possible in Myawaddy. Signs posted in near the booth stated the same. Always careful while dealing with the Burmese, I said it was just a visa run. He chose the appropriate stamps and placed the entry and exit stamps at the same moment.

"It's 500 baht," (just above $15) he said.

"I have a ten dollars note," I said lamely.

"Dollars are not good anymore," he summarized his view of the global financial situation.

I paid, left there my passport and entered Myawaddy.

Knee Deep in Chai

After leaving the booth I entered the town and found myself under a torrential rain. Walking in the mud and trying to avoid the puddles seem to be my fate while in Myanmar; nearby, vendors were moving their merchandise back into their shops or holding big umbrellas over their belongings. These type of showers is generally short; waiting within a teahouse is the best strategy.

In any case, there is no reason to rush in Myawaddy. The town is small, crossing it at a slow pace takes less than thirty minutes; at the sides of the main road it quickly deteriorates into a mishmash of small, stilted huts built upon small ponds. Infrastructure practically does not exist beyond that main road.

"To the market, to the market," riksha drivers advertised themselves near the bridge. That was funny since all the main road was one long market, I didn't wait to find out what they were talking about and crossed the town, making a few detours into side markets connected to the axial street.

Those were of the typical Asian square market, where a plethora of shops and stalls are crowded within a rectangular, roofed structure. The merchandise offered there included fresh products and a variety of fruits wider than in Thailand. Grapes were substantially cheaper than across the border; apparently they were grown locally. Unknown spices, housewares, rice, noodles, unidentified food and frogs were among the other products offered. Missing were the expected knickknacks and souvenirs for tourists; most travelers arrive here just for the entry and exit stamps and do not bother to visit the town.

Burmese cheroots fouled the air. People were friendly and actually asked me to take pictures of them, though riksha drivers were an annoyance and seemed to be following me. "To the market, to the market," they kept saying to me, while I stood amidst the stalls. The ground was covered with what seemed like blood stains; from time to time somebody would spit out a new one and would disclose in such a way to be chewing betel.

The provincial ambience was not limited to the market. Several hotels were along the main road; I entered the biggest one and the staff was obviously surprised. They didn't speak English and despite the signs, I couldn't get a coffee.

Yet, Myawaddy is the main commercial border cross between Thailand and Myanmar, the town features many signs of a humble prosperity that is not seen in another cross points. Money exchangers - displaying huge bricks of kyat (the Burmese money) - are one sign of that activity; internet kiosks and computer shops are another.

Pagodas are ubiquitous in Myanmar; Myawaddy is not different. A big temple near the town center displays an impressive golden stupa and pagodas with layers of the typical rectangular-like umbrellas around a central tower. Monks in purple walked the streets, a line of people in blue with a gong were performing an unknown ceremony.

A gate to a side street near the west end of the town displayed a globe with Myanmar highlighted and reminded me it was time to cross back into Thailand. "To the market," a riksha driver shouted at me when I reached back the bridge.

Back in Mae Sot, I decided to spend a couple of hour here and then to leave toward Tak; having been here in the past, it was pointless to stay; but it is always interesting to see how a place evolves along time.

The Western End

Eighty-six kilometers west and uphill from Tak, Mae Sot sits next to the River Moei, the border between Thailand and Myanmar. This is one of the few towns in Thailand that is larger than its provincial capital, Tak in this case. With around forty thousand inhabitants, it is roughly twice the size of Tak, this is the result of its strategical location at the western end of Thailand, where it serves as the main trading point with Myanmar.

Thailand - Myanmar Friendship Bridge

420 meters long and 13 wide, the bridge was built entirely by Thailand and features an unusual characteristic. In Thailand, cars drive at the left side, while in Myanmar they use the right side; as a result, after a special point marked with traffic lights, the cars change road sides. The Thai immigration is on its eastern end, while the Burmese is on its western end. The pass is open daily between 6 AM and 6 PM.

The Moei River

The narrow and shallow Moei River is the borderline between Myanmar and Thailand; it is 327 kilometers long and unlike most rivers in Thailand, it flows northwards. Its watershed is in Ban Mokoe and it flows to Mae Hong Son through Mae Sot, Mae Ramat and Tha Song Yang. Merging afterwards with the Salween River in Myanmar, it reaches the Gulf of Martaban.

Rim Moei Market

Located about ten kilometers west of Mae Sot and immediately north of the bridge, the Rim Moei Market specializes on products like dried bamboo shoots, dried fish, Hua Yung sea fish, shiitake mushrooms, beans, leatherware, satin, and gemstones - especially rubies. Myanmar is a major provider of colored stones, while Thailand is a major trading center for them.

Around the market, a small neighborhood is emerging; a sign proclaims it as Moei River City, though it formally belongs to Mae Sot. However, it doesn't have hotels or proper restaurants; returning to downtown after the visa run is recommended.

Traveling Around

The new bus terminal of Mae Sot is located between the bridge and the town, however it does not serve all the destinations Buses to Umphang leave from downtown from a station south of Pasatwitee Road, while buses to Sukhothai and Phitsanulok leave from a nearby station two blocks to the west. Buses to Tak and Mae Sariang leave from the old station, just north of the river splitting the town. I must emphasize the river is little more than a stream; it may be confused with an open aqueduct.

The Rim Moei Market and the bridge can be reached with frequent truck-taxis departing from the central market in Mae Sot.

