Caution - Belgium Will Sneak-up On You - Bruges - IgoUgo Belgium Journal

Caution - Belgium Will Sneak-up On You - Bruges

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Belgium may be a small country, but it is a very wealthy economic powerhouse that is all to often neglected by the tourism merchants. About the size of Maryland in the US, the country has two distinct sections: Flanders in the North and Wallonia in the South. Flanders is Flemish-speaking (very close to Dutch) while the language of Wallonia is French. Much of Belgium is also quite fluent in English as well as German and French, depending on the region. As part of the "Low Countries," (The Netherlands, Belgium, Luxembourg and the Northwest of France), much of the Flanders part of Belgium is just above sea level. The Wallonia area of Belgium is hilly in spots and mountainous in others, with some flat are...Read More

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Bruges - Getting There

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Bruges - Getting there and St. Christopher's BauhausBruges is a favorite city of mine. It is a photographer’s paradise and a wanderer’s paradise in just about any kind of weather. I fell in love with Belgium in general, and Bruges in particular in the early 1960's. Even with the millions of demanding and spoiled tourists, the citizens of this city have so much patience with all of us, tourists and travelers alike, it defies logic. At least it defies my logic. People that I meet in hostels talk about Bruges almost as much as they do about Amsterdam, which is always a huge favorite. The comments I hear most often are how beautiful Bruges is, and how friendly the people are. B...Read More

Bruges - Getting there and St. Christopher's Bauhaus

Bruges is a favorite city of mine. It is a photographer’s paradise and a wanderer’s paradise in just about any kind of weather. I fell in love with Belgium in general, and Bruges in particular in the early 1960's. Even with the millions of demanding and spoiled tourists, the citizens of this city have so much patience with all of us, tourists and travelers alike, it defies logic. At least it defies my logic. People that I meet in hostels talk about Bruges almost as much as they do about Amsterdam, which is always a huge favorite. The comments I hear most often are how beautiful Bruges is, and how friendly the people are. Both are true. Also true is the really good behavior of tourists in this tourist-filled city. I don’t know why.

Bruges has a population of about 120,000 with about 25,000 living in the city center. Many hundreds more commute daily to the city center for their employment. To that, add three million tourists each year, hence the Bruges motto. The motto for Belgium is, "Unity Makes Strength." The Bruges motto is, "Don’t Drive In the City," or it should be.

I have visited Bruges three different times and always wish that I had planned better and allotted more time to this lovely city. Just wandering in the small side streets would take me at least a full day, if not two. I was in the city for two days and one night. I should have scheduled four days and three nights and I am planning that trip for next year. Also, Bruges was my tenth location in three weeks and I was pretty tired by the time. Definitely too many moves.

I stayed at St. Christopher’s Bauhaus which is located within a couple of blocks of a bus stop (the driver will told me when to get off and pointed me in the right direction). The right direction turned out to be through one of the city gates - Kruispoort. Before going through the gate, I noticed a lovely windmill 100 meters to my right and I returned early the next morning for pictures on both sides of the gate and the windmill. Anyway, I walked for a couple of blocks down Langstraat to the hostel which is well-managed and check-in was easy. There is a bar and restaurant that is part of the hostel and does a good business. I did not eat in the restaurant but others told me that it was quite good and far more reasonable than the downtown eateries. The included breakfast is served in the restaurant. Any Belgian beer is good.

I had a couple of very minor complaints about St. Christopher’s. One was that the staircase up to the third floor is narrow and it was difficult for me to manage with a suitcase. The dorms are quite small, but I spent very little time in the room. I was in a dorm that consisted of two rooms with three bunks in each room. Both the toilet and shower were close-by.

I do recommend St. Christopher’s Bauhaus. Its location is very good being close to a bus stop. I passed quite a few hostels walking into to city (10 minutes) and they would take longer to reach. My roller-bag and I were arguing constantly by that time. I think that I will return to St. Christopher’s in the future.

