Gorgeous Korcula

The Planjak is situated in the very cente of the old town of Korcula and is extremely popular with locals and tourists.

The best times to visit are very early morning before the sun rises high in the sky and gets too hot and before the Jadrolinja ferry docks, dropping off day trippers from Dubrovnik.

The restaurant has a wonderfully shaded terrace with a woven roof of rattan. From the roof hang lanterns to illuminate the restaurant in the evening. Flower boxes have been built into the stone wall and are filled to the brim with trailing pink, white and red geraniums and variagated ivy plants. The odd Yucca plant graces the terrace also, giving the area a mediterranean ambience.

Tables are wooden, dressed in powder blue tablecloths with white napkins as a contrast. Chairs are stainless steel and not the most comfortable especially if you spend hours chatting in a morning over a coffee or two. From around 9am until 11am this restaurant is very busy with locals.They usually go to the supermarket to do the daily shop and then call by to chat and gossip over a few drinks. It is also a very nice way to spend a couple of hours waiting for the ferry to arrive if you are going on a trip to Havar or Split. The restaurant is very close to the pier where you board the Jadrolinja.

In the evening the restaurant comes alive from 9pm onwards and can soon fill up. You can reserve tables and on the weekends I would advise you to do this so you are not disappointed.

I like to visit the Planjak in the evening because the restaurant is known for its grilled specialities rather than fish dishes. A dish which I find very tasty is cevapcici which is grilled mincemeat served in a flat bread (similar to pitta bread) with chopped onions, garlic, sour cream, clotted cream which is called Kajmak and has rather a sour taste and a relish made from baby peppers, aubergines, garlic and hot chilli. The word for this relish is Ajvar. I find this sort of food very appealing because it is easy to eat, tasty and very colourful and of course, very filling.

Another speciality is Raznjici which is a grilled kebab made from pork, veal or lamb which has been marinated before threading on the skewers and grilled. The meat is always very succulent and the juices from the peppers and onions interwoven on the skewer are delicious. These kebabs usually come served on a bed of rice or with a fresh sald and a basket of flat bread.

I am not very keen on the Peljesac wine that is very popular in Korcula. It is too tannic for my palette so I nearly always drink Karlovasco beer with my food. This is a crisp lager with a lot of taste. My husband prefers the more nuttier taste of Ozujsko beer which is darker in colour and a little less fizz. Beer is very cheap in Croatia about 50p for a large glass which is excellent value and although people say the wine is cheap I don't think it is.

So there you - a small but atmospheric restaurant to visit in the old town of Korcula near to the pier with plenty of shade with good, cheap meaty dishes and good beer. It can be a bit breezy in the evenings so take a pullover. Highly Recommended.

The island of Korcula - an emerald jewel set below mountains of granite and skies of azure blue, but how do you transport yourself around this peninsula of beauty? By Jadrolinja ferries, of course. This whiter than white fleet of steel ships has been used by visitors since 1947.

Jadrolinja is a Croatian shipping company that operates mainly car ferries and some catamarans on domestic routes to the Croatian Islands as well as certain routes to Italy.

Having used the ferries a few times I always find the experience one that I never forget. The first time I used the service was from Korcula to Stari Grad which takes around 3 hours. This particular day was a scorcher and we were told to go to the quay at least 60 mintes before the ship was about to dock. As the quay was only round the corner from the hotel we were staying in I thought an hour before was a long time to wait in the sun. Every day we saw the ship sail into the harbour bang on mid-day so we knew it would be on time and the walk from the hotel took about 10 mins so we did what we usually do, took a chance and left about 20 minutes before embarkation.

When we arrived at the quay it was like an evacuation scene. I have never seen so many people at a quay. Mostly young backpackers but their snail like presence with heavy loads upon their shoulders was a sight to be seen. Suddenly a whistle blew and masses of people pushed forward to get on the ship. Being laid back as usual I couldn't understand what the rush was for. I mean we had all bought tickets so we were guaranteed a place.

When we eventually got aboard we went downstairs as there was no way I was going to sit on the top deck in that heat. Could we find a seat - nothing available, only backpacks and bodies everywhere. We went on the second deck and saw the same picture and on the third deck and so on. I really could not believe the sight of bodies, some laid flat out, curled in balls , sat upright, some milling around but the whole floor and seat space of every deck was taken up. There was no alternative but to go up on deck as I didn't fancy standing up for 3 hours.

