Kauai, My Version of Paradise

This place is perfect for us. It is not gigantic or all about glamour, it has the flavor of the island, Kauai. It is smaller than some of the others, a lovely setting, kind of quiet, and yet offers some activities.

We visit Hawaii to learn about the culture, history, people and the land itself and are therefore not at the resort all day, any day during our visits. We want something nice, somewhat upscale and with an excellent location. This is an excellent location. We like to visit the south side of the island as well as the north side and east side and staying here gives us the options we are looking for. One of the issues in visiting Kauai is the time it takes to get from one side of the island to the other. It can be a 2 hour drive from a lodging on the north shore to go see a sight like Spouting horn or Waimea Canyon on the south side. Also it is a 5 minute drive from the airport, without all the airport noise. While the beach does not offer swimming due to the rocks and tides it is wonderful to sit and watch the water. There are many good beaches are all over in Kauai with Lydgate a mere 1 mile down the road which is a great place for the children and wary adults to swim in safety with amenities, like restrooms and showers.

The units facing the ocean have the advantage of the ocean view but if you are rarely there during the day you may prefer a Lagoon view with the lighted fountains. All units have a lanai with a view of the ocean or the lagoons and all are attractive views.

We fell in love with the island and particularly Kauai Beach Villas. The grounds have been well kept, the people who stay there are friendly, housekeeping is prompt and helpful if you need something like an extra pitcher. It is clean, we feel safe. After our initial visit we returned in June of 2006 and May of 2008 and plan to return at least every other year. We have brought friends with us each time and they all want to return. We definitely, and highly recommend it for visitors who want to see the island and still have time to relax.

One word of caution however, between our 2006 visit and 2008 visit, Wyndham Vacations assumed management of the resort. Our early impressions of Wyndham are not good. As owners we dearly hope that they start paying attention to this little gem of a resort.

Sure, it’s easy to recommend a restaurant that serves good food and provides excellent service. But how do they perform when things don’t go very well? Things like electrical problems that toss a windowless dining room into darkness? In Kintaro’s case, they do okay.

We were about ten minutes into a twenty minute wait for a table, when something went foobar with the electric and most (but not all) of the building went dark. Emergency lights came on as they should and flashlights appeared to help customers and staff navigate around each other, but strangely enough… no one left the building! Not a single customer in the bar got up and said "the heck with this!" That suggested a rather loyal following, or some very hungry people that just didn’t know any better.

We had gone there on the suggestion of a guy that we met while watching the canoe races in Kona on the Big Island the week before. When he heard that our next stop was Kauai, he enthusiastically suggested Kintaro and Hanamaleu (which we didn’t get a chance to visit this time) as excellent places to eat. Here’s a general suggestion from me, when a local resident offers a restaurant to visit… write down the name and address… and go there!

Shortly after the lights came back on, we were taken to our table where we had an excellent dinner. Edamame, sushi and sashimi that made any memory of a wait or power outage just fly from our memories. The service was excellent, especially after the power was restored and we were able to get down to the business of chowing down. Don’t ask me what I had, I’m not sushi-centric enough to remember all the different things that I tried, let alone explain their subtle or obvious differences. I do remember that everything was fresh, from the sushi and sashimi (which had better be fresh) down to the ingredients that made up Sue’s hot pot dish and the miso soup.

Suffice to say, it was all delicious and we’ll be going back again!

Whether you’re on the way to Waimea Canyon or returning from there, the Shrimp Station is an excellent place to stop for and early or late lunch (sadly, they close at 4:00). Just be aware that they got some of the best sweet chili garlic sauce that I’ve ever had! Sweet and tangy, what a flavor that won’t quit.

We got lucky, driving by on our way to the canyon I made a mental note to stop there on the way back. After the numerous canyon-inspired photo ops and a hike down the Pihea trail across the Kalalau Valley rim, we just drove leisurely down to Waimea behind someone intent on burning out the brakes of his jeep (a rental maybe?). Had we known that they close early, we might have had a little more sense of urgency. But God watches over fools like us I guess, as we got there at about 3:45 and watched them close up shop as we licked the remaining traces of sauce from our fingers. No worries, it’s an outdoor dining type of place anyway and there is a wash basin to clean your hands at, just in case your lips are a little too sensitive to the tasty sauce (did I mention how sweet and spicy it is?).

Three of us had the shrimp tacos, which didn’t disappoint in the least… large, filling and worth the wait while they were prepared. The fourth intrepid adventurer in our group opted for the coconut shrimp with the expectation that it might be a little less spicy, but she was a little disappointed until the folks behind the counter were able to provide some sour crème to lessen the heat a little. With that little adjustment we were a happy foursome of casual diners. Prices are on the high side of moderate for what’s basically "order at the window" roadside fare, but the flavor makes it worthwhile.

If you play your cards right; and manage your time and diet, you can finish off your day at the canyon with some shrimp tacos, followed by a shave ice at Jo Jo’s just down the street for dessert!

I don’t know that you can make a better choice for breakfast or lunch to combine with your visit to Kilauea Lighthouse, than to stop by Kong Lung Center’s Kilauea Bakery & Pau Hana Pizza. Get out of your car and walk past the shops, as you’ll never see this little gem from the street.

This is the kind of non-traditional pizza that I think is worthy of being a tradition all it’s own. Their signature pizza is called the Billie Holiday and features Swiss chard, roasted onions, Gorgonzola-rosemary sauce, and mozzarella among a host of yummy ingredients.

The bakery is no slouch either, and probably deserves it’s first billing just for the variety of breads (guava sourdough?) and other baked goods. And even some savory soups as well. Hey… you gotta have something to dip the bread in, don’t you? The cookies looked especially tempting, but I’m still trying to watch my weight, so I just enjoyed the fresh baked aroma and the view.

Caffeine junkies will also probably like the espresso selection as well. There is a small dining room, but we elected to sit in the breeze taking advantage of the umbrella tables just outside.

Let see, excellent food… check! Excellent service… check! Gorgeous setting… check! Wonderful atmosphere… check!

We read about the Beach House Restaurant prior to our first trip to Kauai, and naive soul that I am, I thought that 5 days in advance would be sufficient to make a reservation. Silly me! The next two visits, I called more than a month in advance and was able to book a table for 4 with no trouble. I would probably visit this restaurant solely for the fantastic view from the table. The sunsets are gorgeous and even the multitudes of visitors wandering around the grounds do little to spoil that.

But if the sunset is the hook, you’ll stay and be dazzled by the food. We started with the Shiitake-crusted Mussels and Togarashi Fried Calamari (with a guava cocktail sauce) along with Mango TikiTinis

One of us had a melon salad that was so well presented, I had to take a picture (it’s included with this review).

Last time I had the Macadamia Nut Crusted Mahi-mahi, on this visit it was Wasabi-crusted Snapper, fantastic! Others in our party had Seafood & Penne Pasta, Fire-roasted Ahi, and the Kauai Duet (crab-topped fresh fish, seared scallops, edamame risotto, sweet Thai chili sauce). No one was even remotely disappointed.

