Seven Days in Southern Dominican Republic

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Overview

El Conde Photo - Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic

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The vast majority of American and European travelers to the Dominican Republic (DR) go for the worry-free, relaxing, and sheltered sorts of vacations expected and found behind the walls and fences of the all-inclusive resorts concentrated in and around Punta Cana, and sprinkled elsewhere on the DR side of the island. While such all-inclusive style pampering may be rejuvenating and revitalizing for the body and soul, it does not seem like an effective way to experience the culture or observe the human and physical geography of the DR. My trip was designed to accomplish as much as possible of the latter metrics, thus requiring that I spurn the resort lifestyle in favor of budget accommodations, uncert...Read More

The vast majority of American and European travelers to the Dominican Republic (DR) go for the worry-free, relaxing, and sheltered sorts of vacations expected and found behind the walls and fences of the all-inclusive resorts concentrated in and around Punta Cana, and sprinkled elsewhere on the DR side of the island. While such all-inclusive style pampering may be rejuvenating and revitalizing for the body and soul, it does not seem like an effective way to experience the culture or observe the human and physical geography of the DR. My trip was designed to accomplish as much as possible of the latter metrics, thus requiring that I spurn the resort lifestyle in favor of budget accommodations, uncertainty, motorcycle taxis (motoconchos), a Lonely Planet guide, and broken Spanish.
My seven-day backpacking trip was spent in three locations in southern DR, namely Santo Domingo, Boca Chica, and Bayahibe. There is certainly much more to see in the DR than just those three spots, but with only one week to travel I decided to thoroughly explore just a few places rather than quickly bounce around from place to place just for the sake of territorial conquest. Despite my limited movements, I am confident that my experiences were varied enough to accurately gauge and summarize the intricacies of the Dominican life and people.
Over the last 20 years the DR has experienced marginal wealth and standard of living increases primarily from the natural maturation of its tourism industry but, by “western” standards, it continues to be a poor nation. Whether it comes in the form of litter-strewn streets and parks, ubiquitous pollution-spewing jalopies, minor and major roads in disrepair, empty shells of partially completed structures, or groups of locals lounging around in apparent idleness, signs of poverty exist everywhere. Construction sites lack machinery, traffic flows lack organization, and public/private transportation systems lack logic. For all of those reasons traveling whimsically around the DR makes for a very interesting and unique experience. Despite (or possible because of) the low-income status of the country, the Dominicans both in the capital and outside of it are a helpful, lively, respectful, and trustworthy people. I never felt any animosity from them nor did I ever feel unsafe in any way, even while wandering around dark neighborhoods late at night solo while packs of raucous Dominicans party in the streets to blaring Bachata music.

Quick Tips:

The DR is not as backpacker-friendly as other Latin American countries in that there is a noticeable lack of proper hostels in the country. There are plenty of budget accommodations around but lodging is surprisingly expensive given the overall wealth of the nation. A budget room without aircon and possibly without hot water costs about per night. Lodging expense can be significantly cut down by sharing a room two or even three ways.
Restaurant-served meals are not as expensive as in the U.S., but they are not as inexpensive as one might expect. Entrees at most restaurants generally cost under , except for at those restaurants in the most popular tourist areas. The main beer in the country is a pilsner called Presidente. Bottles of Presidente, which are always served ice-cold, come in three sizes: 12, 22, and 28 ounce bottles. The 22-ounce bottles seem to be the most popular with Dominicans, and that should cost no more than 80 RD (.50). Many Caribbean nations specialize in the production or rum, and the DR is certainly no exception. Brugal is the label most commonly seen around the DR. Brugal is noted for the prominent flavor of sugarcane. Very few activities are more enjoyable than relaxing in a plastic lawn chair on a sidewalk drinking ice-cold Presidente and gut-warming Brugal.
It is tempting and even prudent to exchange currency in the international airport in which one arrives, although the exchange rate offered at cambios (currency exchanges) on the street, at ATM machines, or on the black market will certainly be more favorable. At the time of my arrival I exchanged at a rate of 31 RD (Dominican peso) per dollar, but while walking around the markets in Santo Domingo I was approached by Dominicans offering a rate of 35 RD per dollar. That exchange rate disparity is a sign of the locals’ preference for the American dollar over the RD. One must be careful exchanging currency with black market dealers because of the chance that counterfeit bills may be interspersed with the notes received. I have no information regarding the prevalence of counterfeiting in the DR, but it is important to be aware of any type of black or gray market transactions in any developing country.

