Copán Ruinas - The Town

Putting best foot forward on the mainland, Copán Ruinas is second only to the Bay Islands for luring Honduras travelers. Even then, people come to see the spectacular Copán Archaeological Park; not this unassuming town which doubles as facilitated outpost.

After landing in shifty San Pedro Sula, Copán Ruinas was a welcomed refuge; even arriving after dark. Street lamps radiated an amber-colored glow as I made my way through the deserted cobblestone streets. New country, new town; no street signs, and no one around to ask. I permitted the I'm actually finally here-sigh, and tramped up the first of many steep hills; invorgated from the obvious boon.

Up with the roosters, the same darkened corridors began to gradually stir with vibrance. As dawn nuzzled its way across the Copán Valley, the antiquated setting began to enliven beyond any postcard illusion, or dream too good to be true. And with every buenos días, I relaxed into a destination that embodied more than just a laid-back lifestyle.

Copán Ruinas proved to be one of those spontaneous choices where everything just fell into place. I couldn't have asked for anything more, and am not sure other travelers could either; regardless of budgets or travel-related preferences. Of all the places ever ventured, this was the first Hot Spot harmonizing balance between catering to the 21st-century traveler without sacrificing classic legacies of yore.

Rather than razings for new and improved, sequential affections have been preserved. Upscale has never been so quaint, nor has a small village tucked-away so many Accommodation and Dining Options. Late-May had its fair share of travelers, but I didn't notice them thanks to the town's greatest asset -- descendents from the exalted Mayans.

The only thing more refreshing than their friendliness was to see a society and culture that has benefited from tourism without letting it alter identity. There were no hostilities or resentments towards outsiders, and the same friendly staff from local establishments were as hospitable during random meetings on the street or in Parque Central; a place you'll come to know and appreciate by ritual.

The ruins deserve every bit of all the fanfare they receive, but don't be too quick to move on. In the heart of precarious Central America, Copán Ruinas is definitely a humble luxury to spoil yourself with.

Quick Tips:

Copán Confusion!
So you want to go to Copán. Well, which one? They've yet to unravel significance or meaning to this Mayan word, but it sure must have been a doozie! Any map of western Honduras confirms that.

Located in the Copán department, which encompasses the Copán Valley, the Copán Archaeological Park is where the ruins are; not actually in the town called Copán Ruinas. But it's close, as is Santa Rita de Copán. La Entrada de Copán ushers all this in, where Carretera 11 splits-off from Carretera 4. If driving, make sure to stay on #11. Otherwise, you'll end-up in the notable town of Santa Barbara de -- Copán!

On the Copán Ruinas Map
An essential must have is some type of map; regardless of how much or how little time you plan to spend in the area. The town isn't that big. It's just that none of the streets have names, nor do any of the building have numbers. Most everything a traveler needs is centrally located, and is why Parque Central is an excellent reference point for heading-out in any direction.

Lonely Planet's 2006 Honduras guidebook sufficed for approximates. However, there were still listings mislabeled within the maze, and numerous other hidden finds not even covered. Here's another thing -- maps can not give any indication that the town is built on side of a hill, and there's some fairly steep climbs and descents; especially north, east and southeast of Parque Central.

When Timing is Everything
Honduras is aligned with the Central Standard Time zone, but reverts to Mountain Time when the U.S. goes on Daylight Savings Time. During a late-May visit, this put dawn around 5:00am and dusk at 6:30pm. The laid-back locals don't get an early start with much of anything, but I was amazed at how streets and plazas had cleared by 8:00pm.

Numerous expat-owned businesses, including restaurants and bars, stayed open later (or until the last customer leaves) as did a few local establishments catering to travelers. Other than drinking, internet cafes are the other late-night entertainment option; an hour of DSL wireless service costing under .

Up-to-Date Info
IGOUGO member quinius is currently living in Copán Ruinas, on an extended assignment teaching English in one of the numerous language schools. Don't hesitate to contact him for more details, or pay him a visit while in town.

