Kawthaung: Knee Deep in Chai

Few beverages are more varied in their preparation, or more confused to the English speaking world than chai. Without repeating common errors, "chai" means just tea in most languages (it is derived from the Chinese "cha"); the spiced version originating in India should be called "masala chai" (literally "spiced tea"). In Myanmar, "chai" is black tea brewed with milk and not the Indian "chai-masala" popularly known in the West as "chai." Despite its origin, chai for me is the flavor and smell of Myanmar; regardless the part of the country I was visiting, it was ubiquitous and of a remarkably constant quality.

Preparation

Burmese chai is prepared by boiling black-tea leaves with water, milk and sugar for a long time; then, before it is served, condensed milk is usually added. The final result is a dark orange beverage as strong as coffee, which - due to the boiling - contains much more caffeine than regular tea. As a consequence, this is a morning drink; few establishments serve it after noon. Most shops prepare the drink in plain sight; seeing the process is an integral and enjoyable part of such a visit.

Samosa

Entangled with Burmese chai, is the samosa. This is a common Asian snack of triangular shape, fried and filled with potatoes, onion, peas, coriander, and spices; meaty versions exist as well. Simple teahouses serve just these two products and nothing else; others add Indian sweets and desserts.

The Teahouse

The teahouse I visited was of the hole-in-the-wall type; it was located near the port. Lacking any visible sign with a name, I decided to refer to it as "Burmese Chai;" in essence this name correctly describes the ubiquitous anonymity of these establishments. The inner walls were painted in a green color that for unimaginable reasons is popular over there; two tables completed the institution. The happily boiling chai kettle and the table with the samosas where outside the shop.

It was operated by a family that didn't speak any English. However, I entered and took a sit: "chai" and "samosa" were the passwords of the day. Despite my being the only customer, four persons operated the place. Clearly, they were not used to foreigners; as soon as I entered, they told their neighbors about the novelty and those came to see a farang drinking chai.

The chai arrived first; it was followed by four samosas. Why four? I don't know, probably because it was the amount that fit the plate. After tasting the first, eating the others was inevitable. They were rather small but were filled so much that they resembled balloons. Being of the vegetarian type, the vegetables inside did manage to keep their specific texture and flavors, offering thus a truly enjoyable experience.

Paying was tricky. I didn't have any kyat and the communication with the owner was difficult. Soon we agreed that six Thai baht for each item would be a fair price; though I knew local prices well enough to know I was being almost robbed. However, having paid less than a dollar for an excellent chai and four samosas I could not complain and gladly paid .

For those eligible for a Thai 30-days visa-on-arrival, there is a possibility to get another thirty days stamp by crossing to a neighbor country and returning; as of 2008, this can be done twice in a row, offering thus a de facto ninety days visa to Thailand.

By far, Myanmar offers the handiest opportunity. I have reviewed its border crosses with Thailand in another journal; this entry is dedicated to Kawthaung, the most complex cross point.

The Process

Checking Out

Kawthaung is accessed from Ranong in Southern Thailand. The wettest province in the country, rainy Ranong is located by the Andaman Sea, not far from the Kra Isthmus. At its fishing port (named Saphan Plah - "Bridge of Fish" in Thai) there is a Thai immigration booth, where the passport can be stamped out and the immigration chit returned.

Canoe

Once the formalities are over, it is time to negotiate the trip. The crossing is done with old boats resembling large canoes, which await for customers in a messy lump at the pier near the immigration.

One possibility is to reach Myanmar with a one-way boat. This is the best if planning to stay an indefinite period of time there, from where return boats can later be booked. The other option is to book a return trip, which includes a two-hours stay in Kawthaung; booking it only up to the Burmese immigration while avoiding Kawthaung is also possible.

A one-way trip should cost at least 200 baht (less than seven dollars), while a return trip plus a two hours stop at the town costs 500 baht. Cheaper options are available - especially from Myanmar - but are not recommended. Simply, during the trip the passenger has a non defined status; if something happens to him, both Thailand and Myanmar can afterwards claim the passenger disappeared beyond their borders. Thus it is better to overpay the boatman, so that he won't get second thoughts of unplanned detours.

Thai Customs

The most surprising part of this trip is the stop at the Thai customs base on an island. A few minutes after the departure, the boat approached a small island with a prominent Chinese temple on it; I thought it was done for my benefit, but below the temple was a military base. We approached the base, a soldier looked at the boat, and we left immediately.

In the way back we stopped there again. This time a soldier boarded the boat, asked me to open my luggage and touched every single item in my backpack. Despite skipping reading my books, my New Testament in Hebrew caught his attention.

The Trip

The trip lengths between thirty and forty-five minutes, depending on the weather and other delays. At this spot, the Kra River is wide, rather calm, and relatively clean of trash; however, swimming and drinking its water is not recommended.

