The Invisible Champa Kingdom

An October 2006 trip to Vietnam by SeenThat Best of IgoUgo

Cham Towers EntranceMore Photos

Few remains are left of the Champa Kingdom; yet the curious traveler would recognize them hiding in modern Vietnam.

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Municipal Beach
It is impossible to take such a demanding tour of the Cham culture, without stopping from time to time for a refreshing daiquiri on the beach. Being Nha Trang home to some of the main Cham ruins in Vietnam, no place is better for that than La Louisiane Restaurant.

Location

Tran Phu Boulevard is the name of Nha Trang’s exquisite promenade; there, La Louisiane enjoys a private shore. This isn’t a secondary detail while in Vietnam. Hawkers and touts of all kinds plague this country and are irresistibly attracted to tourists; the secluded location ensures a few hours of delightful peace, especially during the deserted hours of the afternoon.

Building

La Louisiane is within an eye-catching, unobtrusive, low, wooden French colonial building. The structure features an internal swimming pool, a private stretch of beach, a pool table, beach deck chairs, beach volleyball and a mini-golf course. The interior design is spacious and tasteful, keeping a minor tone that gives the adjacent turquoise sea the honor it deserves.

Service

The service was remarkable. The professionalism and efficiency were expected of such a place; what made it special was the ability of the staff to give privacy to their guests – for some reason guests is a better term than customers while talking about La Louisiane. Except for our calls – there were no other customers there during that magic afternoon – they were practically invisible.

Menu

The place has a diverse menu; its restaurant specializes in barbeque, Vietnamese and French food, and on special daily dishes prepared by their French chef. Its bar offers cocktails, French pastries and ice creams. The prices are somewhat steep, but reasonable if the quality of the surroundings is factored in.

Few things can compare to the joy of having a daiquiri (Bacardi, sugar and lemon, 55000 Dong) while watching islands half-hidden in the misty bay of Nha Trang; and after all, isn’t the Cham culture similarly hidden within modern Vietnam? In remembrance of past events, my companion had a B-52 (Kahlua and Bailey's Cointreau, 40000 Dong); our drinks were accompanied by an awesome mint and chocolate ice-cream (9000 Dong). The skies, the sea, and the pastel-colored, misty peace unhurriedly intruding into our minds were free and priceless.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by SeenThat on April 26, 2008

Invisible KingdomBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Cham Towers Entrance
Chile and Vietnam are spaghetti shaped countries; Chile is clearly delimited by the mighty Andes, while Vietnam’s shape had been similarly influenced by the much lower Anammite Mountains, separating it from the Tai-Kadai people to the west.

During my first visit to Vietnam I comprehended another – not less dramatic – border; Vietnam is geographically divided also on the north to south axis. Roughly at the center of the country, the mountains dramatically drop to the sea creating a real barrier between the northern and southern parts. At least two times this barrier has defined political frontiers; the last was during the Vietnam-USA War; the first was when it roughly defined the northern border of the Champa Kingdom with the Dai Viet Kingdom (future Vietnam).

The Champa Kingdom reached all the way south to the Mekong Delta; the last was under tight control of the Khmer Empire. The Cham people began organizing themselves around the fourth century AC and their kingdom existed until 1832; it was preceded by an earlier kingdom called Lin Yi or Lam Ap. Following the tenth century a steady decline of the kingdom began due to the pressure of the Dai Viet and the Khmer. In 1471, Viet troops sacked the northern Cham capital of Vijaya, and in 1697 the southern principality of Panduranga became a vassal of the Vietnamese emperor. In 1832, the Vietnamese emperor Minh Mang annexed the remaining Cham territories.

Five Cities

Champa was a confederation of five cities named after historic regions in India – a result of their having been successfully converted by Buddhist missionaries from there.

Indrapura was near modern Hoi An, the city is now called Dong Duong, and the nearby My Son Valley bears the highest number of Champa ruins. Amaravati was in modern Quang Nam, Vijaya is modern Cha Ban while historical Kauthara became modern Nha Trang, the only one of these cities that retained some importance. Finally, Panduranga is now called Phan Rang. The relative importance of each city varied along time; invariably they became tourist attractions offering awesome nature views and historic sights.

