The Gate to Glen Nevis - Walking from Ft William...

Though not always universally admired as one of the best places in the Highlands to visit - Fort William is an extremely important gateway town to and in the highlands of Scotland. Regardless of where you are going, it is not unlikely that you will at least pass through this town at some point or another.

As such, Fort William is a place I have been and through many times since I came to Scotland. It sits just north of what is quite possibly my favourite place in all of Scotland, Glencoe, and is the stopping point for so many destinations either heading north, south, or west.

As you can easily see on the map if you are planning your route into the highlands from any of the lowland cities, the A82 from Glasgow or the A84 from Edinburgh all lead in one fairly direct line north towards Fort William.

The town itself - though not generally admired as much as some of the other northern towns for it's beauty - still has a lot to offer, and is not altogether unpleasant. As you drive in the one way road to Fort William, coming right out of the dramatic hillsides of Glencoe and surrounding highlands you pass Loch Linnhe on one side, serene and generally speckled with sailing and fishing boats out for the day. Some of the nicest weather I've ever seen in the highlands was on an August morning in Fort William, and the sailors take advantage of this.

On the right side of the road you are greeted into the town by line after line of nice old townhouses, most of which have been converted into bed and breakfasts for those visiting and passing through - many of which offer a very good rate for the quality of stay you get. This is a very nice strip and with in easy walking distance of 'down town' Fort William or the town's High Street.

There are some less than attractive areas of town, due largely to the by-pass and some ill conceived cement building projects most likely undertaken in the '70's. Still though, the High Street itself is a beautifully maintained little street, all pedestrianized and easy to wander and explore while visiting the town.

There is a good selection of shops and restaurants, and there are often events happening in town. Not to mention that those who come to Fort William as a stop over on the way into the greater outdoors of Glen Nevis, and the West Highland Way will find their outdoor supply needs amply met at the large selection of outdoor and camping supply stores in the town centre.

Quick Tips:

What ever you might think of the looks or feel of Fort William itself, it is important to remember that Fort William is largely a stopping point for all that surrounds it, and in that it does very well.

As mentioned above the shopping and restaurant selection is very adequate to pamper yourself with before heading out into the wet of the Scottish hill country. A friendly, family run B&B can be extremely appreciated by those who are about to be pitching a tent in the rain for many nights in a row. Or even just for the climber who has a long day of deeply uncertain weather ahead for the climb of Ben Nevis, the highest peak in Britain. (Located just north east of Fort William)
The walking paths around Fort William are not only abundant, but some of the most peaceful and beautiful I've been to in Scotland. It does need to be mentioned here, though, that if you do want to do these hikes you should keep in mind the weather you will get in Scotland year round. But even in the summer where the weather is statistically more likely to be pleasant - there will be a lot of other walkers who have the same idea. It's not the most remote of places to hike - and in the summer you are likely to share walking paths with more than a few other hikers. Not that this is a bad thing - the paths aren't always the easiest, and the weather rarely accommodating, so those who undertake these paths are often in the right spirit of things.

There are also some beautiful memorials in the area, like the Commando Memorial, perched just north of Fort William - with an astonishing view of the Nevis peaks.

I highly recommend - even if you are just passing through - that you have a look at the Fort William area of Undiscovered Scotland (http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/index.html)
For ideas of the specifics of what all there is to do in the area, and what events may be happening while you are there.

There are a lot of Highland games happening in the area in the summer - both big and small - and that is an interesting site to partake in if you are lucky enough to catch one.

I do recommend that you take a stroll through the centre of Fort William, even if just passing through, as it is a nice and friendly place at its centre. The road leading you around and out of Fort William shows it's less than flattering side. There is always a bit of a buzz to the High Street, due largely to the enthusiasm and excitement of those wandering the streets with weighted down rucksacks and tents, about to attempt the walks or the highest peak in Britain.

Best Way To Get Around:

I highly recommend that you drive to Fort William if at all possible - purely for the sights you can see along the way and for the fact that you can stop at any point to enjoy the scenery or take photographs - something I promise you will want to do often on the road north.

But if you must take public transport, it is available into the city centre from either Edinburgh or Glasgow for a reasonable fare, and once into the Fort William walking around is extremely easy.

It is not a large town; you can easily walk around the centre in half an hour. Even if you do drive in, you should park in one of the car parks or at your hotel/B&B and then do all the exploring of the place on foot. This is pretty mandatory in many cases anyway as the High Street is completely pedestrianized, and perfect for wandering.

I also recommend you walk around the shores of Loch Linnhe. The sail boats on it and the dramatic green hills in the background make for a beautiful and peaceful scene. Not to mention that there are some great seafood restaurants perched on its shores. I recommend you pop into The Crannog on the shore and have some amazing sea food - or even just a coffee to sip on the dock outside and watch the Loch.

Getting out to Glen Nevis can be a bit trickier for those with out their own transportation. It’s only a few minute drive in a car, but walking could take a fair while. The road to Glen Nevis seems to be littered with hitch hikers and their packs - all heading for the trails and the peaks. You might want figure this into your travel plans if you will be walking from Fort William.

