Up With Romantic Dining

Located on Insurgentes, the main road through Puerto Vallarta’s Romantic Zone, the restaurant San Lucas can be difficult to spot. The entrance is on the side street, across from the easy to find Farmacia Guadalajara.

We snagged a parking place, not usually hard to do, right in front of the door. San Lucas is on the second floor. We went up. The place was empty. We couldn’t even find a waiter. The restaurant is wide open, essentially a terrace with a tile roof. There are hanging plants, simple wood and rush chairs and tables covered with colorful cloths. There are plenty of overhead fans to keep the air moving, but on hot days this is not enough.

We chose a table overlooking the street, or actually, looking through a tree toward the street. A waiter eventually appeared and was shocked to see people. He rushed over, apologized, took drink orders and left menus. He immediately returned with tostadas and a fresh salsa Mexicana which was very good. It was simple, diced tomato and onion with a sprinkling of minced chile, but refreshing.

This is a seafood restaurant and the menu reflects that. There are appetizers (assorted quesadillas, guacamole), tostadas (ceviche, marlin, shrimp, and fish), cocktails (shrimp, octopus, oyster, and mixed), soups (shrimp, and mixed seafood), and fish fillet and shrimp prepared a variety of ways. There are a few options for the seafood shy – a hamburger and chicken or beef fajitas. Vegetarians are stuck with the appetizers. Prices are ok with most fish meals costing ninety pesos and the shrimp ones a hundred and forty-five.

We knew what we wanted, we had finished our tostadas and salsa, we had argued about our choice of restaurants, and still the waiter hadn’t brought us our drinks. We looked around. We were still the only customers, I guess with good reason. One could starve in this place. Sails wandered around, stuck his head in the kitchen, went to the bathroom (he said it was very clean) and still couldn’t find him. We were discussing whether to leave when he showed, without our drinks. We ordered and reminded him about our beverages. He apologized profusely and rushed off. About twenty minutes later our food and drinks were served.

I have been coming here for about fifteen years and always order the same thing. I don’t remember ever having tried anything else. I had the shrimp soup – a chile based broth with shrimp in it, nothing else. It is a typical Mexican preparation but for some reason few businesses offer it here. San Lucas’ version is mildly hot, full of plump shrimp and incredibly good. As usual I also had an order of garlic toast – slices of baguette covered with abundant chunks of browned garlic. Yummy. Sails had the fish fillet Veracruzana. It was a large piece of mahi-mahi in a tomato based sauce with onions, olives and capers served with rice and vegetables. He was in a mood and not sharing. Later he admitted it was quite good, the fish cooked just right and the sauce nice and tangy.

We spotted the waiter lurking in a corner and asked for the bill. He came over with a cart of liqueurs, our choice, on the house. I passed. I don’t remember what flavor Sails chose but even free booze didn’t lift his spirits. We paid the bill, left a tip, which infuriated Sails even more, and left.

I have come here many times over the years. The soup is always delicious and judging by friends reactions so is most of the food. The service is rarely stellar but seldom as bad as this particular time. I highly recommend the soup.

Sails said, "We disagree on this one. Tori likes it. I don't. The food is good but the service is hit and miss. Even though this place is open air it always feels stuffy to me. The free shot after dinner does not change my opinion."

sample menu
Shrimp Quesadillas ..........................75 pesos (US$7.10)
Marlin Tostada..................................15 pesos (US$1.40)
Oyster Cocktail.................................80 pesos (US$7.60)
Shrimp Salad....................................90 pesos (US$8.60)
Seafood Soup...................................75 pesos (US$7.10)
Veracruz Fish Filet............................90 pesos (US$8.60)
Shrimp and Mushrooms.................145 pesos (US$13.80)
Beef Fajitas......................................90 pesos (US$8.60)

San Lucas is open daily from noon until 10:00 pm. Credit cards are not accepted.

Directions - San Lucas is on the corner of Insurgentes and Lazaro Cardenas. From the northeast corner of parking/plaza Lazaro Cardenas (the ocean is to the west) head east on Lazaro Cardenas for three blocks, cross Insurgentes. The restaurant is to the left on the second floor.

