First impressions of Montevideo harbor are extremely positive. On the quay are various historical artifacts relating to the shipping that has passed through these waters, the most famous being the Graf Spee which was scuttled by its admiral during the Second World war.
Friendly, courteous harbor officials stop the traffic and allow passengers to pass round the dock area to the internet office, or administrative offices, and on to the exit gate. The Government has amassed a small art collection in a shop at the exit gate, which may be viewed or purchased. The new works of the most noted local artists are chosen for this mini-gallery.
Taking care, and using pedestrian controlled traffic signals, it is an easy stroll over the highway to a small triangle of shops, cafes, and a bureau de change. By about 10AM, street traders have set up kiosks selling trinkets that have delighted purchasers (but not always recipients of the items as gifts) for over a hundred years.
Although the area is hardly glamorous, sensible precautions ensure this small environment is safe. Since the average middle-class Uruguayan earns the equivalent of about 800-900 USD per month, conspicuous displays of wealth on the street will be unwise. In fact, our guide mentioned that, after the 2002 banking crisis which wiped out people's life savings, most locals work two or three jobs to survive - which they do with charm and good humor.
Adjacent to this market precinct is the old railway station. Since the trains were banished to a distant corner of the city and became commuter transport, this venerable edifice has been turned into a temple to meat - vegetarians need not apply- Commencing at about 10:30AM, staff begin to fire up charcoal grills and griddles in numerous small cafes and restaurants inside the old station, in preparation for lunchtime service. Feeling the heat from those grills once they are operating, it is easy to appreciate why the staff fairly glows.
Choose from a stool in a workers' cafe, or a tablecloth-covered table in a serviced restaurant, and from 1130AM eat steak, leg of lamb, sausage, occasionally pork, with fries or salad, and drink good local wine or beer served in staggeringly large bottles. The cut and size of the meat is by individual arrangement and priced by weight. (I had a thick, small steak with salad, three bottles of mineral water and two large coffees for 20USD (plus gratuity) in one of the station cafes. Restaurant prices may be higher. There is also one large fish restaurant. (In the center of town fixed price lunch menus are less than 10USD for a meal).
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In the port area, volunteer assistants in bright t-shirts hand out free maps with a tourist trail to the town center clearly marked. Leaving this port area is therefore easy if you seek the center, and even without the map you could negotiate the route by following the trail of tourist police, who stand a couple of hundred yards apart all the way to town. Although I did not feel their presence was necessary, it appears that in the parts of town that look rather seedy, unpleasant things can happen.
The easy walk to town takes about ten minutes and passes through an interesting square known as Plaza Constitucion, housing Matriz cathedral which was built by Jose de Saa y Faria in 1799, outside of which is a small flea market. In the market, shoppers browse through old things. As Uruguay has a 30% unemployment rate in the 17-30 age group, and 10% of youngsters leave annually seeking a better life elsewhere, this is mainly a mature, thoughtful society.
Along the first half of the walk to town the shops exhibit a certain lack luster sameness, but once at the cathedral square, there is an authentic local vegetable market in one of the radial streets, and the shops assume more vitality amid a respectable demeanor. This part is pedestrianized (The area is called Sarandi) and the gift shops offer quality leather goods and trinkets, ceramic souvenirs and even a small selection of jewelry and traditional clothing. A popular souvenir is the leather cup from which the locals drink their matte.
All over Montevideo I saw the locals squat in a suitable place, produce a thermos of hot water and pour it into individual leather beakers filled with matte, a local coffee-like leaf. The hot water brews the leaves which they then suck though a filtered metal straw as a mild and perfectly legal stimulant during their arduous working day. This reduces their dependence on coffee, which seems to be more of an accompaniment to meals. Best Way To Get Around: