Manchester and Its China Town

What better way to meet up and get to know a new colleague than to enjoy a meal in a quiet restaurant. The Pan Asia was recommended to me as a decent and reasonable place to eat and as it was in the centre of China Town and only a stride away from my hotel it seemed like a good place to rendezvous.

This basement restaurant is only a few steps away from the China Town Arch, but you’ll need to be observant to find it (go under the arch – approaching Manchester City Centre – the restaurant is on your right). The exterior was described to me as orange and I was expecting a garrulously painted building with neon lighting. It wasn’t quite that bad but the exterior is "busy" and just what you stereotypically think a Chinese should look like.

We descended down into the basement where an indoor enclosed waterfall forced us to make a right turn at the bottom of the staircase where we were greeted by the restaurant receptionist. The place was not full (that’s one of my euphemisms for almost empty) and we joined the other half dozen diners in a roomy table for two. We hardly had time to check out the menu before we were pounced on by an exuberant waitress with the broadest of smiles. Glancing at the drinks menu I saw that they served Tiger beer (bottled not draught) and so I happily ordered a bottle whilst starting to study the menu. It was huge and not being a connoisseur of Eastern food I knew that this was going to take some time. My colleague was no better informed on the delicacies of the east and so we sat silently trying to work out the options.

After some time we both opted for the easy option – the set menu. I chose the Eastern Delight Banquet and at just shy of £17 for three courses it seemed remarkable value. Having said that we did elect to enhance the second course by upgrading, for £3, to the Aromatic Crispy Duck. Each banquet came with four starters – Seaweed (the menu called it C’weed!), Coconut Chicken Traingles, Gyoza (Japanese style pork dumplings) and a Malaysian style Chicken skewer. What a great start for the meal!

We nibbled away at the starter and there was certainly no rush to move us on to the next course – indeed we had to indicate that we were ready to progress our meal. Not that that was a problem because the waitresses were ever attentive to our needs.

Next came the Crispy Duck almost ceremoniously carved at the table and we happily prepared the doughy pancakes with the spicy sauce and a selection of finely shredded vegetables. I have to say that I could have nibbled on this all night but I reminded myself that there was yet another course – the main course – to follow. Once again the waitress was awaiting our signal to indicate that we wanted to progress and the finished plates were removed from the table and at our request another bottle of beer brought to the table.

The Sizzling Chilli lamb (a dish recommended by person suggesting that I might enjoy a meal at Pan Asia) was brought to the table on a cast iron dish. And my word it WAS SIZZLING! What beautiful aromas and a superb blend of herbs and spices. I just loved it. But there was too much food and by the end of the evening I was really struggling to finish off the meal. Indeed I didn’t although I managed a fork full of my colleague’s Sweet and Sour Chicken. Just to try the taste, you understand!

As we were finishing off our meal we glanced around the restaurant and at 21.30 the place was deserted of diners. How weird is that. Still we opted for a coffee and a shot of whiskey. It seemed the right thing to do after enjoying a substantial and extremely tasty banquet.

What a superb meal.

Sometimes I’ll start the day with a clear sense about what I want to eat at night. Today was one of those days when I was fixed on having a Chinese meal. Indeed, I was even clearer, I was going to eat Sweet and Sour, specifically Chicken. So having checked into my hotel I headed off to China Town to peruse the menus and decide on the best restaurant. This is always a little bit random because without a recommendation you’re only left with a feeling about whether or not a restaurant is going to be good enough.

I’m not sure what it was that "drew me to the Top Wok". It really didn’t look much different to many of the other establishments in China Town and it was almost impossible to use my other measure of ensuring that the place had other diners. I walked up the short flight of stairs, past the two stone lions guarding the route, and entered the restaurant. It wasn’t huge (no more than 50 places I’d guess), but there were already a dozen diners at the tables. It was clean and crisp and I was confident that the meal would be satisfactory. A young male waiter greeted me and, grabbing handful of handful of recipes, he escorted me to a table.

The menus turned out to be really confusing offering too many choices. Not something I’d normally complain about! The a la carte was soon discarded as my knowledge of Chinese food is not detailed enough for me to successfully navigate my way round the multiple choices. Having dispensed with one I was still left with another three menus and a drinks menu. I decided to go with the easy one first and settled down to check out the drinks menu. There was a decent choice of wine, but I happily turned my attention to the beers. I noted that there were a couple of draft beers and one of these I recognised from a holiday in Hong Kong. That was the one to go for and I ordered a pint of Sunlik Beer, which at £2.80 didn’t seem like bad value. I hardly turned my attention to the food menu when a female waitress beamingly delivered my pint of beer. I supped a little and returned to the subject of food.