Best Way To Get Around:

The DR is like many other countries in the region in that the complexity of getting some place usually far exceeds the distance traveled. The DR has no commuter rail system, but the “system” of small to large buses, taxis, motoconchos (motorcycle taxis), and públicos (set-route group taxis) is sufficiently capable of delivering a patient traveler to his desired destination in a reasonable amount of time. A budget-conscious traveler should refrain from hiring regular taxis because they are outrageously expensive considering the cost of just about everything else in the country. For example, a taxi from the capital’s airport, Aeropuerto Internacional Las Américas, to downtown Santo Domingo costs no less than for just a 20-kilometer ride, which is similar in cost to a ride of comparable distance in my hometown of Washington DC. A much less expensive and much more interesting way to cover ground is in buses.
As one would expect, the large Greyhound-size buses travel long distances and make fewer scheduled stops than medium-size buses (approximately 30 passenger capacity) and minibuses, which cover short- to medium-range distances and stop at many spots along the way. The biggest challenge with respect to local and long distance bus travel is finding out exactly where to meet the bus that passes through or terminates at one’s intended destination. Sometimes it’s at a bus station, which are anything but clearly marked, and other times it’s at some seemingly random roadside area where there are usually other Dominicans also waiting to catch a bus. All one has to do is ask random people on the street where to find a bus headed toward a certain city. After just a couple inquiries the rendezvous point should be quite clear. When relying on buses to get around the DR it is not uncommon to have to transfer from one bus to another.
I was surprised by how inexpensive bus transportation was. The most I paid was , and that was for a relatively long trip from Santo Domingo to La Romana on an air-conditioned bus complete with video entertainment provided by some ultra-cheesy Van Damme movie.
Distances out of walking range but too proximate for bus service are conveniently covered by motoconchos. Traveling light is key on a motoconcho, but they are really cheap and rather fun. They are easily identifiable but not as common in the capital as in other towns. Read Less

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Plaza Toledo Bettyes Guest House

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Hotel

hostel room Photo - Plaza Toledo Bettyes Guest House, Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic

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Bettyes Guest House is the only proper hostel in Santo Domingo, and quite possibly the entire country. The owner, Betty, is an extremely accommodating, knowledgeable, and gregarious American expatriate from Tennessee. Her homey Guest House includes approximately 12 beds in two large shared rooms with one hot water-equipped bathroom for the hostellers, and one private room with bath for those guests seeking a bit more solitude. There is a full kitchen in the hostel area and a water cooler that one can use to fill up personal bottles before heading out on the town in the morning or for quick (and safe) rehydration after nights spent imbibing Dominican beer and rum. Betty provides a continental break...Read More

Bettyes Guest House is the only proper hostel in Santo Domingo, and quite possibly the entire country. The owner, Betty, is an extremely accommodating, knowledgeable, and gregarious American expatriate from Tennessee. Her homey Guest House includes approximately 12 beds in two large shared rooms with one hot water-equipped bathroom for the hostellers, and one private room with bath for those guests seeking a bit more solitude. There is a full kitchen in the hostel area and a water cooler that one can use to fill up personal bottles before heading out on the town in the morning or for quick (and safe) rehydration after nights spent imbibing Dominican beer and rum. Betty provides a continental breakfast each morning at no additional cost. The typical fare includes cereal, rolls, orange juice, coffee, and tea. Betty has enabled a wireless network that laptop-toting guests can use to hop online or, if one asks her nicely, she will likely permit internet browsing on her laptop in the dining area. One will quickly notice Dominican artwork densely blanketing the walls of the smallish but functional lobby/dining area. That is because her establishment also doubles as an art gallery. That dual use adds an element of culture and flair to what would otherwise be a rather pedestrian residence.
The Guest House is situated in a prime area of the Zona Colonial, which is the section of town most popular with tourists due to the abundance of historical sights, museums, restaurants, and drinking spots. Parque Colón, which is where the Cathedral Primada de América is located (the first cathedral built in the Western Hemisphere), and the shop-lined pedestrian walkway, known as El Conde, is literally 30 seconds walking from the Guest House. For guests with sensitive ears the one downside of the accommodation’s location may be its proximity to two particular shops directly across the street, where locals congregate and drink to blaring Bachata music until midnight or later. However, after just a couple hours in the country one’s ears should become acclimated to Bachata beats blasting from just about every bus, car, and shop. That will make sleeping through such ruckus noticeably easier.
All things considered, Bettyes Guest House is a comfortable, safe, and clean place to stay while exploring Santo Domingo. Due to the limited number of beds it is wise to secure reservations before arriving to the capital. Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on January 1, 2008

Plaza Toledo Bettyes Guest House
163 Isabela Catolica
Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic

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Bayahibe: The Jewel of the Caribbean Coast

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Story/Tip

The Main Drag in Bayahibe Photo - Bayahibe, Dominican Republic

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Bayahibe is hailed by backpackers in the DR as being one of the “must do” spots in the country, and for very good reasons. Its location on the Caribbean coast provides opportunities for some excellent swimming, snorkeling, and diving; the diminutive town is charming in its austerity and surprisingly lively after the sun goes down; and the small but sparsely populated public beach is downright gorgeous. Bayahibe is not located on a major bus route so in order to get there it is necessary to transfer to a minibus in La Romana. The one-hour trip from La Romana to Bayahibe is quite picturesque, which makes the voyage that much more worthwhile.This oceanfront, spec-on-a-map town of just 2,000 can ...Read More

Bayahibe is hailed by backpackers in the DR as being one of the “must do” spots in the country, and for very good reasons. Its location on the Caribbean coast provides opportunities for some excellent swimming, snorkeling, and diving; the diminutive town is charming in its austerity and surprisingly lively after the sun goes down; and the small but sparsely populated public beach is downright gorgeous. Bayahibe is not located on a major bus route so in order to get there it is necessary to transfer to a minibus in La Romana. The one-hour trip from La Romana to Bayahibe is quite picturesque, which makes the voyage that much more worthwhile.