Arriving on the top deck open to the sun and clouds, the scene was exactly the same. People like flies everywhere. Where there any folks left on Korcula? - it was as if everyone was fleeing from the plague or some other wild epidemic. Really, I am not exaggerating. I never exaggerate - might throw a bit of poetry in now and then but exaggerate I do not.

After pushing forward and hurling myself and bags I managed to squeeze us into a small space next to two hairy Italian bikers. They were both sat at a table drinking beer. Beer, drinks!! I hadn't brought any supplies for the journey and the queue for the small bar on deck was everlasting. We would have to do without but it was so terribly hot. Have you ever sat in the sun and just felt that your whole body was frying. This is what it was like. I was dripping!!!!

I didn't want to move talk or do anything , just sit and conserve my energy. I looked at the guys next to us and they had suddenly dropped off to sleep. The one nearest me - a big burly chap, tatooed, bald, wearing a torn vest showing his hairy armpits, and about 17 stone suddenly started to snore very loudly. He had his beer in his hand and gradually his head was nodding and moving slowly into the glass. He then had a quick jerk and his head fell backwards. Sweat was like a rivulet running down his head and face. I was transfixed. I know it is rude to stare but I couldn't help myself. I sat and watched the river of sweat cascade into his beer glass.

I was soon side tracked as an elederly nun came towards the part of the deck we were on. She must have been sweltering as she had the full gear on and woolly tights. Not one person offered their seat to this gracious lady of God only me. I will go to heaven one day - I hope so but I think not!

At this stage of the journey I was stood but gradually leaning into the next person. I thought, Sod this I am going to go and have a look again downstairs. Fortunately on the bottom deck a group of French school kids had dumped their backpacks on several seats and they were all sat on the floor playing cards, eating cereal and choccy biscuits. I asked one girl very politely if she would be so kind to move a bag or two so me and my husband could sit for the remainder of the journey and so she did. I thanked her kindly and rushed up on deck to whistle and gesticulate to my husband, like Hyacinth Bucket would do. 'Quick, quick, come on, don't hang around we have a seat!!!!

For the remaning 2 hours we were sat, looking at the sea and people watching while our sun drenched bodies cooled down and the sweat evaporated.

So from my little tale you may have gathered these ferries get unbelievably busy. The route from Split to Rijeka is also a busy route and this journey takes 11 hours so the Jadrolinja isn't for the faint hearted.

The Fleet
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According to Wikepedia the fleet consists of 36 car ferries, 8 catamarans, 1 hydrobus and other conventional ships. To look at the ships look Balkan; strong and utilitarian looking. Not graceful in any way like some ferries can look. They are exceptionally white against the waters of the islands and on board the ship is smart and tidy.

I believe the cabins too are very clean and some of the ships have luxury suites but as most times I have travelled it has been so hot and packed I haven't really wanted to look around the rest of the ship.

There are the usual bars and restaurants offering food and wines of the area. On the night crossings entertainment in the form of live groups and dancing is arranged. For the very young there is a playroom.

As all ships have names the Jadrolinja fleet are no different. Names are Marco Polo (of course), Liburna and Dubrovnik.

Booking Tickets
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Booking is a lot easier than it used to be as you can do it online using the Jadrolinja web site:

http://www.jadrolinija.hr/default.aspx?dpid=1305

It is a very good website and is written in English, Croatian, Italian and Dutch.

Here you can look at the sailing schedule and the list of islands the ships sail to. Prices are also available.

If you don't want to book online you can book at the Jadrolinja office direct. These are usually situated on the bigger islands like Korcula, Hvar, and also on the mainland in Dubrovnik, Split and Rijeka.

A little History
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Just to fill you in about this company, it was founded in 1947 in Rijeka which is situated in the Adriatic, in the north western part of Croatia.

The town has a history of maritime trading and has been used as a port for centuries due to it's natural geographical characteristics linking this part of Europe with numerous countries throughout the world.

