A Local's Essential Scottish Castle Tour...

In any visit to the British Isles, a visit to a castle or two ranks pretty highly on most people's To Do Lists. And rightly so - in these small islands reside some of the most beautiful, ornate, and unique castles and ruins of anywhere in the world. England boasts amazing cathedrals, Wales can claim they have more castles per square mile than any other country - and Scotland, well; Scotland has its world renowned Castle Trail.

The problem with all this excess in what we travellers from the new world countries find so intoxicating is that it is very difficult to know where to begin, what to see, and what to give a miss. My very first trip to Europe was a rush tour of 7 countries in 16 days. As you may be able to imagine, the idea of looking around another pre-planned castle tour by the end of that time was near nauseating. And it is true that as international flights become cheaper and travelling around the world more feasible - many people set off to 'see' places like Scotland on their one week off for the year.

It often seems hard for the European traveller to grasp what exactly it is you could manage to see in a country like Britain - so packed full of historical sights - in a week to ten days. But as an American expat to these shores, I know that some times a week is all you have - and in that time you must make the best of it.

So in this review I have set out to lay out the pluses and minuses of the Scottish castles. Which ones you must see if you are visiting the highlands or the lowlands - and which to get in if you have time.

The Scottish castle trail is becoming rather famous, a trail of castles lay out in a brochure that you can take bus tours to. But not every visitor to these isles wants to see something so poignant and filled with history led by the hand and with 40 other tourists at their back. For those I have created alternate routes and remote castles to visit at your leisure.

If, you are happy to take the standard tour route - there are some wonderful castles there as well. I will review both sets of castles in this journal - which will perhaps help the undecided traveller narrow down just what kind of trip to Scotland they would like to make.

For an idea what the Scottish Castle Trail is like, and to see a map of the castles in Scotland visit http://www.visitscotland.com/ which is also very useful for other travelling information.

Quick Tips:

There are over 250 castles in Scotland - ranging from the big dynamic sights like Edinburgh and Stirling Castles, sitting above their cities with a view for miles around down to walls or rubble that used to represent the sight of a castle.

This is a big number to contemplate for some one who wants to see as much of Scottish history as possible in a few short days - or even months.

Having been in Scotland now for almost 6 years, as a photographer and a lover of Scottish history I've had a fair amount of time to explore some of these castles and hope to give an idea of what each has to offer.

If you are happy to do the bus tours of the castles (which I am not condemning - these tours can be very cost efficient, convenient, and informative. They are especially good if you are coming with a family or have small children. Every castle tour I have ever been on has been very informative, friendly - and offered pretty good value for money.)There are very simple and easy ways to find out how to book one. From Edinburgh, simply ask your hotel for brochures, they will almost certainly have them. If they do not - they can be picked up easily enough on the Royal Mile from the many companies who advertise such trips. These often leave right from the city centre of Edinburgh and come back either the same day or several days later depending on how much you would like to see, and how much money you want to spend. These can be a very effective way of seeing the most important castles in the least amount of time.

If you want to go a slightly more remote route of your own choosing, go into any travel information centre in any city or village and ask for a 'Historic Scotland' map or brochure. This will give you a photographic lay out of some of the local castles, their history - and a map of where they are in the country. This is great for planning your own tour - as there are so many castles in any area that you can add them in to a tour of other things you want to see in a particular area. If you are only in the country for a short time, I recommend this approach rather than trying to set off all over the country to see the most important ones. Pick a region of the country and see its best castles and what the area has to offer.

Best Way To Get Around:

If you like the idea of a tour - the buses are very good. The tour size may be large - but in general you can get a pleasant ride up to some of the highland or lowland castles by a driver who knows the route and can therefore make a lot of sight seeing available in a short amount of time. This is particularly good if you are not comfortable with driving on the other side of the road - or the difference in foreign road rules.

This is an easy, and fairly stress free way to get up and see the castles.

If you want to be a bit more adventurous then I highly recommend you have your own car. There are plenty of rental companies in the cities where your flight will likely arrive - and the cost of these are generally not too expensive. (Try easycar.com if you just want a car for a day - they offer some very cheap rates for short term car hire, as well as some longer rentals)

This will make the entire experience a lot more freeing, and open up all the castle and sight seeing possibilities of Scotland to you. Though some castles you may be able to reach by public transportation - many are on the outskirts of cities or towns - or far in the midst of nowhere and not easy to reach with out your own transportation.

