Romantic Italian Dining

Just the other morning, looking through one of the local event newspapers, we saw an ad for this restaurant. To my question, "Has anyone tried Eat Me?" the responses were "Huh?" Excuuuuse me?" and," Go away!" Obviously, it was new to us. We thought it was probably more of a bar. The name, even though appropriate to food I guess, seemed to scream "nasty bar". We were all hungry, but the consensus was "We can drink our breakfast". We looked up the address. It was in the old Paco Paco building a few blocks away.

I, for one, was very happy to see a menu outside the door. Eat Me was a legitimate restaurant. From the outside this building looks like many other places around here. The inside is unexpected. It is full of arches, stonework, wrought iron, and dark wood. The walls have been painted beige and a subdued red. The tables and chairs are simply dressed to match. There is some artwork scattered around but the decor is the building itself. Downstairs, the bar and dining area is cozy. Upstairs it is breezy, with lots of windows and balcony seating. We opted to go up.

A perky waitress who talked a mile a minute immediately brought us menus. She explained most breakfast customers come in straight from the nightclubs, around daybreak. It was 10:00 am and we were the only ones here. The breakfast menu was typically Mexican with lots of blended fruit and blended milk drinks listed. Eggs were offered rancheros, a la Mexicana, with machaca and in omelet form just to name a few. Most dishes cost between thirty and forty pesos, around three or four US dollars. I opted for the chilaquiles tronadores. Linda ordered fruit and yogurt. The boys had beer.

While we waited, we nibbled on the teensy toasts we were served and perused the dinner menu. Spaghetti and meatballs, ravioli marinara, tagliattelle with clam sauce, we were in an Italian restaurant. The pizzas, which seem to be the main item, had silly names just like the restaurant. There was the Do, Do, Do Yourself, with a pornographic description for a choose your own toppings pizza and the Eat Me Pepperoni. You can imagine what kind of pizza and what kind of description.

Breakfast was served. Fruit, granola and yogurt are the same everywhere you go. Here it was presented in a big globe glass, a nice touch. The closest I can come to a description of chilaquiles is soggy nachos, or maybe crunchy tamale pie. It tastes much better than it sounds. At Eat Me, they make them extra crispy, just the way I like them. The sauce was flavorful and slightly hot. As is usual, they were topped with crumbles of cheese and sour cream. Not so common was the sprinkling of cilantro. It made what would have been pretty good chilaquiles, wonderful chilaquiles. The beer was cold. Needless to say, the boys liked their breakfasts. I can only judge by the friendly service that morning and by my breakfast. It was so good I'm planning to come back soon for pizza.

Sails said, "What a sweet waitress. Great building, solid, lots of stonework. Well isn't that a totally useless piece of frickin' toast. Great chilaquiles – crunchy, love the cilantro. I'm definitely coming back, gotta try the pornographic pizza."

sample menu
Omelet a la Mexicana............33 pesos/US$3.10
onion, tomato and chile, served with beans
Eggs and Machaca............55 pesos/US$5.25
eggs scrambled with shredded beef,
tomato, onion, and poblano peppers
served with chilaquiles and beans
Harlequin Waffle............38 pesos/US$3.60
topped with fruit sauce, melted chocolate,
apple, strawberry, banana and chocolate chips
Spinach Salad............78 pesos/US$7.40
spinach, caramelized pecans, Gorgonzola
cheese, red onion and bacon
Spaghetti and Meatballs............86 pesos/US$8.20
Eat Me Glam and Glitter Pizza............159 pesos/US$15.10
mozzarella, tomato, yellow bell pepper, basil and goat cheese
Eat Me Wild On Hey Bitches............139 pesos/US$13.25
caramelized onion, Gorgonzola cheese and mushrooms
The Puerto Viagra Pizza............174 pesos/US$16.60
Italian sausage, pepperoni, chorizo, ham and bacon

Eat Me is open daily from 6:00 am until midnight. Credit cards are not accepted.

Directions
Eat Me is on the corner of Francisco Madero and Pino Suarez. From the northeast corner of parking/plaza Lazaro Cardenas (the ocean is to the west) head north along Pino Suarez one block. The restaurant is on the left.

