Auckland: City of 100 Lovers

Auckland was named Tamaki makau rau (City of 100 Lovers) in Maori because it was desired by all and conquered by many. And after starting and ending my first trip to New Zealand there, it’s easy to see why.

The mast-filled harbors of Auckland, known as the City of Sails, don’t disappoint, but it was away from the bustle of the waterfront and downtown that I found my favorite neighborhood, Ponsonby. The homey area is about 15 minutes’ walk from the city center and is full of great restaurants, shops, villas, and views. A disproportionate number of bakeries give its streets the scent of Paris, and the architecture of many of the houses is pure gingerbread. The area is a bit hilly, like San Francisco, but this means that there are great harbor views around every turn.

Walking the entire city is easy and enjoyable, though. I particularly liked two of Auckland’s parks, Victoria and Albert, and the café-filled streets that line them. Walking from Viaduct Harbour down Quay St. and Queen St. to the commercial areas around the Sky Tower—the tallest building in the Southern Hemisphere—is also a lot of fun. Auckland has the largest Polynesian population of any city in the world, and I enjoyed spotting Polynesian influences in the food and goods available.

While Auckland’s sophisticated galleries, bars, and shops could entertain any dedicated urbanite for months, don’t go to the city without taking advantage of the stunning scenery just beyond—those areas were easily the highlight of my North Island trip. The islands of the Hauraki Gulf are short flights or boat rides away, and Matakana wine country is only an hour’s drive across the Harbour Bridge (from which you could spot someone bungy jumping!).

Quick Tips:

Auckland is situated in a naturally gorgeous region, so sign up for tours to some of the surrounding islands or countryside. I’d suggest renting a car to drive to Matakana (if you’re comfortable with left-side driving) or choosing a tour or driver to get you there.

If you have to choose one out-of-town trip from Auckland, though, head to the Hauraki Gulf. There are a number of island options there, but Great Barrier Island is the most beautiful place I’ve ever seen and offers great hiking, swimming, and accommodations. It looks like Ireland plopped in the South Pacific and, if you can help it, is not to be missed.

New Zealanders love good coffee and seem to have an entire vocabulary devoted to caffeine. Step into one of Auckland’s many coffeehouses for a "long black" or "flat white." I especially enjoyed the Black Crow Café alongside Albert Park on Kitchener St.

Auckland has no shortage of great restaurants, and it’s easy to find one if you stroll along Viaduct Basin’s outdoor, waterfront eateries. Most of the menus feature must-try New Zealand specialties like kumara (sweet potato), lamb, and mussels.

Soak up the city’s Maori and Polynesian influences, and pick up souvenirs that reflect them. I found some great deals at Victoria Park Market, home to a variety of shops featuring handmade goods.

Best Way To Get Around:

Auckland is a completely walkable, compact city; you can explore the entire downtown area, and probably most of the outlying areas, in one day on your feet. For longer distances, taxis are abundant and affordable. A taxi from Auckland Airport to downtown takes about 30 minutes and costs about .

Auckland also offers a city bus service (with its terminal on Quay St.) and a tourist-centric Link bus service that runs in a loop.

I flew into and out of Auckland International Airport several times, and it’s a breeze to navigate, with very little traffic and security holdups compared to most international airports. With only Air New Zealand (and now Virgin Blue) operating domestic flights, passengers are not required to be at the airport very long before takeoff. If you’re flying domestically, though, be prepared for small planes. A flight from Wellington to Auckland was on a jet, but a flight from Auckland to Taupo sat only 20 passengers, and the pilot asked one of my companions to move seats so as not to upset the plane’s center of gravity—somehow not my favorite words I’ve ever heard pre-takeoff.

I also took a 30-minute, 9-passenger Mountain Air flight (through tour operator Bush and Beach Tours) from the Auckland airport to Great Barrier Island, which was an easy yet thrilling experience and cost about 545 New Zealand dollars round-trip. Overall, I was very impressed with Auckland air travel—and transportation in general.