The Town

The town displays three main landmarks; two south of the river and one north. The Shrine of King Naresuarn the Great is the odd one, the others are typical Thai wats; Wat Manee Praisohn delimits the downtown area to the west, while Wat Chumphon Kin does that on the east. Both wats are near the river.

Mae Sot features two very distinct parts. Near the old bus terminal and the police station is a very Westernized area catering for the travelers reaching the town.With the exception of 7 Eleven, international chains have not arrived here yet, but a lot of local establishment offer upmarket options. Several expats run coffee shops and restaurants. In addition there is a wide variety of hotels and guesthouses. However, their quality does not justify staying overnight in town.

The other part of town displays an interesting mixture of Burmese and Muslim features; the Thais are an obvious minority here. Halal food rules here and offers a refreshing change; it is less spicy than the Thai and features chickpeas, potatoes and types of meat absent in Thai dishes. Also is safer than Thai food, the chances of getting an upset stomach after eating it are nil.

Burmese men and women can be distinguished by their makeup, which is prepared with ground thanaka bark and is put on the face so that it creates attractive white patterns; those are almost personal in nature, many of them feature circular themes. Moreover, Burmese wear a distinctive garment called longyi. This is a sarong dress worn by both men and women; men make a prominent knot on its front, while women wrap it around themselves. The last distinctive feature are the cheroots, cigars with both ends clipped during its manufacture, thus they are inexpensive and popular. The Muslim population is less conspicuous, though the women are clearly identified by their modest dresses and head covers.

Visa runs are usually a linear affair. I had visited in the past Mae Sariang and was not inclined to return and make a whole loop in northern Thailand through Mae Hong Son and Chiang Mai. Thus returning to Tak after I got my visa extension was inevitable. I used the opportunity to get better acquainted with this beautiful rural town.

Tak Talk

Tak is a province in the lower north of Thailand. In the past it was known as "Mueang Raheng" and was originally home to Mon people. The province features several national parks and is heavily forested even with pines, which are an odd sight in tropical Thailand. It is also known for its flowers and fruits, especially the "Thapthim," pomegranate.

Its capital has the same name of the province and is on the eastern bank of the Ping River, King Rama II had it moved there from the western bank in order to provide it with a natural defense line against the Burmese.

Reaching Tak

Located on the main south to north route, reaching Tak is easy. From Tel Aviv take Highway 1 and then Highway 32 - as the Asian Highway stretch in Thailand is called. The 426 kilometers long way can be done in five hours. Buses to Tak leave from Bangkok's Mo Chit terminal daily between 5:30 Am and 10 PM. The nearest airport is in Phitsanulok.

The Town

Tak is tiny, but since the buildings are placed at decent distances from each other, a false feeling of grandeur is imparted on the visitor. Most of the town is contained between the highway and the Ping River, though two main wats (Wat Phra Narai and Wat Doikoi Khao Keaw) and the San Si Maharat (the city pillar) are placed on the western side of the river; three bridges connect both areas.

The pillar is located near the west end of the Kittikhachon Bridge - the southernmost spanning the Ping River in Tak. Thai cities always include a pillar - a symbolic representation of a linga - which is considered to host the city’s guardian spirit or deity. As such, these places are located in the vicinity of – or within - larger temples and are an official center of worship for the city’s welfare, though usually they are the preferred temples for fertility rites as well. Tak predates Thai times, thus this temple does not date to the city's foundation, it was established in 1992 and commemorates four Thai kings that crossed the town with their armies.

The main feature of downtown Tak are six ponds, which add a refreshing touch to the town; though they are beautiful, they are not designed for water sports and offer only an aesthetic value.

King Taksin the Great Shrine is located on Charotwithithong (also spelled Jodvitheetong) Road, on the main access road to downtown from the highway. Originally it was on the opposite bank of the river - the original location of Tak - but in 1947 it was transfered and given a place of honor. The shrine features an oversized statue of king Taksin the Great in a sitting position with a sword across his lap. People pay homage to him here.

Despite the tiny size of the downtown area, it hosts fourteen additional wats to those across the river. The most distinctive wat is Wat Bot Mani Si Bunrueang; it is located on Taksin Road, near the junction with Charotwithithong Road and thus it can be easily combined with a visit to the King Taksin the Great Shrine. It was built in 1858 and renovated in 1990, and features an awesome Mon pagoda in sparkling white with an umbrella shaped top, supposedly keeping Buddha relics. The Ubosot (Ordination Hall) features mural paintings, while the Wihan houses the main Buddha image in the temple, called Luangpho Phuttamon; it dates back to the fourteenth century.

Another place of special interest is Trok Ban Chin (The Chin Village Alley). Located on Taksin Road near Wat Sitalaram (on the southern part of downtown), this was a commercial area in the past; nowadays it offers traditional teakwood houses. Due to the ban on teak logging, these are quickly disappearing.

The Ping riverside could be beautiful, but it is underdeveloped. A wide promenade exists along it, but most of the town businesses and restaurants are placed elsewhere, thus enjoying a sunset there is difficult. The river is wide and shallow and surrounded by a lush greenery, the prominent central bridge (the Tattanakosin Bicentennial Bridge) provide a beautiful focal point to the area. I hope in my next visit, I'll see at least one coffee shop by the promenade.