For the current menu, check out their website!. You’ll still have to call ahead for reservations though, so pick up that phone!

On a good evening, you can sit at your table and watch surfers, strollers and just about anyone that likes watching the ocean. If you can’t get a reservation or don’t want to pop for an expensive but memorable dinner, consider appetizers and drinks in the bar. You’ll still have a wonderful evening!

One of the aspects of Kauai that appeals most to me is the rich selection of dining opportunities on the island. Not just the number of good restaurants, but the differing styles of cuisine that seem to hybridize perfectly with their setting. Who could predict that Mediterranean/Lebanese cooking would shine so perfectly with such a distinctly Pacific theme? Mediterranean Gourmet's seaside setting doesn't hurt either.

The first thing that appealed to me is that this is a very spacious dining area, perfect for jovial groups and romantic couples at the same time. You won't be bumping into other diners chairs just trying to navigate to the rest room (unless you're on that third or fourth mojito of course). You can have conversation and still hear the live music in the bar at the same time. That's becoming all too rare in today's corporate-bean-counter-dominated world of dining. I'll step off that soapbox for now though.

We got off to a fantastic start with some excellent hot hummus and pita bread, a combo that was replenished from time to time as it kept vanishing to our taste buds. Then came the drinks!

The four of us each had something different, the Mojito, a Haena Sunset, Mango Margarita and a Sidecar (a favorite of our table's academic sophisticate). And yes, everyone had to try a little of each, leaving us all to mull over the potential cost of a taxi back to Lihue should we indulge our baser desires. Prudence won out, since no one was willing to assume the role of designated driver, although the virgin Lava Flow did offer a possible way out of that conundrum.

Salads… yes!

But the main course was outstanding. The seafood bouillabaisse with its steamy, garlic wine broth would be the star in any restaurant anywhere. Thank goodness for the absorption capabilities of the pita bread! But on this night, the bouillabaisse was the second most popular entrée, finishing behind the paella. Wow! Now that was a dish to remember! The rice was perfect for me, with chunks of ahi, ono and shrimp throughout. But the crowning touch was two king crab legs that the server said the chef had bought fresh that morning and had been a little conflicted about how best to serve them. He made the right choice by pairing them with the paella. After devouring the crab, I still had enough paella to take back to the resort with me. There was no way I was going to leave that behind!

For more information, you can see the current menu and entertainment schedule at Mediterranean Gourmet's website. My only regret is that we weren't there on Saturday as that's when the entertainment features belly dancing. The musicians that we heard that night were very good though.

Mediterranean Gourmet is located just a few miles past Hanalei, before you get to Tunnels and Ke'e beaches, next to (part of?) the Hanalei Colony Resort. You might drive by without even noticing it, were it not for the banner of the door proclaiming its status as Honolulu Magazine's Best New Restaurant on Kauai in its 2007 Hale 'Aina Awards and Best Restaurant for 2008.

Years ago, in a galaxy far far away, I had a short career as a restaurant management trainee. One anecdote that has always stayed with me was an observation by a very successful restaurateur that he never took over a location that had not hosted at least 3 failed restaurants. It doesn't make any sense at face value, but from my observations of the 30 years since then, there may be something to that theory. I was reminded of that when I realized that on our two previous trips to the island there had been two different restaurants there; neither of which had enough appeal to pull us in from the art and jewelry store that sits by the entrance. That said, I hope that Mediterranean Gourmet proves that business theory correct by becoming a long time fixture at the north end of the island. We will definitely be going back!

There are two reasons to visit Kilauea Point, one is that the view is extraordinarily beautiful under almost any weather conditions. The second is that you’re likely to see some excellent bird and marine life. You could also visit the point just to appreciate the Lighthouse.

The lighthouse played a key role for the sugar plantations that once dotted the area, serving as the navigation beacon for ships servicing the cane industry and guiding shipping to Asia. Located on the northernmost tip of the Hawaiian Islands it was often the last sight of land before reaching Japan, China or the Philippines beginning with its commissioning in 1913. It was decommissioned in 1976, however the 52 foot tower and grounds form the focal point for the Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge and the Point is lited on the State and National Registers of Historic Places.

Admission to the refuge cost $5 per person (16 and older), although for serious birders and nature lovers that might want to make multiple repeat visits throughout their stay you can also purchase a kama‘aina pass available for $20 that will give you unlimited entrance for a year. I’m jealous over anyone that will have the time to take advantage of that.

The US Fish and Wildlife Service acquired the 31 acre site in 1985 and currently manages it as part of a 203-acre wildlife refuge. For some, the words "wildlife refuge" might conjure up visions of slopping through mud and swatting mosquitoes while listening to some eco-geek point out signs of where the animals "have been" while lamenting that "conditions just aren’t right today" to explain why they aren’t seeing anything larger than an insect. That’s an unfortunate characterization, however I know some people whose eyes glaze over when they realize that the wildlife I’m describing has wings or fins rather than martinis and sushi. A visit to Kilauea Point just might change their image a little though.

It’s very accessible, just down the road from Kilauea town, you can gawk at the entrances to some very pricy real estate on your way past. Note that I said the "entrances", cause that’s all you’ll see these estates (a lot of dot com money, I’m told). Once you park, just pay your admission fee, then amble or roll up the walk to the point. I can almost bet that you’ll be there longer than you plan.

Being the northernmost point of the islands, Kilauea is apparently as important to migratory bird and marine life as it is to shipping traffic. If you know what you’re looking for, you’re likely to see birds like the Pacific golden plover and the nene (pronounce it nay nay), the State Bird of Hawaii. Even if you don’t know what you’re looking for, you’ll see plenty (hundreds? thousands?) of red-footed booby and frigate birds with the signage helping you distinguish one from the other.

The booby is a cool bird that seems to just work the wind extremely well, but still needs practice on takeoffs and landings. The frigate bird is an agile catcher of fish, and sometimes it will try to steal the catch from other birds, in mid-air.

If you’re neck becomes tired of looking skyward, just pan the ocean for sights of humpback whales, Hawaiian monk seals and spinner dolphins. We’ve never seen the whales, because they generally pass by between November and February. But I have seen a dolphin or two, and I "think" I might have caught a glimpse of a monk seal (that doesn’t sound too eco-geeky does it?).

In any case, you should leave Kilauea Point with an increase (of some kind) in your wildlife knowledge. The signage and viewing binoculars make that an almost sure thing. Did I mention that you can borrow binoculars there too?

Lastly, there is a small store in the Visitor Center where you can purchase books, maps, instructional DVDs and other mementos too.

You can get more information at the website for the Kilauea National Wildlife Reserve, along with a list of endangered plants and animals on the Endangered and Threatened Species page.

It’s not often that I get thrilled with a shopping center. Suffice to say that I’m not exactly a shopping kind of guy. But then, it’s not often that a shopping center is under the third generation of family ownership, and it’s even less often that the shopping center in question has nary a chain store in it. Welcome to Ching Young Village in Hanalei!