Umbrellas were carried on the boats and supplied to the passengers whenever it began raining (every few minutes). Uncountable boats roamed the river at random directions; twice we bumped into other boats, once we dragged another boat until they succeeded to fix the engine.
Burmese Immigration

In front of Kawthoung town there is a small island; there, on the side facing Thailand, is a small structure built on stilts in the water, which hosts the Burmese immigration offices. It is possible to stamp the passport there and then to return immediately to Thailand. However, if willing to see Kawthoung, then that should be stated to the immigration officer there; he will take the passport details, but won't stamp it.

If doing so, the boat would then surround the island and approach the mainland. At the time of my visit, birds were hunting fish all over this narrow pass; they definitely ignored the surrounding human activities. Near the pier, the mainland Burmese immigration offices stamp the passport and keep it during the stay. That is done to enforce the prohibition to leave the town into Myanmar.

Photocopies

Touts approach the arriving travelers before they reach the immigration and offer help to get passport photocopies; these are not needed if not planning to stay overnight. If planning so, it is better to bring a few copies from Thailand.

Crispy Ten Dollars

The visa costs ten dollars, which should be paid with a crispy ten dollars note; if not having one, the visa would cost 500 Thai baht (around 15 dollars). Knowing that, I came prepared from the USA and had no problems.

However, I witnessed the most extraordinary event while processing my entry. Next to me was a traveler from my country that attempted to pay with an old-looking $50 note. It was refused and he began arguing with the officer.

"The note is legal, he must accept it," he attempted twice, in a very unfriendly tone, to involve me in the argument; I felt like he would attack me if I didn't help. The officer looked at me and signaled me to be quiet.

Actually the tourist was wrong; the Burmese only legal tender is the kyat (pronounced "chat") and not the American dollar.

Then, he showed us his wallet, thick with high denomination notes, and offered a different $50 note. It was refused.

"500 baht, please," the Burmese officer summarized the event.

"Change!," the tourist dryly said while handing over a 1000 baht note. The whole event looked now like a studied provocation. Even if the tourist did not read my early articles on the issue, he could not claim ignorance of the ten dollars crispy note requested by the Burmese. On the Thai riverside, touts and boatmen actively approach all travelers, offering them new ten dollars notes; they earn a few baht in the transaction. Moreover, his last action was a remarkable insult; he had showed his wallet, we knew he had lower denomination baht notes. He was repeating the $50 note event. Also, his attempt to drag me into the event was foolish.

The unamused officer signaled the guards outside the room to enter. Having finished my business there, I hurriedly left the area and entered Kawthoung. I stayed nearby the immigration for the next thirty minutes, but never saw the tourist leave the building.

Photograph

A recent innovation is the photograph taken by the Burmese; strangely enough, it is taken before leaving the country, when the passport is given back.

Regardless the season during my visits to Ranong, the weather was constant: grey and rainy, hot and humid. Just the perfect conditions for giving that special moldy look, a touch of classy grayish patina, to all exposed surfaces.

Ranong's Rationale

In the traveler's universe, the main reason for visiting Ranong is the fact that from there it is possible to cross the border to Kawthaung in Myanmar, enabling thus to renew the Thai visa.

What, When and Where

The name "Ranong" is a Thai corruption of the name "Rundung," which was a Malay principality of the Kedah Malay Sultanate. It was annexed by Siam after repeated Thai invasions during the 17th and 18th centuries.

Nowadays, the town of Ranong is the capital of the province of the same name in southern Thailand, at the shore of the Andaman Sea. It is located on the Kra Isthmus, which connects mainland Thailand with the Malay Peninsula, west of the Phuket mountain range. Across the Kra (or Kraburi) River is Kawthaung, a town in Myanmar.

Ranong is the less populated province in Thailand, featuring lush vegetation on a mountainous landscape, the highest rainfall in the country and little else. Mangrove forests cover much of the coast and have been declared a biosphere reserve.

Reaching Ranong

Reaching Ranong from Bangkok is not difficult, though it is getting harder. The problem is that the southern bus terminal has been recently moved further away into Thonburi - Bangkok's twin city across the Chao Praya River. Bus number four reaches it from the Victory Monument in Bangkok; the trip costs a staggering thirty baht, as compared to the regular seven baht bus fare; to that, the transport to the Victory Monument should be added. From the bus terminal regular and VIP buses are available during the day and night. The trip longs up to twelve hours.

Downtown Ranong

Surrounded by lush hills half hidden in eternal mist, the city is rural and lacks a definite downtown area. Instead, several tiny centers have developed around the main market, the port and the routes accessing neighbor towns; the Morning Market doubles as the transport hub of the town, trucks leave from there to all the main attractions in the surrounding area, including the Saphan Pla Port (literally "Bridge of Fish"), from where Myanmar is accessed. The ubiquitous 7 Eleven chain have arrived to the town, but no other franchises are present.