Best Way To Get Around:

With a bit of exertion, walking can get you anywhere around town and is a great way for sponging local sights, sounds, and smells wafting from kitchens. The idyllic cobblestone streets stayed quite busy by day, and made for peaceful strolls at night.

It's also possible to walk to the Copán Archaeological Park, using a paved path that trails along the highway. There were numerous distance/time-reference listings; I'd guestimate at least 2km, 30-minutes to the main entry; at least half that again further to Las Sepulturas. The ramble is pleasant of a morning. Think twice about walking back. If distance doesn't get you, combined with trekking around the parks, afternoon heat will!

Moto-taxis are the funky little contraptions that jounce and jostle along cobblestone streets. The transportation experience was definitely original, but could provoke saddle sores if riding too far or too long!

Young catrachos race around all-day, picking-up passengers and joy-riding with friends. Depending on the model, they can hold between 3-5 people, including driver. Around town must be cheap; the 3km+ shock-tremor I withstood (and thoroughly enjoyed), was only /Lps20. Fares are supposedly set, but negotiate before taking-off.

Getting to Copán Ruinas
Honduras has only recently boarded the travel and tourism bandwagon. Before this, the majority of visitors were Guatemala daytrippers, crossing over La Frontera just outside of Copán Ruinas. The provided link gives specific, updated information including numerous changes that make this border run easier than ever, from either direction. Depending on schedules and budgets, expeditions can be made using private shuttle companies, luxury bus lines, or public transportation.

Plans call for a new international airport somewhere in the Copán Valley. In the meantime, flying into San Pedro Sula is the recommended option if arriving from within Honduras.

Hedman Alas provides luxury service to Copán Ruinas, continuing on towards Guatemala City and Antigua. If you can coordinate connections, they also have a terminal at the airport which spares venturing into San Pedro Sula, or their downtown lot. Otherwise, first impressions are not favorable!

El Rey Express and Casasola offer the same routes, at about one-third the cost. Unfortunately, schedules were unreliable, and listed 3-hour travel times were well over 4-hours. These companies also have offices and terminals in Copán Ruinas for when it's time to move-on.

Here's one that budget bangers can actually get excited about! Hotel Los Gemelos is an economical oasis amidst the tourist-geared swank that dominates Copán Ruinas. Local owner Doña Mafalda Hernández, quite the no-nonsense dowager, doesn't miss a beat or much of anything else! You'll never meet a more cordial sentinel, nor think twice about things left lying around while away from the room. In addition to everything else, she's also the hotel's "safe" and security system.

The one-level, posada-styled structure has 14 rooms; most facing either side of a burgeoning garden extending through the courtyard. Narrow benches line the walk-ways for admiring florals, while having a place to sit.

Rooms don't have chairs but simple does me just fine, and here's what I got: a comfortable bed with semi-lumpy pillows, nightstands, 3-tiered storage rack, hook-pegs and mirror on the wall, and an oscillating fan that proved to be too much.

Complimentary soap, and a small, coarsely-worn towel seemed to be the norm across Central America. Six of the seven places I stayed had me wishing I'd brought my own. But compared to these others, finding this place was a privilege! Aside from overall cleanliness and homey environment, the other low-end rarity were bathrooms actually in working order.

There's a pair of co-ed possibilities located towards the rear; one with two stools and a shower; the other with two showers and a stool. Early morning and late-nite bathing was a little shivering without hot water, but at least there was adequate pressure! Sinks for brushing teeth, shaving, etc. are outside of restrooms, rather ingenious to keep extra necessities from tying-up usage. Another perk not to be taken for granted was sufficient, well-positioned lighting to actually see yourself in the mirror.

Guests also have access to a large laundry basin. With purity of water, I suspect soap detergent is discouraged, just as was sitting on the edge to soak feet when la Doña wasn't looking. She attracts a lot of local attention, welcoming everyone over conversation and café at a large table just inside the entry. She's also just as adamant about sending them away before 9:00pm, so as not to disturb tenants.