I might be wrong about the absence of chain stores, but perusing the center’s directory, I didn’t’ see a single franchise or chain that I recognized. Thus, perception becoming reality, I proclaim Ching Young Village an official "my kind of shopping mall"!
Wow, that’s a little over the top. Okay, that’s a lot over the top, but I hate travelling a few thousand miles to be faced with another Wal-Mart or McDonald’s. I’m sorry to report, though, there is a Wal-Mart on Kauai and a couple McDonald’s as well, plus a few other examples of corporate mainland. But then, I digress.

What Ching Young has to offer is a nice collection of shops with a good selection of goods and services, with prices that belie the notion that everyday life on the islands has to be expensive. Herewith a few of my favored stores.

The Spinning Dolphin is an exceptionally cool t-shirt shop with a relatively low percentage of what I call "yayhoo" shirts. You know what I mean, shirts that celebrate beer and boobs. One of my "got to do" little traditions now for every visit to Kauai, is to scrounge through the goof box near the front window, for a marked down shirt that has some tiny flaw that lowers the price to 5 or 6 bucks. Three trips to Kauai and three trips to Spinning Dolphin have now blessed me with three of my favorite t-shirts. And as an added benefit, any purchaser of a shirt gets to sign the carpet. Walk about half way into the store, straight from the front door and you’ll find :"Michael wants to live here" scrawled amongst a number of endearments and bon mots.

Hula Moon Gifts of Hanalei has a number of gift and jewelry items. Sue fell for a pair of koa wood earrings, and I now have a teak gecko hanging next to my desk at home.

Pedal and Paddle is a nice shop for snorkeling equipment at affordable prices. And if you somehow managed to make it to the island without a pair of Crocs, you can find them here,

I also have to give a pleasant nod to Timeshare Resales. After a rather stressful encounter with the sales presentation at Wyndham (the new manager of our Kauai Beach Villas timeshare) Tom was able to put things into perspective for us and allay our fears. If you’re interested in buying into a timeshare, I wouldn’t hesitate to send you his way.

This is also where you find the guys with Na Pali Catamaran tours, but I have a separate (here’s a hint, I like them) review for that experience.

Ching Young Village is in Hanalei, on the Kuhio Highway (like about 60% of the rest of Kauai’s businesses). If you want to check out the full directory of shops, Check out their website.

It's not the fault of the Smith Family that the Fern Grotto has lost much of its appeal, you can blame Mother Nature for that. Back in the early 90's, Hurricane Iniki ravaged what had become an incredibly beautiful setting for weddings and romantic interludes. Then just as the grotto was just beginning to reclaim some of it's splendor, the wet spring of 2006 washed away another generation of vegetation. So the question becomes, is it worth the $20 per adult ($10 for kids) boat ride? Maybe once, or maybe the better plan would be to just rent a kayak and go yourself.

The good news is that the Smith Family is on its fourth or fifth generation of involvement in the Fern Grotto cruises and the luau at their Smith's Tropical Paradise. They have every nuance of the experience choreographed and planned out (be sure to kiss your partner at the conclusion of the Hawaiian Wedding Song now!). The bad news is that they have every nuance of the experience choreographed and planned out. Thank goodness though, that this is the Smith family and not the Disney family. The live performers and live narration would have been replaced years ago with animatronics and recordings.

The downside of all that of course, is that live performers sometimes get distracted by the repetition of four or five cruises a day and basically perform on autopilot. They were friendly enough, and talented enough; there just wasn't a great deal of enthusiasm in the performance of Hawaiian music both at the grotto and on the cruise back to the landing.

The Wailua River is beautiful though. We were fortunate on our 90 minute or so trip to actually see the peak of Mount Wai 'ele 'ele. That's notable because given its status as the wettest place on the planet, you don't often see the summit through its dressing gown of heavy clouds. Judging by the number of boats at the landing, I doubt that you'll ever have to worry about not getting a seat. All in all though, I found myself looking wistfully at the sun-baked souls paddling up and down river in the kayaks.

Boat tours depart daily from the Wailua Marina State Park at 9:30am, 10:00am, 11:30am, 1:30pm, 2:00pm and 3:30pm. For more information or advance ticket purchases, you can go to their website.

Na ‘Āina Kai will fool you, if you were to just walk through the gardens on your own (which you can’t), you’d be excused for thinking that the property had been maturing for over 50 years. But it all began when Joyce (the first wife of Peanuts creator Charles Schultz) and Ed Doty moved to Kauai in 1982. The name Na ‘Āina comes from the Hawaiian language, Land of the Seas and was originally the Joyce and Ed’s home. Over the next 17 years, the Doty’s built the gardens and gathered a vast collection of whimsical bronze sculptures. In 1999, wearied by the sound of the surf crashing against the rocky sea coast below; and concerned about how the gardens would be maintained after they were gone, Mr. and Mrs. Doty gave the 200+ acres to the State of Hawaii. We are all thus enriched!

The first thing you need to know about Na ‘Āina Kai is that this is basically one woman’s vision for her estate and the hardwood plantation that surrounds it. I mention that because if you visit with the intention of learning more about the science of botany and the expectation of seeing a 100% native eco-system, you might be disappointed at first. But the sheer beauty of the gardens will likely win you over no matter what your expectations might be.
There are a number of gardens and different ways to see them. First, as mentioned at the outset, you aren’t allowed to simply roam around on your own. You may either take a guided walking tour with a very knowledgeable volunteer, or you can ride a tram. The price of a tour ranges from $30 (for a 90 minute walk through the formal gardens) to $75 (a 5 hour stroll throughout the complete set of gardens and such). But if you are Friend of your local botanical garden (like St. Louis’ Missouri Botanical Garden) you can have $30 deducted from the cost for each of two visitors. Reservations are suggested.

For me the highlight might have been the Poinciana Maze, a labyrinth hedge of over 2,000 mock orange plants, with various topiary and sculptures. Some might be satisfied with just the statuary placed throughout. Keep in mind, this isn’t modern sculpture that suggest multiple interpretations, this is the school of sculpture that strives for realistic forms of people that suggest a story or memorialize a moment or emotion.

Another interesting area is the Desert Garden, a collection of cacti which makes for some interesting botanical oxymorons. For example one cactus has moss growing at its base. Think about that for a moment, moss requires a certain level of dampness whereas the cactus is... well... a desert dweller.

The main building (the former Doty home) and formal gardens are available for weddings and receptions, a fact that will certainly feed the fantasies of a few brides and the nightmares of a few doting fathers with limited means.

We didn’t get to see the hardwood plantation but we were able to see some teak and mahogany plantings near the visitor center. For more information, just go to their websiteand make your plans!

