Madrid's Art Precinct

Madrid is an art lover’s paradise and to make things easier for visitors, many of the best galleries and museums are within close walking distance of each other in what is known as the art precinct.

There are three main galleries that you must visit whilst in Madrid. The Prado comes top of every art lover's list. Next is the Reina Sofia where Picasso's 'Guernica' resides. And thirdly comes the Thyssen Bornemisza Museum. All three are located close to one another either on or just off Paseo del Prado.

The Prado has become a mecca for classical art lovers from around the world. In addition to the great Spanish masters, you'll also find some of the best of Flemish and Italian schools.

The Reina Sofía is now considered one of the most important contemporary art museums in the world. The permanent collection in the Reina Sofía is almost exclusively made up of Spanish art from the 20th century, with works by many of the most important artists.

The Thyssen-Bornemisza fills the historical gaps in its counterparts' collections: in the Prado's case this includes fine examples of Italian Primitives and works from the English, Dutch and German schools, while in the case of the Reina Sofia the Thyssen-Bornemisza collection includes impressionists, expressionists, and European and American paintings from the second half of the 20th century. The Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum opened its doors to the public in 1992 and was acquired by the Spanish state for million in 1993.

There are two other museums that are a little removed from Paseo del Prado that are also impressive. The Casón del Buen Retiro is a 17th-century building in a street very close to the Prado Museum. Originally it served as the Ballroom of a great palace, used for leisure activities by Spanish king Philip IV. The ceiling paintings by Lucas Jordan, which constitute a tribute to the Spanish monarchy, still remain from that room. The building is now home to collections of 19th and 20th-century paintings. It now belongs to the Museo del Prado.

The very interesting Museo Arqueologico houses some art of Ancient Egypt, Mesopotamia, Greece and Rome formerly in the Prado Collection. It also has a dramatic replica of the prehistoric cave paintings featuring bison, horses, and boars discovered in Altamira, Cantabria. It is about a kilometer north of the Prado Museum.

Quick Tips:

A useful tip if you plan on visiting the major three galleries (Prado, Thyssen-Bornemisza and Reina Sofia) is to purchase the Paseo del Arte ticket which allows entrance to these galleries at a substantial saving. The ticket is available at all three participating galleries.

There is a scheduled coach tour of Madrid's main galleries including the Prado, Reina Sofia and Thyssen Museums. It is called the Special Madrid Artistic and Panoramic City Tour and it operates most days during the May to September period and less often other times.

There is a private walking tour of the Prado and Reina Sofia museums which includes the services of an official English speaking guide who will show you around some of the main works in each gallery.

You should note that the Prado, the Reina Sofia and the Museum of Archaeology all provide free admission on Sundays. The downside of this is that there are much larger crowds on Sunday than during the week so you may enjoy the galleries less.

Best Way To Get Around:

All museums and galleries in this journal are within walking distance of each other. It is an extremely pleasant walk along Pasco del Prado and its extension, Paseo de Recoletos. For some relaxation after the museums, check out the Parque del Buen Retiro.

Atocha is the nearest Metro stop to the Reina Sofia Centre, and Serrano is the closest to the Museum of Archaeology.

The National Archeological Museum is often said to be Madrid's most important museum after the Prado Museum, however, it receives much less visits from international visitors. I was keen to visit because I had heard about the reproductions of paintings from the Altamira Caves and I was not disappointed.

The museum was founded by Isabella II in 1867 and moved in 1895 to its present premises in a neoclassical building with the National Library. The museum has a rich collection ranging in date from prehistoric times to the 19th C. Many of the museum's exhibits are treasures that were removed from churches and monasteries.

I started the visit by going to the replica of the prehistoric cave paintings featuring bison, horses, and boars discovered in Altamira, Cantabria. The replica is located underground in the garden. The exhibit is very well set up and you can almost believe you are seeing the real thing. It is certainly the nearest I will ever get as access to the real thing is highly restricted. We probably spent 20 minutes here but I could have spent much longer.

Inside the museum, La Dama de Elche, a bust of a wealthy, 5th-century BC Iberian woman was one of the more outstanding items. Notice that her headgear is a rough precursor to the mantillas and hair combs still associated with traditional Spanish dress. There are several other items from this period as well.

The ancient Visigothic votive crowns are another highlight, discovered in 1859 near Toledo and believed to date back to the 8th century. The central feature of the museum’s Room 29 is the Treasure of Guarrazar (Toledo), a collection of votive crowns of gold, precious stones and crystal, formerly in the Royal Church in Toledo, which bear witness to the skill of the seventh C. Visigothic goldsmiths. A votive deposit or votive offering is an object left in a sacred place for ritual purposes. Such items are a feature of modern and ancient societies and are generally made in order to gain favour with supernatural forces.

A much-photographed choir stall from the palace of Palencia dates from the 14th century. Finds from Ibiza, Paestum, and Rome are on display, including statues of Tiberius and his mother, Livia. The Islamic collection from Spain is considered to be outstanding. The Islamic art of Andalusia from the eighth to the 11th C. and from the 12th to the 15th C. is displayed in Rooms 30 and 31.

There are also collections of Spanish Renaissance lusterware, Talavera pottery, Retiro porcelain, and some rare 16th- and 17th-century Andalusian glassware.

You need a couple of hours to go right through the collection but one hour will give you a reasonable overview.

The museum is closed Mondays, but opens 9.30 to 20.30 Tuesday to Saturday and 9.30 to 14.30 on Sundays and public holidays.

The Reina Sofía National Museum Art Centre was inaugurated September 1992, by King Juan Carlos of Spain and Queen Sofía. Perhaps it was the transferring of Picasso´s "Guernica" to the Reina Sofía for its permanent collection, which was the decisive milestone in it now being considered one of the most important contemporary art museums in the world.

The building which houses the collection was designed in the 18th century by the architect Francisco Sabatini and was built as a hospital. At one point, it was the object of urban planning which included its demolition. In 1977, after much debate, this was declared an artistic historic monument.

Its geographical situation - beside the Atocha roundabout, opposite the botanical gardens and close to the Prado Museum - makes this building an ideal headquarters for a national museum, however extensive work was necessary to turn it into such a complex. The most obvious external change are the two glass elevator towers grafted onto the building.

The museum’s permanent collection is housed on two floors, the second and fourth. The reason for this separation is conceptual - to differentiate the vanguard artists of the early 20th century, from the contemporary works, from 1939 until today.

The move of the Picasso painting from the Prado remains controversial - Picasso had explicitly stated his desire that the Guernica be exhibited in the Prado and although its present room in the Reina Sofía was expressly built for the work, there are often complaints about the difficulty in seeing the painting in its entirety, even though it is no longer behind a bullet-proof glass shield. The room in which it is kept lacks depth, and some say it forces the viewer to see it either too close up or from too far away. The are also complaints about poor lighting in the room which houses the preliminary work, which are said to have been better displayed in their previous home. I personally was not worried by either problem.

I must confess that the Picasso work overshadowed everything else in the gallery but then I am not a great fan of contemporary art. The permanent collection in the Reina Sofía is almost exclusively made up of Spanish art from the 20th century, with works by many of the most important artists (Picasso, Miró, Oteiza, Julio González, Tapies, Equipo Crónica, Gerardo Rueda) but with a notable absence of many others.

The building itself, the central patio, with its superb mobile sculpture by Alexander Calder, the library, the book shop and the cafeteria all contribute to making the Reina Sofía a museum/art centre well worth visiting.

Atocha Station is the largest railway station in Madrid. It is the primary station serving commuter trains, intercity and regional trains from the south, and the AVE high speed trains from Seville and Lleida. These train services are run by the Spanish national rail company, Renfe.

The station was Madrid's first railway station. It was inaugurated in 1851 and after the building was largely destroyed by fire, it was rebuilt and reopened in 1892. The steel and glass hanger was built to a design by Alberto Elissagne, who collaborated with Gustave Eiffel. This old building was taken out of service in 1992 and converted into a concourse with shops, cafés, a nightclub, and a 4,000 square metre covered tropical garden. A modern terminal was added to the complex at that time.

On one end of the atrium (upper floor) is the entrance to the long-distance train bays. Commuter train platforms are located underground. The complex is laid out more like an airport terminal than an old- style train station. The building, located on the Plaza del Emperador Carlos V, is served by two Madrid Metro stations, Atocha and Atocha Renfe. The latter was added when the new terminal building was constructed and is directly linked to the railway station.

Some, but not all, ticket agents at the Madrid train station speak English. At the information counter/s you should find an English-speaking attendant. Most of the signs in the Station are dual English/Spanish.

For long distance and regional trains, once you have your tickets you can check which platform (VIA) your train will be leaving from by using the Arrivals and Departures board in the atrium.