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Bruges - In Photographs

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First, Bruges is one of the most picturesque cities in Europe. It has been named a UNESCO World Heritage site for a reason. Also, the entire old city of Bruges has been awarded the honor, not just a few buildings, and there are a multitude of reasons for that. To say that it is picturesque is an understatement. In Bruges you can look in any direction and find a postcard waiting for your camera. It is difficult to find a spot that is not photogenic. I kid you not. Bruges is so photogenic that I seldom know when to quit taking pictures. In two days and one night I took 800 photographs! Early mornings evenings are wonderful with long shadows, while the middle of the day is also good for amateurs...Read More

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Bruges - At Night

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Bruges is a wonderful city at night. It is beautiful, romantic, stunning, tranquil, moody in the rain. It is an old city that will lower high blood pressure. It will make you sing and dance and even cry. Bruges will move you emotionally and will affect you in the most wonderful way. At least that was my experience. You don't need romantic restaurants or pubs. Those comforts are certainly there in abundance, but for those who cannot afford such luxuries, it doesn't matter.The city fathers of Bruges and local businesses have spent millions of euros in the design of the lighting of the city. It is very close to perfect and adds to the mood created by the lights of the shops and pubs. ...Read More

Bruges is a wonderful city at night. It is beautiful, romantic, stunning, tranquil, moody in the rain. It is an old city that will lower high blood pressure. It will make you sing and dance and even cry. Bruges will move you emotionally and will affect you in the most wonderful way. At least that was my experience. You don't need romantic restaurants or pubs. Those comforts are certainly there in abundance, but for those who cannot afford such luxuries, it doesn't matter.

The city fathers of Bruges and local businesses have spent millions of euros in the design of the lighting of the city. It is very close to perfect and adds to the mood created by the lights of the shops and pubs. The canals and bridges have or create stunning reflections that one can watch for hours as ducks or swans or the wind or a tourist tossing a pebble disturb the reflections, changing the mood in an instant. Slowly the serenity returns, and all is well. A tourist can't ask for more than that, and it's free. All one has to do is to meander along the canal. It is so inviting.

I spent a few hours doing what I just described. Because I didn't have a tripod I had to look for places that I could use to brace both me and the camera. While I was looking for such objects to use, I was distracted by a swan swimming. I watched that swan and the canal for over two hours. I sat on the side of one of the bridges and let Bruges take me wherever she wanted. I had absolutely no idea that I had been sitting on that bridge for so long, but I had a wonderful journey. I don't remember a time when I was so completely at peace.

Lacking a tripod, I was quite limited in the photographs that I was able to make. I needed a steady surface to set my camera on. Fortunately, I did find some stone benches and was able to get some photographs with minimal camera or photographer movement and I include the best ones here. In total, I spent more time sitting by the canal than I did taking pictures, but I am still satisfied with the results of both.

The photographs are labeled with the identity of the building. Some of the labels may be incorrect. I may have misidentified them on my voice recorder, or since it is almost 3:00 AM, I just screwed up. I apologize for any errors and will gladly make corrections as they become known to me.

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A Tale of Churches - Basilica of the Holy Blood

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Europe is blessed with the most amazing cathedrals, churches, and chapels, and nowhere in the world are there more beautiful churches than in Belgium. There are cities that have marvelous churches and abbeys, and while they may be close, for me, it's Belgium. Belgium has been a very wealthy country for hundreds of years and that financial wherewithal has allowed the construction and reconstruction of her religious institutions. The amazing art found in the houses of worship is due in part to the "deep pockets" of wealthy parishioners and church leaders. The Church, quite corrupt at times, was given art treasures and other valuables as well as plain, old, everyday cash for "Indulgences...Read More

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Church of our Lady

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Attraction | "A Tale of Churches - Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk"

The Michelangelo in Bruges Photo - Church of our Lady, Bruges, Belgium

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The "Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk " (Church of Our Lady) is on the canal and a short walk from the "Grote Markt" and the "Burg." There is a small bridge over the canal that leads to the back of the church. Built from the 13th to 15th century, the spire is 396 feet tall and is visible from miles away.Reaching the church via the above-mentioned bridge and coming in from the rear gives one the mistaken impression that the church is relatively new. While it has been renovated throughout its' history, and has a number of different styles, basically it is a Gothic building. Unlike the "Basilica of the Holy Blood," the "Church of Our Lady (which I have misidentified as the "Cathedral of ...Read More

The "Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk " (Church of Our Lady) is on the canal and a short walk from the "Grote Markt" and the "Burg." There is a small bridge over the canal that leads to the back of the church. Built from the 13th to 15th century, the spire is 396 feet tall and is visible from miles away.