Well now, we’ve seen the Na Pali Coast by helicopter, by hiking trail, and now by boat; and honestly I can’t say that one method is better than the other. The views from the helicopter are spectacular, as is the price. And not everyone likes to stride down a dirt trail, even if the view alongside it is stunning. But a catamaran, now that introduces a couple new elements.

Air… land… or sea? You have to try each one, otherwise you'll miss out on something. And when you go looking for a boat, look no further than Na Pali Catamaran. We did a lot of reading up on the various charter cruises that are available on Kauai, and Na Pali Catamaran has one, very basic advantage. They are just closer to Na Pali than the other guys. Don't believe me? Click here and take a look at their web site. The Na Pali guys (along with only one or two others) leave from Hanalei Bay, the other guys (for permit reasons) all ship out of Port Allen on the south side of the island. Simply put, they have to motor up the coast for at least 40 minutes before they even see the Na Pali. The Hanalei guys are there in less than 10.

They usually have two cruises a day, both with snorkeling and a deli-style lunch. The morning cruise leaves at 7:30, that’s an ouch if you’re driving up from Lihue. Trouble is, that’s when you’re more likely to see some active marine life. But the afternoon cruise departs at 1:30 and you’ll still have plenty to see (in our case that meant a Hawaiian monk seal and a lot of sea turtles).

Report to their office on the Kuhio Highway in Hanalei, well prior to cruise time, that will give you a little extra time to sip a fresh smoothie from the fruit stand next door or to browse the shops at Ching Young Village. When you check in, you’ll get your snorkel and fins, plus a dry bag for your camera and other valuables (just be careful with aerosols, we sun blocked our towels something fierce). Then you’ll be shuttled in a large van, over to the park by Hanalei Bay. But you’re not there quite yet. Next you’ll need a short ride in a powered outrigger out to the catamaran. Now you can get comfortable.

The boat is 34 feet long, with twin 200hp motors. In another difference that appealed to us, it only accommodates 16 passengers. That means that you won’t be stepping all over each other during the cruise. Some catamarans are built for entertaining and lounging. This one is built to be a sightseeing and dive boat! While it might look a little dull next to some of the more showy vessels, I can promise that the quality of your experience will far surpass some of the more elegant cats with masts. Why? Two words… sea caves! And yes, they do have a rest room on board.

It took two trips to ferry our group out to the boat, but no one had to bemoan their position as the deck arrangement gives you excellent visibility from either side. So once we were fully loaded and had our safety orientation (yes, they’re serious about that), we sailed out of Hanalei Bay, past Tunnels and Ke’e beaches and around the point where the road stops and Na Pali begins.

The basic rule of thumb is that if someone sees something they should just sing out, the boat will slow or do whatever they need to do for you all to see the whale, dolphin or monk seal. And usually, the guy that sees something worthwhile will not be one of that passengers, it will be the cap’n or mate. Note the picture of Cap’n Nick steering the boat with his feet, while looking out the hole in the cabin roof.

We made a lot of side trips into sea caves that amazed us. One of the accompanying pictures with this review was taken inside a cave that had a hole at the top, with the sunlight boring through the hole and making the water below glow in an iridescent blue! It’s so vivid that you’d almost swear there was something glowing down below.

Cap’n Nick and Cap’n Chris were excellent guides. They were the first to spot the monk seal as well as a lot of other wildlife. And they pointed out sites that had been used in various movies, like Six Days/Seven Nights (with Harrison Ford and Anne Heche). And most importantly, they graciously answered every question that was thrown at them; some insightful and some that were beyond dumb (personally, I appreciated their patience with my dumb question).

Once we reached the snorkel cove, we tied off on a mooring buoy and after a brief orientation we started to slip into the 30 foot water. Now that’s cool. I set off and explored a few different types of coral, while Sue swam among some colorful schools of fish. But the most memorable moment came when we were swimming together. I saw him first. Gesturing toward the sea turtle, I didn’t get her attention until he was only about 20 feet away. She took in a little sea water when she gasped, but trooper that she is she cleared her snorkel and got her face back down in time to watch the turtle (with a shell that was about 3 feet long) just slide under us. Way cool!

Some folks might suggest that the only difference between a souvenir and a memento is about $50 or more. I’d rather not make judgments of that sort. Sitting atop my computer monitor at this very moment is a sandbag gecko ($5) from my first visit to Kauai and a $3 tropical fish from this last visit. Other pricier remembrances can be found at home. But my point here is that if you see something that strikes your interest and will trigger memories of a wonderful trip for years to come, go for it!

There are all sorts of places that feature Hawaiian shirts, sarongs and other items, but let’s face it, how many of them really, really are Hawaiian in origin? A check of the label is always a good place to start, and at the very least it should say "Designed in Hawaii, Made in ______" The usually "made in" location will probably be China, but where’s the surprise in that eh?

So with that in mind, I would recommend a couple destinations for picking up those gifts and souvenirs that you’ll need to fill up your suitcase and carryon bags for your trip home.

First off, there’s the big Kanuna of Hawaiian wear, Hilo Hattie’s. They offer a ton of wearing apparel that reflect both the best and less than best aspects of Hawaiian style. They also have plenty of other items, ranging from kitschy hula girl statues to Hawaiian music CDs (I personally recommend "Facing Future" by Israel Kamakawiwo'ole). As you enter the store, you’re greeted with a shell lei. That’s a nice touch! Prices are reasonable for the value that you receive. That means you’ll find some economically priced shirts with okay designs and you’ll find some more expensive ones that look and feel wonderful!. And there are plenty of cheap gifties for the kids and folks back at the office.

One word of caution though, beware the "pearl ladies". If you hear the sound of a bell, accompanied by a loud "Aloha", you can best interpret that as a warming that someone is about to get roped into a purchase of pearl jewelry that they really didn’t plan on. The hook is that you pick an oyster and it’s opened right there. You get to keep the pearl (either for free or a minimalish $5.00 charge). The fun starts when you start pricing the rings and other jewelry to display this erstwhile treasure. If it’s pearls you want, you would do much better to just go to a jeweler you know and trust.

Another source of genuine Hawaiian stuff is the famous Red Dirt Shirts. I like them because they’re truly original, t-shirts that are dyed using the red dirt that you find everywhere on Kauai. I’m told that one pail of dirt will dye 500 shirts. The designs on them range from simple to uniquely Hawaiian petro glyph images or a brightly colored rooster; to the more corny touristy slogans and such. They have a few stores located around the island, and a number of other vendors sell them as well. I have a certain fondness for the Red Dirt Store in Waimea (see the picture). Their selection is awesome, the prices are reasonable and they are located just a couple doors down from Jo Jo’s Shave Ice stand (a destination worthy of a pilgrimage if ever there was one).

Lastly, if you’re looking for more variety, check out the Kauai Craft Fair just north of Kapa’a. There are a number of tent booths interspersed with a couple permanent stores that all specialize in locally produced merchandise. That’s not to suggest that everything is local, but you’ll find more local stuff here than most locations, and sometimes you’ll be taking to the person that made the clothes, art or jewelry that caught your eye in the first place. On each of our trips to Kauai, we’ve brought home stuff ranging from bookmarks, pareos, jewelry and other little tschotskes. The most popular of these has proven to be a clamshell style purse that Sue bought on our first trip, and has since purchased a couple others at the behest of friends (sorry, you got to go there to buy them, no catalog… no web site).