Due to its nearness to the border cross, Ranong features more hotels than its size justifies; however, most of them are of low quality or in bad shape. Planning a stay as short as possible is recommended.

Food

If arriving with a night bus from Bangkok, then the Morning Market would be the best stop until the immigration opens. Placed in the center of town, the market opens before sunrise, offering tasty breakfasts and a look into the local life.

The area is amazingly rich in fruits and cashews, but other interesting options for breakfast exist as well. Coffee and chai are available in many stalls; the usual fried buns are offered next to them, but nearby, one of the stalls specializes on roti - a traditional Indian fried bread resembling small pancakes - serving them fresh and unusually covered with condensed milk. As usual in Asian markets, it is acceptable to buy the roti at one stall while eating them at the coffee stall. The combination is delicious.

Other Attractions

Despite its humble size, Ranong provides several interesting sights. Next to the fountain, along the main road, is the old governor place, a long teakwood structure resembling an empty monastery. On the way leading to the port is the Stigmatines Catholic Church; the Thai-style church features a happy Christ, several big statues in the yard, and a school at its side. In front of it, over a low hill, is a big Buddhist temple, with a tower bell and the local crematorium. By the market is a small Chinese temple with a nice bird of paradise at the roof's corner and not far away a small mosque. This mix of cultures and religions is typical of Southern Thailand.

Three kilometers east of downtown are the thermal springs at Raksawarin Park, songtao (trucks) taxis reach them from downtown. There are three natural spring pools. The temperature of the water in its three natural pools is above 60°C.

Nam Tok Ngao is a waterfall located twelve kilometers south of downtown; the best way of reaching it is taking any southward bus from the highway.

Kho Khot Kra: Kra Isthmus

Just before arriving at Ranong, is the Kra Isthmus. This is the Malay Peninsula's narrowest point, where forty-four kilometers separate the Gulf of Thailand from the Andaman Sea. There are several viewpoint in the area.

Walking on Chai

A recurring sight in Myanmar - regardless the place I visited - was the half-paved streets, where light-brown puddles competed with goats in creating obstacles for the passersby and cars. Being in an exceptionally rainy area, while exploring Kawthaung I found myself almost knee-deep in chai colored puddles.

Where is Kawthaung?

The Union of Myanmar is divided into seven states (pyine) and seven divisions (yin). Tanintharyi Division covers the long narrow southern part of the country on the Kra Isthmus, bordering the Andaman Sea to the west and Thailand to the east. In the past, the area belonged to the Thai kingdoms of Sukhothai and Ayutthaya. After the fall of the last, it became a Burmese territory until those were colonized by the British. Lower Burma - which included the modern Tanintharyi Division - became in 1826 part of the territory controlled by the British East India company; this was the result of the Treaty of Yandaboo, signed at the end of the First Burmese War. Kawthaung was called then "Victoria Point," a name still in use; the town is at the southern tip of a peninsula, enjoying thus a superb location as a fishing and trading port.

Touts

Following the passport stamping rite, I left the immigration and entered the market area. Immediately, several touts approached and offered everything, from guided tours of the town to any other typical sweet-trap. "No, no!" I kept saying while vigorously moving forward. A few zigzags later I was alone. The jackals were watching from far away.

Temples

Even before landing, it was obvious Thailand was left behind: a typical Burmese Theravada Buddhism pagoda with rectangular, concentric, heavy layers forming a central tower was among my first sights of Kawthaung. After landing, many chedis, one mosque and one Chinese temple could also be seen, following a trend I found also in other places of the country to crowd the towns with shrines.

As in the other parts of Myanmar I visited, chedis could be seen occupying prominent points in the surrounding hills, they are not necessarily located near human settlements. I was told that many of those were built by rich people as redemptive acts for their sins; apparently, plenty of those were committed here.

Downtown Kawthaung

The town is built around the port's main pier and the lively market next to it. Beyond the first three streets running parallel to the riverfront, the town blends rapidly with the rainforest and the steep hills. Old trucks - apparently dating back to Soviet times and manufacturers - waited at the port or hurried away into the forest.

Most of the area surrounding the port is a mishmash of shops, coffee shops, hotels, warehouses and touts. The advertising signs in the town appear in Burmese, Thai and English; since each uses a different alphabet, a happy mix of letters welcomes the traveler. Despite that, few of the denizens spoke anything but Burmese, with the clear exception of the touts awaiting near the immigration. Since most of the merchandise sold there was brought across the river from Thailand there were no reasons to shop around (I had just arrived from there), thus the language barrier was not important.

A tiny Chinese temple was hidden within a hut near a warehouse; some type of ceremony was taking place inside and I could not visit it. People took merchandise into and from the market, while trying to avoid the puddles. The biggest surprise in this short tour was the presence of an internet kiosk, the first I have seen in Myanmar.