Machis Bar B Q is east of the street Insurgentes, in the less touristed section of Puerto Vallarta’s Romantic Zone. It is in a chalet-style (sort of) building, on the second floor. The stairwell is narrow and the only indicator that you are heading to a restaurant is a beer topped barrel way at the top. Once there the place is very inviting, with brick walls, dark wood beams, lots of tropical plants and fun décor. Inside, and on the wrap around balcony, are wooden tables and chairs. At the back is a small but busy bar. Inside fans keep things breezy.

The service is usually friendly but sometimes quite slow. Enrique, the chef/owner, is occasionally up front greeting and serving but usually is in back cooking up a storm. Most days the place is less than half full, largely with foreign regulars.

The menu isn’t long but is varied. There are a handful of sandwiches sold until five in the afternoon, a couple of appetizers, tortilla soup and a daily soup, a few salads, and less than twenty main courses, mostly steak and seafood with a couple of pork and chicken dishes. Prices are reasonable with dinners costing between seventy and a hundred and thirty pesos. At lunchtime a lot of people come here for the burgers which cost sixteen pesos and are pretty good. Despite the name, Machis Bar B Q does not specialize in barbecue. They do serve ribs, but in my opinion they are probably the least tasty thing on the menu.

I come here often, as does my mother and various friends. These are a few of our favorites.
The Appetizer – Usually, not always, a light snack will be brought to the table when you order dinner. Recently it has been mini-chimichangas stuffed with something unidentifiably wonderful and served with a sauce, always different and always delicious.
Fish and Chips – my mother’s favorite, almost everybody’s favorite. It is fat chunks of mahi-mahi in a crisp batter served with fries. I don’t know what Enrique does but these are the best in town. The battered shrimp and chips, although good, aren’t as special.
Pepito Sandwich – steak, tomato, onion, lettuce and avocado on a roll. It is simple but delicious.
Mahi-Mahi Veracruz – my favorite. It is a chunky piece of mahi-mahi cooked in a caper, olive and pepper laced tomato sauce. It is deliciously tangy and oh so satisfying.
Daniela’s Delight – mahi-mahi stuffed with crab and shrimp and wrapped in bacon. The flavors meld beautifully and the bacon gives it a smoky flavor.
Aztec Steak – a steak covered with a chipotle sauce and cheese, served with refried beans. The meat is almost always tender and the sauce is always deliciously flavorful and sort of spicy.
Cocotle Chicken – another of my favorites. It is a chicken breast in a red wine sauce with mushrooms, and bacon. Enrique has a way with sauces.
The Vegetables – most dinners come with wonderful butter-steamed chunks of vegetables. In a town where most vegetables (salsas aside) are an afterthought, or a decoration, Machi’s veggies are a delight. Always beautifully fresh and cooked perfectly.

I recommend Machis. The food is great, the surroundings pleasant, the prices reasonable, and the service never bad enough to mar the experience.

Sails said, "I eat here enough, obviously I like it. Great fish and chips, good food in general. The burgers are a great deal. The service is pretty friendly and Enrique, the owner and cook, sure knows his stuff."

sample menu
Shrimp Filled Avocado.......................65 pesos (US$6.20)
Caesar Salad....................................40 pesos (US$3.80)
Tortilla Soup.....................................38 pesos (US$3.60)
Hamburger.......................................16 pesos (US$1.50)
Rueben Sandwich.............................65 pesos (US$6.20)
Camila's Delight................................95 pesos (US$9.00)
mahi mahi covered with cheese, shrimp,
spinach and mushroom sauce
Machi's Shrimp.............................110 pesos (US$10.50)
stuffed with cheese, wrapped in bacon
and basted with BBQ sauce
served with rice, vegetables and mashed potatoes
Bar B Q Pork Ribs..........................100 pesos (US$9.50)
served with salad and shoe string fries
Chipotle Chicken...............................70 pesos (US$6.70)
served with rice and vegetables

Machis is open Monday thru Saturday from noon until 11:00 pm and Sunday from 2:00 pm until 11:00 pm. Credit cards are not accepted.

Directions
Machis is on the corner of Lazaro Cardenas and Jacarandas. From the northeast corner of parking/plaza Lazaro Cardenas (the ocean is to the west) head east on Lazaro Cardenas five blocks. The restaurant is on the right.

This was a first for us. We had never eaten at the Banana Cantina but we had heard good things about it. We went up not knowing what to expect. Downstairs, at Choco Banana, things are very casual with a banana motif. Not so upstairs, where low lighting, rich colors and nice furniture dominate.