The road from Fort William doesn't just connect it to the Glens and the southern and northern bit of the country - but also to the western Peninsulas and islands. The A830 leading west out of Fort William will take you to the very remote and picturesque areas of Mallaig, Acharacle, or even to catch the ferry to the Isle of Skye.
It should be noted, here, though, that the roads heading west are not only remote but extremely windy. I highly recommend you add at least one hour, possibly two to whatever amount of time you assume it will take. Especially the farther west you go, as many of the roads turn to one lane.

The Beechwood Bed and Breakfast in Fort William is the perfect example of the Scottish family run B&B. As you drive into the town of Fort William, you pass a long line of beautiful old town houses, virtually all of which have now been converted into hotels or bed and breakfasts. This makes the selection for where to stay in the area plentiful.
About half way up you find The Beechwood, a beautiful and quaint place just ten minutes walk from the centre of Fort William's High Street and directly across from the beautiful Loch Linnhe.
If you have booked this hotel online - you will almost certainly miss it as you drive along the first time. Don’t' worry, though, it does exist! Ashburn Lane is a little side road that almost looks like a drive way heading up along side some of the other B&Bs. You may have to circle more than once to find it. But it is worth it when you do.

Just a short distance up and the first place on the left is The Beechwood - beautifully done up in wood and stone.
There is a small parking lot for those who have driven, though you won't need the car for exploring the town. The walk into it is short and very pleasant indeed. You can see Loch Linnhe from the driveway - and it's a wonderful thing to wake up to in the morning.

The Beechwood itself is a very comfortable and pleasant place to stay. With an average cost of £45 per night, it's not budget accommodation, but it's averagely priced for the area.

It is a very family run establishment - you share the house with the family, though they are only apparent and very welcoming when coming and going. Once in your room you are in your own area of the house and feel as snug as in any hotel.

The rooms are very comfortable and beautifully decorated. The one we stayed in had an en suite bathroom which was roomy and impeccably clean.

There is little I can think of that does not recommend this B&B. The location is brilliant, the welcome superb. The rooms were all you would hope for in a cozy B&B, and all the little touches that make for a nice stay (towels, tea, and pamphlets on the area) were there in abundance.

There is a large selection of B&Bs to choose from in the Fort William area, but I would happily revisit the Beechwood on other visits.

There is a lot to say about the little local seafood restaurant called The Crannog, located in Fort William - but above all else it must be said that here is the essence of self-sufficiency, efficiency, and freshness - all wrapped up into a wonderfully packaged bundle.

Rather well known nationwide in food circles for its smokehouse which not only provides food for their wonderful restaurant, but also for other parts of the country as far away as London.
Established in the early 80's by a local fisherman, this place is the very essence of 'local food.' And they know how to do it well. It is known for some of the finest seafood on the west coast - all caught, prepared and cooked right there.

Situated right on the town pier in Fort William, with a spectacular view out over Loch Linnhe. They even do local cruises leaving from the town pier - cruising the waters of the area where all your wonderful food was sourced, and even going out to Seal Island for the chance to see both common and grey seals in the water.

The menu is rather spectacular, and is updated regularly - so pop up and have a look if you are in the area. The main courses average about £15 - some are as cheap as £9, and some as expensive as £20, so it's not top end pricing.

Still if you are on a budget and just want to sample the experience of a Scottish seafood restaurant perched on the pier of a beautiful Loch at sunset - feel free to stop in for one of their beautiful starters, deserts, or even coffees to sit and enjoy at the outdoor seating directly on the pier.

The atmosphere of the place is spectacular, with out being overly formal or stuffy. It is a family friendly restaurant, and can be suitable for what ever the occasion. A nice night out would be perfectly suited to the Crannog, and yet you're not going to feel too out of place if you come wandering up from your trek up Ben Nevis still covered in the wet and grit of the day to sit on one of the tables on the pier. (As I did)

This is one of my favourite highland restaurants, and I hope to visit it again soon - (hopefully next time not quite so dirty from hiking...) and enjoy more of their incredible menu.

The other restaurant I am reviewing for the town of Fort William is No 4.
Situated just off the High Street of Fort William, in easy walking distance from the pier, Loch Linnhe, and the centre of town this restaurant sits in a quiet nook off the high street and is a very nice spot for a nice meal.

I should mention right up front, that where the Crannog - despite it's nice decor and wonderful food - can cater to those who have been hiking all day with it's useful outdoor tables, No 4 is not that kind of a restaurant.

After spending an entire day driving and hiking around Glen Nevis and the highlands, my friends and I decided to go out for a steak for my birthday. The cheap camping food was wearing thin, and as it was a special occasion we decided to splash out just that little bit. But being unfamiliar with Fort William town we simply walked around until we found a place that looked nice, with a good menu.

And No 4 certainly has that. The place is nice - if rustically decorated. You really feel in the heart of Highland tradition sitting in its stone walled rooms waiting for a table. But it also does come across as a little bit stuffy. I must admit I was extremely uncomfortable sitting waiting to be seated still with hiking boots on and my face unwashed. This is not the place to stop if you've not had time to freshen up.

But - on the other hand if you are looking for somewhere very nice to sit in a beautiful and convenient setting for a nice meal you could do much worse.

We were seated in the back sun room area - with a nice view of the outside from our seat. Even in the summer the restaurant was nearly empty so we had a quiet meal to ourselves. The food is all very local and Scottish - but I found it a bit pricey for what it was. Though there were some very tasty sounding dishes on the menu, my steak was less than perfect, being over cooked and over all lacking.

Having said this, however, I have heard that the place has recently undergone new management, which has improved the menu. It is still not cheap - and tends towards being a bit pricey now - but the quality of food is supposed to be very good indeed.

I can only give this restaurant three stars based on my experience of it - but if you do want a nice venue and some very locally prepared food, you may want to wander up while in town and have a look at the menu for yourself.

As I have already mentioned, Fort William area is somewhere you seem to always make your way through when either entering or leaving the highlands. So often I have gone somewhere in the highlands, and though it was never the plan - find myself happily driving back through Fort William and Glencoe on my way home.

And yet - in all the times I have done this, since my first visit in 2003 - I had never seen the Commando Memorial before my last visit in July.

This is a truly remarkable occurrence, and really says something about the vastness of the landscape, and all that there is to see in the area in passing for me to have missed such a profound monument.

On my latest visit to Fort William, I was hoping to get up to Ben Nevis (a feat that has still escaped me, though I intend to rectify it before leaving these shores in April) and so was in more of a hurry than usual. Coming down from Inverness and some hard core photographing of Lochs, crags, and general highland landscape I had put away my camera and put my hat over my eyes and was attempting to get some shut eye before arriving at the peak.
But as it is prone to do in Scotland, the weather turned just outside of Fort William, and I sat up to have my sandwich and decide whether or not to persevere with the climb.

And it was then that we came over the hill on the A82 and saw before us the Commando Memorial.
It was so profound, sitting there in front of all the Nevis peaks as a storm rolled in that I told my friend we had to turn around immediately.
After what seemed like an age (I think we made it all the way into Fort William before finding a place to turn around, so if you are wanting to stop here, keep a close eye out and be prepared to turn as soon as you see it) we made our way back and up to the memorial.

All thoughts of climbing for the day vanished and the camera came swiftly back out of its case.
This is a truly powerful monument. Built in 1952 by Scott Sutherland in tribute of the elite units that trained in the area during World War 2. Done in Bronze, the soldiers stand at the ready, facing the far peaks. Even if you are not primarily interested in photography - or memorials - this is one to see and photograph. The setting could not be more perfectly profound. And even if you are more interested in the peaks - there is a wonderful compass set up near the monument which points them out to you and their distance.
This is a wonderful sight, and a great place to stop off and have a picnic lunch before heading on, either south into Fort William and Glen Nevis - or North farther into the highlands.

Just a few minutes outside of Ft William is the true heart of the reason people visit the area. The wonderfully walkable, and picturesque hiking trails of Glen Nevis.

A short drive north from Glencoe up the A82 and along side Loch Linnhe you arrive in the town of Ft William. This is a fantastic place to stay in if you have completed the Glencoe hikes and activities and are ready to move on farther north. If however, you are just looking for some local walks to do with in driving distance, you can not get much better than the hikes in Glen Nevis.

After several days of being on the west coast of Scotland in the highlands, getting more than my fill or rain and cloudy, low lit photos, I was ecstatic to wake up to a morning of bright, brilliant blue skies and a bit of warmth. We headed out early, after a brief look around Ft William, scouting out places to eat for the afternoon and headed out into Glen Nevis.

I would recommend having a car if you only want to do the trail in segments, or just to climb Ben Nevis... but if you are hiking it properly, you won't be alone. There are plenty of others on foot that you will see along the way. (There's also a good selection of hostels and caravan--camper--parks along this way. All in all it is very hiker friendly.)

The Glen itself is stunning, even just driving through it's a wonder of dramatic, verdant hills and peaks with pristine little valleys. It's really difficult to remember that just a few hours away lies Glasgow and Edinburgh... it seems like an entirely different world up there.

There are a variety of hiking options; the one I found the most satisfying was the hike To Steall Falls. The trails and hikes are all completely and easily customizable depending on the time you have and the level of intensity you want in this particular hike.

I think it's a good idea to start at the Lower Falls, a beautiful, beautiful spot for picnicking or just relaxing if you feel so inclined. And then head up north towards Steall Falls. It's a very pleasant hike... nothing too taxing, but it does get you out into the Glen. In the middle of summer, on a rare and beautiful day it wasn't too crowded. There were people all along the trail, and a group of about 20 odd made it to the falls while we were there, but it's a big place and it never felt crowded or touristy. It's one of my favourite walks, and one I could do over again. And what an amazing view!