History

The Cham descended from Malayo-Polynesian settlers who reached South East Asia from Borneo during the second century BC; their language belongs to the Austronesian family. Their society at this time is known as the Sa Huynh culture; the Chinese referred to it as Lam Ap or Lin Yi during the second century AD.

Champa was an important stop along the Spice’s Route which connected the Persian Gulf to southern China. The kingdom had complicated relations with the Khmer, which included intermarriages, architectonic similarities and – of course – wars. As the Khmer, the Cham were highly Indianized, and from the 4th century AD stone inscriptions in Sanskrit and their own language, which uses a unique script, can be found. King Bhadravarman (349-361AD) was the first Cham king; he reigned from My Son and established a god named Bhadresvara, who was a combination of the king’s name and that of the Shiva Hindu god.

The Champa Kingdom was at its peak from the 7th to the 10th century AD, when they controlled the trade in spices and silk between China, India, the Indonesian islands, and the Abbassid empire in Baghdad. Some of the royal and religious temples at My Son date back to this period. In 875AD, King Indravarman II founded a northern dynasty at Indrapura and adopted Mahayana Buddhism as the official religion; fifty years later they returned to classic Hinduism. Later, In 944AD, the Khmer invaded the region of Kauthara and pillaged Po Nagar, the Cham King Jaya Indravaman recovered the area in 965AD. Due to clashes with Dai Viet, the Cham abandoned Indrapura in 1000AD and relocated south to Vijaya, which was pillaged by the Dai Viet in 1044AD. Similar events characterised the next century.

The following decline of Champa roughly follows the decline of the Khmer Empire and the Raise of the Dai Viet and the Thai Sukhothai Kingdom; an interlude apeared in the form of the Cham sacking the Khmer capital in 1177AD which resulted in a subsequent conquest of Vijaya by the Khmer in 1203AD.

Later, in 1283AD, the Mongols invaded Champa and occupied Vijaya. Instead of engaging the invaders, the Cham retreated to the mountains and fought as guerrillas until the Mongols left two years later.

Che Bong Nga (1360-1390) was the last strong king of the Cham; in 1372 he almost conquered Dai Viet from the sea and successfully pillaged Thang Long (modern Hanoi, their capital). In a critical turn of history, the Dai Viet, led by the emperor Le Thanh Tong, invaded Champa in 1470 and caused the first major Cham emigration to Cambodia and Malacca.

Afterwards, what remained of Champa was the southern principality of Panduranga. In 1594, the Cham Lord Po At assisted the Sultanate of Johor's attack on Portuguese Malacca; and in 1692, the Cham Lord Po Sot rebelled against Nguyen Phuc Tran, ruler of southern Vietnam. After that, the Cham Lords kept authority over their own people but not over Vietnamese settlers in their territory. This situation was kept until 1832 when the Cham territories were finally annexed by the Vietnamese.

Until the conquest of Champa by the Vietnamese in 1471, the Cham main religion of the people was a Hinduism focused in Shiva. Afterwards, Islam – that appeared in the area in the tenth century - became the main force. By 1832, it was the main religion and nowadays the easiest way of recognizing surviving Cham communities is by their mosques, which can be found all along southern Vietnam and large parts of Cambodia.

Sites

The largest Cham ruins are nowadays at My Son, near Hoi An; sadly it was heavily damaged by US bombing during the Vietnam-USA War. Po Nagar and Poklongarai Towers (near Nha Trang) are additional sites featuring Cham Towers.

The largest collection of Cham sculpture is in the Danang Museum of Cham Sculpture, but additional items can be found in the Museum of Fine Arts and Museum of History in Hanoi and the museums of the same name in Ho Chi Minh City.

This journal focuses on their cities and centers in modern Vietnam.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by SeenThat on April 25, 2008
Cham Towers Entrance
The Champa city of Kauthara is modern Nha Trang, the only one of these cities that retained some importance, and from where two important Champa Towers sites can be visited.

The city is surrounded on three sides by mountains; a large island is on the fourth side, in front of the municipal beach. Despite being a solid part of the Vietnamese soil, the small islets half hidden under the eternal mist in front of its coasts, create the illusion that Nha Trang is just another one of them. A blue sea, a wide, sandy beach and lazy daiquiris welcome the many visitors to this pastel version of Eden.