Ticket Prices
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There is a full price list on the web site and also a full list of all the routes available. To give you an idea this is what I paid:

Korcula - Stari Grad 12 euros each way/ per person

This price was in high season. It is cheaper in low season and there are lots of various reductions for children and groups. Obviously I went as a foot passenger so it will cost more with bikes, motorbikes, caravans, cars etc.

In their own way these ships are physically stunning to look at as they really dominate the waters of the islands. They are extremely popular and can be painfully packed so much that you really do feel like a sardine in a John West can.

All I can say is that it is the cheapest way of getting around in Croatia, not always relaxing but absolutely mind boggling and fascinating watching people.

Croatia wouldn't be Croatia without the Jadrolinja fleet of white ships sailing from jewel to jewel of the Adriatic sea.

Camp Kalac, Korcula, Croatia

Camp Kalac is situated on the beautiful island of Korcula which is just off the Peljesac peninusala - approximately 140 kilometres from Dubrovnik which takes about 3 hours due to the winding coastal road. I have been to Korcula several times but only camped on this site once. We drove from Cumbria to Korcula in a small Bambi camper van. It was exciting to say the least. The engine nearly blew up, radiator overheated and the breaks jammed going down the steepest of hills in Rovinj.

So as you can imagine I was very pleased when we arrived in one piece.

The camp site itself is large, 10 000m2. It has about 250 pitches, all with their own electricity supply. It is 20 minutes walk from the old town of Korcula and is situated in a very wooded area in the bay of Luka Korculanska. There are other campsites but not in walking distance from the town. You would need a car or bus to reach any of the other sites.

Some places are in shade but not all and they are nestled amongst very old pine trees, typical of the Mediterranean. The ground is very undulating and rocky and can be dangerous at night as the site isn't very well lit. My husband actually fell coming back from the shower block one night. The gash on his leg was quite bad and I was worried at the time as it came up in a big lump but by morning it had faded a little and shrunk. So beware - don't have too many glasses of Peljesac wine or Croatian pivo (beer).

Also, if you are taking your own tent, take a good hammer, the brightest torch you have and the right pegs - strong steel ones as the ground is very hard. Quite a few campers had problems with pegs and arriving late at night makes the job difficult due to the weak electric light.

Camping places are well signed or numbered and mostly woven amongst pathways with bushes and shrubs. Places are available for camper vans - all sizes, caravans, large tents and also smaller tents and domes. You can park your car near the tent on a concrete strip or if you wish you can always park it in the designated car park.

Camp Kalac has two separates buildings of toilets and showers with constant supply of hot and cold water (or so it says on the information slip). I wasn't impressed with the loos or shower block. Often they were untidy and water everywhere and most of the time there wasn't any hot water. Also I don't think there is a disabled loo.

There is a supermarket, gift shop and coffe bar on site but not open all the time.

The small sandy beach of Luka Korculanska is less than 50 metres away, so this campsite is suitable for people who would like to use the beach for swimming and sunbathing. Small boats can be hired out. Not sure about their safety - always check first. Windsurfing, sailing or any other water sports are very popular also.

Alongside the wooded bay are a couple of bars/cafes and one restaurant specialising mainly in barbecued meats and fish. The site is also next door to the Bon Reposa Hotel. Campers from the site are allowed to use the facilities of the hotel.

And here's a tip. If you need to wash clothes there is a laundry in the marina in the old town. I think it is probably for members of the marina only but I have used it. It is costly, 7 euros for the smallest load. But they are washed, dried and folded. You can also use the shower block/toilets in the Marina also.

A Brief Summary

Location is beautiful and the site is cool most of the day being sheltered in the trees. This camp site is suitable for a range of people - from families with small children to single travellers or backpackers with small tents and sleeping bags. Animals are also welcome so you can bring your dogs, cats, hamsters etc. It is in walking distance of the old town and bus station if you want to go out for day.

Liburna Hotel is situated in a secluded location with fantastic views of Korcula and Orebic, with the mountain of St. Ilijah looming, dark and moody, in the background. It takes 10 mins to walk into the town passing the marina, with some quite flashy boats usually from Italy and the South of France and various small bars and ice cream parlours.

