Casablanca: The Heart of North Africa

The highlights of Casablanca center around its eclectic mix of European ambiance swirled together with Arabic and African culture. It's a vibrant and youthful oasis in the center of Morocco's desert landscape.

Upon first glance, you won't even realize this is Africa. Thoughts and perceptions of lions and tigers running amidst the savannahs are long gone - this is the Africa of days past, a center of Arabic and Berber cultures, set against the sandy, arid backdrop of the Atlas Mountains, just north of the massive Sahara. This is Africa at its finest. Casablanca is a gem in the desert, charming the tourist with its pleasant European hospitality, its first-class restaurants and hotels, and its wild nightlife scene.

Take some time to enjoy this culture I speak of. Wander the streets of Casablanca and you'll be transported to the time of Bogart and Bergman. Here's a city like not many others in the World, ready for your exploration.

Don't miss the main sight to behold in Casablanca - the stunning Hassan II Mosque, perched on the edge of the Atlantic, reaching upwards to the heavens. It's a religious experience. Also, make sure your itinerary does not exclude a visit to the city's downtown area, where Morocco's economy is booming, with big businesses setting up shop, sophisticated nightlife, and one of the only McDonald's restaurants in Africa.

Casablanca isn't thought of as a beach town, but don't forget those blue waters just at the edge of town. There are plenty of opportunities for water-lovers to test their skills out on the Atlantic coast, or just enjoy some seafood near the harbor.

Plan at least a few days here to truly appreciate the city. It's worlds apart from the sensory-overloading ambiance of Marrakesh, far less imposing than the tourist-trap of Tangier, and it is a truly representative Moroccan city. Visit once, and love it forever. Guaranteed.

Quick Tips:

Morocco in general is the kind of place traveler's fear. Not because it's an unsafe country, but because it's nearly impossible to get five feet in front of you without a tout offering services from taxi rides, to guided tours, to restaurant offers, to panhandling, to yes, sadly even offers related to prostitution. Expect this fully on your entire trip (though they do calm down around police officers). They're harmless - they'll never steal from you (stealing is a capital crime in Morocco), but they will annoy you into submission. Take it with a grain of salt, and have a sense of humor about it. They can be very forceful (they grabbed the arm of my elderly grandmother to get her attention). If they are forceful, call out for a police officer, and they'll leave you in a hurry. When it comes to beggars and panhandlers, expect a fair deal more than anywhere else in the World. Mexico, Cambodia, Peru - these are all cakewalks compared to Morocco. Expect to lose at least - per day on people overcharging you or begging the money out of you until you give in. Regardless, always be polite.

Another thing is certain: Always know where you're going and look like you have a purpose. This will ward off most of the false guides and other touts. Don't carry expensive items on your person - stealing may be illegal, but it can happen at any moment. Don't travel alone if possible, especially if you are a female.

Always book tickets in advance, and get everything in writing. Carry medical insurance here. You are literally asking for trouble to visit this area without adequate protection.

While Casablanca is somewhat tame compared to the rest of the country, it does share a lot of the same problems. While it is a comparatively rich city, there is poverty here, and hence many social problems. For these reasons, heed the warnings above.

In Casablanca, you should be able to get by using English, but some key French phrases would be useful.

Always, always, introduce yourself with your hand over your heart. Guidebooks can explain the etiquitte quite nicely. The best guide for Casablanca is Lonely Planet's Morocco.

Best Way To Get Around:

Casablanca is very easy to get around, using any method you'd like. Small buses are the cheapest option, and go pretty much anywhere in town. These are not recommended for solo travelers, or those relying on English to a great extent. A ride on these buses costs around 10 cents.

Taxis are the norm for tourists, and they're the most recommended option. For around per kilometer, you can be taken anywhere in the city. Watch out for rampant overcharging (eg. I was charged an extra for each bag I was carrying) and ALWAYS agree to the price beforehand. Carry exact change when possible, as the driver may insist that he does not owe you any change. Anything goes here, so be careful.

Some hostels allow bike rentals for a modest surcharge. However, due to the traffic conditions and the lack of regulations compared to other countries, this isn't recommended.

Walking is an option in the downtown area. Be aware of your surroundings and try to walk with a partner. Always carry a map, but be discreet when referring to it so as to not draw attention to yourself. Do not walk at night, ever. Kidnappings have been known to take place. Walking after dark is okay around the well-trafficed Gare Routiere.