One of the first signs discernible while approaching the town from the river is the one belonging to the boxy Honey Bear Hotel, one of the largest structures on the riverfront. The hotel occupies an old building and provides very basic rooms for 800 baht per night.

Yangon Cafe

The name was irresistible. Moreover, the place was located near the immigration and thus was a comfortable stop; after my brave exploration of this unknown territory I had earned at least the right to a cup of good coffee. A counter with several products for sale blocked the entrance to a long and narrow inner space, where a few tables were empty. I sat in front of the only other customer, an old man placidly smoking a cheroot. The printed menu was in Burmese, but I didn't need it. "Ga-feh," I said to the woman approaching me, using the Thai word for coffee.

One of the reasons the name caught my attention was that until then I hadn't seen coffee in Myanmar; this was chai territory. That meant I couldn't expect too much; accordingly soon a small cup filled with hot water was placed in front of me, a package of "Coffee Mix" (a type of "3 in1" bag containing soluble coffee, sugar and powdered milk) and an additional milk powder sachet accompanied it. "I'll survive," I told myself, while deciding to risk it. Seconds later, I felt the vibrations of somebody approaching the table; before I could raise my eyes, he was already seated across the table and said to me:

"I have something good for you!"

Burmese People

Myanmar is an ethnically diverse country, much more so than neighbor Thailand. More than a hundred ethnic groups and languages exist there; but Kawthaung is within the Tanintharyi Division and near the Mon State, thus, most of its population is Bamar with a significant Mon presence. Malays, Chinese and Indians are significant minorities and have an important role in the local commerce and industry. Understanding the basic groups present and their most visible customs would help to improve the quality of a visit to the place.

Theravada Buddhism

Theravada Buddhism is an important part of the Burmese culture; Buddhism arrived there around two thousand years ago from Sri Lanka; it became mixed with Hinduism and animism. Some Mahayana Buddhism practices arrived from northern India. The early Pyu and Mon kingdoms were Buddhist, while the Bamar people were animists. King Anawrahta of Bagan adopted Buddhism as the kingdom system in 1056AC and went to war with the Mon Kingdom in the south of the country for the Buddhist Canon and monks. Since then, Buddhism was kept as the main social order.

Burmese have worked hard and the country became known as the Land of Pagodas; its landscape is dominated by pagodas and stupas displaying special characteristics, like tin roofs and square, layered towers .

A colorful point for those arriving from Thailand, is that Burmese Buddhist monks wear purple robes while Thai ones prefer orange; the monks can be seen during the mornings in the markets collecting food offerings from the vendors.

Islam

Islam reached Burma at the beginning of the second millennium; it is present mainly along the seaboard and in Yangon. The colonial period brought many Muslim and Hindu Indians to Yangon and transformed Islam into a significant minority.

Chinese Communities

The large Chinese minority can be seen in the ubiquitous Chinese shrines; in an attempt to boost trade, the British allowed their settlement all over the country. Nowadays, there is a new immigration of Chinese, especially to the northern areas of the country.

Christianity

Christianity arrived at Burma only in the nineteenth century; it has been widely adopted by the Chin, Karen, and Kachin people, but less so in the south. Amazingly, Myanmar hosts the second largest Baptist Church in the world, after the United States; the Catholic Church and the Assemblies of God also enjoy a significant presence.

Burmese Culture

Thanaka

Burmese men and women use a special make-up, which is prepared with ground thanaka bark and is put on the face so that it creates attractive white patterns; those are almost personal in nature, many of them feature circular themes. Apparently, the main reason for its use is protection from the sun.

Longyi

Longyi is the name of the sarong worn by both men and women in Myanmar; men make a prominent knot on its front, while women wrap it around themselves. Few other things are so distinctive of Myanmar.

Cheroot

Cheroot is a cigar with both ends clipped during its manufacture, thus they are inexpensive and popular in countries like Myanmar. They are roughly twice the width of regular cigarettes, are longer than them, have a distinctive green color and produce an especially foul smoke. They became popular with the British during colonial times and appear thus often in literature describing the area and period. This is one of the most distinctive activities of the denizens, especially in the coffee shops.

Food

Myanmar lets the taste buds rest after a while in Thailand; its cuisine uses much less spices; some foods - like the samosa - do not use chili at all. The staple food is white rice, though Indian breads like the roti, the naan and the paratha are widely available. The best known Burmese dish is mohinga, a rich fish soup with rice noodles, while the most popular drink is unspiced chai.

Chinlone

As in Thailand, Chinlone is a popular game. It includes a hollow rattan ball, which is kicked with the feet and the knees, the head may also be used, but hands are forbidden of touching the ball. It includes a variable number of players arranged in a circle; the ball is moved around with no apparent order.