Rooms don't have alarm clocks, but nearby roosters faithfully announced the crack of dawn, as did chattering birds in the garden. I welcomed the wake-up calls; light-sleepers should consider ear plugs. Without Daylight Savings Time, anything after 5:00am is sleeping-in.

-- Rooms come with either a double (for singles/couples) or two twin beds. Initially, I almost balked when finding rates had doubled from 2006 listings. Yep, now it costs a whoppin' (well-spent) Lps150/$8 per night.

-- Gemelos is pronounced Hay-may-los. That's important, because you'll probably need ask about location. Copán Ruinas streets aren't named; some type of map is essential. Best described, it's a rambling block off northeast corner of Parque Central, within walking distance of everything.

-- Reservations - telephone: (504) 651-4077; fax: (504) 651-4185; e-mail, info@casadetodo.com; Spanish only.

Whether as top-billing or luck of the draw, La Llama del Bosque heads Lonely Planet's dining list. Perhaps it's out of respect for seniority; they've been in business since 1975. By famished fate, this local favorite was my introduction to Honduran cooking.

Between tight flight connections and San Pedro Sula culture shock, I hadn't eaten anything since leaving my house 17-hours earlier. Brain refused to compute the 6-page menu, so I simply asked to be surprised with the largest serving. Shortly later, the mesera returned with a Churassco platter as the hungry-man special.

At first, I thought toughness of the meat was because there were no steak knives. Rigorous chewing confirmed authenticity of my stateside Central American neighbors -- slice beef thin, and grill till it's shoe-leather. There's no concept of a thick, juicy medium rare, but the marinations and seasonings were out of this world!

The meal included a mound of rice, sliced tomatoes and avocados, fried bananas, and a bowl of pickled vegetables that will make you pucker before blowing smoke. Dipping sauces included green, like a Caribbean chimichurri, and a sweeter ketchup-based red. The white sauce, which showed-up at meals in every restaurant, tastes like spoiled sour cream but works with the endless supply of bland corn tortillas.

Needless to say, I wolfed every bite while savoring a large tamarindo juice. The bill was 150Lps, including 10% tip; about $8. Other than steaks and seafoods, most everything is priced under $4.00, including a large selection of sandwiches and salads. Breakfasts were an even bigger bargain.

The restaurant supposedly opens at 6:00am; Latin American time equated about 6:20. For early risers, it's the first place open of a morning. Staff welcomed me in amid sweeping and cleaning. Fruit plates/yogurts are priced a little more, but everything else was $2.50/50Lps or less.

Juevos Rancheros had a couple of eggs topped with amazing salsa, but this was my first taste of real refried beans; almost whipped like mashed potatoes for a flavorful, warm pudding-like texture. They went well with the white cheese and avocado on tortillas. The sweet plantains were naturally caramelized from frying. Coffee is included in small urns, that "might" hold two cups. I wouldn't know, since shape of the container makes it easy to spill!

-- La Llama del Bosque is located off southwest corner of Parque Central; block and a half west, on the right. Set hours are unheard of. While I was the only early customer, the place was packed night before after 8:00pm. Seating was still available, but large groups should make reservations. (504-651-4431).

-- Inside dining room takes-on a hacienda feel with vaulted wooden ceilings and western decor. Restaurant gets its name thanks to a colorful, covered deck loaded with plants dancing under brisk overhead fans. Ambience is perfected in mornings when forest sounds enliven from tropical birds filling large cages below the deck.

Unlisted and inconspicuous, La Roca Restaurante is easily passed without realizing any reason to stop. From outside, it looks a little rough around the edges. Just inside the always-open front door, surly-looking locals congregated around the bar hinted this was one of those places that a foreigner should never infringe on.