To leave town, you have many options. Catch a bus from the Terminal to anywhere in the country (every hour, pretty much), or one of the many trains. The train service heads towards Tangier (six hours) or Marrakesh (six hours) several times per day. Service to Rabat (one hour) leaves hourly. There is a daily night train to Tangier. RESERVE IN ADVANCE, as the couchettes sell out quickly. A couchette costs only around 10% more than a seat, so be quick to reserve. They are excellent.

On a small street corner next to the massive Gare Routiere in Morocco's largest city, you'll find this somewhat large, imposing, and very European hotel. Inside, there is all the predictable ambiance you'd expect to find at an Ibis (one of Europe's biggest hotel chains). Long considered to be the Motel 6 of Europe (owned by the same company as well!), Ibis is a brand you can rely on for predictibility, if nothing else. The floor plans are the same in every hotel, the amenities are the same, and the service is usually the same (bare minimum).

I hesitantly approached the hotel after arriving on a late train from Rabat. I wasn't about to search for something better, as I wanted to be somewhat safe in this city. The hotel is literally right next to the train station - there's no wandering down dark streets looking for the front door. Just exit the train station, walk 100 feet to your right, and the hotel is right there.

I entered to be greeted (if you can call it that) by the hotel front desk. Really, they curtly acknowledged my presence while finishing up some work, and after a 5 minute wait, they attended to me. They were offering a somewhat excessive rate (50 Euro), so I headed to a nearby internet cafe down the street, where I managed to book an internet rate of just under 30 Euros per night.

I headed back and checked in for the lower rate, much to the hotel's disgruntlement. I was given the keys to one of the Ibis' standard rooms. Inside, I found a couple of twin beds with clean sheets, neatly tucked and pristine as could be. The washroom was small and spotless. The entire room was sanitized like a surgeon's room, and although it was tight, it provided the right comforts I was looking for at the right price.

A small television was available in the room, with a decent selection of English-language channels. Nothing else was in the room - just the television, the beds, a couple of nice hardwood shelves, a small safe, and the washroom.

The hotel is a great choice for those arriving by train, or leaving the following morning. It's right on the Place de la Gare in central Casablanca, convenient to all downtown locations. But, in the end, this is overpriced for Morocco, and you'd be better off paying these prices at a location that reflects that price a bit better.

Breakfast is not included. It can be added to your room for around 5 Euros per person, which is a decent value. The hotel has no pool or other services, so don't expect too much. This is bare-bones, no frills, clean and comfortable accomodation at its finest. Come with low expectations, and leave with little to no disappointment.

Nestled down a side street, just blocks from the Gare Routiere is this small local cantina, popular with locals and visitors alike. Within walking distance of many downtown hotels, this place is all about one thing and one thing only - good food at a good price.

I walked in after arriving on an evening train into Casablanca, hungry as ever after a long day of travel. I wasn't impressed to start - the restaurant isn't exactly a sight for sore eyes. Cheap, picnic tables decked out with the finest plastic dinnerware and paper tablecloths, surrounded by some of the most retro, 80's decor imaginable. Don't let this set you off - instead, head on in, grab a table, and enjoy a good, locally-cooked African meal.

We took our seats and immediately we were welcomed by our very energetic waiter, who led us through the somewhat basic, but definitely suitable menu. Everything from sandwiches to soups to tajines (Moroccan stews) to couscous was on offer. We were offered some complimentary mint teas while perusing the menu, which was a nice touch.

We eventually settled on the Moroccan salad to start out. This plateful of chopped head lettuce was topped with a creamy, sweet, and tangy mustard vinagrette, along with a pile of chopped tomatoes, onions, and ripe green olives. I'm not much of an olive eater, so I could have definitely done without those bits of bitter goodness, but I'm sure others would have been in heaven. At $2.00, this was a decent selection for a starter, even if it wasn't a gourmet, awe-inspiring culinary experience.

What followed was the Chicken tajine, our entree of choice for the evening. This Moroccan stew was filled to the brim with hot, pleasantly seasoned African ingredients. Served in cute little clay pots (called tajines, hence the name), the yellow broth was covered with fresh carrots, peas, and other spring vegetables, along with a large chicken breast, all perfectly seasoned with sweet African spices. For $3.00, it was hard to go wrong with this dish.