Ravenous and heading off to the supermarket seemed like a bad idea. It was late morning and we had lunch plans. We needed a quick and light breakfast. Funiculi seemed the perfect choice. It is close to the supermarket Gutierrez Rizo and offers sandwiches. Even though we had never actually eaten here, we had smelled great things. We decided to give it a try.

The place was very small, with just a handful of tables, and decorated like a living room - very homey. On the wall, behind the counter, was the menu. The offerings were simple, coffees, sandwiches and desserts. A board on the door listed the daily specials. There were four of them, all pasta dishes.

We stuck to our plan - coffee and sandwiches, nothing else. We had a long afternoon of eating, drinking and lounging ahead of us. Ordering racked our pre-coffee brains. We had to choose a filling and a bread. Linda had tuna salad on a bagel. I had spinach on filone and sails eventually asked for spinach on a baguette. The sandwiches, and coffees, were quickly made and delivered. Everything was good but mine was by far the best. A mound of flavorful sautéed spinach and a thin slice of a hard tangy cheese between two slices of chewy and slightly sour bread with sliced tomatoes on the side, it was incredible. Sails, who hadn't wanted to eat, tried it and immediately ordered something similar. The coffee was good and perked us right up.

The whole time we were there, we were the only customers. At one point, a very animated, talkative Italian man came in. He asked if everything was good, gave us some suggestions for our next visit, and darted out. I assume he was the owner. Our waitress had done a fine job. We ordered everything at the counter and she immediately brought it to our table.

We asked for our bill. The prices had been about average with sandwiches running between thirty and forty-five pesos. The servings had also been of an average size. We will eat here again. I think Sails has actually sneaked back a couple of times without inviting. He's to macho to admit he likes spinach sandwiches.

Sails said, "I can't believe you ordered a spinach sandwich. Who orders a spinach sandwich? Can I have a bite? Signorina? We'll have another spinach sandwich over here please. Good coffee too."

sample menu
Espresso............15 pesos/US$1.40
Mochaccino............20 pesos/US$1.90
Veggie Baguette............40 pesos/US$3.80
Four Cheese Sandwich............35 pesos/US$3.30
Spaghetti with Shrimp............90 pesos/US$8.60

Funiculi is open Monday through Saturday from 8:00 am until 10:00 pm. Credit cards are not accepted.

Directions - Funiculi is on Lazaro Cardenas between Ignacio Vallarta and Constitucion. From the northeast corner of parking/plaza Lazaro Cardenas (the ocean is to the west) head east on Lazaro Cardenas for almost two blocks. The cafe is on the right.

Many years ago, when I lived in this part of town, I was a regular customer of La Pizza Nostra. It was comfortable; the owner was friendly; the pool table was busy; the pizza was edible and the onion soup was spectacular. When I moved those long fifteen miles, I just forgot about the place. I was in the neighborhood. It was time to try it again.

We chose to sit on the patio. It now had a roof over it. Since most of the seating is on the patio, this must make rainy season dining much more comfortable. Little changes over the years gave the place a classier and more Italian feel. The delicate metal chairs, green and white striped cushions and red-checkered tablecloths work well together. Inside, what I think of as the bar, is more seating. The decor is the same as before but two very important things are missing - the bar and the pool table. I stomped back outside to read the menu.

The menu had changed too. It still offered plenty of pasta dishes and pizza still held center stage but there were now many Italian, meat, chicken and seafood dinners added. The prices were on par with the rest of the neighborhood with pizzas running from 85 pesos for a small cheese to 235 pesos for a large extravaganza with ham, pepperoni, shrimp, bell pepper and onion. We decided to have a light dinner here and get pizzas to go. Pablo, stuck in bed, in the jungle, across the river, might need something to eat.

Our waiter, who was friendly and sweet, was a little confused about what was for here and what was to go. He understood about splitting finger food but couldn't fathom three people sharing one soup and one salad. He finally understood that we were unbalanced and very hungry. He brought us just what we asked for the way we asked for it. Not a mistake was made.

We started with the onion soup. I guess things hadn't changed so much. It was wonderful - loads of onions in a flavorful broth and covered with tangy melted cheese. We had a couple spoon fights over the cheese but no injuries. I think Sails won. Next came the bruschetta, both traditional and Pizza Nostra style. The first, topped with tomato, basil and olive oil was quite good. (Unfortunately for them, the restaurant two doors down makes it much better.) The latter was topped with cream cheese and sautéed mushrooms. Even though it didn't taste all that Italian, it was really good.