History

The name Nha Trang is a Vietnamese
misspelling of Ya Trang, the Cham name for the Cai River at the northern side of the town. The city was annexed by the Vietnamese in 1653 and later became part of Cochinchina and South Vietnam until it was liberated in 1975.

Modern Landmarks

The municipal beach is the main attraction in town, and the biggest one as well, since it is six-kilometers long; next to it is Tran Phu Street, a beautiful promenade and a spacious avenue that creates a luxurious feeling of space and joy.

The Long Son Pagoda in the northwest of town hosts a huge White Buddha which is the town’s major landmark; it symbolizes the Buddhists struggle against the repressive Diem regime. Around its base are carved images of the monks and nuns that set fire to themselves in protest.

The Pasteur Institute at the north end of Tran Phu, houses the Alexandre Yersin Museum (Mon–Sat 8–11am & 2–4.30pm; around two dollars), a Swiss-French scientist who settled in Nha Trang in 1893, discovered the plague bacillus and founded the institute.

Near the town are other beach resorts, still in early stages of development; it is possible to reach them independently and then rejoin the open-tours path later.

Islands and Water Sports

All the tourism operators offer day-trips to one of the nearby islands, for six to seven dollars per person; the closest island to the Cau Da Wharf is Hon Mieu. The Hon Mun Marine Protected Area is one of four first such areas in the world recognized by IUCN. It is served by a local ferry departing from there (one dollar) and docking at a fishing village called Tri Nguyen. The Bamboo Island is operated as a resort by the Sofitel Vinpearl Group.

Nha Trang is the best place to dive in Vietnam; the main operators are Octopus Diving Club, 62 Tran Phu and Rainbow Divers, 52 Tran Phu, both are placed along the promenade.

Food

Being a major fishing port, excellent and fresh seafood is available at most restaurants. One of the most remarkable establishments is the Louisiane Café, opposite the airport on southern Tran Phu; it has a private stretch of beach so that hawkers cannot approach the clients, an inner swimming pool and a French colonial style. Its relatively high prices result in its offering the rarest commodity in Vietnam: quiet. A daiquiri after a healthy lunch will buy the whole place for a couple of hours; their mint chocolate ice-cream is excellent.

The dragon fruit (thanh long) is native of the Nha Trang area: its exterior is covered with what looks as pink, thick leaves with green edges and it has a white interior peppered with black dots. The size of a small pineapple, it is usually consumed as a shake.

Accommodation

Nha Trang has many guesthouses and hotels; most of them are around Biet Thu and the southern end of Tran Phu, near the airport. However, looking around is worthwhile; My Long Hotel at 26A Nguyen Thien Thuat close to An Dong is an excellent option. It is in an extremely quiet location, a few blocks away from the promenade. For five dollars a night, they offer an extra-spacious single room with an attached private bathroom and a very pleasant ambience.

Po Nagar Towers

The Po Nagar Cham towers are two kilometers to the north of the town (just after the bridge) and were built between the 7th and 12th centuries on a site that had been used for Hindu worship as early as the second century. The largest and most impressive of the towers is the 23-metre-high northern tower, built in 817 and dedicated to Yang Ino Po Nagar, Goddess Mother of the Kingdom and a manifestation of Uma, Shiva's consort.

Poklongarai Towers

South of Nha Trang, where Road #9 meets Road #20, are the Poklongarai Towers (5000D entrance fee), a structure from the Champa Kingdom dating back to Angkor days. If arriving from Cambodia after a visit to Angkor Wat, the similitude among them would be immediately recognized. The most obvious shared characteristic is the use of fake arches, though the angular shapes of Angkor are replaced here with soft rounded shapes and the black stones of the former by pink stones.

Other Cham Sites

The next location to the north, according to the open-tour buses map, is Hoi An; near it is My Son the main site of Cham ruins in the whole country. Hoi An is better reached using the night bus, since there are no major sights on the way there. If advancing directly to Hue, the day bus is better due to the spectacular views at the geographical limit between the southern and northern parts of the country.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by SeenThat on April 25, 2008

My Son and Hoi AnBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Restored Cham Structure
A World Cultural Heritage Site by itself, Hoi An is the closest significant town to My Son; both are south of Danang and can be combined with a visit to the DMZ.