Stopping later to browse a menu, I was surprised by unseen extent magnified in cantina ambience. Brightly-colored stuccos were loaded with vibrant woven fabrics, sombreros, piñatas; idiosyncratic decor popularized into Hispanic kitsch found in knock-off joints around the world. Truth be told, I almost didn't know how to grasp the real thing! I also wasn't expecting the indepth chance to at least try.

A private tour guide recognized me from earlier in the day and offered invitation to sit. Brief pleasantries turned into more than either of us probably expected, and that's exactly why I'm recommending this place. Whether solo or with others, La Roca is perfect for soakin' up the surroundings and suds!

Liquor options are limited; the cerveza supply too unlimited. Salva Vida, the popular Honduran brew, translates as 'lifeguard' -- perhaps because there's potential for drowning at only $1/20Lps for an ice-cold longneck.

My host further baited the table with a plate of loaded nachos for 30Lps. I hadn't planned on staying, eating, or drinking beyond "a" beer. However, I'll indulge anything that's complimentary -- as in free like the conversation, good time, and impending mouthfuls that almost foiled dinner.

Once recovering with a shower and accidental snooze, hunger pangs had me back for a late dinner. Hoping for a quick fix, a quartet of college coeds had walked-in just before me to occupy the only out-front employee. Limited staff not only handle customers, they're also in-and-out to the nearest market for whatever menu items aren't on hand, including bottled water. I didn't need anymore recessitating from the lifeguard; just food!

The grilled steak sandwich was stacked for only 75Lps; the cuts of meat more tender than steak from night before. And the mountain of tostados, the Honduran version of fried plantain chips usually called tostones, rekindled my love for the luscious Central American ketchup, first savored in Panamá.

I'd flown out of the room on such a mission, it deprived reading the menu without my glasses. La Roca did have a page of breakfast offerings, and what you'd expect with local fare for lunch/dinner, including vegetarian items. However even the blurred eyes of a skinflint can zero-in on prices. Other than steak/seafood entrees, nothing was priced over $5. Between the ambience and prices like that, this authentic place is not to be missed!

-- La Roca is located off the southeast corner of Parque Central heading south, and located on the left towards end of the block. I overhead a staff member trying to communicate in English. Bring your Spanish or your patience.

Typical of Spanish influence, Copán Ruinas is concentrated around Parque Central as the axis of existence. In a town where streets have no names, Parque Central becomes the reference point when asking/receiving directions, or trying to pin-point locations on maps.

Consider it the Alpha and Omega; the potential beginning and end for all that transpires. And, don't hesitate to indulge the in-betweens! These gathering spots define a pueblo's character; this one certainly unique for a population descended from the Mayans.

A majestic arbor hems the north and east sectors into a centralized gathering area. Columns have viewing-level display cases that contain intricately-designed relics and artifacts from the past civilization. They're worth close inspection as is society from the present.

As heart of the community, the central gathering spot is always a great place for checking the pulse while absorbing culture. For locals, it's a place to see and be seen while exchanging information, or even pausing to join a sing-along. For inclined (and reclined) travelers, it's a People Watching Paradise. If you speak the language, I'm always amazed at how eager most are to engage in conversation beyond general greetings; Copán Ruinas no exception.

The park's southern perimeter is lined with a massive stone wall that looks like something from the ancient indigenous city. It's actually backdrop of a small stage for public performances. Of an afternoon the small entry alcoves doubled as private clubhouses for school children, and concealed young lovers as twilight faded.

The surreal bubble effect is completed thanks to verdancy. Lush tropical gardens were some of the best I've ever seen with varieties of plants, blossoms, and fragrances; further magnified and crowned with Flamboyán trees ablaze in May. With angled entries into the park, the well-manicured outgrowth naturally obstructs the world beyond except for the small Cathedral.

Spaniards always placed the town's Catholic institute across the street for "congregation" convenience. The Copán Ruinas church looks rather plain and simple from the outside, and was never found open for seeing if interior contained hidden finds. Actually, best glimpses/photos of the church come with partial views from inside the park.