There are plenty of other craft fairs and roadside vendors as well. I’ve heard a lot of nice things about the West Kauai Craft Fair in Waimea, but since it is a one day a week affair, we’ve never really had a chance to visit it.

Last but not least, there are lots of places that feature locally-themed art, from photos and lithographs ($25-50), to giclee reproductions (a highly detailed inkjet printing process) of original artwork, and finally original oils, acrylics or watercolors.

Perhaps the best known artist of Hawaii might be Wyland. He’s produced a number of aquatic-themed murals throughout the world, and operates a couple of galleries on Kauai. I don’t know if it’s a fair comparison or not, but given the availability of Wyland’s work and the different formats, he might be likened to Thomas Kincaid. And I dare say that he has similar legions of both fans and detractors.

Kapa’a is home to my favorite two galleries, Aloha Images and Kela’s Glass. I’m particularly fond of Aloha Images for a number of reasons, first and foremost they are a no nonsense gallery that treats visitors with outstanding courtesy and a total absence of high pressure sales pitches. The first time we wandered in, we chatted with the owner, Ray Charron for almost 30 minutes, learning about giclees and the various artists. The next trip, we stopped by again, a visit that took an hour and resulted in our first investments in original art. If you’re on a budget, they also have some lithographs for a very modest price. Kela’s Glass is also a favorite of mine, and yes my credit card has been used their. Glass art never ceases to amaze me, perhaps more than any other medium.

I also have a fondness for the Koa Store because wood is at least one medium that I have some clue about how to work. Koa is a beautiful hardwood, that is becoming all too rare (although thankfully, not yet endangered). They have both finished pieces ranging from $10 bookmarks to gorgeous pieces of furniture for much more. What’s cool about them, is that they also sell unfinished raw lumber… I couldn’t resist buying one piece that will become (I hope) a family heirloom stool years from now.

So there you have it, you can spend anywhere from a couple bucks all the way up to a few thousand dollars and come up with a treasure that will remind you of a place that to me is incredibly wonderful. That is in no way intended to be an all-inclusive list. It doesn’t make any difference what you buy, or how much you spend on it. But what you should do is at least make sure that your purchase has some originality and uniqueness. Leave the "3 for $10" t-shirt buys to the others!

If there is a pervasive theme in our travels it’s a desire to avoid the chains and standard stuff that we can easily get back at home. So Banana Joe’s is our kind of place!

If you’re driving up from Lihue on the Kuhio Highway, you’ll find them on the left side of the road (away from the sea) just past Kilauea, well before you get to Princeville. Conversely, it makes a great place to stop for a tasty fruit treat after some snorkeling at Tunnels or just lazing on the beach at Hanalei.

You’ll have two motivations for making the stop. The first is the immediate sensory gratification achieved through a fresh fruit smoothie or frostie. The primary difference is how cold and thick they are. The frosties aren’t super thick, but you’ll still need a spoon to enjoy them. They are all made with fresh fruit with little or no added sweeteners (a true plus!). They have a number of different flavor combos. I had a banana/mango smoothie, while Sue chilled out with her pineapple frostie. And forget about rushing in, grabbing your drink and taking it back to the car, savor it in the little bamboo hut beside the fruit stand.

As if the smoothies and frosties aren’t enough, stop by Banana Joe’s for some fresh local fruit. One way of gauging the "localness" of the stuff is simply by the differing availability of various fruits. Some stuff just isn’t always available, especially since they grow much of their own fruit.

Intrigued as I was by the various signs and vendors around the island selling lychee, I had to give them a try and bought a pound of lychee that became my favorite snack back at the condo for the remainder of our visit. Let me see, how to describe lychee? It’s a roundish fruit that’s a little smaller than a golf ball, with a peeling that reminds me a little of that found on avocados. You work the peeling off and you’ll have the interior fruit that makes me think of a cross between a grape and a watermelon (now there’s a hybrid worth pursing!). But trying to make direct comparisons is kind of difficult anyway. Suffice to say that you pop the fruit in your mouth and then let the juice just bathe your tongue. But one big caveat, don’t bite down too hard! You’ll encounter a pea-sized seed in the middle that might help your dentist upgrade his next vehicle purchase if you’re not careful. I just kind of rolled the thing around and spit out the seed (where appropriate of course) once I’d consumed all of the fruit.

Here’s a brief list of some of the other types of fruit that I can remember as well; papaya, mango, pineapple (from Dole), kumquats, starfruit, breadfruit, passionfruit, oh yeah… and bananas (at least three different kinds that I saw).

So stop by for a treat, or make a special trip there just for the produce, either way you won’t regret it.

You can look up their location at 5-2719 Kuhio Hwy, Kilauea, HI 96754. Or if you want to call ahead for their hours, the number is 808-828-1092

I really hate it when people ask "what is your favorite _______?"

Chances are that my answer will vary from day to day, based on the previous day's experience or how well I slept last night. Favorite song? Today it's "We Won't Get Fooled Again" by The Who (Keith Moon's drum work was beyond amazing!) But a random pick by my iPod or 15 second blurb on NPR might create another ear tick in my head for something by Jimmy Buffet or Carole King. Does that make me fickle? I hope not.

So with that nod to baby boomer nostalgia finished, I will say that for the past four years I have had a consistent answer for "what is your favorite/most beautiful spot on Earth?" The Kalalau Valley… hands down! I probably reminisce about the view there at least once a day… no kidding! And that is no slight to a thousand other places that I've visited and fallen in love with like the Hanalei Valley (also on Kauai), Piccadilly Circus in London, the Gateway Arch in my hometown of St. Louis, the view of Rome and the Vatican from the rooftop of the Hilton Caravaggio just to name a few. And I still have a long list of places yet to see that might (maybe) challenge Kalalau for resonance within my soul (I have high hopes for seeing Iguazu Falls in South America or the Pyramids of Egypt some day).

There are two ways to best appreciate Kalalau while getting an overall feel for its immense beauty, from the overlook above and from the sea. You can't go wrong either way, but I'd have to give the edge to the overlook. There is something about being able to look down across this fantastic valley and then out to sea where you can get a hint of the Earth's curvature. The word awesome was invented for sights such as this.

To get there, follow Waimea Canyon Drive (Highway 550) all the way to the end of the road to the Pu'u o Kila Lookout. No matter what the makeup of your group is (elderly, young, vigorous or handicapped), a simple drive to this lookout will reward everyone. There is a nice switchback ramp from the parking lot to the overlook point that makes it wheelchair accessible.

If the weather is right, you can enjoy the view for hours. If it's not right (and there is no way to predict that), then for gosh sakes, just be patient! The clouds roll in and out as if by whim.