With stunning views all around you can spend hours sat watching the small boats darting around. It is always a hive of activity. In front of the hotel is a small rocky beach which leads into the sea so it is a perfect location for relaxing and sunbathing if that is all you want to do on your holiday. The rocks are very sharp and it is best to wear special shoes that can be purchased from shops or the market in the old town. They are very cheap, comfortable and stop you fom injuring your feet.

A little information about the hotel and facilities

This hotel was built around 1985 in a sort of communist modernist style which in it's own way can be appealing. Most of the 83 rooms have a balcony or terrace but not all. There are also 26 apartments which are huge. We were given one by mistake. An apartment usually consists of hallway, Large bathroom, seperate room with TV and a double bedroom and balcony.

If you are unlucky and not able to have a room with views of the sea then the alternative view is of the back of the hotel and tennis courts.

Rooms are comfortable, clean but definitely not stunning or luxurious. Each have satellite TV and a well stocked mini bar. Bathrooms are clean with towels changed every day. Plenty of hot water. Although we were comfortable enough I think the furniture and bathrooms, in fact the whole hotel could do with a face lift as it is very out of date. Remember though Croatia has done well to rebuild itself after the war but still needs investment for modernisation.

All rooms in the hotel are situated on three floors built in a mezzanine way with the hotel lounge and reception being on the bottom floor and in the cente of the building. Consequently, this means that it is very noisy especially early morning when new arrivals come from Dubrovnik ar late in the evening when people are drinking and listening to music. We also found that the hotel staff are quite noisy at these times, chatting to each other and clanking dishes and cutlery as they prepare for the next visitors.

Facilities

Lounge with plentiful seating if you want to have a coffee and relax.

TV room - a bit jaded but adequate

Restaurant

The restaurant has a terrace with great views again looking out to the old town of Korcula and the Archipelago. The restaurant itself is like a large canteen. On your first night you will be shown to a table by the dining room manager and you have to sit in that tabe every morning and evening of your stay. If you change seats you will be told off and re-directed to your original seat. Barmy I know but true.

Meals

Buffet style breakfast consisting of various types of cereal, bread, eggs, fruit and cakes. I don't usually eat a lot at breakfast but I do like a boiled egg but as I am a sleepy head and always last arriving I always missed out. Usually tea, fruit and black, coffe and fruit juices are available. A waitress usually brings round the trolley topping up teas and coffees. Fruit juices are synthetic and horrible -not 100% juice.

Evening meals are 3 course and waiter service. Firstly a trolley of beers and wines come round which you have to choose and pay for there and then before the meal is served. Wines are okay but nothing special. Like I have mentioined before red is much nicer than white. Any of the peljesac wines, Poship or Dingac are acceptable. Dingac is meant to be the area's finest wine but I think it is over rated and very expensive. Food is edible but lacking imagination. Main meal usually consists of various meats or fish served with packet mash (yuk!) and either green beens or cabbage. Vegetables are scarse - don't know why. Could be because they have to be brought on to the island and are expensive. Tinned vegetables are the alternative. There is always a self service salad bar every day which is fresh and healthy. As well as the usual salad ingredients there are pulses, sweetcorn and beetroot. There is usually a vegetarian option every day but can be a bit dubious. It is usually stuffed peppers but unfortunately there are sometimes pieces of meat mixed in and I have had veggie soup and found bacon floating around so be warned. Desserts - Ice Cream and various cakes.

Specal night is Friday. Apertifs are free and the meal has a little more imagination. As a starter, palma ham with olives and salad, then a choice of meats for the main meal but the special delicacy is what they call an omelette in Croatian. No it isn't made from eggs and fried. It is a Baked Alaska. To serve this they turn off the lights off and the dish is served on a huge platter with candles. A nice touch I thought.


Bar

Open air apertif bar open all day and closes at 11pm. We didn't find the staff very friendly or helpful here. Rather than keep buying glasses of wine we asked if we could buy a half bottle or pitcher of wine. Definitely not - they couldn't do that. So every night we had the same argument and it became tiresome in the end. Other beverages like tea and coffe are sold in the bar. Tea is weak and coffee is bitter.

Foyer

Here there is souveneir shop and Internet facilities. To use the computer you have to pay at reception. It is quite expensive - equivalent of 1 euro per 15mins. Internet prices all over the island are expensive but you will always be able to find Internet as it is everywhere.

