Travelling up the West Coast of Scotland

Oban, gateway to the Isles

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Oban exists in its sheltered bay because of the sea. It is the main ferry terminus for Mull, Colonsay, Coll, Tiree and Lismore; and there are also sailings from here to Barra and South Uist in the Western Isles. Oban is also the centre for the west coast sailing scene. On West Highland Week a series of yacht races take place here. A marina on Kerrera Island across from Oban caters for them. The town also has a fishing fleet.We have been to Oban twice during the last year. The first was on a walking weekend in typical west coast weather – wet and misty. The main walk was around the island of Kerrera. With my weather nose I smelled rain and decided to explore the town with some friends instead...Read More

Oban exists in its sheltered bay because of the sea. It is the main ferry terminus for Mull, Colonsay, Coll, Tiree and Lismore; and there are also sailings from here to Barra and South Uist in the Western Isles. Oban is also the centre for the west coast sailing scene. On West Highland Week a series of yacht races take place here. A marina on Kerrera Island across from Oban caters for them. The town also has a fishing fleet.

We have been to Oban twice during the last year. The first was on a walking weekend in typical west coast weather – wet and misty. The main walk was around the island of Kerrera. With my weather nose I smelled rain and decided to explore the town with some friends instead. It turned out to be a wise decision for the walkers declared ‘never again’ when they returned wet having slipped and slithered their way around the island. One woman had fallen and cracked her head. From the island there should have been good views instead there was only grey haze from fog and drizzle.

Before the rain started we climbed Pulpit Hill. It had been a place of fire and brimstone sermons in days gone by - after that climb they deserved a blessing rather than censure! The Ministers Stone, which formed that pulpit is still there. It carries difficult to interpret inscriptions.

An indicator stone with arrows, directions and distances points to places of interest. On a clear day the islands to the west and mountains the rest of the way round will produce ooohing and aaaahing. We had a good view of Oban clustered round the bay but little else.

Within Oban the most outstanding feature is McCaig's Tower, more usually called McCaig's Folly. This is the Colosseum lookalike standing above the town. It features in many of the postcards for sale in the shops on George Street. Being gluttons for punishment we headed for it next.

Instead of the expected wonders inside we found a grassy hilltop, with the wall of the tower encircling it like a crown. Local banker, McCaig built the tower built in 1897 to provided work for local stonemasons and a lasting monument to his family. The original intent was to complete it with a large tower placed in the middle, but this, like the intended statues of McCaig's family, never happened.

These days McCaig's Tower serves three main uses. It is an ideal destination for a hard ten-minute uphill walk from the centre of the town; in front it provides a walled garden to relax; and it is a great place to take photographs of the town, sea and islands.

On this our second visit here we intended to catch a ferry across to Mull and from there by bus and boat to Iona and Staffa. Unlike our first visit the sun shone brilliantly out of a blue sky. Simply strolling along the waterfront and admiring the boats provided relaxation and enjoyment.

Oban can at times be a crowded place but the bustle adds to the atmosphere and adds to the number of eating, drinking and shopping opportunities available in the town. It is an attractive town and has a great deal to offer visitors - including a distillery!
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Member Rating 4 out of 5 on June 20, 2008

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Iona, font of Christianity

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Iona Abbey Photo - Scotland, United Kingdom

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Leaving Staffa our boat headed for the enchanting isle of Iona one mile off the coast of Mull. It has welcomed pilgrims since St Columba's arrival in 563AD. Small and windswept it contracts sharply with its neighbours in being low-lying and fertile. Its highest point, which has an Iron Age hill fort dating from 100BC, is only 331ft above sea level.Nearing the isle the abbey stands out as the most significant feature. Looming large in history its physical size is smaller. On going ashore we headed straight for a restaurant, as we were late for lunch. The isle’s 125 residents rely on the many visitors for income and run various establishments to cater for them. Afterwards we headed for the abb...Read More

Leaving Staffa our boat headed for the enchanting isle of Iona one mile off the coast of Mull. It has welcomed pilgrims since St Columba's arrival in 563AD. Small and windswept it contracts sharply with its neighbours in being low-lying and fertile. Its highest point, which has an Iron Age hill fort dating from 100BC, is only 331ft above sea level.

Nearing the isle the abbey stands out as the most significant feature. Looming large in history its physical size is smaller. On going ashore we headed straight for a restaurant, as we were late for lunch. The isle’s 125 residents rely on the many visitors for income and run various establishments to cater for them. Afterwards we headed for the abbey – a short walk away.

In 563 Saint Columba exiled with 12 companions from his native Ireland, because of an involvement in a copyright dispute, which led to a battle and many deaths, founded a Celtic monastery here. Its Church lived closely with the Jewish Law. Both men and women held authority in its monasteries.

St Columba and his companions travelled widely and converted pagan Scotland and much of northern England to Christianity. Iona's fame as a place of learning and Christian mission spread through Europe and pilgrimages flocked to it.