You will have to consider the cost of gas (petrol) here in the British Isles, as it is one of the most expensive places for it in the world - but it is also worth mentioning that cars here are largely very fuel efficient (this goes for many rental cars as well) and many things are with in a few hours driving time of each other.

Edinburgh Castle is the first to list on our castle trail for more than one reason. As a resident of the city of Edinburgh - I don't think I'm overly biased in choosing it as one of the most spectacular castles in Scotland. One of the most spectacular castles in the world, in fact.

But more than that, I list this castle first as it is one of the easiest and most likely castle for a visitor to Scotland to see. If you are flying or driving into Edinburgh, you can not help but see the huge and imposing castle - perched atop its rocky base as you drive in. If you do fly into the city, I highly recommend the shuttle bus from the airport - not only is it quick and easy to use, but gives an awesome view of the castle driving in from the west end of Princes Street.

Even if you are coming into Glasgow - the chances are good you will be in Edinburgh at some point during your trip - and from there, like everything else in this little city, seeing the castle is very easy.

After a short walk up to castle hill along what is known as The Royal Mile (you can't miss it, it's where all the souvenir shops are) you arrive directly at the castle gates. The fee for this castle is, I believe, a bit high. The general rate at the castle is £11.00 for adults and £5.50 for children. When you translate this cost into dollars it gets quite pricey.

But because I believe this is one of the greatest castles in Scotland - there is another route for those not happy to spend that much money to go inside and walk around the castle.
In my humble opinion, the outside is the best part of Edinburgh castle at any rate. Walk up the Royal Mile and you can mill happily around castle gate with a wonderful and very picturesque view (minus all the tourists) of the castle. There is also a wonderful view of the city from two sides here.

But if the weather is permitting - I highly recommend that you do the 'castle walk' which leads down around the front of the castle, and clear up to castle gate or around the back. In the spring and early summer the hill around the castle is covered with daffodils, making for a beautiful spectacle against the back drop of such a commanding fortress. Many locals stroll the path where there are benches or grassy spots to stop and have a picnic or just relax if you choose. This walk is free and starts just across from the museums on the mound.

I highly recommend you take this route (weather permitting) even if you do want to pay the price to get in and see the interior of the castle.

There is also a wonderful view from the top of the Scott Monument (the wonderful gothic monument on Princes Street) which is also something that should be done on a trip to Edinburgh. For £3 you can make your way to the very top - which gives a breath taking view of the city.

Also note when you are in town around 1:00 - the cannon fires from the castle there every day.

Despite not having quite the grandeur of Edinburgh castle, the tales of St Andrews, the mystery of Eilean Donan, and the poignancy of Donnottar - that is not to say that Stirling is a lesser Scottish castle.
On the contrary - it has a beauty, story, and history all of it's own as well as its own benefits.

Stirling Castle sits right in the middle of what tourists know as 'Braveheart Country.' With in sight of the astounding Wallace Monument perched high in the hills across the valley - and in sight of the distant highland hills. It is often said that the hills around Stirling are the gateway to the highlands - and this really becomes apparent as you drive from the lowlands into these suddenly dramatic hills.


If you do make the hike up to the Wallace Monument outside of Stirling, (and I highly recommend that you do) one of the things that will catch your eye in the distance is the stunningly poised Stirling Castle. It sits in the distance atop a volcanic rock (much like Edinburgh Castle) seen for miles around.

There are no shortages of castles to visit while in Scotland, but this is one of my top-five favourites. Not only is there an awful lot of history tied up in this castle, but the views of, and from, it are really breathtaking. The moody blues and grays of a Scottish sky add something to the drama of this castle that is an unmissable photographic opportunity.

This castle is particularly good for its tour - if a good castle tour is what you are after. Not only do you get to wander at your leisure through some of the castle grounds and rooms, including sitting briefly on the Scottish throne - but the guide is extremely informative and worth the extra money spent.
There is a fee that may seem quite pricey for visiting the inside of this castle (£8.50 for adults, £3.50 for children), and though I generally opt out of these things, this was one I did pay for, and I am pleased that I did. The tour guide I had was maybe the best one I've ever experienced, with a proper flare for storytelling and a thick Scottish accent to color the tale. There is a lot to know about Stirling Castle, and I'm very pleased I paid the price and got to learn it while wandering around and taking photos.