The waiter, who had been keeping a close eye on us, ran inside as soon as the bruschetta was gone and brought out our Italiana salad. It was tomatoes, mozzarella, bell peppers, olives, onions and carrots on a bed of lettuce, served with a tasty vinaigrette. It was cool, crisp and refreshing. We asked for our check. The to go pizzas came with our change. We looked at each other, opened them and started eating. The waiter looked as if he were about to cry.

The pizzas, labeled as thin crust, were anything but. We had ordered a margherita and a vegetarian. The first had plenty of cheese, paper-thin slices of onion and oregano. It was actually very good, much better than the good old days. The latter was cheese liberally topped with onion, tomato, mushrooms and bell peppers - also very good. The crust, although not thin, was decent and the sauce was good. Remembering the starving Pablo, we closed the half-empty boxes, left a good tip for the tormented waiter and headed home.

Sails said, "We hadn't eaten here in years. The onion soup is still really good and the pizza is so much better than it used to be. I still don't see where they get off calling it thin crust though."

sample menu
Bruschetta............55 pesos/US$5.25
Salmon Carpaccio............125 pesos/US$11.90
Chef's Salad............80 pesos/US$7.60
Spaghetti Aglio Olio............90 pesos/US$8.60
Fettuccine al Pesto............95 pesos/US$9.00
Mushroom Pizza............100 pesos/US$9.50
Lasagna............95 pesos/US$9.00
Chicken Florentine............165 pesos/US$15.70
Shrimp Diavola............225 pesos/US$21.50

La Pizza Nostra is open Wednesday through Monday from 4:00 pm until midnight and delivery is offered in a limited area. Visa and MasterCard are accepted.

DirectionsLa Pizza Nostra is on the corner of Olas Altas and Francisca Rodriguez. From the southwest corner of parking/plaza Lazaro Cardenas (the ocean is to the west) head south along Olas Altas three blocks. The restaurant is on the right side of the street.

La Piazzetta is another old favorite we had somehow forgotten about. The food had always been excellent. Judging by the expansion and the crowds, it still was. We were seated at one of the few remaining tables, right next to the sidewalk. Our waiter handed us our menus, politely took our drink orders and left. The crowd was a mixture of foreigners and nationals, tourists and locals.

La Piazzetta is a medium sized restaurant with almost all its seating outside on patios. The tables are elegantly set and the lighting is low. There is little decoration to speak of. None is needed. The corner it is on is busy with foot traffic. There is always something going on.

The menu is long and very Italian. There are twenty pasta dishes, twenty-five kinds of pizza, and all sorts of main dishes, soups, salads and appetizers. We didn't even look at the dessert menu. The prices are moderately high but worth every peso. Pasta dishes and single serving pizzas run about a hundred pesos (about ten US dollars). Main dishes cost between 150 and 230 pesos (roughly fifteen to just over twenty dollars).

First, we ordered starters, keeping in mind that we would be stealing each other's food. The waiter politely nodded and left, never questioning us about the next course. Years ago, the fried zucchini was my favorite here. I had to try it again. We also ordered the prosciutto wrapped melon, a caprese salad and the four-cheese pasta.

The zucchini is thinly sliced, pan-fried, and served in a vinaigrette. It is not breaded. It was just as good as I remember it being. Ripe, sweet, juicy melon and good quality prosciutto - the prosciutto e melone was incredible. The salad of tomato, fresh mozzarella, oregano and olive oil was great. I am used to it with basil; oregano was a nice change. The quality of the ingredients is what made it wonderful. The penne ai quattro formaggi, like everything else, was perfect. The sauce was rich, cheesy and tangy.

We asked for more drinks and more time. We couldn't decide which main courses sounded best and if any would really fit in our already stuffed bellies. The appetizers looked small but must have been deceiving. We all agreed. We were too full for more but it was too good to stop. We would split two dishes between the four of us. We ordered the gamberi alla diavola and the scaloppina alla contadina. The first was shrimp with garlic, onions, black olives, bacon and red peppers in a tomato sauce. The latter was beef medallions with spinach and cheese in a cream sauce. As we had expected, everything was wonderful. Once again, the portions looked small but were very filling. I can't believe it took us years to get back to La Piazzetta. It won't happen again.