Reaching the church via the above-mentioned bridge and coming in from the rear gives one the mistaken impression that the church is relatively new. While it has been renovated throughout its' history, and has a number of different styles, basically it is a Gothic building.

Unlike the "Basilica of the Holy Blood," the "Church of Our Lady (which I have misidentified as the "Cathedral of Our Lady" in places) is anything but plain. The church is stunning in every way and is famous for a Carrara marble sculpture by Michelangelo. Known world-wide as the only piece of his work that left Italy during the artist's lifetime, the "Madonna and Child" is a marvelous example of the great artist's work.

The sculpture's setting is no less impressive with two sculptures on each side and a Painting above. I saw people who were moved to tears by the sculpture and its presence almost close enough to touch. Others just stand in awe.

The church is large, it's huge, but it has such majesty and splendor that I don't think that it can be experienced in any other way but in person. The "Madonna and Child" are certainly part of that emotion, but the rest of the church has no understated opulence. The splendor almost knocks the viewer over as one scene is more beautiful than the next. Tour group leaders seem to have difficulty keeping their groups together. Visitors just seem to wander off, in many ways oblivious to everything but where their eves are looking. The best story that I can tell is about the leader of a tour group who walked in the entrance with her group following. She got quite a distance away from the group because two guests had just barely passed through the entrance when they stopped - dead. For a few seconds no one else could get in. That would be my definition of "awestruck."

Behind the High Alter is the church's Museum which is filled with centuries old vestments, chalices and other church pieces. There are two excavated crypts from priests who were buried in the 13th and 14th centuries Also in the museum are two bronze tomb sculptures of George the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, and his daughter, Mary of Burgundy. Between the tombs is another marvelous painting by Anthony van Dyke: The Crucifixion (see photograph).

Entrance to the church is free, however there is a charge for the museum, which is well-worth the price. The Church of Our Lady is also on the "Do Not Miss" list for Bruges. Read Less

Church of our Lady
Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerkhof Zuid
Bruges, Belgium
050/34-53-14

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St. Walburga's Church (Sint-Walburgakerk)

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Hotel | "A Tale of Churches - Sint-Walburgakerk"

St Walburgha Exterior Photo - St. Walburga's Church (Sint-Walburgakerk), Bruges, Belgium

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Sint-Walburgakerk (St Walburga's Church) was kind of an accidental discovery for me. My Hostel is located on Langstraat and I was going to to the Main Market with the Belforte tower as my guide. I was told to keep turning right and I would run right into the market. I thought that I knew where I was going, but obviously, I didn't. I guess that I turned right once too often. To be honest, I am lost a good bit of the time when I travel. I am good at getting lost and indeed, thrive on the things that I find by accident. People who sometimes accompany me on trips (more and more infrequently, it seems) complain that I spend so much time trying to figure out where I am that I miss a lot of the things...Read More

Sint-Walburgakerk (St Walburga's Church) was kind of an accidental discovery for me. My Hostel is located on Langstraat and I was going to to the Main Market with the Belforte tower as my guide. I was told to keep turning right and I would run right into the market. I thought that I knew where I was going, but obviously, I didn't. I guess that I turned right once too often. To be honest, I am lost a good bit of the time when I travel. I am good at getting lost and indeed, thrive on the things that I find by accident. People who sometimes accompany me on trips (more and more infrequently, it seems) complain that I spend so much time trying to figure out where I am that I miss a lot of the things that they came to see. As far as I am concerned, where's the problem? I am probably seeing things that are very interesting that others don't see. I start out in the morning and just wander. I just think of what I have seen and not what I missed. I'll be back. Sounds like a cop-out, but it's true. That's my story and I'm... By the way, I'm seem to be pretty good at getting found too, since I made my flight home. If I walk far enough, the only question is how soon I will be found.