However, if the price is a little bit steep for you, it is still very worthwhile to wander up to the castle (or even just drive around it), see it, and take some really great photos of Stirling and the castle itself.

The one downside of Stirling is the abomination of the restored area of the castle (visible from the Wallace Monument) as a whitewashed Disney-style area surrounded by the beautiful old stone of the original building. A shame, for certain, but the castle still managed to keep its integrity and remains one of my favourite Scottish castles.

The castle is open year-round, 7 days a week, except for Christmas Day and Boxing Day. Generally the castle closes at 5 or 6pm, depending on the time of year when you visit. This is an excellent pit stop to make while visiting Scotland.

For those visiting the Scottish country side with fond memories of Braveheart (and I include myself in that category) then this is a castle you must see. Not just for its great tour and wonderful views, but for the rich history it is surrounded by. The great battles of Falkirk were fought only a few miles away - and the beauty of this area is not to be missed.

It is also worth mentioning that it is only a short distance from the main cities (a little over an hour from Edinburgh - possibly two from Glasgow depending on the traffic) which makes it very easy to get to either by car or by bus tour. There is also easy public transport into Stirling, making the walk up to the castle an easy one.

Though the lowland castles aren't always quite as dramatic as the highland ruins and stately castles and the grandeur of old stone battlements hanging precariously on the edge of rocky cliffs, St. Andrews Castle easily holds its own.

Located right on the shore in the well known, well touristed town of St Andrews (practically a golfing mecca) lies this castle ruin that has one of the nicest walking views of any castle in Scotland.

Aside from its stunningly beautiful profile - with the castle rising up out over the edge of the cliffs with the sea crashing into it, and the hills of the lowlands in the distance - this was the place of some of the more important events in Scottish history. Like all of St. Andrews, the castle which houses its bishops became the centre point for a lot of religious activity in Scotland, and being such, was the target of many invasions during the wars of Independence.

The remains of this castle which was used as the main residence for bishops and archbishops of St. Andrews as early as 1200 AD still stand amazingly picturesque on the edge of the coastline on the shores of St. Andrews.

What remains of the castle today is not the original structure, it has been rebuilt many times over the years through various wars and invasions. The structure still standing was probably built around 1400. But that in no way diminishes the feel of antiquity that is impossible to miss in the remaining stone, and when you see its location and solid building it is easy to see that it was built with 'defending itself' in mind.

In my time in the British Isles I've had the opportunity to see, visit, and photograph many castles. Some spectacular and other's fairly ordinary. If for nothing but the surrounding setting and the stunning outline, I would have to rank St. Andrews high on my list of most beautiful Scottish castles.

As most other attractions in St. Andrews, it too caters nicely to those with or without a budget for spending. Some castles, I have found, are hardly worth driving to if you can't afford to get in, as the view is obscured or simply not worth photographing. But St. Andrews is perfectly set up to enjoy - even if you can't afford (or are not inclined to pay) the entrance fee. Having said that, it is a very reasonable fee of £5, (and for £7 you can gain entrance to both the castle and the cathedral, which is very reasonable indeed.)

The immense history of the place may well leave you intrigued to see the detailed interior of the castle, but if not it is still very easy to enjoy from its Eastward view on the costal path.
Stroll through the ruins of St. Andrew's cathedral and graveyards until you come to a path on the left hand side of the wall. Step out onto a walking path that runs the length of the coast down to the stone pier.
A quick glance to your left and you can see the stunning profile of these castle remains. Take photos until your heart is content!
This is a stunning spot, and easily worth a stroll to see.

Slains is a very different, extremely unique castle in this review. And as I have already stated, ends up as one of my many 'favourite' Scottish Castles. For this one, it is my favourite 'haunted' castle, though there are no ghost tours that run through it, or particular ghost stories that surround it.

Slains is a lonely ruin, on the north east coast of Scotland on the shore with the North Sea. It is rarely mentioned in travel guides or castle tours, and even my husband who is Scottish had never heard of it until I stumbled onto a picture of it and demanded we make our next trip there.


It too is steeped in so much history I would hardly know where to begin to recount it.

But Slains castle is different from most other Scottish castles or ruins I have visited, and it is for this quality that I rate it so highly in places you should see if you get the chance.