A series of Viking raids on the monastery began in 794. For safety in 849 Scotland and Ireland divided Columba’s relics between them and the abandoned monastery fell into ruin. During the 9th-11th centuries the cemetery became a royal burial ground. In 1549 an inventory recorded 48 Scottish, eight Norwegian and four Irish kings. None of these graves are now identifiable.

The present Benedictine abbey dates from 1203 and a convent for the Order of Benedictine Nuns five years later with Beathag daughter of Somerled, Lord of the Isles, as first prioress. The monastery and nunnery flourished until the Reformation saw the buildings demolished and all but three of the 360 carved crosses destroyed. The nuns fled to a cave on the coast at Carsaig on Mull. The 'Nun's Cave' has crosses carved into its inner walls.

Over the centuries the Abbey buildings have altered according to the demands of its monastic community. St Columba and his followers built a small monastery from wood, wattle and daub. Durable stone replaced the timber around 1200 with its transformation into a Benedictine Abbey. Many additions extended the building until the mid 16th Century.

It is the sense of history here extending all the way back to St Columba that causes such a sense of wonderment. This led to the start of restoration of the Abbey buildings by the Iona Community in 1938. This Community united craftspeople and trainee ministers to renovate the site.

Experiencing the physical renewal of the Abbey helped prepare the young ministers to achieve spiritual renewal when they returned to their inner-city parishes. The Abbey’s restoration completed in 1965 has since run as a residential centre with continued daily worship in its church.

Unlike the rest of the Abbey buildings, the nunnery remains derelict. The pink granite walls that remain, despite being ruinous, are among the best examples of a medieval nunnery left in Britain.

Today lona Abbey is a celebrated Christian centre. The Abbey and Nunnery grounds house one of the most comprehensive collections of Christian carved stones in Scotland. These range in age from 600AD to the 1600s. When St Columba died, the stone on which he rested his head as he slept formed his tombstone. A stone called 'St Columba's Pillow' thought to be this stone is in the Abbey museum.

In recent years, the Iona Cathedral Trust found the financial load of maintenance of the Abbey increasingly difficult and passed this responsibility to Historic Scotland who now manage the Abbey and preserve its fabric.
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Member Rating 5 out of 5 on June 20, 2008

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Staffa and Fingal's Cave

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Our tour left from the Ferry Terminal, Oban on Caledonian Macbrayne's MV Isle of Mull to Craignure on Mull where we joined a coach. It journeyed through scenic Glen More to Fionnphort with the driver being a non-stop fund of information. Alighting we boarded the small ferry for Staffa. As we approached the great basalt columns slanting about four degrees from west to east flanking the deep caves, which have inspired so much praise, became clearer. Sir Joseph Banks who visited in 1772 wrote:'Compared to this what are the cathedrals and palaces built by men! Mere models or playthings, imitations as his works will always be when compared to those of nature.'When Mendelssohn ...Read More

Our tour left from the Ferry Terminal, Oban on Caledonian Macbrayne's MV Isle of Mull to Craignure on Mull where we joined a coach. It journeyed through scenic Glen More to Fionnphort with the driver being a non-stop fund of information. Alighting we boarded the small ferry for Staffa.

As we approached the great basalt columns slanting about four degrees from west to east flanking the deep caves, which have inspired so much praise, became clearer. Sir Joseph Banks who visited in 1772 wrote:

'Compared to this what are the cathedrals and palaces built by men! Mere models or playthings, imitations as his works will always be when compared to those of nature.'

When Mendelssohn returned to the mainland after his visit, inspired he made for the piano to compose the theme that became The Fingal's Cave Overture. It brought further fame to the island and it became an essential visit on the cultural grand Tour of Europe

Fingal's Cave measures 230 ft deep, 60 ft high, and 50 ft wide at the entrance; Clamshell Cave 130 ft deep, 30 ft high, and 17 ft wide where the columns curve and distort. The boat hove to in front of the entrance to Fingal's Cave giving us our first view of the tightly packed rows of volcanic pillars which give it a cathedral like appearance. About 60 million years ago intense active volcanoes in the area poured out lava into the Atlantic. As the sea cooled the lava it shrank and split into hexagonal columns with a multitude of minor variations.

Topping the columns is a rough mixture of stone peppered with yellow lichen. The tall, blackish columns give way to a ring of washed-out grey marking the high tide line, below which the rock colour slides into all colours - pink, blue and green - which give a beautiful and varied effect.

Turning around, we headed round to a small jetty to land. Wary of slipping on the rocks we climbed the concrete stairway to the Causeway leading to Fingal's Cave while holding on tightly to a handrail. A cable fixed along into the cliff gave a handhold as we picked our way over the mass of giant hexagonal stepping stones to the cave. Passing people coming in the other direction called for some careful manoeuvring and sucking in of stomachs.

After 200 metres we reached the magical cavern. The narrow ledge of columns continued into the darkness of the cave. We waited and listened to see if anyone else was coming, then clung on to the rail to guide us in.