We first saw Kalalau on an absolutely perfect day in September of 2004. The sky was crystal clear, the sea was brilliant blue and the valley was an unbelievably verdant green. I think I might have just sat there and stared for hours! Two years later, after prepping our companion couple for weeks about this fantastic place, we drove up Canyon Drive (stopping at various places to enjoy Waimea Canyon and its unique beauty) until less than half a mile from the lookout we discovered we were within clouds and mist! One of my more spectacular hypes, shot to smithereens! Thinking back, we should have just lingered there for an hour. Things might have changed (and probably would have).

This last time (in May '08) we were more patient. We already planned to do a little hiking down the Pihea Trail, as long as things were at least semi-dry, which they were. The clouds were just low and at first, any view of the huge valley below was impossible. "Just wait!", some other folks suggested. The clouds were visibly moving, so we tarried a while. Sure enough, they moved out to sea and Kalalau was laid before us in all her green glory!

The Pihea Trail is what I'd call a good compromise hiking trail. For the idle strollers that prefer something more akin to a shopping mall degree of difficulty, it's easy enough that they might stumble through the first quarter mile or so of this 1 mile trek to the overlook on the other side of the valley, before saying "okay… it's beautiful, but I'd rather wait in the car." The more committed hikers can press on, with what is probably an easy to moderate degree of difficulty. While there are a couple of places that will have you walking across a little bog or two on a boardwalk, there are others where you'll find yourself grabbing for a tree root to pull you up a short rise. Take note of the tree root, chances are that it's practically polished by thousands of other people that have grabbed it in the very same place.

It's one mile out to the opposite overlook (reachable only on foot), and one mile back. And if you have more time and more desire for adventure, there is a branch off that will take you another 3 or 4 miles too.

Now, for the serious hikers and campers, there are the various segments that reach the valley from Ha'ena State Park at the northwest end of Kuhio Highway at Ke'e Beach (another mystical place that I like. Here, you can take the Kalalau Trail for a vigorous 2 mile introductory day trip, or a full bore exploration of its 11 mile length that will take you a full day just to get to the end of the trail at Kalalau Beach (no road here, only trail or boat access). If you're going to do that, be prepared with good hiking shoes, food, water and camping gear. You won't make it in and out without spending the night! Oh, and if you're going to do that, get a permit from the Hawaii State Parks office. The cost is $10 per person, per night.

This is the Na Pali coast in all of its glory and contradictions. You can motor to a spectacular and very accessible overlook, or you can shoulder up the back pack and do some serious hiking. We saw some hikers from our snorkeling boat, and trust me, it doesn't look easy.

There's considerable anecdotal evidence that a number of people make their homes in the Kalalau. Be aware that they aren't supposed to be there, so the likelihood of you being a welcome visitor should you stray far enough from the trail to encounter them is about as remote as the location itself. Just stay to the trail, respect the land and the sea and you'll be rewarded!

Trust me, as far as I'm concerned, this is the most beautiful place on Earth... at least the most beautiful place that I've been to so far, as of May 2008... wink, wink.

Like so many natural seaside wonders, approach Queen’s Bath with a healthy dose of respect for the waves. If you’re here in the summer, it’s a placid pool of crystalline clear water nestled into the lava shelf. By winter however, it might not even look like a pool, and you probably have no business coming off the bottom of the trail going down to the see from the Kapiolani Road set of parking places (there aren’t enough places to call it a parking lot). I’m not exaggerating, when first we tried to find this little jewel, we encountered a hand written sign by the trail just before the final descent to the shore that basically said "proceed no further unless you want to cheat death!"

That’s a little harsh, but one month after that visit, a couple from our hometown were swept off the rocks by a large wave leaving their young son an orphan.
Okay… are you scared yet? You needn’t be afraid, just as long as you are careful and visit Queen’s Bath during the calmer months of summer. If the surf is pounding away, be afraid.. be very afraid. This is the north shore of Kauai, when world class surfing waves are pounding things up at nearby Hanalei, Tunnels and Ke’e Beaches.

So, we were there in late May and as you can see by the photos, the sea was behaving itself and sunbathers of all ages were having a lovely time. There were even a couple snorkelers, although (again as the photos would suggest) the question might be why bother? You can see all the way to the bottom from up high on the rocks anyway. Maybe they were just learning how to snorkel, which in this case, Queen’s Bath would be a perfect place to learn.

If you do a web search for other photos of Queen’s Bath, chances are each set will probably look different; with the sea being close at hand in some and maybe 20 yards away in others. The bath is basically a low spot in the rocks that collects sea water from the waves and rain water from the surrounding lava shelf. That means you have a marvelously large solar-powered hot tub at your disposal (you and a couple dozen friends).

To get there take Highway 56 to Princeville. Turn right on Ka Haku Road. Turn right on Punahele and right again on Kapiolani. There is a parking area that might accommodate 8 or 10 cars. Be polite, you’re amid some rather pricey (hey, it’s Princeville after all) real estate. Once look for the little sign pointing to the trail and then follow it down along a stream. Even if you’re hear during the high surf winter months, I wouldn’t hesitate to walk down the trail. It’s a nice dirt path that’s very forgiving to almost all kinds of footwear.

Once you get to the final step down area, pause and case the joint. If you’re here in January, it’s very possible that the County of Kauai has posted a closure sign or two by this point. Even at the height of the of the safe summer season, take note of the waves. The best way to keep your vacation from becoming a news item is to just keep an eye on the waves. It’s as simple as that.
But trust me, Queen’s Bath is a jewel worth trying to find
.
Once you scramble down that last few yards of the trail, you’ll find yourself on the lava shelf. It’s a very, very cool place! Kids will have a blast climbing along the rocks that no ATV owner would be dumb enough to challenge.
Turn left, it’s about 300 yards or so down the lava and you’ll likely be right on top of the bath before you even notice it. Beyond the previously expressed cautionary instructions, I might impose two strong suggestions for you. Bring your swimming suits and a lunch, or bring your camera. Better yet, bring the food, the suits the camera. It’s warm and the surf outside the bath is cool to watch.

You can trek on past the bath, there are a couple other smaller pools to see… sometimes… after all these pools are subject to the whims of the sea. Sometimes they might be little coves and sometimes they might be little more than a wet low spot between the boulders.

Just remember, you’re walking, crawling and climbing around lava rocks. They may be large, but they have the texture of rough sandpaper, so don’t go dancing around. Stay out of the surf, I can’t say that enough. If a wave catches you, one of three things is likely to happen. You’ll get wet and giggle. Or you’ll get slammed against a lava boulder, knocked silly and come to with the worst skin exfoliation treatment you’ve ever encountered; or you’ll get washed off to the Aleutian Islands without a cruise ship.

But if you’re aware of your surroundings, if you have respect for the power of the Pacific Ocean, you will have found one of the best picnic spots in the world.