We sat at a corner table overlooking the street. Outside things were hopping, making for an interesting view. Inside it was pretty busy too, with a mixture of tourists and expats but no nationals as far as we could tell. Joshua was our waiter. We knew him from other places around town. This was a good beginning.

The menu had a nice assortment of interesting dishes. Things like chopped jicama and avocado salad, poblano vichyssoise, Brie and papaya quesadillas, and avocado enchiladas. I guess I would call it nouveau Mexican. The prices were about average for the area with main courses running from 70 pesos for the chicken tacos to 190 pesos for the coconut shrimp.

Joshua didn't miss a beat; our ashtray was kept clean; our glasses were never empty. He delivered our dinners with a smile and a nod. Linda had the Caesar salad and of course we all tasted it. It was the best one I have tried in years. Unfortunately, it was very small. Sails had the slow roasted achiote pork sandwich. It was pretty good and pretty big. It was supposed to come with carrot and jicama slaw but instead was served with the strangest and most bland pickled onions I have ever eaten. I ordered the mushroom bruschetta and had no complaints. It was drizzled with what I believe was a balsamic vinegar reduction. Pretty tasty.

We were fat, happy and ready to go. We asked for the bill...and nothing. We tried again. Nothing. It took us twenty-five minutes to get the check. We paid and left. That one little, but long, glitch aside, I felt the service was great, the food good, the salad exceptional, the setting comfortable and the view entertaining. I’m sure I will eat here again.

Sails said, "Great Caesar salad, everything else was pretty good too. I even got to nap waiting for the bill"

sample menu
Sashimi Tuna............80 pesos/US$7.60
served with jicama slaw
Romaine and Apple Salad............75 pesos/US$7.10
served with goat cheese empanadas
Garlic Soup............65 pesos/US$6.20
with a crouton and a poached egg
Prawn Clubhouse............120 pesos/US$11.40
with bacon, roasted red pepper and chipotle mayonnaise
Chile Relleno............80 pesos/US$7.60
served with macho banana

Banana Cantina is open mid October through May, Wednesday through Sunday, from 4:00 pm until 11:00 pm. Credit cards are not accepted.

Directions - Banana Cantina is on the corner of Pulpito and Amapas. From the southwest corner (the beach is west) of the parking/plaza Lazaro Cardenas head south along Olas Altas for five blocks, turn right on Pulpito, go one block. The restaurant is on the right, on the second floor.

We stayed away from Cote Sud for a long time. Located on a very handy corner, many times we looked up. It looked pleasant; the customers seemed happy, but we had heard rumors, rumors of outrageous prices, snobbery and an angry cook. One day, passing by the entrance, we saw a menu on the wall. We looked. We were surprised, although not a budget’s best friend the prices were far from outrageous. We decided we needed desert.

The door is on the side street and not where one would expect it. We went up the stairs, the restaurant is on the second floor, and were warmly welcomed despite our t-shirt, shorts and flip flop ensembles. So far no snobbery. The place looked nice with maroon and mustard colored walls, nice but simple table settings and fun chairs. Lots of windows and balcony seating, Cote Sud is an airy, refreshing space. Almost every table has a view of the street down below.

We chose a table close to the adorably tropical little bar. We were immediately given menus and glasses of water. Our drink orders were taken and quickly delivered by the very friendly waiter. Everything on the menu sounded good, in three languages. The food offered is typical of the south of France I was told, but knowing little about said cuisine I can’t comment on its authenticity. I decided I needed an appetizer before desert and ordered that while we determined what sweet concoction to try.

After quite a wait my red pepper crostini with tapenade was served. It was pretty. Three slices of toasted French bread topped with black olive paste topped with red pepper puree, sprinkled with capers and served on a bed of lettuce. It tasted almost as good as it looked.

We ordered desert. It took a very long time to arrive. The French blackberry cheese cake looked beautiful but tasted like nothing. It was so boring. The chocolate fondant didn’t look so pretty. It tasted like heaven. We wanted more but were running late. We vowed to return.

The rumors were lies. There was no snobbery. The prices were not exorbitant. We didn’t meet the cook but he made that chocolate thing. How evil could he be? If it weren’t for the fondant I would consider Cote Sud a take it or leave it kind of place – good food, good service but nothing special. Desert made it special.