Supported by grey-black lava pillars, the roof is a jumbled mass of volcanic debris and broken columns rising to an almost perfect arch. We were in a natural cathedral complete with basaltic organ pipes. The back of the cave appeared as a stone altar. Looking back through the arched window of the cave's mouth, Iona sits emerald-like on the glistening sea. The perfect acoustics in the vault gently amplified the sound of waves gently lapping on the rocks – no wonder Mendelssohn listened entranced.
We picked my way back along the hexagonal stepping-stones and clambered up the stairway to the grassy top of the island hoping to see some puffins. Unfortunately this year they were late in appearing so the rocks were bare. On-board once again we rounded the tip of the island for one last look at Fingal's Cave and then we were on our way to Iona.

We had been fortunate as next day it rained and the wind increased. This trip is magic in good weather but best avoided in bad.
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Member Rating 5 out of 5 on June 20, 2008

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Scottish Sealife Sanctuary

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Scottish Sea Life Sanctuary Photo - Scottish Sealife Sanctuary, Oban, Scotland

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On a rainy day as we drove from Oban to the Kyle of Lochalsh we dropped into the watery world of The Scottish Sealife Sanctuary 10 miles north of Oban. Fortunately most of it is under a roof so it is possible to watch the creatures of the deep while remaining dry.The Centre nestles among the pine trees on the shores of Loch Creran - one of the most picturesque settings in Britain. Loch Creran is a unique sea loch that lies sheltered among the mountains of Argyll. Strong tides in this basin make it a dangerous environment, however its marine habitats contain many species.The loch is home to two forms of biogenic reef. A worm known as the serpulid worm builds one of the reefs, and th...Read More

On a rainy day as we drove from Oban to the Kyle of Lochalsh we dropped into the watery world of The Scottish Sealife Sanctuary 10 miles north of Oban. Fortunately most of it is under a roof so it is possible to watch the creatures of the deep while remaining dry.

The Centre nestles among the pine trees on the shores of Loch Creran - one of the most picturesque settings in Britain. Loch Creran is a unique sea loch that lies sheltered among the mountains of Argyll. Strong tides in this basin make it a dangerous environment, however its marine habitats contain many species.

The loch is home to two forms of biogenic reef. A worm known as the serpulid worm builds one of the reefs, and the other built by horse mussels grows in the shallow channels of the loch. These reefs make Loch Ceran a special conservation area.
These reefs in turn provide shelter for various other creatures. Over 70 different species, such as brittle stars, sunstars and herimit crabs live on serpulid reefs. While the horse mussel reefs provide shelter and food for green urchins, starfish, whelks and many more.

In the Sanctuary you can explore over 30 natural marine habitats containing everything from octopus to sharks. During the range of talks and feeding demonstrations the staff sometimes let you hand feed sharks and rays.

The Seal Centre rescues and cares for lost, sick or injured seal pups until they are well enough to fend for themselves. In its nursery you can see their progress. Lora a common seal born in 2007 is one of the star performers. Her favourite food is herring and she likes playing with the rescued seal pups or simply sleeping in the sun.

Seals in Scotland congregate mainly in the islands. They divide into two main types: common seals and grey seals. The main difference is that common seals are smaller. The male rarely exceeds 1.8 metres, whereas a male grey seal can grow 2.5 metres. Common seals have an attractive dog-like face with a short snout. That may be why our farm dog during my childhood in Orkney used to swim out and play with them to the delight of all. Grey seals have a long snout known as a ‘Roman Nose’.

Windows allow underwater viewing of the seals, and many other sea creatures in the aquarium. Perhaps best of all is the skate and ray pond, where you can touch these tame and elegant swimmers as they glide along.

You can also watch Canadian Otters as they dive and swim in "Otter Creek". They are out and about during the day whereas the European ones only come out at nights. Fingal born in 2002 loves rainbow trout and chicken and the attention he gets at feeding time.

There may be plenty more in the sea but the place to get close to some of the ocean's most interesting creatures is to visit here. The Centre is open from 10 am to 5 pm between March and October. Winter closing times vary.

Tariffs: Adults £9.50; Child (3-14) £7.50; Senior Citizen and Student £8.50.
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Member Rating 5 out of 5 on June 20, 2008

Scottish Sealife Sanctuary
Barcaldine
Scotland
+44 (0)1631 720386

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Eilean Donan Castle

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Eilean Donan Castle Photo - Eilean Donan Castle, Kyle of Lochalsh, Scotland

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Continuing our trip up the West Coast of Scotland we stayed two nights at Kyle of Lochalsh. A must see here is Eilean Donan Castle - perhaps the most photographed in the world. With my camera ready we made it our first port of call after booking in to our bed and breakfast establishment.The castle stands on Loch Duich eight miles from Kyle of Lochalsh near the Isle of Skye. Looks can be deceptive for the present castle is of recent vintage. That apart the castle in its various forms has stood against Vikings during the early 13th century and played a role in the Jacobite risings of the 17th and 18th centuries. This latter culminated in the castles destruction by the British Government, which...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on June 20, 2008

Eilean Donan Castle
Village of Dornie
Kyle of Lochalsh IV40 8DX
01599 555202

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