-- Pulpería, the Honduran version of a convenient store, are scattered across from the park for picking-up drinks and snacks to enjoy during down-time. Roving vendors also circulate, selling a bit of everything.

-- The park stays quite active day and night; even once streets have cleared after the sun goes down. Safety was never an issue; the town's Police Headquarters are just across along the western border.

-- Moto-taxis are easy to catch from anywhere in town, but seemed to be in most abundance along the park's northern border.

With such close proximity to La Frontera, the town of Copán Ruinas and further afield Copán Archaeological Site, have became one of Guatemala's most popular daytrips; especially to anyone searching for Mayan Ruins. Guatemala guidebooks all include special sections for making this border run that's became even easier than outdated information suggests.

The greatest improvement is that all connecting roads on either side of borders are now paved at all three crossings, minimizing listed travel times. Checkpoints at El Florido (outside of Copán Ruinas) and Agua Caliente are also now open 24-hours; the Caribbean coastal crossing at Corinto closes at 6:00pm.

These days, greatest decision involves whether to use public transportation, major bus companies such as Hedman Alas, or numerous private shuttles popping-up.

From Copán Ruinas, the latter two offer direct service to Antigua, with stops in Guatemala City. These are priced considerably more but cut-down on travel time without making frequent stops. The hitch is that nothing leaves until 1:00pm, or later in the day. To those looking for flexibility and adventure at a fraction of the cost, public transportation is certainly the way to go!

Colectivo vans regularly depart from Copán Ruinas a block west off the northwest corner of Parque Central. For 12Lps, it's about 20-minutes to El Florido and the Guatemalan border. The first van leaves at 6:00am. After this, exits run about every hour or when a full-load has been collected.

Tip #1 If leaving on the first van, make sure to have purchased water, snacks, or whatever needed the night before. Nothing is open in Copán Ruinas, and there's no time for buying anything at the border with that first, quick-connection waiting.

Crossing the Border
The van unloads passengers just short of the checkpoint for walking across the border. Just beyond on the right are the shabby immigration offices. They'll request to see passports, but won't stamp them for exit or re-entry at land crossings. There's a 20Lps tax for leaving Honduras, and Lps25 fee to enter Guatemala. Either station will accept Lempiras, Quetzales or US-$.

The border wasn't nearly as harrowing as information described; perhaps because it was still so early in the day. A couple of food stands and a tienda/store were already open, but the connecting colectivo was obviously waiting. There's a small bank branch on the Guatemalan side but also roving money changers. Official exchange rate was Q7.5 on the dollar; I got Q7.4 rapidly in the street.

Tip #2 Especially if planning to return to Honduras, keep the Lempiras. Exchange rate was marginally better if cashing-in US-$.

Venturing into Guatemala
Colectivos regularly head for Chiquimula; the major transportation center for this part of the country. In-transit, this was where the fun began! Unlimited stops were made through the rural region. As last passenger in at the border, I was sitting at the open, side-exit door; a front-row seat for the entertainment as riders hopped on-and-off. With such a full-load, some were left standing in the open door while clinging to the outer-roof!

Photo ops were too genuine to resist; the curious crowd chuckling at my camera monitor while begging for more. Not only did this cause peculiar distractions, I was also obstructing progress -- my 6'4"-largeness preventing more passengers from squeezing into the rear section, and also blocking the entire rumble board jammed between the first row and front seats. Driver insisted it would be more "accommodating" to move me upfront.

After a quick roadside shuffle, I got sandwiched in the middle between driver and passenger as wide as I was tall! They pleasantly addressed me as gringo; I counter-feigned as Boricua, and we were off through the rolling hills and mountains; oblivious to how many were finally crammed into that 15-passenger van.

