Kawthaung: Knee Deep in Chai

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An August 2008 trip to Myanmar by SeenThat

Quote: Kawthaung is the southernmost border cross between Thailand and Myanmar, crossing the Kra River, I found myself knee-deep in chai.

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Burmese Chai

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Restaurant

Kawthaung - Chai Photo - Kawthaung, Myanmar

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Few beverages are more varied in their preparation, or more confused to the English speaking world than chai. Without repeating common errors, "chai" means just tea in most languages (it is derived from the Chinese "cha"); the spiced version originating in India should be called "masala chai" (literally "spiced tea"). In Myanmar, "chai" is black tea brewed with milk and not the Indian "chai-masala" popularly known in the West as "chai." Despite its origin, chai for me is the flavor and smell of Myanmar; regardless the part of the country I was visiting, it was ubiquitous and of a remarkably constant quality.

Preparation

Burmese chai is prepared by boiling black-tea leaves with water, milk and sugar for a long time; then, before it is served, condensed milk is usually added. The final result is a dark orange beverage as strong as coffee, which - due to the boiling - contains much more caffeine than regular tea. As a consequence, this is a morning drink; few establishments serve it after noon. Most shops prepare the drink in plain sight; seeing the process is an integral and enjoyable part of such a visit.

Samosa

Entangled with Burmese chai, is the samosa. This is a common Asian snack of triangular shape, fried and filled with potatoes, onion, peas, coriander, and spices; meaty versions exist as well. Simple teahouses serve just these two products and nothing else; others add Indian sweets and desserts.

The Teahouse

The teahouse I visited was of the hole-in-the-wall type; it was located near the port. Lacking any visible sign with a name, I decided to refer to it as "Burmese Chai;" in essence this name correctly describes the ubiquitous anonymity of these establishments. The inner walls were painted in a green color that for unimaginable reasons is popular over there; two tables completed the institution. The happily boiling chai kettle and the table with the samosas where outside the shop.

It was operated by a family that didn't speak any English. However, I entered and took a sit: "chai" and "samosa" were the passwords of the day. Despite my being the only customer, four persons operated the place. Clearly, they were not used to foreigners; as soon as I entered, they told their neighbors about the novelty and those came to see a farang drinking chai.

The chai arrived first; it was followed by four samosas. Why four? I don't know, probably because it was the amount that fit the plate. After tasting the first, eating the others was inevitable. They were rather small but were filled so much that they resembled balloons. Being of the vegetarian type, the vegetables inside did manage to keep their specific texture and flavors, offering thus a truly enjoyable experience.

Paying was tricky. I didn't have any kyat and the communication with the owner was difficult. Soon we agreed that six Thai baht for each item would be a fair price; though I knew local prices well enough to know I was being almost robbed. However, having paid less than a dollar for an excellent chai and four samosas I could not complain and gladly paid . Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on August 16, 2008

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Crossing the Lines: On Burmese and Thai Visas

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For those eligible for a Thai 30-days visa-on-arrival, there is a possibility to get another thirty days stamp by crossing to a neighbor country and returning; as of 2008, this can be done twice in a row, offering thus a de facto ninety days visa to Thailand.By far, Myanmar offers the handiest opportunity. I have reviewed its border crosses with Thailand in another journal; this entry is dedicated to Kawthaung, the most complex cross point.The Pro...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on August 15, 2008

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Rainy Ranong: Fish and Fruits

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Morning Market - Ranong Photo - Ranong, Thailand

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Regardless the season during my visits to Ranong, the weather was constant: grey and rainy, hot and humid. Just the perfect conditions for giving that special moldy look, a touch of classy grayish patina, to all exposed surfaces.Ranong's RationaleIn the traveler's universe, the main reason for visiting Ranong is the fact that from there it is possible to cross the border to Kawthaung in Myanmar, enabling thus to renew the Thai visa.What, When and WhereThe name "Ranong" is a Thai corruption of the name "Rundung," which was a Malay principality of the Kedah Malay Sultanate. It was annexed by Siam after repeated Thai invasions during the 17th ...Read More

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Knee-Deep in Chai

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Attraction

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Walking on ChaiA recurring sight in Myanmar - regardless the place I visited - was the half-paved streets, where light-brown puddles competed with goats in creating obstacles for the passersby and cars. Being in an exceptionally rainy area, while exploring Kawthaung I found myself almost knee-deep in chai colored puddles.Where is Kawthaung?The Union of Myanmar is divided into seven states (pyine) and seven divisions (yin). Tanintharyi Division covers the long narrow southern part of the country on the Kra Isthmus, bordering the Andaman Sea to the west and ...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on August 16, 2008

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The Burmese Human Landscape

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Burmese PeopleMyanmar is an ethnically diverse country, much more so than neighbor Thailand. More than a hundred ethnic groups and languages exist there; but Kawthaung is within the Tanintharyi Division and near the Mon State, thus, most of its population is Bamar with a significant Mon presence. Malays, Chinese and Indians are significant minorities and have an important role in the local commerce and industry. Understanding the basic groups present and their most visible customs would help to improve the quality of a visit to the place.Theravada Buddhism...Read More