Located in Sint-Maartensplein, the church was built in the early to middle or the 17th century. It is a Baroque church surrounded by Gothic churches in the rest of the city, which for some, is a welcome change. Originally a Jesuit church, it was given to the the parish when the original monastery was abandoned.

Like many Baroque churches, St Walburgha is very bright with light coming in through unblocked clear windows. As with all of the churches in Bruges, the church is rich with art and has a very famous and splendid communion rail carved from Carrara marble from Italy by Frans Hendrik Verbruggen. Both the high altar and the placement of the organ are striking and the vaulted ceiling, while plain, is beautiful. I think that this church should also be on the "Do Not Miss" list for visitors to Bruges.

Unusually, the church is open to visitors on Wednesday evenings. The church is fully lighted and music is played. Unfortunately, I was there on Thursday and Friday, which just means that I will have to go back. Works for me.

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Member Rating 5 out of 5 on May 25, 2011

St. Walburga's Church (Sint-Walburgakerk)

Sint-Maartensplein, Brugge

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A Letter to Bruges

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Bridge over the Canal Photo - Bruges, Belgium

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To: The City of Bruges and Her Citizens, Thank you for your city, and for your willingness to share Bruges with the world. You somehow cause a phenomenon which I have personally not seen in many places, and I feel compelled to tell you about it. Quite simply, it is that I have never seen more well-behaved tourists than I have encountered in your city. The tourists in Bruges are more polite than I have seen in any other country in Europe. Everyone seems to be on their best behavior. Visitors to Bruges really seem to appreciate the beauty of your city, but more than that, they appreciate the tranquility and the leisurely pace of living. They move slowly from one lovely setting to anoth...Read More

To: The City of Bruges and Her Citizens,

Thank you for your city, and for your willingness to share Bruges with the world. You somehow cause a phenomenon which I have personally not seen in many places, and I feel compelled to tell you about it. Quite simply, it is that I have never seen more well-behaved tourists than I have encountered in your city. The tourists in Bruges are more polite than I have seen in any other country in Europe. Everyone seems to be on their best behavior. Visitors to Bruges really seem to appreciate the beauty of your city, but more than that, they appreciate the tranquility and the leisurely pace of living. They move slowly from one lovely setting to another. The lines for the tourist boat tours are very orderly and quiet. For those who are in a hurry and weigh everything by the number of ticks on a clock, Bruges will be culture shock.

At night, everything in area of the "Old City" slows down - even the tourists. They enjoy quiet and relaxed dinners at restaurants that don't expect fast table turn-over times. I don't see people checking their wristwatches or texting on their mobile phones often (except for the young, and who can explain them). All is quiet. Blood pressure is lowered.

After 9:00 PM is the time that I enjoy the most. The city is alive with light and the romantic spots are everywhere. The streets are friendly and I see couples of every age walking and holding hands, and they stop on the bridges or walk along the canal with seemingly no particular destination. They may be eating ice cream or some other dessert while meandering. I have seldom seen people who have had too much to drink. Even my countrymen who are known to be very loud and boisterous and demanding seem to be quiet. I never worry about walking the streets after midnight looking for good photographs.

But it is during the day at the churches that I see the most intense reactions among the tourist population. I see people standing in one place in absolute awe of the indescribable beauty. I see most men take off their caps, and women have covered shoulders. Everyone slows down. I watch tourist groups standing in one place for some minutes just taking it all in. Many don't believe how close they can get to priceless works of art. Visitors wander and the most common reactions are shaking heads in amazement. Many visitors just sit in the pews or chairs and just meditate. When the leave, they leave awe-struck. And the same reaction will occur in the next church.

So thank you Bruges, from this traveler, for what you give to others, a sense of peace or serenity, a few moments of calm in a world that moves too quickly. Thank you for taking us to an emotional place where we can reflect quietly on the truly important things in life. Thank you for sharing you priceless art and architecture. Most of all, thank you for giving so much of yourself and making us want to return to experience your serenity again and again. I know that we are welcome.
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Caution - Belgium Will Sneak-up On You - Bruges