Back in the 80’s, the soda industry and other food producers began a switch from using cane sugar to corn-base fructose. The result was more control on the costs of production, the beginning of an upward trend in worldwide occurrences of Type II diabetes… and the near death of the Hawaii sugar can industry. Emphasize near death, because thankfully the cane industry did not completely die off.

Fast forward about 20 years or so. The corn segment of agribusiness is as enthralled with the idea of powering your car down the highway as much as it wants to abet your growing waistline. And guess what? Basic sugar from sugar cane and sugar beets isn’t such a bad thing any more. Thankfully, the folks that run Gay & Robinson, Inc. managed to keep things running at the last remaining sugar mill on Kauai for what is becoming a resurgence of the sweet stuff! And guess what? Sugar cane is a far more efficient source for ethanol than the stuff they grow in Iowa and the Midwest. Take that Big Corn!

This wasn’t suppose to be a polemic, so please allow me a moment to take a deep breath and get back to one of the more unexpectedly pleasant diversions of our vacation.

You can’t help but notice the mill as you drive the Kaumaulii Highway between Hanapepe and Waimea. It sits in the middle of some serious red dirt, and it will never win awards for the beauty of its architecture. But guess what? They are running the thing 17 hours a day and its business outlook is better than its been for over 30 years. Even without the obvious economic benefit there is just the psychological bond that the island has with the sugar industry (kind of like Iowa and corn, just to name one).

I didn’t expect to get an economic education when we turned down Kaumakani Avenue from the highway. What I expected to see was the remnants of a little company town, houses built for the sugar company management, and yes they are charming; even down to the street lights. Each one well maintained, tidy and occupied by families.

The bonus came when we pulled into the parking lot by the plant/plantation office. We knew that they had discontinued the plantation tours; silly me, I just thought it was a sign of hard times, but apparently they just have too much else to concentrate on now. We hadn’t even got out of the car when a guy in a hard hat walked up and greeted us. He explained that they don’t do formal tours anymore, but he was just about to get the mill grinding again after a shutdown caused by a drowsy mill operator late the previous night. He said to stick around, and once things were running again, he’d come back and show us around.

He was so nice and so insistent that we couldn’t have refused, even had we want to. So we watched the crane rearrange the piles of harvested cane, while the foreman drove around to the back. You’d think there wouldn’t be a lot to see, but watching the big claw crane was fun. Trouble was though, after a 45 minute wait, he hadn’t returned. Maybe there was a slight glitch that still needed to be addressed, or maybe he made the mistake of mentioning to his boss that he had a couple tourists that he was going to show around. In any case, we decided that the conversation and parking lot discussion we’d received had made the stop more than worthwhile and that maybe we should be getting on our way. There wasn’t anyone else (that wasn’t operating a large piece of machinery or otherwise busy) that we could make our excuses to, so we just had to kind of slip away. I hope he wasn’t too disappointed!

So here’s the bottom line. If you want to see an operating sugar mill, just follow the road off the main highway, you can’t miss it. Even if you don’t leave your car, it’s worth the drive down there. The company-town type houses are cool, and the workers don’t seem to mind as long as you don’t park in their way. If you’re going to get out of the car though, I might mention one thing. It’s windy and dry around the mill, and the dirt is serious Kauai Red. So you might not want to wear white pants or light colored clothes. If you’re friendly and polite, and have the time, you might… just might… get an offer to see the mill in operation. If that’s the case, I hope you have more time than we did. But the hour that we spent hanging around in the office parking lot made it yet another little diversion to remember.

That’s what I like about travelling with a non-rigid itinerary!

Are you like me, in that you prefer to start your day with a large, cold soda instead of a hot cup of coffee? Do you wander into a convenience store on a frequent basis to get your next carbonation fix, and find yourself gazing longingly at the donuts or the Hostess cupcakes? If so, I have one word for you… manapua!

Something tells me that this might be the only review on the site that suggests a stop at 7-11 for breakfast or a snack. Thankfully, I can get past my bias against prepackaged stuff from mega-corporate chain stores because Hawaiian 7-11s are the only places that I can find manapua.

The best way that I can describe the manapua is that it is a flavorful dollop of sweet pork, curried chicken, sweet potato or barbecued beef, surrounded by bread dough and then steamed (or baked in some instances. It’s a treat that has both Chinese and Hawaiian roots (no pun intended with regard to the sweet potato).

Since the bread around a pork manapua is going to look pretty much like that that encases a sweet potato filling, the dough is usually colored with food dye. That makes it a lot easier to pick and choose what you want (imagine the unpleasantness that might arise should you bite into a sweet potato manapua when you’re expecting a curried chicken for example. And yes, they’ll have a little sign explaining what color relates to which flavor.

For breakfast, I favor the sweet potato one (it’s purple), but for that light lunch or quick snack I’d recommend the curried chicken (yellow) or sweet pork (white).

I did however find a few recipes for them on the web, the best I've found is the Hawaiian Pork Manapua from Zorba Paster, a serious advocate of healthy diet, and a regular fixture on NPR. Here's the link to the printable version, which also gives you the all the dietary information as well.

And if you haven’t figured out already, given that this is something you’ll find at the counter in 7-11, manapuas are cheap, less than $2! I’m told that there are other places that you can find manapua besides those owned by a Dallas-based convenience store chain, but I apparently missed them.

You can also find a few other dim sum and char sui in the convenience stores as well. That’s a little more hit and miss flavor-wise. But I love those manapuas!

I'm not sure what it is about Kauai that steers me further from couch potato syndrome than any other place. We've been snorkeling every time we've visited the island; taken surfing lessons (twice, and didn't have the time on the third trip); and we've scored a zipline adventure, not to mention enjoying a number of trails.

And there are still plenty of things on my to do list for the island, kayaking, longer trails, another zip, more snorkeling and some more serious surfing. That last notation comes as a result of a conversation with the guy at the Keolia Country Store. He politely suggested (almost obliquely suggested) that we hadn't really had much more than a taste of surfing on our previous visits.

Let me tell you about those first lessons. In 2004 we happened on to Mitch and the gang with Hawaiian Surfing Adventures, at they're place of business... essentially a campsite in the park by Hanalei Bay. I confess, I didn't have a great desire to surf. But Mitch offered to drop the price by $5 for each of us, if all four of us participated, so I was basically brow beaten into it. Like I had a choice.

Okay... I had a lot of fun. You can probably find a picture of our instructor, Freddie, if you look up gnarly fifty-something surfer in the dictionary. This was a guy that has been in the sun for that last 40 years, at least. Basically, he gave us 30 minutes of land-based instruction, then led us out to the water. Working with each of us one on one, he'd tell us when to get ready and then push us off at the right time. End result, all four of us got up on our boards at one time or another and had a blast.

In 2006, we followed the recommendation of one of the concierge staff at Kauai Beach Villas and called up her friend Reid, who was just getting started. Reid could not have been further in appearance from Freddie. Whereas Freddie belied every one of his years on the planet (while still moving like a 20 year old), Reid was young, good looking and had the female half of our little quartet practially cooing over him. That's okay, his teaching style was remarkably egalitarian and very similar to Freddie's approach; get you started, push you off and watch you go.