There were three separate menus detailing the "set menu" options. Some were easy to deal with as they were only served to two or more people, but I was still left with three options. The "eat as much as you can manage" for £10 and then a couple of set menus for £6.95 and £9.50. I could hardly tell the difference between the two and sought advice from the waiter. Apparently the main difference was quantity and he actually suggested I chose the cheaper of the two as he was sure it would provide with more than enough food. Never before has anyone suggested I choose a cheaper option so I happily went with his advice.

A large bowl of crackers with a tasty dip arrive first quickly followed by a steamingly hot bowl of chicken and sweet corn soup. This was typically Chinese with almost indistinguishable thin strips of chicken, loads of sweet corn and a liquid with a resemblance to dishwater. It was tasty enough it just looked un-inviting!

The second course was great with a selection of seaweed, sesame seed bread, spring roll, spare ribs. The seaweed wasn’t hot but the rest was too hot to handle and having burnt my fingers on the spare ribs I decided to sit back and drink a little beer before trying it again. All were superbly tasty and I took my time savouring all the differnt flavours and enjoys the various textures of the dishes. But nothing lasts for ever and by the time I'd finished this course I'd also consumed all my beer. So when the Sweet and Sour Chicken and egg fried rice arrived I ordered another Sunlik beer.

Once again there was plenty of food and despite the fact that I'd been considering Sweet and Sour throughout the day (that's a sad outcome of eating a less than saitisfactory lunch) i was not disappointed. The chicken was nice and tender and there was plenty of rice to soak up the beautifully glazed sauce. This was a meal that I thoroughly enjoyed and although it wasn't included in the meal I ordered a variety of ice creams (a scoop mint, chocolate and vanilla to be precise).

The desert was of course to cleanse the palate!

I was really well looked after in the Top Wok central with attentive but not obtrusive front of house staff. I was amused by the sounds of "Big Ben" ringing out from the kitchen everytime that a meal was prepared for collection, but I seemed to be on my own with that one. Perhaps that's one of the perils of lone dining - small things amuse or distract.

I would certainly recommend Top Wok central
to the visitor to Manchester. It offers the chance of a good quality cheap meal served in pleasant surroundings.

But will I return?

Probably not as there are too many other places to try out!

Back in Manchester I was once again recommended that China Buffet (an interesting name for a restaurant) was a decent place to eat. It’s on the corner of Faulkner Street in the heart of China Town and in the shadow of the Ceremonial Arch. It really doesn’t look a great deal from the outside – mind you that isn’t too unusual for the area – but I decided it would be crazy to reject a recommendation from a woman who had already given me three or four decent venues.

I descended the steep set of stairs into this basement restaurant and was a bit taken aback by its presentation. It’s real basic and reminiscent of a works canteen. I thought for a second about retracing my steps and bidding a hasty retreat, but a glance towards the huge selection of dishes persuaded me to stay. I was shown to a very small table next to the wall and even before I could sit down was asked what I wanted to drink. "Beer" I questioned, and I was told that they had a couple of Chinese beers (including Tiger) and various other light beers. At £2.60 a bottle it seemed to be par for the course and I opted for a Chinese beer that I hadn’t seen before, but before I sat down I decided that the table I’d been allocated was not to my liking. It was too small and rammed up close to the wall in a dark corner. I decided to move to a bigger table (set out for four people) and although the waiter didn’t look too impressed "I toughed it out".

Although I knew that the China Buffet only offered the "eat as much as you like" menu I would have expected the waiter to have pointed me in the right direction. He said nothing and I made the assumption that I should just "dig in". As I checked out the "buffet bar" he acknowledged me once again and said "just help yourself." Just as well, because by this point I was digging into the seaweed and helping myself to some crackers. There was a good choice of starters including a couple of soups, spring roll, chicken parcels, sesame toast, spare ribs, battered king prawns and plenty more and I was soon conscious that I needed to be sure that I didn’t over indulge at this stage of the meal.

I was pleased to see that crispy duckling was available and took a couple of the "pancakes" coating them with sauce and adding some of the shredded duckling. I’ve had tastier, but it was more than OK and I did enjoy the tastes, although it would have been nicer had it been hotter!

Next I turned my attention to the main courses. I chose the accompaniments of egg fried rice and a portion of soft noodles and bean sprouts and ladled a decent portion of sweet and sour chicken alongside a smaller spoonful of sweet and sour pork. Now I love sweet and sour so returned to my basic table and chair with my spoon and fork (that’s the only eating implements that are on offer) in eager anticipation. I was not to be disappointed and happily finished off my plateful. After a rest and catching the waitress’s attention for another beer (this time I chose Tiger) I returned to the buffet bar (it having been fully replenished) and selected a portion of beef in a black bean sauce with some more soft noodles.

