Out n About in Nova Scotia

What can I say about this beautiful province that hasn’t already been said? Well I will try.

In my opinion and having traveled in all our provinces I give this one my stamp of most scenic place with the friendliest of locals. Second only to Ireland on my list of places to spend quality relaxing getting away from the Hurley burly bustle and stress life sometimes throws at one.

From the lovely Margaree Valley and upward through the Cape Breton Highlands National park you will enjoy breathtaking vistas. I particularly enjoyed the views from Cheticamp then through the Cape Breton Highlands National park to pleasant bay. There are over 27 marked hiking trails in the park, unfortunately we were unable to hike on this trip but it is on our calendar for Sept 2008.

On the way there are frequent opportunities to enjoy the view, a picnic, or join a whale watching cruise around Cheticamp or Cape North. You will find interesting towns that still retain a colonial atmosphere, good roads and helpful friendly people.

We visited Lunenburg and found we needed more time and of course no trip to Nova Scotia would be complete without a meander through Peggy’s Cove one of the most photographed landmarks in Canada.

We spent a night in Digby famous for its Scallops and some of the highest tides in the world. Fisherman’s wharf is the best places to watch the tides and while you do make sure to partake in some of the best seafood dinners in town.

We spent some of our trip catching up with family and meeting cousins I had never met {16 in all} I visited my grandparents grave and the church where my parents married. We plan a longer rip in the fall and I look forward to exploring in depth.

Quick Tips:

Visit the Nova Scotia visitor’s bureau they are very helpful and have many brochures, maps and tour books.

Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic. Cheticamp.

Open daily 9:30am -5:30pm May -Oct.
Mon- Fri 8:30- 4:30pm rest of year. Admission. Adult . senior. Family rate .
Phone 902 634 4794

Lady Vanessa Fisheries Exhibit Digby.
Showcased on a former scallop dragger, provides an interesting glimpse into the traditions of scallop fishing. You can view its sleeping quarters, galley ,
and helm. Purchase tickets at the little gift shop closest to the boat Open 9-6pm in June- Oct. and from 6-9pm in July and Aug.{

Acadian Museum Main St Cheticamp.

Another look into the history and culture of this Acadian town. Spinning and weaving are demonstrated and other crafts of the area. Also a nice little café provides snacks. Open 8-9pm June-Aug and 9-5pm May- Oct. phone. 902 224 2170

Cape Breton National Highland Park.

Call for information Package, prior to your trip if you intend to stay or camp. If not just take the lovely ride through the park and enjoy.
daily admission. Senior Open all year

Captain Zodiacs Whale Watching Tours. Cheticamp

All weather suits provided. This two hour tour departs daily from Cheticamp at 9am 11am up to 5pm. May 5th-Oct 5th Reservations necessary. Cost. . Phone. 902 224 1088.

Best Way To Get Around:

This was a driving vacation and we found the roads and signage excellent.
There were many places to pull off to admire scenery and picnic and most places provided easy access to parking,

We did drive over the new very long bridge to P.E.I. you don’t pay crossing but they collect the fee returning.{ per car} We took the Ferry from Woods Island to Nova Scotia.{ total with surcharge}} There is no cost for driving the Canso Causeway into Cape Breton.

Our brief visit to this enchanting village made me forget that we live in a hustle bustle world, tranquil, rugged, an artist dream. Its magical atmosphere touched my soul and I am sure the souls of many visitors.

Huge rugged boulders and a lighthouse perched on the edge of the roaring Atlantic transports one back to bye gone times when fishing and surviving among the granite coves and inlets must have been daunting to persecuted Europeans and countless other groups who made this area home.

Peggy’s cove was our first stop on the lighthouse trail and we were lucky to visit off season, parking was a breeze with no waits for tables at the cafes. We had no tour buses to contend with in fact we had a very relaxing walk around the tiny village and the weather cooperated beautifully. Peggy’s cove was supposedly named after Margaret the lone survivor of a ship wreck or perhaps after the nearby St Margaret’s Bay {I like the shipwreck story}

We admired lobster traps piled high against weather washed cottages and scrambled over the slippery rocks to the old lighthouse, and enjoyed listening to a local lady’s sweet voice belting out old melodies just outside the door to the lighthouse. The bottom floor is used as a post office and we were told in season line ups for the special stamp extends down to the road. You can purchase cards and stamps at the old Sou Western Restaurant close by and mail your cards right outside the door.

The Sou Westerner provides a great choice of home cooked meals and is a virtual alladins cave of gift choices. We spent a good few hours walking the shoreline and relaxed over a fabulous fish dinner later. It really is a magical place.