Hoi An is an enthralling river port, its golden age contemporary to that of Macau; fortunately for modern travelers, it was spared the destruction of the French and American wars. Its humble size skipped the growing boom of other cities in the country after the wars and thus it is an excellent place to catch an experience of classical Vietnamese culture. The town displays an astonishing collection of intact structures and streets, including the famous Japanese Bridge. The bridge connected downtown with the Japanese settlement across the river, it hosts the only known Buddhist pagoda on a bridge.

In the 16th and 17th centuries, Chinese, Japanese, Dutch and Indians settled down in the town, which was known in Vietnamese as Hai Pho (Seaside Town). The town is thus an open museum, and walking along its narrow streets is a feast to all the lovers of oriental architecture. There are more than 850 structures declared as historical and a thorough description will need a book.

The main points of interests are the many Chinese structures and temples (interestingly these are usually better preserved than in China itself as most historical structures in this last country have suffered unrecoverable damages from the Communist revolution. The different Chinese communities living in the town have each a colorful Assembly Hall, which can be entered with the right ticket. Wooden merchants’ houses and family chapels enrich the path among the temples. It is recommended to dedicate a whole day to such a tour and to do it by foot as most locations are around the Tran Phu Road, a bicycle would be a cumbersome asset under the circumstances.

However, human settlement in the area pre-dates Hoi An; in the 1st Century AC the estuary of the Thu Bon River hosted the largest harbor in South East Asia. It belonged to the Cham people and was named Lam Ap Pho. More important, My Son is nearby and can be reached easily from town, all the travel agencies offer tours there.

My Son is a Hindu temple complex dedicated to Shiva and located in the village of Duy Phu, 69km southwest of Da Nang and just south of Hoi An, it dates back to the 4th century BC, the very beginning of the Cham society.

Located within a two kilometers wide valley and surrounded by two mountain ranges, My Son features more than seventy surviving temples which included ceremonial and burial sites designed mainly in Hindu styles; moreover, many of the stele scriptures there are in Pali. One of them mentions temples dating back to the 4th century AC that had not survived. As such, the site was listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

Most of the surviving temples and stupas date back to the period between the 7th and 10th centuries AC, when the Champa Kingdom was at its peak, mainly due to its control of the maritime Spice’s Route. These temples were constructed of bricks and pink stones, in contrast to the original ones in wood; their style resemble very much the one used by the Khmer civilization in Angkor.

The stone temple is unique in the complex – is not standing anymore – and marks apparently the site of the original 4th century BC temple. The Khmer and the Cham used fake arches – they didn’t know how to build real ones – of a peculiar triangular shape, but each was faithful to the building materials of their respective areas. Chap temples are round and reddish, while Khmer ones are black and singular. The bricks used for the Cham temples were glued together using a tree resin, in a method which is nowadays lost.

The My Son complex was discovered by modern archaeologists in 1885, for the following twenty years, French archaeologists made most of the research work. My Son turned out being the most comprehensive Cham site in Vietnam, featuring structures constructed in all seven known Cham construction styles. All of them are heavily influenced by Hindu philosophies and styles, including conical stupas representing the Meru Mountain; most temples refer to Shiva as a supreme god. This type of monotheistic Hinduism may have eased the later Cham people conversion to Islam. Mahayana Buddhist temples in the site date back to the 10th century, when it was for a short while the official religion.

Since 1937 restoration works are done on a regularly basis. Heavy damage was caused by American bombings in 1969; the area still contains American landmines from that period.

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by SeenThat on April 26, 2008
Chau Doc's Landing Site
Sitting on the Mekong Delta on the Vietnamese side of the Vietnam-Cambodia border, Chau Doc is one of the most intriguing locations in Vietnam. The town is located on the west bank of the Hau River, a branch of the Mekong, at its junction with the Chau Doc River.

Historically the place was part of the shorted lived Kingdom of Funan, which was a kind of political barrier between the Cham and Khmer kingdoms. Along time Chau Doc was also part of the Khmer and Cham kingdoms, and eventually was annexed by the Vietnamese. The most visible result of this complex history is its varied population, which includes Vietnamese, Chinese, Khmer and Cham people. Vietnamese and China practice mainly Mahayana Buddhism, while the Khmer here prefer Theravada Buddhism and the Cham are Sunni Muslims; the last are renowned by their fabric industry .