I was to be doubly disappointed – the beef was tough, although the sauce was tasty and the promised beer hadn’t been delivered to my table. In fact I had to attract the waitress’ attention for the second time to remind her of her failure! Next I tried some pork in a tasty and rich sauce alongside a small portion of roasted chicken. Typically Chinese, the meat had been "cleaver cut" and there were some real interesting presentations. It never makes the chicken any the less tasty, but I’m always surprised how strange the cut looks when served on the plate.

Alongside the meat dishes there were various vegetable dishes, Sushi, and prawns – indeed I’d be surprised if any diner had difficulty in finding a dish to "tickle their taste buds". Surprisingly there was a large selection of "puddings" and although none were particularly inspiring they made a decent conclusion to my meal.

The China Buffet Restaurant is not a place to frequent for a "posh night out". It’s a utilitarian basement eatery with some "crude and basic" tables and chairs with minimal place settings (a spoon fork and paper napkin). The plates were maintained warm and were well-worn and it’s very obvious that the throughput is "fast and furious". When I got there many of the tables were empty, but within half-an-hour almost every table was occupied and a quick read of the drinks menu indicated that diners were expected to complete their meal within the hour. Indeed there was a clear line that stated that the time of your arrival would dictate the time of your departure! This was not enforced when I visited (I was there for over 75 minutes), but I suspect on a busy evening there is no hesitation from the waiting staff to remind you of this condition. Even on this Monday night I didn’t feel that the "front of house staff" were particularly welcoming of me or the other diners. Indeed they were fairly off-hand and not particularly attentive.

Don’t get me wrong the meal was fine and at £7.50 you’d be hard pressed to fault the quality and indeed the quantity. But it’s not a stylish establishment. It does what it says at the entrance – it offers you as much as you can eat from the Chinese buffet. Have a go if you’re peckish and don’t want to linger.

The follwong day when I was recounting my experience back to my colleague (the one who'd recommended it to me)she looked somewhat surpised with my description of the place."What was it called" she enquired. "The China Buffet" I replied. Her face said it all, I'd gone to the wrong place!!

Having chosen the wrong restaurant last week (see my China Buffet journal entry) I just had to return to China Town and this time visited one of the restaurants that had been recommended to me.

China City (sounds like China Buffet!) was only a step away from the place I’d eaten in last week, but it did look a little more attractive. However, that was an option for a future meal as I’d been recommended Little Yang Sing by four different people. That was in my view sufficient accolade to merit a try! I’ve actually walked past the Little Yang Sing on many occasions and always thought it looked a swish place to eat in. Indeed its bigger brother Yang Sing, on Princess Street, has also taken my eye (perhaps another night!)

The Little Yang Sing occupies a significant site on the corner of George Street with a disabled access on Charlotte Street, but I took the short flight of stairs from George Street and entered this large and nicely, almost tastefully decorated basement restaurant. It looks chic and extravagant but it’s really not pretentious or over the top. The staff are dressed in their stylish uniforms and I was quickly shown to my table. The majority of the tables are large and it’s obvious that this eatery appeals to larger groups so I felt that I had to accept the table for two that was offered to me. As seems to be usual for Chinese Restaurants I was asked what I wanted to drink before I’d settled in my seat. Indeed I hadn’t even taken my coat off! I was determined not to be rushed so sat down and asked to see the drinks menu. There were several beers but I chose Tsingtao, a light Chinese beer. At just short of £3 for a bottle it’s a wee bit expensive, but it was light and refreshing and would go well with the spicy dish that I had in mind.

Checking out the outside menu I’d fixed on Chilli Sliced Lamb Fillet with Sichuan Sauce and a study of the substantial and somewhat confusing menu did nothing to change my mind. Indeed the menu was so difficult to find my way round that I had to ask for help to find the rice and noodle dishes. Having said that once it was pointed out it was fairly obviously if not logically placed on the menu. I confirmed my choice of the lamb and was thrown by the option to have a bowl or a large plate. Initially I opted for the plate but within seconds of the waitress leaving my side I decided that a bowl was much more logical. It wasn’t a problem because the front of house staff were "hovering all around" and having attracted the attention of one of the young girls I was able to change my request to a bowl.

As I was tucked at the far edge of the restaurant I was in the perfect position to "people watch" and I reckon one day I’ll sit down and record some of my observations about people’s behaviour in public places. People are fascinating and restaurants offer an opportunity to study a micro-cultural view of all types and cultures. Thanks to my Social Work Training I’m naturally nosey and just love to examine and, given half a chance, explore people’s interaction.