Now it's 2008 and we're driving along the Kuhio Highway, when at Sue's behest, I turn around so she can get a photo of a tree at Keolia Beach. While she's doing that, I notice one of the more prominent local celebrities... Bethany Hamilton. If you don't recognize the name, you should. Bethany is the young lady who lost her left arm to a shark and then less than a year later won a national surfing competition. I couldn't resist approaching her, with the cornball line of "would it be terribly rude of me to ask if I could take your picture?" Her answer surprised me, rather uncomfortably, she said that she'd rather not have me take a picture of just her (as you never know how that picture might be used) however she'd allow us to photograph her with either one or both of us. Even better! Bethany has poise far beyond her years, and as for surfing ability, trust me, she's the real deal. We watched for a while as she surfed and left totally in awe.

We then went across the highway to the Keolia County Store, for some shave ice (yum!). There we discovered that the guy behind the counter also was a surfing instructor who basically posed the question "do you want to learn to surf, or do you just want to dunce around for a few hours?" I have to admit I left a little humbled.

I've yet to be humbled though by snorkeling. One reason for that though, is the knowledge that I have Snorkel Bob in my corner. There are a lot of snorkel rental places around the islands, but Snorkel Bob's is by far the best that I've seen. Whether you need a prescription lens mask or just the basics, they'll get you set up and out to the water in record time, and with minimal costs.

Then there is the zipline, a phenomenon that is growing in popularity after it's introduction in Central America. Again, we did a little research and landed on Princeville Ranch Adventures Zip N' Dip tour. Want to soar across a valley? All you have to do is buckle yourself into a harness, hook it onto a steel cable stretching from 70 to 150 yards long, and then run off the ramp. Make sure you do those steps in that precise order... harness... hook... cable... run, I take no blame for readers that miss any of those steps.

Princeville Ranch offers 8 ziplines, a suspension bridge and a cool picnic by a nice little waterfall. They also make sure that you have all the appropriate safety equipment, along with plenty of conversation and banter as you walk from one zip to the other.

You would think that snapping a picture or two while zipping across the valley would be easy, but nope. It's a little tricky as you quickly discover how easily distracted you can get by the beauty of the valley below.

2008 had more serious walking for us. We walked across the rim of the Kalalau Valley and scrambled across the rocks to Queen’s Bath. But we did take a snorkel cruise to the Na Pali coast and all three of those outings were good enough for their own reviews. So just keep in mind, sunning on the beach is fine, but trying new adventures is even better. Mahalo!

The last day of vacation on Kauai always presents something of a challenge. You have to check out of your condo or hotel room well before noon, but then your flight home is often not scheduled to board until 9:00 or 10:00 at night. What to do… what to do?

A lot of places will offer the use of a hospitality room for that pre-flight shower and change of clothes (at Kauai Beach Villas for example, that's a free perk, although I've heard that some places will tack on an nominal fee). So that takes care of the basics, but what do you do with your time? Give the island one more whirlwind tour and maybe you'll find something that will give you ideas for your next visit!

Of course, it helps if you have transportation. If you didn't rent a car, this might just be the best time to rent one for the day (or bicycles, or motorcycles or motor scooters). Our first last day, pre-flight road tour included our first visit to Kilauea Lighthouse, a diversion that ironically enough was independently taken by our guests on our second visit (honest guys, we saw it first!). From there we just drove along the highway stopping anywhere the beach looked attractive. We made a lot of stops! Then we finished with dinner at Keoki's Paradise in Poipu Beach, less than 40 minutes from the airport. Keoki's is the kind of place that if you found it on the mainland, you'd probably say "what a lovely island feel it has!" In Poipu, with "island feel" all around you, it might seem just a little over the top. But the food is good, and if you don't have a reservation you can still get a good meal in the bar area. One Lava Flow or Mango Margarita later and, you'll find yourselves holding hands and mentally reviewing the costs of extending your vacation by another day or three.

Two years later, we prowled the galleries of Kapaa, Koloa, and Poipu and gathered enough memorable images that a month or two later translated into a couple art purchases. Here's a suggestion for novice art collectors (like us). Never buy a piece on the same day that you fall in love with it. Let the memory simmer a little. A reputable art dealer will happily jot down all the information that you need to know, and be willing to have you contact them later. Then, a week… a month… whenever you feel sufficiently moved to make a purchase (perhaps after you've won that extra little lottery jackpot) you can call or email the dealer and finalize things from afar. You don't want to carry something home in your luggage, so it's going to be shipped anyway. Chances are, the purchase you make will be even more special once you're reunited with it. The two paintings that we bought through Aloha Images certainly qualify in that regard.

This last trip was equally special. We had been to the north "end of the road" at Ke'e beach a number of times, but somehow never managed to make it all the way to the "other" end past Waimea. That can be a little intimidating for two reasons, depending upon which fork of the road you happen to take. Follow the blacktop road and you'll end up at a locked gate to an ammunition depot for the Pacific Missile Range Facility. Move along, there is nothing to see here, and I suspect that if you did see anything worthy of note, you'd have to explain yourself to some very stern young men in uniforms.

So, if you take the other fork down the dirt road, and 4.5 miles later you'll end up at Polihale State Park. Now, four and a half miles might take only less than ten minutes to traverse anywhere else on the island, but on this particular stretch of road it will take longer. Be aware, some (all?) rental car companies are less than enthusiastic about their vehicles travelling this way. So much so that if you get careless and blow a tire or break something, the costs of getting you towed out may make a serious dent in your child's college fund (I'm not kidding). But, if you're not easily scared (or just clueless like me), and are willing to be patient (like me) you can navigate down this washboard that masquerades as a road at the stately speed of say, ten or fifteen miles an hour and be treated to one of the longest stretches of beach on the island!

You don't believe me when I say washboard-like road? Consider that at one point I got bold enough to boost my speed up to thirty miles an hour. We watched as the hood of the car bounced around like nothing I've ever seen before. Thirty seconds of that were enough to slow me down for good!

But for me, Polihale is a serious destination beach! No, you shouldn't swim or surf here, that's dangerous. But the scenery is unforgetable; over seven miles of sand that will take you up to the edge of the Na Pali coast. And best of all, few people! If you don't want to be bothered by someone else's choice of boom box music, this is the place. Just make sure you don't try to hide too low as the occasional four wheel drive vehicle might not see you as they careen up and down the sand.

The beauty of these last day adventures is that we always seem to find something unexpected, the discovery that a certain beach is far more attractive than the guidebooks hinted at, or that some other attraction near the one you veered off to see was even more compelling. Or maybe, you'll just find yourselves in conversation with a stranger, one might possibly be added to your list of friends! In any case, it's far, far more interesting than gluing yourself to an airport bar stool prior to an 8 hour flight.