Slains castle is perched in a completely remote little corner of north east Scotland. I heard about it only by chance (my Scottish friends who all pride themselves on their castle knowledge had never even heard of it.) I happened to see a few pictures of the ruins, and also heard that there were plans for renovating this and turning it into accommodation. (apparently plans were approved in 2006, and though at this time it still stands as it is, you should see it as soon as possible to make sure you don’t' show up to another sea side hotel)

I instantly marked it very high on my list of things to see in Scotland, and planned it into my next trip - despite it being decidedly out of the way.

A little more than an hour north of Aberdeen on the coast - just a few minutes from the village of Cruden Bay, it’s not an especially lengthy drive. Still, it is very remote farmland you are driving through to find it, and about half way through you do start wondering if it is worth the trouble to see yet another castle.

The resounding answer to that question is - Yes. Persevere - the ruins that await you at the end of the trail are unlike anything else.

It's not an easy castle to find. It is not a Scottish Heritage Site, and there for there are no real sign posts or markings for it. We circled the area several times before finally stopping to ask a local farmer where the castle was. Incidentally - it lies at the end of a long, bumpy dirt track leading into a field. (If you are in a simple rental car, or any low built car don't try to make it down the path. Just park by the road and walk. It's about a 20 minute walk to the shore, but a very nice one.)

The ruins sit, untouched on the cliffside. There is no fee to get in, no tourist guides of any kind. There isn't even a sign to let you know you are there. But the eerie feel and quiet of the place is unmistakable.

We spent over an hour wandering around the ruins, and only a local walking their dog joined us in that time. The history surrounding Slains is somewhat violent and tragic - and you really feel that in its stones. A very unique, wonderful and haunting place. There is an overwhelming feeling of time, and ages past here - it has the distinct feeling of being forgotten, and it's an experience you should not pass up if given the chance.

The castle called Eilean Donan - perched on the west coast of Scotland on the Kyle of Lochalsh - just a short distance from the Isle of Skye is a strange combination of the more remote highland castles I have previously reviewed, and the more accessible touristed castles of the lowlands.

The chances are that you've seen Eilean Donan castle, even if you didn't know it. Especially if you've been in Scotland for more than a few days. It adorns post cards, calendars, and all manner of travel brochures for Scotland and the highlands. It is one of the most photographed castles in the world, and the most well recognized in Scotland - as well as in other parts of the world.
And there is good reason for this. It is perched beautifully on the edge of a where three lochs meet near the sea - making for a breathtaking setting for its back ground. The wonderful northern Scottish light works as a perfect back drop, and the castle sits - almost as if it were posing - amidst this unbelievable scenery.

As a photographer - I deeply appreciate the aesthetics of this castle, and can completely understand why it has earned the title of 'most photographed castle in Scotland.' (Though many would claim that title goes well beyond its home country)

Depending on your point of view, and what you enjoy - there is the possible downside that this particular castle has become quite touristy in recent times. It's a shame, and a bit baffling, actually. Especially if you are driving yourself and have just spent the last four hours driving through the beautiful nothing that fills the western Scottish Highlands through Kintail and all the way down near empty roads to reach this remote castle. To arrive to find its parking lot filled with tour buses and tourists can be a bit off putting, especially given all the castles you can visit in Scotland only sharing it with one or two other travellers.

However - unless you avoid these tourist areas - I wouldn't suggest you let it put you off. Yes- it loses something of its age and majesty by the post card vendors at the end of the bridge leading towards the castle. But it is still an amazing sight, and one of Scotland's finer sights to be seen. And if you have any photographic interests then you must see it.

And the tourism has been handled well, I must say. There is a gift shop, but it is located well away from the actual castle and the staff are friendly and knowledgeable. The inside of the castle is impeccably kept, and gives a better idea of what life may have been like in such a place than any other castle tour I have taken.

The castle admission also is only £4.95 for adults, which is a very reasonable amount for what is a very good tour. And you are not guided through, but get to wander the castle and grounds at your leisure - even seeing the kitchen set up as it would have been. It's quite an experience, and in this case I do highly recommend you pay the small fee and go inside the castle.
The hours run every day from 10 - 6, including the gift shop, coffee shop and tourist information centre.

This is a truly beautiful castle, and a wonderful part (if not my favourite part) of Scotland to drive through to reach it.