Stepping out of my taxi after 24 hours of traveling on foot, subway, plane, and car, I went from feeling like a rumpled mess to feeling like I’d died and gone to, well, Mollies.

Miss Joanna was expecting me and immediately whisked me into my duplex villa, a bright space filled with the notes of Pavarotti, the glow of an electric fireplace, and room after room of exquisite but comfortable décor. As soon as she left, I ran around the place like a candy-crazed kid, my jet lag a thing of the past before I even stepped into the amazing shower, tucked into the plush bed, or became an actual candy fiend at the complimentary mini-bar.

I paused for a while on the upstairs balcony, where I would watch the sun rise over Auckland the next morning, captivated by the perfect outline of the city. Inside, the view was even better, because Mollies has thought of everything a traveler might want: two flat-screen TVs, wireless Internet, DVD players, robe, slippers, snacks, alarm clock, flashlight, books, magazines, CDs, that day’s Herald. The attention paid to the details in each of the 14 suites is incredible. My room (number 13) featured a living room, dining nook, bedroom, bathroom, and walk-in closet downstairs, and a daybed and desk in the upstairs loft. All of this was accented with a chandelier, antiques, paintings, layers of pillows, marbled walls, huge mirrors, and global influences.

But I came closest to singing hallelujah with the Pavarotti CD in the bathroom. Its spotless, heated tiles; towel warmer; Jacuzzi; two-headed shower; Molton Brown bath products; hairdryer; and sleek sinks were enough to bring a weary traveler to tears.

The bathroom didn’t remain my favorite thing at Mollies for long, though; it didn’t stand a chance next to the spa, gym, dining room, or reading room. And outside, where I took my breakfast and coffee, was just as beautiful, with views of perfect Ponsonby streets and the Harbour Bridge beyond. Mollies’ location is a huge draw; the hotel is tucked into a trendy, residential neighborhood away from the city center, but only a 15-minute walk to the heart of Auckland. And any member of the personable staff will point you where you want to go, marked-up map in hand.

The staff, in fact, is what really differentiates Mollies. Led by the opera-industry husband-and-wife-team Frances Wilson and Stephen Fitzgerald, the staff runs the place beautifully but without pretension. The night I was there, they were hosting a wedding party’s rehearsal dinner, and were so warm in their encouragements for me to stop by that I actually did. I’m glad I took their advice, because two of the talented hotel staff entertained us with arias by the piano (which they do nightly around 8pm).

Though a night of Mollies’ luxury starts at approximately $495, it’s easily one of the world’s best boutique hotels, and if you’re looking to celebrate a special occasion or to recover from traveling, it’s worth every penny.

The Westin Auckland, Lighter Quay, is the Starwood hotel chain at its best. The new property embraces its harbor setting; incorporates typical New Zealand art; and presents a clean, Zen look and feel throughout.

The hotel, a cozy retreat in downtown Auckland, is all clean lines, full windows, and flowing water. The lobby has great sitting areas and friendly concierges—one even brought my group muffins and coffee when he saw us waiting for a cab at 6am.

Even above the location and hospitality, the reason I would highly recommend this Westin is the quality of the rooms. I haven’t stayed at a Westin since the introduction of the Heavenly Bed, and now I’m hooked. The mounds of fluff made it nearly impossible to get up in the morning, and it didn’t even take 2 days for me to price-check the bedding ensemble online. When I did manage to claw my way out of bed, the bathroom was equally impressive: sparkling clean with a huge shower and tub. The two hotels I stayed at in Auckland—Mollies and the Westin—are the only places I’ve ever stayed where I felt more comfortable than in my own home.

Each room also features a flat-screen TV, a desk, and a mini-bar. The décor is modern and sleek: brown suede pillows; wood panels; white leather desk chair, subtle lighting. As evidenced by the diverse clientele I saw around the building, it’s a set-up that would accommodate a businessperson or a family in equal comfort.

The views from both the rooms and the public areas—of the City of Sails’ waterways or the inside courtyard—are beautiful, and encourage you to explore the city (the only reason I could think of that’s good enough to get out of that seriously comfortable bed). The hotel even features its own boat slips so guests can jet up and jump from their yachts to their rooms—or the Q restaurant and bar—without a hassle (no, I didn’t try that, but it’s a cool idea). The hotel also has a spa and a convenient little café-market, Toast, attached to it.