Other facilities

The hotel has a small pool but it isn't really big enough for swimming in properly. Most people swim in the sea and just lounge around the pool. If you like to play tennis there are two courts, a mini golf terrain and a bowling alley. You can hire mopeds, bikes, motor and sailing boats from reception. If you wish to take a boat ride to look at the beauty of Korcula you can always hop on any of the small water taxis waiting at the hotel pier. Badija is very popular, a lovely smalll island with it's 15th century Franciscan monastery. Also the island of Stupe, known to naturists, which is only 2kms away.

At the back of the hotel there is a road which leads to the passenger/car ferry going to Orebic. It is much quieter than Korcula but definitely worth a visit.

Reception staff are helpful.and most staff speak a little English.

Local buses are cheap if you want to take a scenic ride. The bus station is about 10 mins walk. Vela Luka is a good place to visit but the ride is hectic as some of the bus drivers are erratic. and bad tempered. If you wish to visit Dubrovnik you can catch the local bus which leaves at 6am and returns from Dubrovnik at around 3pm. Always buy tickets at the station and sit on the seats corresponding to the number on your ticket or else there will be arguments. If you have luggage you have to pay the bus driver extra.

Various sightseeing trips can be booked in reception. Favourites are a day trip to Mostar, Dubrovnik, Miljet and Hvar. If you don't want to go by road the Jadrolina office is in the old town and it is easy to book tickets to Dubrovnik, Split and Hvar but these are longer trips.

The hotel has entetainment during the week, a traditional folk band and another group that plays cover numbers. The traditional band is very good and the other group is okay but more for old timers. There is a dance floor but again the dancing I saw was from another era - still fun to watch.

Well I think that covers it. To summarise I would say Hotel Liburna has a fantastic location. Rooms are adequate and comfortabe. Staff are usually helpful and friendly. Food is edible but not fantastic. This is a 3 star hotel on a five star island. Worth a stay if just for the Baked Alaska.

Summary: Recommended for the views - they are spectacular.

I first went to Korcula about 4 years ago with my husband. My son had been left home a year, hitchhiking around the world and we hadn't seen him for 12 months. We wanted to meet up somewhere and he suggested Montenegro. I tried to find a cheap package to Montenegro but they were far too expensive so I chose Korcula instead.

We booked a week at the Park Hotel with flight's included. This was with Monarch airlines. The flight was about 3 hours or a bit more and it was very noisy.We were both a bit trepidatious about this trip as we didn't really know a lot about the area. Wow! When we arrived at Dubrovnik airport and stepped off the plane we were both hooked. That backdrop of mountains with a slight breeze wafting pine and eucalyptus in the air - it was great, and to this day is still one of my favourite airports.

After checking our lugage out we had to go and find our transport to the island which was an air conditioned coach. Yes you have guessed - the air conditioning didn't work! It was very humid even for early June. We met the rep who was a nice chap, very friendly and helpful.

We then travelled to Korcula on one of the most scenic roads I have ever been on. The road twists and turns overlooking various islands of still, turquoise water. Passing Dubrovnik, the old walled city that was bombed badly in the Balkan war, but has now been rebuilt and is so beautiful; sandstone buildings with bright red roof tiles gleaming in the hot Croatian sun. It is quite a small city but has such a big heart, filled with travellers from all over the world.

The journey took about 3 hours and 45 minutes but we did stop off for a beverages and something to eat at a cafe standing high in the hills.

The last stop on the mainland before we caught our ferry is Orebic and as you look across the water you can see Korcula rising majestically out of the clear blue sea. Magnificent! We were taken across the water in a boat with our suitcases strapped high on top. I could see a lot of worried faces probably thinking - are our cases safe ??

It was really exciting as we arrived near to the quay as we could see our son waiting for us. It was a lovely day and although it had been a long journey we were so happy to be in Korcula as on first impressions it looked fantastic. The luggage was taken up to the room for us which was a bonus as we were feeling lazy and tired.