This would be a great place for families, due to its laid-back, easygoing atmosphere. It's definitely not a quiet restaurant, though, which may be of concern to some. Here, loud chatter among the diners mixed with the best in Arabic pop music blaring on the stereo reigns King, and those who don't like such an environment are better of finding an alternative. Myself, I like the jovial, fun atmosphere - it definitely has an energy to it.

The restaurant is open late - I arrived after 11:00 PM and I was promptly seated, staying well past the midnight hour. Prices are extremely reasonable, with nothing on the menu over $5.00 USD. Don't worry about sanitation - this place is clean, the food is tasty, and it will be very hard for you to walk out of here after a meal feeling any disappointment whatsoever. Highly recommended.

What could be funner than a McDonald's in Africa? The thought boggled my mind, so I had to experience this bit of American Commercial Imperialism for myself.

I headed in to the standard McStoreFront and made my way to the counter, surrounded by posters of Ronald and the other characters glaring down on me. Suddenly, I was transported out of Africa and into suburban New Jersey - it couldn't have been more American. If it were not for the French and Arabic scattered around the restaurant, I would not have been able to tell the difference.

I glanced up at the menu and discovered that prices at McDonald's really do carry forth from country to country, and are more or less the same everywhere. Around $5.00 USD for a combo meal, $1.00 USD for a soda, etc. I couldn't justify spending that kind of money on the standard Big Mac fare, so I opted for something else - the local specialties.

Yes, the food at the McDonald's in Casablanca is quite varied. They have the McChicken, they have the BigMac, they even have the quarter pounder. But what they also have is harira (Moroccan soup), the McRoyale (pretty good variation on the quarter pounder with cheese), and a Fondue burger (with melted cheese). Everything looked good, and I was eager to try it.

Well, suffice to say, it was a bit disappointing. It was still a must-do, though, since the clash of cultures is just so strong it's fascinating. After a small sampling meal of America's finest, I exited the restaurant, leaving Ronald and the McBurglar behind, and walked confidently down Mohammed V, having experienced a truly unique meal.

What can be said about one of the World's most amazing sights? Surely I can't express how awe-inspiring the Hassan II Mosque is in 500 words or less, but I'll give it a try.

Designed and built by French architects, the mosque towers high over the city of Casablanca, right on the edge of its Atlantic shores. In my opinion, this is the most beautiful building in the World. Regardless of what faith you hold, this building will charm you - it's impossible not to fall head over heels for it.

Approaching the mosque, with its 210 meter minaret (tower) imposing over you, is a surreal experience. You almost feel unworthy walking towards it, a mere tourist, trying to justify "sightseeing" when really, you're walking on the holiest ground in Morocco. There's a certain mysticism about it, and it's definitely a privilege when the guards out front invite you closer for a better look. The intricate detail on the walls, the beautiful Moorish arches, the gracefully arched columns - it's enough to make the strongest of men weak in their knees.

I ventured closer to the entrance, where I peeked inside. Sadly, I hadn't arrived during an official tour time (there is one English tour per day - it was at 2:00 PM at the time of my trip). Because I wasn't there on time, I couldn't see the interior. Non-muslims are prohibited from entering. But, from the doorway, I saw some amazing architecture. Gold, silver, marble, all intertwined and on display, a massive, beautiful icon of the Muslim faith.

If you are lucky enough (and wise enough) to come during the time of an official tour, be sure to check out the glass floor. This revered area of the mosque hangs over the Atlantic ocean, where prayers are held daily. It's considered by many to be the most beautiful religious spot in all of Africa.

Regardless of whether you are here for worship, introspection, or just for sightseeing, be sure to take some time to head behind the mosque to the cliff wall overlooking the Atlantic coast. The views from here are breathtaking. Also, be sure to come back at night for some views of this amazing building as it is lit for the night sky. The colors are spectacular.

The building is less than twenty years old, and is the third largest mosque in the World. If ANYTHING deserves your time in Casablanca, it is the Hassan II Mosque. Go ahead, get your hopes up, come here with the highest of expectations - it will be impossible to be underwhelmed.

A taxi from downtown Casablanca runs about $2.00. There is no admission to wander the grounds, but tours are levied a small admission charge. You'll need at least three hours here to fully appreciate the mosque, so plan accordingly, and most of all - enjoy yourself!