Getting To Chau Doc from Cambodia

The best place to begin the trip from is Phnom Penh; however, it is possible to reach Highway 1 from Kampot and then advance to the border independently. From Phnom Penh there are two options: one is through the road that connects the city with Saigon, and the second is through the Mekong River.

Both options are offered by the Capitol Agency in Phnom Penh. The land way is faster, but the river trip is fabulous.

A word of warning: the packages through the Mekong vary in price; that happens because they are different despite the sellers’ claims. The more expensive the trip, the longer the way along the river; the cheap packages travel by land most of the way, until a pier close to the border is reached.

The immigration process through the river is more complicated than overland; however, a reward waits at the Vietnamese side. There, next to the immigrations, stalls sell the extraordinary Vietnamese coffee and cheerily announce: Good Morning, Vietnam!

Reaching Saigon

If traveling eastwards, the next stop is Ho Chi Minh City, minivans leave from Chau Doc’s main road; the trip costs 50000 Dong. Chau Doc is 250 km west of Saigon, and that means a six-hour trip.

Accommodations

Like many off-side locations, Chau Doc offers some incredibly good accommodations. Hang Chau II Hotel, near the market area, charges eight dollars per night for a homey, comfortable room with excellent furniture, a private bathroom with the best hot water I found in Vietnam and a television set which introduced me to the sounds of the local language. The hotel changes money at a fair rate and gives a courtesy pack of local "555" cigarettes (accordingly, the main beer in the country is called "333" or "ba-ba-ba" in Vietnamese). I do not smoke, but it helped me later to soften moto-taxi drivers while searching for hotels in other towns.

Food

All the Mekong Delta area excels in its fruits; the locals gather in the evening to drink extraordinary shakes. The Night Market justified the trip to Vietnam after the first shake - the first of the four I drank in the span of a few minutes. Jack fruit, durian, rose apple, coconut, papaya, guavas, mangos and many other fruits waiting to be named were available there, fresh and sweet. On the culinary angle, the town is famous for its fermented fish sauces (nuoc mam) and mainly mam tai, a kind of anchovy.

Cyclos

Another point of interest in the town are the very old-fashioned "cyclos" – tricycle taxis - maybe the last of their type in the country.

Sam Mountain

The biggest attraction nearby, is the Sam Mountain, five kilometers to the southwest, which rises spectacularly from a sea of paddy-fields; the place is a worshipping site.

Despite its name Nui Sam (Sam Mountain), "hill" would be a more accurate term, since it reaches just 230m above the river level. From the top are views of the Mekong Delta, Chau Doc and Cambodia. The Sam Mount Lady Ceremony, also known as the festival of Ba Chua Xu or the Via Ba Ceremony, is held there every year between April and June. Several sites surround the mountain: the Tay An Pagoda, the Ba Chua Xu Shrine, the Hang Pagoda, and the Tomb of Thoai Ngoc Hau.

Ba Chua Xu Temple

The Ba Chua Xu Temple is at the foot of the Sam Mountain; it was constructed according to the Chinese character "quoc," with four square roofs covered with blue pile-shaped tiles. It was built in 1820, after villagers found a marble statue of a woman dating to the 6th century AC in the forest. They built a temple in her honor, hoping she would bring better crops; the yearly festival honors the statue, worshippers visit then the temple and touch the statue.

Tay An Pagoda

The Tay An Pagoda was built in a mixture of Vietnamese and Asian architectural styles; it was constructed in 1847, but was rebuilt several times since then. It was built honoring a vision of a provincial chief named Doan Uan predicting good rice crops.

The front of the pagoda is Indian in style with an oval dome and a sailboat shaped roof; the Dai Hong Bell was made of gold and copper. The pagoda’s interior is decorated in traditional Vietnamese Buddhist style.

Thoai Ngoc Hau Tomb

The Thoai Ngoc Hau Tomb is located in front of the Ba Chua Xu Temple, and is the biggest monument at the mountain base.

Originally named Nguyen Van Thoai, Thoai Ngoc Hau (1761–1829), dig the Vinh Te and Thoai Ha channels that enabled the agriculture in the area; he was buried here along with his two wives. The temple in his honor was built in the 1930s.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by SeenThat on April 26, 2008

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SeenThat
SeenThat
Tel Aviv, Israel

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