Korcula town was reasonably busy even though it was the first week of June. It was also the week that the European Football Championships started and that year both Croatia and England were playing. Croatians love football and young lads were always in the streets kicking footballs around. There was a good atmosphere on the island, very jolly and exuberant. We did actually go to one of the bars in the town whilst a match was on -England v Croatia. My husband was a bit wary as he thought they might get a bit boisterous and cause trouble. It was okay. Yes, they were a bit drunk and rowdy but no worse than any other football fans. England won that match and afterwards we had people come up to us and say, 'Congratulations the best team won.'

I seem to have gone off on a tangent there. Now for reviewing things consumers like to know about:

Food, restaurants and bars:

Korcula has numerous smaller and larger restaurants dotted around Korcula Old Town as well as around villages and bays all over the Island. In general restaurants in the old town are expensive and you don't always get good value for money.

Apart from pizzas which are sold in nearly every establishment on the island most other dishes are expensive. There are plenty of small grill restaurants with fish and pork on the menu but we didn't have a good experience, eating out.

Konoba Marinero was recommended to us so we thought we would give it a go. I ordered prawns in garlic and pepper sauce and my husband ordered what he thought was some sort of bream. When ordering fish you are first shown the fish by the waiter on the platter and then you say what size you would like, and they charge you by weight. We had to wait a long time but that didn't matter too much and as the restaurant was busy we had to sit outside which was fine as it was much cooler if a little dimly lit. When the meal eventually came we just stared at each other. My prawns - all 4 of them were swimming in a bowl of sauce (garlic and pepper). They were very tasty but not filling as only a couple of slices of bread came with the dish. Where was the rice? Then the fish came and that was all - one piece of fish decorated wth a bit of parsley and lemon and about 2 boiled potatoes. Well as you can imagine my husband was not impressed and when the bill came I thought he was going to have a panic attack. The fish cost £18 and that was 4 years ago. He thought it was incredibly expensive and has never forgotten it.

If you want good value then I think it is better going out of the old town to one of the kinoba's near the campsite or next to the Hotel Park and Marco Polo Hotel. Also I'll give you a tip - if you take the ferry to Orebic there are some good restaurants there. Several ferries run each day and in the evening. every 30 minutes, but check the time of the last one back as I think it is 10.30. The journey takes about 15 mins as it is just over the water. All along the water front there are smaller kinoba's and if you walk the full stretch of the road near the sea , turn left at the end and there is a restaurant under the pine trees. I have only had pizza and salad but it was cheap and delicious. Drinks are also very cheap - beer and wine. Sorry I can't remember the name of the place.

Bars are plentiful everywhere all over the island. July and August bands play in the old town and there are always lots of festivities taking place. Beer is cheaper than England and very tasty. Favourites are Karlovacko and Osjecko. Wine is a bit dubious although people love to recommend wine of the island but I think it is a bit rough. Stick with red Peljesac as that is the smoothest. White is too acidic but it is my personal opinion only.

Shopping

Plenty of supermarkets but if you are looking for English goodies you won't find much. I did come across some tartan shortbread in one shop. You can buy most basic items including fresh fruit. There is a market in Korcula old town that sells foodstuffs as well as souveneirs. Croatians love to barter and they can be pushy in a fun sort of way. Plenty of small boutique type shops selling fancy clothes and shoes and all over the island are souveneir shops selling bad taste souveneirs usually. If you like T shirts there is a great shop in the old town selling rock shirts and other individual designs. They are very cheap - about £4 - £5 each. They are good value and they don't shrink. I usually stock up when I visit.

Accommodation

I think there are 4 hotels on the island and if you don't go with a package, can be very expensive. (sobe) are plentiful but come high season the sobe grannies put the prices up as it is very competitive. Apartments and houses are available for rent also. To find out about accommodation any of the agencies who book trips will have lists or just go to the harbour when the Jadrolina ferry comes in from Dubrovnik every day. Property owners always tout for business at that spot as well as the sobe grans!

What to do in Korcula

If you like sunbathing there are very few sandy beaches. Nearly all beaches are pebbles, rocks or slabs of concrete. So if the Algarve is your favourite destination for a beach holiday you may be a little disappointed with Korcula and Croatia in general. Sandy beaches are very rare. However, the water is crystal clear and warm and is beautiful for swimming although getting into the water can be dangerous because of the sharp rocks so always wear swimming.

The bus station is nearby where you can catch buses to take you round the island.