Even if you’re booked in a standard room and arrive sans yacht, the Westin Lighter Quay will make you feel pampered while providing you with a bit of peace in the center of Auckland.

As I gripped my seat on a nine-passenger plane and craned my neck to look out at the sea, I was torn between thinking "this’d better be worth it" and "this is the coolest thing ever." Wearing giant headphones to dull the noise of the propellers, I was encased in my own thoughts over Auckland’s Hauraki Gulf islands.

It was the beginning of my daylong Untamed Island Tour with Bush and Beach Tours, led by the ever upbeat Dawn Gasparro. We met at 7am at Auckland’s airport and hopped a 30-minute Mountain Air flight to Great Barrier Island. We landed without incident at one of the island’s tiny airports, where Dawn’s van was waiting. Our first stop was the Claris Texas Café for a hearty breakfast—just what we needed after a few hours’ sleep.

While we ate, and then drove, we learned more about this beautiful place. Less than 1,000 people live on the 111-square-mile island, although it’s a popular vacation spot around Christmas and New Year’s and supports a decent tourism infrastructure, including lodges, car rental agencies, and bachs (holiday homes). In the 1970s, the island was a popular center for alternative lifestylers and their "cash crops," as Dawn put it.

We continued on with a hike to Kaitoke springs, with Dawn pointing out flora like fragrant manuka and kanuka tea trees. One of the girls on our tour, a bird expert, quickly identified the pateke brown teal, a small duck nearing extinction. There are only 1,200 of them left in the world, and 800-1,000 live on Great Barrier Island.

For a break from hiking, we made a stop at the Aotea Community Art Gallery in Kaitoke, a co-op where over 70 artists sell their creations. It's a must-see space full of gorgeous things.

Our next stop was an oceanfront farm with which Bush and Beach has partnered, where we ate an amazing lunch prepared by the farm’s owner—warm and cold dishes, fabulous New Zealand baked goods, and the best oranges I’ve ever tasted. The owner, Helen, also rents her home to guests, and after walking Phungipea Beach, playing with her dog, chasing her sheep, and feeding her eels, I know I could get comfortable there. The shell-dotted beach is somewhat sheltered by another island, and the sand meets electric-green hills. It’s literally the most beautiful spot I’ve ever seen. One of the hills is also the site of the S.S. Wairarapa shipwreck—the second-worst ship disaster in New Zealand history—and serves as a lovely gravesite.

Our last hike was the Palmers Track at Windy Canyon, a short, uphill trek to great views out to sea. Soon it was time to head to the airport for our late-afternoon flight back to Auckland.

If you have more than a day, there are a number of beautiful B&Bs on the island; I saw and liked Mount St Paul Lodge, a 7-year-old property with gorgeous views. But however you see Great Barrier Island, just be sure to go!

The Whiskey has a lot going for it: a location on Ponsonby Rd.; a good appetizer- and pizza-heavy food menu; a huge selection of drinks; a low-key but upbeat atmosphere; classic-rock music; and Cocktail College. This was one course I was excited to take; somehow "hit the bars" sounds more fun than "hit the books," doesn’t it?

Cocktail College takes over The Whiskey at 6pm from Tuesday through Saturday. I went on a Friday night and had a great time kicking off the evening. Our group of eight got to choose four drinks from the menu that’d we’d learn to make together, and our bartender set each of us up with all of the barware and ingredients needed for each one. She then guided us through the steps of making a mojito, a whiskey sour, and a honey bear (which involves a New Zealand manuka-honey liquor). While she set up what we needed for the next drink, we sipped and grazed on appetizers—hummus, cheese, sun-dried tomatoes, and more—set out for us.

My drinks were delicious, and since I never mix my own drinks, Whiskey’s mixologists are clearly great teachers. Shaking, mixing, hitting, stirring, and sugaring was a blast and even inspired me to want to continue my cocktail studies at home.

