Aswan has long been Egypt's gateway to Africa. Situated near the historic First Cataract of the Nile, the rapids beyond which uninterrupted sailing was impossible, it formed a natural limit to Pharaonic rule. South, the darker-skinned
Nubians stood guard over the lucrative trade routes into the heart of the continent. It was in the environs of Aswan that gold, slaves, treasure and exotic animals were imported to Egypt, for transportation upriver. Aswan then was pretty much the world's first 'border post'.
Although modern Egypt now stretches well beyond the High Dam, Aswan still owes its glories to its position. The
Nubian Museum, an unmissable first-stop on arrival in Aswan tells the story of the intertwined Egyptian and Nubian peoples to put the sights into context. The upper hand in this relationship fluctuated over time. The west bank is dotted with the tombs of the nobles who guarded the realm from incursions from Nubia. And at the tip of Lake Nasser to the south stands Ramses II's egotistical temple to himself at
Abu Simbel. Constructed at the apogee of Pharaonic power it was designed to awe his Nubian vassals. Today it is a must-see attraction, and now it is tourists who stand awe-struck gazing at the colossal representations of Ramses.
A millenium later external rulers sponsored the development of the Isis temple complex on
Philae Island, just outside the modern town limits, as part of their attempts to spread their control over the entire country. Rescued from the waters of Lake Nasser, the columns and kiosks of Philae are the images of Aswan to this day.
With the decline of the Egyptian nation and its sublimation into a mere province of a wider Muslim umma (community) that looked either east to Mecca or north to Constantinople rather than south to Africa Aswan lapsed into a backwater of the Nile. It took more external nation-builders to recognise its place as a historic border town (graffiti by French and British soldiers can be seen amongst the ruins). Under British rule Aswan was once more a military staging-post against the Mahdi's followers in Sudan, visited by soldiers of the calibre of Generals Gordon and Kitchener (and a young officer named Winston Churchill). The twentieth century saw the 'taming' of Egypt through damming of the Nile, and the opening up of this exotic town as a genteel resort, as personified by the historic Old Cataract Hotel. Again, it was Aswan's location at the farthest navigable point of the Nile that brought it such prominance.
There is not a whole heap to Aswan, which remains a neat little town (even the souk is pretty tame). However, as the gateway to Philae, Abu Simbel, Nubian communities, and cruises down the Nile to Luxor its status is assured.
Quick Tips:
As I say, there is not that much to Aswan. The heart of town, from train station to Nubian Museum cannot be more than three kilometers long, and it is probably only three or four streets wide. The outlying areas of town would be of little interest to tourists.
As one would expect of a border-town, it is the location that makes Aswan special. There are fewer things finer than strolling the Corniche as the sun sinks over the river. This street is, for Egypt, sparkling - nicely paved, swept every evening, and with an outstanding panorama across
the Nile to the barren hills dotted with tombs opposite. Floating restaurants line the banks, at considerably better prices than in central Cairo. A meal here on the water provides an unforgettable memory. I can recommend
Salah al-Din for food, drinks, and shisha. For a different type of meal, try to get invited to a meal by a
Nubian family. Considering the amounts of home-cooked food you are served, these often work out very good value, even if you discount the thrill of sailing upstream to their village.
Ancient quarries of Aswan granite (and the famous 'Unfinished Obelisk') lie to the east of town. Tombs and monasteries lie to the west. The chief attractions are to the south and north along the river though.
First to the south is the island temple of Isis at Philae, which is not to be missed - and certainly not if you have kids, who will love the boat ride to get there. Getting to Abu Simbel is much trickier and either involves a pricey flight, or a three-hour road trip before dawn. However Ramses II's vainglorious temples there are one of the greatest sights in Egypt, and I would encourage you to visit.
To the north the entireity of Egypt is spread out along the Nile. You can often arrange three-day tours by river to
Luxor, stopping at the ruins of Kom Ombo and Edfu en route. The delight of lazing as you watch the fabled banks slipping past you cannot be overstated. And river travel still seems to be the easiest way of travelling this route, free from the pettyfogging restrictions on land traffic.
Best Way To Get Around:
You don't really need transport within Aswan per se. The distance from the Nubian Museum to most anywhere is really strolling distance. I accept that you would not want to do that in the middle of the day though! You are certain to be accosted by quite horrifically aggressive caleche drivers, trying to tempt you into riding in one of their horse-drawn carriages. Taxis are reasonably priced - from my hotel to the Museum cost three of us E£20 (around 50p each in British money). You will need to book transport to Abu Simbel in advance, as the authorities want to know which tourists are where at any one time.
Getting to Aswan from Cairo can be a pain. I was booked on the
overnight sleeper train. The journey is scheduled to take 13 hours, but that is approximate - our journey took 14.5 hours. I would really recommend getting a sleeper compartment. While the seats in shared carriages are comfy, the footrests really get in the way. Furthermore, the lights are left on all night, menaing that I was only able to snatch four hours of kip (and normally I can sleep anywhere!). Still, some of the scare stories I had heard did not come true - the ticket inspector did not pass through continually checking my paperwork all night, the breakfast (paid for in advance) was perfectly decent, and the toilets were clean (if a bit pongy).
Really, river-travel is the way to go. Essentially there are three types of boat to transport you down the Nile. Top of the range are the gigantic
cruiseships, with all the amenities you would expect from a big hotel - bars, dining rooms, shops, private berths, sundecks, possibly even a pool. I hopped on board one to use the loo and was taken back by the marble lobbies and grand spiral staircases. The downsides are the expense, and the fact that they insulate you from Egypt somewhat.
The next step down are the
dahabiyas - ornate houseboats, the rivergoing equivalent of the Old Cataract. I can imagine hiring one of these as part of a family or group holiday. Here you get privacy (private rooms) but also more space in the form of terraces and decks. The downside? While they look fantastic with their polished wood and brass, the sails of all we passed were furled - instead they were towed upriver by a noisily puttering tug, smoke wafting across the river.
I travelled by
felucca, a single-masted sailboat without amenities. There are no cabins, only a single shaded deck which is where you sleep. You are without toilets (you have to pull over to the banks and find a bush) or showers, or any sort of privacy. The only kitchen is a gas-powered stove. Yet here you scoot along just above the water, utilising wind and flow the same way Egyptians have for millenia. It is a very natural way of travelling, the best way of understanding the Nile.