We followed the scenic lighthouse trail driving route{hwy 333} which took us through some of the most scenic and rugged areas on the coast, tranquil bays and the unesco world heritage town of Lunenburg. The trail ends in Liverpool but we didn’t go that far because we because we wanted to spend the night in the lovely fishing town of Digby. The lighthouse trail is well marked and the only caveat is that you will make poor time because of frequent stops to admire the scenery.

Meeting cousins and my aunt aged 89 was the highlight of my trip to the East coast. Weather was glorious and re connecting with folk that I hadn’t seen in forty years priceless. Quite a lot of our conversations covered family history and names of ships that brought my grandparents to Canada in 1923 and so on our way back home we detoured in order to visit Pier 21 in Halifax.

Pier 21 was the landing place of thousands of immigrants and also the place that troops left for world war two, I had uncles and relatives that left in that war and thankfully all returned. My mother did not return. She left in 1935 to join my father in England, she died there nine years later and so this port was especially poignant for me.


This National historic site is a must see for everyone who’s ancestors made the trip through its doors and as modern day travelers enter they are transported into the world of thousands of folk from all walks of life as unfolds the journey of millions of immigrants.


Located on the upper level of the port building you will enter the world of the immigrant through donated letters photographs and a compelling video Named Oceans of Hope. I would recommend viewing this before exploring the remainder of the museum.

Many cruise lines stop here and while we were there the Grand Princess was in dock I thought it added to the authenticity to the area, it is still a busy port.

Downstairs there are a myriad of shops encompassing the length of a football field selling all kinds of mementos, high end tee shirts, and clothing plus coffee shops.

Also on the ground floor is the research center. Staff there will assist you in finding passenger lists of arriving immigrants. There is no charge for this. I was delighted to obtain two passenger lists; the first my grandfathers arrival on the ship the Doric in 1923 and my grandmothers arrival on the ship Regina in 1924. Copies for the passenger lists are ten Dollars and if you wish to purchase a black and white photograph of ships including caption, shipping, the cost is $30. The research center depends on donations and sales of ships photographs.

Admission $8 over 60 $7 students $5.50 Family $20
Open Daily 9 30- 3 30 May- Nov
Parking on site.

In 1497 explorer John Cabot claimed Cape Breton Island for the crown and it is in my opinion Cape Bretons most precious jewel. It is certainly apt that this wonderful natural wonder is named after this man who landed on the remote north corner of this coast.

This particular part of the world is very dear to my heart because my mother was born and brought up here. forty years ago we spent a week in Sydney mines my mothers birthplace and the place where she met my dad married, and had three children. My father was 16 when he arrived in Cape Breton with his parents and siblings but he missed England and he and my mother returned leaving family and friends behind. Time constraints forty years ago barred us from visiting this part of Cape Breton. In September 2008 we decided to rectify that and all I can say is the Cabot trail is one of the most scenic areas I have ever visited. My husband was recovering from major surgery and so long hikes were not attempted rather we chose to drive the trail and savor its outstanding scenery.

We picked up the trail at Inverness on the west part of the Island an area of extraordinary beauty along the Margaree River, you may want to stop at the Salmon museum there however we opted to visit the pioneer church of Our Lady Of the seven sorrows at Mabou a tiny wooden structure much loved by the locals and beautifully preserved.

The Margaree valley and river is renowned for its tranquility and Margaree itself is a very picturesque town. Northeast of the town we followed the Ceilidh trail and stopped for a picnic at the picnic tables at Belle Cote{ just outside Margaree Harbour} a popular whale watching area with excellent beaches.

From Belle cote we proceeded north along the wild Atlantic coastline to Cheticamp where we spent the night in a RV at the Plage St, Pierre campground{ PO box 1146 Cheticamp. Phone 1902 224 2112} This campground is aprox a ten minute car ride to the center of town and has all the amenities anyone could imagine plus it is situated close by an open sandy beach great for families and no rowdy activities tolerated.

Cheticamp is a vibrant Acadian town and is noted for its Music and whale watching day cruises. The Doryman tavern on Main St wins rave reviews for its caliber of music and home cooked meals, a bonus is its huge picture windows that overlook the wild ocean. We can attest to its food and music and its friendly locals.