This oceanfront, spec-on-a-map town of just 2,000 can be easily traversed on foot in about 15 minutes and completely explored in about twice that time. None of the town’s few roads are paved and traffic lights are nonexistent because there is never any traffic. According to the Lonely Planet travel guide there are approximately eight hotels in Bayahibe proper—about half of which fall into the budget category. Given the tiny size of Bayahibe it is unnecessary to discuss the optimal location to stay because everything is centrally located. I stayed in an inexpensive cabaña but I noticed a fancyish hotel occupying the property adjacent to one in which I stayed.

There is a small square in the center of town that became the focal point of my stay in Bayahibe. The town’s general store is situated in that square so nearly every resident of Bayahibe it seems passes through the square at least once each day. Shopping in the general store is an unforgettable experience due to its unusual layout coupled with the frenzied way in which the shopping is done. There is no browsing the goods because everything must be ordered at the counter from one of the two employees that somehow maneuver around each other and through the cluttered aisles to collect products to fill customers’ orders. One has to be really aggressive when initiating an order because the clerks only respond to the loudest and most noticeable customers in the group. I imagine that there might be times of the day that are less busy than others but I saw no evidence of any kind of daily business cycle. Every time I entered that store it was crowded as ever. Interestingly enough, the shop also doubles as bar. About three-quarters of the counter space is devoted to the bar, which depending on one’s mood may be a good or a bad attribute of the place.

True to the prevailing method of partying that I witnessed every place I visited in the DR, Bayahibe’s square is where a Bachata-infused party erupts each night of the week. I noticed that people start gathering in the square around 5 p.m. and they purchase large quantities of ice-cold Presidente beer from the aforementioned shop until it closes at 9 p.m., at which time a little wooden kiosk directly in the square opens for what seemed to be very brisk business in the one item that’s sold: beer. The music is turned off at 2 a.m. but people linger in the square until well after.

Bayahibe’s beach is an easy ten-minute walk north of town along the shore. A portion of the beach belongs to or is controlled by a resort hotel, which means that non-guests are restricted to the public beach. It is easy to discern the location of the dividing line between the public beach and the private beach because the resort’s section is dense with beach furniture while the public section is not. It may be tempting to take advantage of the resort’s beach furniture by moseying over to the private beach and just settling in, but to counter that threat the hotel posts sentries armed with lists of guests’ names on the border to deter such infiltrations. It is easier and more fulfilling to simply bring a beach towel and lie on top of the beautiful sand in the public area.

There are a series of huts behind the public beach that sell mostly souvenirs, but one can also obtain beverages, food, or beach furniture rental from the employees of those huts. It is a near certainty that the Dominican and Haitian employees of the huts will approach any and every beachgoer in an attempt to sell those items, although I found them to be much less persistent and much more respectful than the vendors in Boca Chica.

Bayahibe contains two foreign-owned dive shops from which diving, snorkeling, and other maritime-based day trips can be arranged. I am not a diver but in talking to divers who have dived in the waters near Bayahibe I learned that there are literally dozens of magnificent dive sites, including many that feature shipwrecks dating back to the Age of Exploration period. The day trip that I purchased for $50 included a trip through a dense mangrove forest, better than average snorkeling in two different spots, and lunch plus some exploration time on beautiful Isla Saona. The employees of the dive shops are mostly European twenty-something diving enthusiasts who somehow ended up leading or assisting on dives in Bayahibe. They are a fun-loving and thirsty group so their presence in the square at night should not unexpected.

If there is one downside of the Bayahibe experience (and this is stretching) it must be the semi-daily but short-lived invasion of groups from the nearby resorts for their daytrips to Isla Saona and/or Isla Catalina. In the mid-morning the day-trippers are herded off the tour buses and onto the awaiting vessels in the tiny harbor, and in the late afternoon the reverse stampede occurs. As a day-tripping tourist myself, albeit of the backpacking variety, I couldn’t justify harboring much disdain for those pampered all-inclusive resort types, but I did meet some expats that found it amusing to disparage the sorts of visitors that prefer to be holed up behind the walls of the tourist enclaves rather than in the town square immersed in the Dominican culture. Regardless of one’s viewpoint it is clear that everyone is out to have a good time, and in a place like Bayahibe everyone can have a good time.

Bayahibe is the sort of place where a backpacker unrestrained by a tight schedule can lose track of time, especially if that backpacker is an avid diver. Even for non-divers the friendly people, beautiful beach, and inexpensive lodging all contribute to an atmosphere that is particularly welcoming. Read Less

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