Long distance and regional train ticket holders will take the escalator-style ramps (located in the atrium on either side of the Arrivals and Departures board) up to the second floor and go through security before they are allowed to board. Boarding works just like at an airport. It is really quite impressive.

The old station building was nearly torn down but it has since been restored and refurbished by Spain’s famous Rafael Moneo. The result is very impressive and it has become a tourist destination even for people who have no intention of catching a train. The original old building has been filled with a tropical rainforest and new platforms constructed at a higher level. Don’t miss it.

The wonderfull tree-lined Paseo del Prado runs from the Plaza de la Cibeles through the Plaza Canovas del Castillo to Atocha railway station. It is a marvelous boulevard to walk anytime day or night. There are spectacular fountains, lovely flowerbeds and classical buildings to admire.

The Paseo del Prado was designed by King Carlos 111 as a leafy nature walk with glorious fountains and a botanic garden for respite from the heat in the Madrid summer.

The Paseo Del Prado is a must for art lovers visiting Madrid. This street houses three of the biggest and best art museums in Madrid, all within walking distance of each other. These museums are a treasure trove of paintings stretching back from the medieval period to contemporary Spanish art. Also along here are Madrid's grand 19th century Neo Classical buildings: banks, the Communications Building and the Ritz and Westin Palace hotels.

The Plaza de la Cibeles is at the north end of the street. This is dominated by the Fountain of Cibeles which depicts the nature goddess driving a chariot drawn by lions. This is particular spectacular at night. There are two grand buildings here worth noting. The first is the massive Bank of Spain building from 1884 which takes up an entire block. Opposite this is the very ornate Palacio de Comunicacions building which houses the main post office.

As you walk south, you come to the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, the newest of Madrid’s three major art centers. Unfortunately, we didn’t make it inside here but the 18th century Villahermosa Palace which houses the collection is attractive in itself.

At the next plaza there are several highlights. First is Neptune’s Fountain which dominates the traffic roundabout. Then there are the Ritz and Westin Palace hotels, two of the city’s finest. Then of course there is the Prado Museum.

Further south again is the Botanic Garden which holds many plants from around the world. Surprisingly you need to pay to enter. Then there is the daily book market and finally Atocha Station which is like a giant hanger built in the late 19th century. It’s worth going inside to see the tropical rainforest that has been established here.

Europe has many excellent art museums, but Madrid's El Prado Museum has to be rated as one of the very best. Originally built to be a science museum at the end of the 17th century, El Prado became one of the world's first public art museums when opened in 1819 to house the Royal art collection. Today, some 1,500 works of art are on display, but El Prado has more than 9,000 works in its extensive collection, which are displayed on a rotational basis.

The museum is situated on Paseo del Prado at the southern end of Madrid's main North-South artery, about midway between the Atocha train station and the "Cibeles" fountain.

The Prado has become a mecca for classical art lovers from around the world. In addition to the great Spanish masters, you'll also find some of the best of Flemish and Italian schools. Spanish artists include the great masters Velázquez, El Greco and Goya, as well as Murillo, Zuloaga, Sorolla, Rivera and many others. The Flemish school is represented by such greats as Van Dyke, Durer, Bosch, Rembrandt and Rubens. Italian artists on display include some of the most famous: Titian, Botticelli, Rafael, Tintoretto and others.

While it's hard for me to pick out the best from such an outstanding collection, El Prado boasts most of the major works of Velázquez, including Las Meninas (Maids of Honor) and Las Hilanderas (Spinners); some superb works by the great El Greco and an excellent selection of Goya's splendid portraits and some of his truly surprising and haunting "Black Period" works.

El Prado is not far from the Madrid's city center and easily reachable by bus or Metro. The museum's open from 09:00 to 19:00 Tuesday-Saturday, 09:00-14:00 Sundays and public holidays, 24th and 31st December. It is closed on Mondays and 1st January, good Friday, 1st May, and 25th December.

Pablo Picasso’s renowned work, ‘Guernica”, was exhibited in the Prado upon its return to Spain after the restoration of democracy, but was moved to the Museo Reina Sofia in 1992 as part of a transfer of all works later than the early 19th Century to other buildings for space reasons. You need at least half a day to do this very impressive art gallery justice.

Entrance is 6 €. Children (under 18 yrs), adults over 65 and unemployed enter free of charge. On Sundays, and on 18th May, 12th October and 6th December, entrance is free for all visitors.