But I digress! After a few slurps on my Chinese beer the waitress delivered a hot plate to my table and ceremoniously placed a warm bowl on the plate and then disappeared. Some more people watching, checking out of the decor and a drink or two and she returned with my meal. The meat was placed on the hotplate, the bowl moved to my place setting and a decent portion of egg-fried rice transferred from the serving dish into my bowl. You can’t help but admire the dexterity involved in manoeuvring rice from serving dish to eating bowl using two spoons in one hand!

The meal looked great with an ample portion of sliced filleted lamb covered in a glossy sauce and accompanied with water chestnuts (I just love them), tender bamboo shoots and sliced carrots (not quite as exotic). The sauce lived up to expectations with a hint of garlic and ginger seeping through to the taste buds and the lively tang of the hot chillies. Delightful!

The great think about this meal is that there was enough sauce to permeate through the rice and having filled my bowl four times I was fully sated.

The whole feel of the Little Yang Sing is that of a class restaurant, although I understand that its "big brother" – Yang Sing – is even grander. I thoroughly enjoyed my meal out and was pleased that this time I’d been able to follow the directions in their entirety and taste an exquisite meal in a highly recommended establishment.

Check out their web site at www.littleyangsing.co.uk for further information.

Manchester’s Chinatown doesn’t cover a huge area but nevertheless it’s a fascinating area to wander round. It has been described as "the Chinese village for the north of England" but that, I feel, perhaps distorts the image of the place. After all it still looks like Manchester!

At one end is the classic Chinese arch and you’d be forgiven in thinking that this is an historic artefact. Surprisingly it’s only around four decades old, but as it was the first Imperial Arch to be erected in the whole of Europe it’s a fairly important symbol of the far eastern influence in the west. It was shortly after the Second World War that the City "experienced" its first Chinese restaurant and for some considerable time the Ping Hong was the one and only in town. In the 60’s several more opened across town but China Town only became a significant area in the 1970’s.

As the old cotton warehouses around Nicholas Street and Faulkner Street became available several restaurants began to open and of course the growth in restaurants required associated services such as laundries and food suppliers. All of this chain can still be seen in China Town and in my experience the food shops never seem to close,

In the centre of China town, alongside the he impressive Ming Dynasty Imperial Arch, are a couple of pagodas and numerous "street seats" and more often as not there are groups of Chinese sat around "chewing the cud". Initially I found it a little unnerving to see large groups of people congregated in the streets but the more often I return the more I’ve accepted it as part of the micro-culture of the area. Apparently it’s even busier at the weekend and that’s the time to mingle with the locals". Indeed Manchester now claims a Chinese population of over 30,000 many of these second and third generation as well as an increasing itinerant student population, which swell the numbers during University term time.

Here in China town you’ll find the specialist super-markets with the foodstuffs piled high. You actually don’t have to go in to appreciate them as many are in basements and you’ll get a perfect bird’s eye view from on high. Additionally there are the traditional Chinese herbalists specialising in "natural treatments" for all disorders under the sun, and the acupuncturists and practitioners of the art of "ancient massage".

I am consistently fascinated by the infrastructure that has been established in the area with Chinese Banks, Financial Advisories and Solicitors all appealing only to this large minority group in the City. Of course the area needs to offer this specialist support to its residents and workers but the main clientele of China Town is the visitor or the Manchurian wanting a great and economical night out.

Naturally the area has its fair share of take-aways – the once staple trade of the Chinese community but why eat at home when you can pick up such great deals in a comfortable restaurant.

I was nonchalantly wandering close to China Town one evening in February and not realising it was the Chinese New Year, was treated to a superb firework display splaying bright lights across the area and linked with a whole lot of noise this was a sensational celebration. I checked out and 2008 is the year of the rat and then inspired by the thought of animals ruling our destiny I checked my own year of birth. I’m the year of the OX and of course ancient customs are always spot on when they make their analysis and predictions. Apparently those born in the year of the Ox are bright, patient and inspiring and happy with my own company. Well that’s spot on!!
These celebrations have been going on in Manchester since 1989 – long may they continue.

Walking around China Town at night will give a totally different impression. The neon lights illuminate the streets with their bright primary colours and the shop windows display the traditional tacky goods that look quite at ease in the region. Ancient stone lions have been "converted" to the bright metallic "paw waving" monstrosities that perpetually wave at the passers by. Somehow China Town wouldn’t be right without them!

If you fancy a night of gambling then you can be guaranteed to find the odd casino in Faulkner Street. Not "my bag" so I can’t tell you what the inside of the places are like.

I just love the vibrancy of the place although you do sometimes have to look beyond the litter and overall tackiness of the place. Certainly worth a look.