Sails said, "Oh my, that chocolate thing is incredible."

sample menu
Eggplant Terrine with Tomato Coulis............75 pesos/US$7.10
Fish Soup Provencale Style............85 pesos/US$8.10
Goat Cheese in Pastry Dough with Basil Cream............90 pesos/US$8.60
Stuffed Chicken Breast............125 pesos/US$11.90
stuffed with mozzarella and bacon,
topped with a basil cream sauce
Pork Stew with Eggplant............115 pesos/US$11.00
Prawns Flamed with Pastis............175 pesos/US$16.70

Cote Sud is open thursday thru tuesday from 5:00 pm until 11:00 pm. Happy hour is from 5:00 pm until 7:00 pm. Visa and Mastercard are accepted.

Directions - Cote Sud in on the corner of Francisca Rodriguez and Olas Altas. From the southwest corner of parking/plaza Lazaro Cardenas (the ocean is to the west) head south along Olas Altas three blocks. The restaurant is upstairs on the northeast corner of the intersection.

Near the corner of Basilio Badillo (Restaurant Row) and Insurgentes (the main street through the Romantic Zone) in Puerto Vallarta is the restaurant Majahuitas. I drive past almost every day but had never gone in. It is on the second floor, the pink and brown color scheme always catches my eye. The front has no wall, so it is easy to see in. Most times I saw no one. The place looked abandoned. Once in a great while it would be packed with happy boisterous people.

One day, walking past, we stopped to read the menu which is posted next to the usually closed door. The food listed was fancier, more varied and higher priced than we had expected, although not overpriced. There were seven appetizers, like crab enchiladas au gratin and sautéed wild mushrooms in ajillo sauce, and ten entrées including shrimp Creole and steak Tampico style. Posted also was a "special menu" which was a fixed price meal – a choice of Aztec soup or Caesar salad, a choice of mahi-mahi Bilbao, chicken Parmesan or bbq ribs and crème brulee or apple strudel – for 160 pesos. Also advertised were their hours. They are only open Friday and Saturday nights. That explains why they are usually empty. We came back that weekend.

We walked up the narrow staircase. The place looked like a cheerful Mexican mountain house with dark wood still covered in bark, a pink corrugated ceiling, adobe walls and plenty of plants. An exuberant man rushed over to greet us and led us to a table on the balcony. We were the first people here.

The waiter was very attentive and spoke French (I have no idea how well), English (quite well) and obviously Spanish. After a couple rounds of drinks we were ready to order. We waited a short while to be served. Sails had the Tampico style steak – a very tender, grilled skirt steak served with an unexciting enchilada, great sautéed onions and poblano peppers, and average refried beans and rice. I ordered the panela and tomato salad. The panela, which slightly resembles fresh mozzarella, was from El Tuito, a town in the mountains south of here famous for its cheese. It was excellent. The tomatoes were not ripe. They were still partially green but surprisingly flavorful and the vinaigrette was nice. The waiter said the tomatoes were meant to be that way. Yeah right.

We relaxed a short while, looking down at the street, watching the cars ebb and flow. I guess it’s not that entertaining but somehow hypnotic. For dessert I had the apple strudel. It was a tiny portion but really good.

The place was filling quickly. There was still an hour to go before the music would start. We were antsy and decided not to wait. Judging by the crowd I would say the music is good. We were not impressed or disappointed by Majahuitas. Maybe, someday, we will come back for the music.


Sails says, "The food was OK. We really should stay for the music."

sample menu
Cream of Pecan Soup al Kalhua............60 pesos/US$5.70
Crab Enchiladas au Gratin............60 pesos/US$5.70
Coconut Shrimp in Mango Sauce............140 pesos/US$13.30
Mahi-Mahi Filet Almondine............120 pesos/US$11.40
Chicken Breast in a Chile Cream Sauce............120 pesos/US$11.40
Creme Brulee............40 pesos/US$3.80

Majahuitas is open Friday and Saturday from 6:00 pm until 2:00 am. Credit cards are not accepted. There is live music, both days, from 10:00 pm until 2:00 am.

Directions - Majahuitas is on Basilio Badillo between Constitucion and Insurgentes. From the southwest corner of parking/plaza Lazaro Cardenas (the ocean is to the west) head south along Olas Altas for one block, go left on Basilio Badillo three and a half blocks. The restaurant is on the left.