In the picturesque valley town of Jocotán, passengers going to Chiquimula transfer to another van at no additional charge. Ride from the border to Chiquimula was Q20; the 2-hour endeavor from Copán Ruinas roughly costing $3.30, not including the $2.40 for immigration entry/exit fees.

Tip #3 When traveling by colectivo vans, luggage is tied onto roof racks. While contents may be secure, this method risks serious saturation and/or damage during random downpours, or traveling during the rainy season. Fortunately I was lucky during my entire trip, but never would've considered need for a waterproof bag. You should!

Chiquimula was quite bustling! Transportation hubs are absorbed within blocks of the outdoor markets. Upon arrival, barkers and porters immediately whisk foreign travelers off in a hustle without the hassle. Simply tell them where you're headed. And no, they didn't expect tips for carrying bags. Hospitality only speeds-up the process!

The entire country of Guatemala is accessible from this town, and changing buses again in Río Hondo is no longer necessary as information suggests. Travelers have a couple of long-haul options on battered, charter-type buses -- local, or so-called directo. The latter costs more, and either make innumerable stops in towns along the way. I recommend taking which ever one is departing first.

Tip #4 If coming to Copán Ruinas town and the Copán Archaeological Site from Guatemala, just reverse all these instructions and expect much of the same. The first van headed towards the Honduran border also leaves Chiquimula at 6:00am. With an approximate 8:00am. arrival, this leaves better part of the day for exploring the park and time to head-back if you don't plan on staying. Lonely Planet has numerous hotel and restaurant listings for Chiquimula, and I certainly wouldn't have minded looking around with more time.

-- Departing Chiquimula shortly after 8:00am, I was in Guatemala's Caribbean coastal region well before noon, for only Q40; slightly more than $5.

Re-entering Honduras
With a last-minute change of itenerary, I headed back to the interior rather than crossing the coastal border at Corinto which links Puerto Barrios, Guatemala to Omoa, Honduras.

From the Guatemalan town of Esquipulas, famous for its monstrosity of a basilica luring pilgrims in search of miracles, crossing borders was just as effortless. Colectivos, in the form of taxis or vans, regularly leave from 11a Calle; the main street, one-block west of the park and cathedral. The 10-minute ride to the border goes for Q15/$2.

Drop-off is in front of Guatemala immigration, which check passports without stamping them and charged no exit fees; perhaps because I'd only been in the country four days. Outside, another shuttle makes the 2km-run to the Honduran bordertown of Agua Caliente for Q5; it's too far to walk.

Upon arrival, this is where things got a little confusing simply because there's no signs for where anything is. There's quite a bit of development and activity though still nothing intense as guidebooks would have you believe. There's no need to wander off the main-road. Beyond the border crossing, immigration office is on lower-level of the large building to the right. The tax for entering Honduras is $3 or 60Lps.

Money changers are available in the street to cash in Quetzales or Dollars at fair rates. There's also a plethora of foodstands, stores, and even small hotels; likely for truckers that get jammed-up at the border. (The entire 2km stretch between the two immigration offices was lined with semi-trucks waiting for clearance.)

I had just missed the bus leaving for Nueva Ocotepeque; the nearest town of any significance which also serves as a transportation hub. It was a brief wait until enough had filled a taxi for the 30-minute ride into town costing 20Lps. The countryside is stunning as roadway weaves through pine-clad mountains.

-- From Nueva Ocotepeque, buses head north along Carretera 4 to Santa Rosa de Copán; gateway to the Ruta Lenca (90-minutes; 60Lps; sit on the right side for best views.) From Nueva Ocotepeque, it's also a brief 10-minute ride south for crossing into El Salvador at El Poy.

Tip #5 The pair of southwestern Honduras border crossings are not only close together, both must first connect through Chiquimula. If wanting to cross at Agua Caliente, simply request going to Esquipulas. Why? Mention border or la frontera, and barkers will automatically try to ship you off to El Florido towards Copán Ruinas and the Archaeological Site -- because that's where the majority are usually going!