Cape Breton Highlands National Park is 3 miles north of town. This especially scenic section of the trail is not to be missed, rugged shoreline roads that cling to the edge of steep premonitorys with sheer drops to the sea then give way to dense forests and silent sublime tranquility teeming with wildlife. Cape Breton Highland Parks western entrance is 3 miles north of Cheticamp it is bounded on the west side by the gulf of St Lawrence and on the east by the Atlantic Ocean. Admission to the park is $7 per day and is open all year. The whole trail which we did in a clockwise circle is around 185 miles.
Another pleasant stop on the East side of the coast is aptly named Pleasant bay showcasing unspoiled beaches and more opportunities for whale watching tours. The eastern shore is very different to the west. You can discover un spoilt coves and beaches and catch glimpses of whales however drive carefully especially at dusk, watch out for the Moose my cousin told me they are very prone to wander the roads on the Eastern side.
You will not find tacky souvenir shops along this route instead you will be delighted by its artisan offerings, art galleries and great eateries with scenic views.
We spent two days traveling this trail but it could be driven in a day if time is a problem, I would imagine the summer months are not as pleasant and perhaps crowded, we felt the fall was perfect for us.

We ended our trip on the trail at St Anne’s Bay where we boarded the Englishtown Ferry that provides transport across the bay every five minutes. Cost of the ferry is $5 and the ferry holds 12 cars. From There we found easy highway access to Sydney Mines.
Alexander Graham Bell’s quote seems to sum up my thoughts on seeing and experiencing the Cabot Trail.

“I have traveled around the globe. I have seen the Canadian and American Rockies, the Andes, the Alps and the Highlands of Scotland, but for simple beauty, Cape Breton out rivals them all.”

Lunenburg once home of the largest deep sea fishing fleet in the world and a UNESCO heritage site is also home to the famous Bluenose 11 an enduring symbol of Nova Scotia’s maritime spirit.

We stopped here for lunch mainly to visit the Fisheries museum and to view the beautiful Bluenose. The picturesque town center, narrow steep streets, harbor and well preserved colonial buildings provide a very pleasant interlude and insight into Lunenburg’s fishing and sailing roots. I wished we had planned an overnight here, but there is always a next time.

We had lunch at The Old Fish Factory Restaurant in the Fisheries museum and enjoyed the superb view of the harbor. The staff were very friendly {a Nova Scotia norm} and the fish fresh that day. There are numerous choices of eateries in Lunenburg but we kind of stumbled upon this Restaurant when we went to buy tickets for the museum. {Lunch with beer and dessert for two $25}

You cannot miss the fisheries museum it is a bright red building, in it is old life it was a fish processing plant. Now it houses three floors of exhibits and has one of the largest saltwater aquariums in the world plus a great gift shop where you can purchase top class souvenirs. For me the highlight of the museum was on the second floor which houses an impressive age of Sail exhibit, plus on that floor you can try your hand at rug hooking, quilting, and other traditional Nova Scotia crafts.

There are a couple of outdoor exhibits including a former fishing boat the Theresa E O Connor. Visitors can step aboard and explore this re furbished 1938 vessel. Docked alongside the museum is the 143 foot Schooner Bluenose 11.

This lady glistens in the sunshine with her many coats of varnish, shiny brasses and impeccable rigging, she certainly stirs the imagination of its visitors especially those with a touch of salt in their veins.
Visitors can book tours {reservations a must} for a two hour cruise. Unfortunately visitors were not allowed the day that we visited. We observed the youthful crew performing various tasks, during the past year this ship has welcomed aboard over forty thousand visitors.

The original and beloved Bluenose was launched in 1921 she was not really a racing yacht her main purpose was fishing, She was captained by Captain Angus Walters from all accounts a tough but Skilled sailor, he oversaw all aspects of her construction and under his command she became the fastest schooner in the world and an undefeated champion of the Fisherman’s trophy race.

This ship is a beloved symbol of Canada and the Maritime spirit, even King George the fifth remarked on her beauty and lines. Sadly the ship struck a reef near Haiti in 1946 and was not salvageable. Her likeness can still be seen on our dime and Captain Walters little Cottage is open to the public. Most of the information I have was obtained from the age of Sail in the fisheries museum and you will be enthralled by the old photographs and plans of this schooner. Plan to spend a couple of hours especially if you stay for the film {Aprox 30min}

As I wandered around the town I couldn’t help thinking of my ancestors. My mother’s ancestry is from Montbeliard on the Swiss French border. Lunenburg was settled in 1753 by German Swiss Huguenots, Protestants fleeing persecution and many of them made their homes in Lunenburg and so I could have been treading in their footsteps.

In summary this is a town to savor on foot, stroll the quayside, then wander into the center which house an interesting colony of up market craft shops, small cafes and art galleries. It is a delightful place deserving of much longer than a days visit.