Sails said, "I'd forgotten how good the food was here. When are we coming back?"

sample menu
Prosciutto e Melone............97 pesos/US$9.25
prosciutto ham with cantaloupe
Spinaci............63 pesos/US$6.00
cooked spinach marinated in
lemon and olive oil
Spaghetti Cozzolino............125 pesos/US$11.90
shrimp, squid, clams and garlic with
white wine and tomato sauce
Fettuccini Alla Paesana............95 pesos/US$9.00
ham, mushrooms and a béchamel sauce
Pizza Romana............107 pesos/US$10.20
tomato sauce, mozzarella, anchovies,
black olives, oregano
Pizza La Piazzetta. ...........112 pesos/US$10.70
tomato sauce, mozzarella, mushrooms,
pepperoni, black olives and oregano
Filetto Tricolore............181 pesos/US$17.25
beef filet in a three-pepper cream sauce
Gamberi Alla Diavola............235/US$22.40
shrimp with garlic, onions, black olives,
bacon and red pepper in a tomato sauce

La Piazzetta is open Monday through Saturday from 4:00 pm until midnight. Visa and MasterCard are accepted.

Directions - La Piazzetta is on the corner of Olas Altas and Gomez. From the southwest corner of parking/plaza Lazaro Cardenas (the ocean is to the west) head south along Olas Altas four blocks. The restaurant is on the right side of the street.

Maña Maña is rather new to town. It is a small Italian restaurant a couple of blocks from the supermarket Rizo. It is easy to miss but worth looking for.

We came to town specifically to get a spinach sandwich from the restaurant Funiculi. They were closed but right next door was another Italian place we had never tried. It was Maña Maña. We went in not knowing what to expect. We were charmed. The walls of this tiny establishment were painted a warm orange and with scenes of a busy bistro. Along one wall was painted a grand fireplace complete with blazing fire. Sitting at tables along the back were noteworthy patrons ranging from Diego and Frida with a monkey on her back to Captain Jack and Bob Marley laughing at some nasty joke. Back in the three dimensional world checkered cloths and fresh flowers adorned the little tables.

A smiling man with an Italian accent rushed over and made a point of seating us at the best of his five tables. We were the only people in the place. The menu was short but varied offering a handful of appetizers, pasta, risotto, chicken, beef and seafood dishes. The prices were cheap with main courses ranging from 60 pesos for the beef scalopina with mushrooms and raisins to 80 pesos for the frito mixto of fish, shrimp and calamari. We ordered our drinks, all non-alcoholic because the restaurant still didn't have its liquor license. The waiter/owner/sometimes cook returned shortly with them and a basket of bread, mayonnaise and chile oil, all homemade. He gave us some suggestions for dinner, which we took.

After a bit of a wait our meals were served. I had the Valdostana Aromatica de Res. It was a breaded piece of beef folded over ham and cheese and came with vegetables, rice and salad. Everything was very good. The portions were a tad small but still a bargain. Sails had the Lasagna a la Bolognese, which was served with salad and vegetables. He said it was some of the best lasagna he had tasted in town and at 65 pesos; he figured it couldn't be beat.

We asked for the bill, smiled at the prices and promised to come back. We enjoyed Maña Maña. The service was warm, the food was good, the place was comfortable and the decor was entertaining. The only possible complaint would be the temperature. We went on a cool day and it was warm inside, very comfortable. During warm weather, we imagine the place might be uncomfortably hot.

Sails said, "I think I'm gonna go sit with Captain Jack."

sample menu
Bruschetta ............45 pesos (US$4.30)
Cream of Vegetable Soup ............40 pesos (US$3.80)
Gnocchi with Octopus Bolognesa ............85 pesos (US$8.10)
Seafood Risotto ............90 pesos (US$8.60)
Chicken Scaloppina ............60 pesos (US$5.70)
Pork Loin in a Balsamic Reduction ............65 pesos (US$6.20)
Shrimp al Orange ............75 pesos (US$7.10)

Maña Maña is open Tuesday through Sunday from 1:00 pm until 10:30 pm. Credit cards are not accepted.

Directions – Maña Maña is on Lazaro Cardenas between Ignacio Vallarta and Constitucion. From the northeast corner of parking/plaza Lazaro Cardenas (the ocean is to the west) head east on Lazaro Cardenas for almost two blocks. The cafe is on the right.