We had the bar to ourselves for an hour or so, and then a few others began to trickle in, including a bartender from down the street who sips at The Whiskey on her breaks, which I took as a good sign. The bar is open 7 days a week from 5pm to 3am, and was just beginning to fill up when we left around 9pm. Cocktail College costs $45 per student, and drinks from the regular menu are reasonably priced. The atmosphere, filled with the rock sounds of Jimi Hendrix, Bob Dylan, and more, is sleek but comfortable—a huge bar and exposed brick give the space character.

Maybe it was because our fairly large group took our time making each cocktail, but we actually only got through three before we broke to order some menu items for dinner. I’m not sure if that means we failed Cocktail College, but we had a good time doing it.

New Zealand was abuzz with stories of Matakana when I arrived. The wine-producing village an hour north of Auckland was the cover story in Air New Zealand’s in-flight magazine, and I kept hearing about the village’s initiatives to become the country’s first Cittaslow, or slow town.

By the time I was in a car heading over Auckland’s Harbour Bridge toward Matakana, I felt like I knew what to expect, but seeing, smelling, and tasting the town’s delicious yields—food and wine—was even more enjoyable than I’d expected. The coast’s vineyard-dotted hills hide a foodie haven (and heaven).

Our first stop was the Matakana Farmers’ Market, open every Saturday morning and full of visiting Aucklanders. More importantly, it’s full of delicious food, with stalls selling local and organic garlic, blueberries, terrines and pâtés, jams and chutneys, rice-paper rolls, coffee, vinegar, roses, baked goods, chocolates, cheeses, mussel fritters, and more. Locally brewed and canned Leigh Sawmill Beer has a stand, as does the Matakana Bag Lady. While I wandered the perfectly designed grounds with my coffee, I enjoyed live music from a three-piece band in the center. Shopping here is completely guilt-free (save the chocolate)—not only is everything you’re buying grown or made locally, but the market has a zero-waste policy. And the food craftspeople behind the counters are uniformly delightful.

After shopping the market, and the small flea market next door, we were ready for some sit-down food, so we headed to the outdoor restaurant Cosi at Morris and James (48 Tongue Farm Rd.). The setting is gorgeous but laid-back—exactly what I’d come to expect from New Zealand’s best eateries. We ordered food at the counter that was served at our table, and the owner’s son came over for a chat when he heard we were from the US. My NZ$13 fish burrito was delicious, as was my blueberry scone. An extra treat are the bathrooms—they’re part outdoors, part indoors, harmonious, and gorgeous. And for more shopping, the adjacent Morris and James Tileworks store sells beautiful, handmade pottery.

Lest we go for more than 10 minutes without sampling Matakana’s culinary delights, we headed to Heron’s Flight Vineyard and Café for their NZ$10 wine-tasting menu. They explained that 2005 was possibly the best summer for growing wine grapes in 20 years, and the Sangiovese and Dolcetto we tasted were indeed delicious. They also served equally wonderful grape juice made from Sangiovese grapes. Heron, which has the distinction of being the only winery in New Zealand that grows purely Italian grapes, offers Matakana Wine 101 classes on weekends at 11am—we were too late to attend, but they sound like a lot of fun. They also serve dinner Thursday through Saturday and breakfast and lunch daily.

If you’re in Auckland, go to Matakana...and stay in Matakana! I didn’t get to spend the night there, but it was hard to leave after just a day. The lodgings in the area, without exception, appear to be gorgeous. One in particular stood out, though: Takatu Lodge & Vineyard, renowned across New Zealand for its hospitality (and wine). The owners, Heather and John, worked with the environmentally-minded architect Steve McCracken and adhered to rules of feng shui for their rooms, and the result is spectacular. For example, outside lights are installed below knee-level because, they say, you’re in Matakana to see the stars. I was salivating over all four of their suites, and when I return to New Zealand’s Pacific-hugging wine country, I plan to spend part of my trip in one of Takatu’s giant, open-air bathtubs. It’s the only way Matakana can get any better.