Nürnberg - My Perfect City

Basic History...

Briefly, Nürnberg is a relatively old city. It's history can be traced to the tenth century and it was a very important city on the trade routes. As a result of the Reformation, the city declared religious toleration in 1532. Nürnberg was a mecca for artists and was a goldsmith center in the 16th century. The city went into deep decline following the Thirty Years War, but rebounded to become an industrial leader in the 19th century. The first railroad was launched in 1835, and the city became Europe's leading toy manufacturer later in the century.

Prior to WWII, Nürnberg was known as one of the most beautiful medieval cities in Europe. On January 2, 1945, 525 British bombers destroyed over 90% of the old section of Nuremberg, the center of Third Reich ideology.

Today's Nürnberg is a city of 500,000 people. Part of Bavaria since 1806, and second in size to Munich, Nürnberg's citizens consider themselves to be Frankish, not Bavarian.

So, what is so special about Nürnberg? First, location: Nürnberg is kind of centrally located in Bavaria within easy reach of Munich, Bamberg, Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Würzburg, and all of the other beautiful areas of Southern Germany. All of Europe is within hours; Paris is less that eight hours by automobile, Rome is eleven hours.

Second, history: The reconstruction of the medieval old city according to centuries old plans makes it one of very few left in Europe. Rather than reconstructing a more magnificent Baroque city, the Nürnberg fathers chose to rebuild the medieval city. There are a few buildings near the castle that remain intact from their medieval days.

Third: transportation: The transportation infrastructure is part of the best in the world. No other country competes with the autobahn system. The public rail system, "Bahn.de", is the best in Europe. The underground commuter metro trains are excellent, and expanding. Being a rail hub, the suburban and national system has full connections to everywhere in Europe. All cities have bus and rail long distance systems, and the buses and trams are very convenient.

Finally, the old city of Nürnberg is a total joy to explore on foot. The hill up to the medieval castle is not difficult. The Germanisches Nationalmuseum is one of the best in Germany, the churches are outstanding, and the food is great.

Living or visiting, Nürnberg is super.

Quick Tips:

I was fortunate to have lived in Nürnberg for three years (1962-65), and fortunate to have visited every country in Western Europe at that time. Today, I have wonderful memories of my time in Germany and Europe, but my favorite place to live would be in Nürnberg. I try to visit twice or more each year.

About the city...

Nürnberg is a walled city. At one time it was completely surrounded by a moat which is still very visible in many places. There are four main towers among the eighty along the reconstructed wall that rings the old town. The wall is over 30 meters high and 16 feet thick in some places. Much of the wall has a sentry walk (ramparts) and, if time permits, it is well worth the walk around the city.

Entering the city...

Two scenarios: Take a cab from the front of the Hbf to your hotel or other lodging. Get checked in, and talk to the concierge about the city and it's sights. Second: Leaving the Hauptbahnhof ("Hbf"), one reaches the old city by either crossing the street directly in front of the Hbf or using the underground walkway. Just follow the signs to the "Altstadt" (old town). Going up the ramp to the altstadt there is a large tower on the left. On the right side about 200 feet in front is a TI (Tourist Information). German TI's are among the best in the world, English speaking, and loaded with good information. If you tell them how much time you have they will give you information for what you have time for.

Leaving the TI with directions to your lodgings, check into your hotel. Before heading out, look at a map of the city that you received at your hotel. Notice that the city is kind of oblong with the long part moving from southwest to northeast. The best place to start your tour is dependent on your hotel location. My favorite starting point is in the southeast corner right across from the Hbf. If your lodgings are more in the center of town, the best location to start is at the Hauptmarkt (main market). Note that there is another TI on the north side of the marketplace.

websites... (all with English pages)
http://tourismus.nuernberg.de/ (for tourism)
http://www.vgn.de (for Nürnberg transportation)
http://www.bahn.de (for rail services)

Best Way To Get Around:

Like most German cities, the public transportation system is excellent (see websites in "Quick Tips"). In Nürnberg, the two systems to learn are "Bahn.de" (true in every German city) which is the national rail service, and VGN which handles local service (including suburbs). If you plan the use local trains, subways, trams or buses, VGN is what you need to know about.

With that in mind, I consider Nürnberg to be another of what I call "Wanderer's Cities." It is one of those places that entices the traveler into it's nooks and crannies, and I believe that one sees more and learns more on foot. While the city is not flat, the walk to the castle is only mildly strenuous and well worth whatever exertion is necessary. Besides, a number of very nice and very "Frankish" gasthauses await your presence.

Walking is the only way to see some of the sights as they are in the pedestrian zone. The walking tours are well-worth the time and monetary investment, and the guides are very knowledgeable. If one really wants to "experience" a place, walking is required. In my reviews, I will go into greater detail about individual sights and how to reach them. There is no place that I can think of in the city that is difficult to reach. One does have to watch for which days a particular attraction is closed.

One word of caution. Nürnberg is a Medieval city. it is not filled with splendor like Vienna, or Munich, or even Würzburg. There is a place called Tucherschloss (Tucher Palace), but it is not what would be considered a "palace" like The Residenz or Nymphenburg in Munich. Nürnberg has a castle (defensive) and opposed to a palace (peacetime luxury). So remember that Nürnberg's old town is Medieval, but nonetheless worth visiting for a few days, at least.

In short, Nürnberg is a wonderful city in every way: it has perfect size, a friendly and industrious population, a superior and flexible public transportation system, excellent retail sales outlets, great food (however unhealthy) and a great "old town."

The Heilig-Geist-Spital is one of my favorite restaurants anywhere. When I was stationed in Nürnberg during the early '60's I ate here at least twice a month. The food is Bavarian/Frankish, national and international fare. And, it is delicious. The service is always very professional. The atmosphere, judge from the photographs.

Upon entering the foyer one is confronted with a suit of armor and a brilliant chandelier. Then everything gets even better.

Known as a "Weinstube," the restaurant has an extensive wine list that will satisfy any wine drinker's palate. The wine stewards are well-schooled in all of the German products and offer excellent suggestions.

Parenthetically, at the risk of offending the reviewers with the length of this story, I once brought a number of friends there, each of whom had cultivated a different taste in wine (I admit that we were 22 year old American GI's). For the sake of argument, I also admit that our palates had not yet matured. The steward, in accented English said, "I have just the perfect wine for you." He returned with a bottle that we all tried and said it just what we liked. It was not too sweet or too dry; it was perfect. I wrote the name down from the wine list and it was "20a." I also had him repeat the name of the wine several times so I would not forget it. He was somewhat puzzled, but he complied. I memorized the name. Some time later, I was with other friends at a different restaurant, and I ordered the same wine in German, "zwanziga." When the waiter returned with a bottle of red wine I told him that that was the wrong. He said that it was what I had requested. I told him that "zwanziga" was white not red! I then proceeded to make an absolute fool of myself arguing with the waiter. I thought that the name of the wine was "zwanziga," which translates to "twenty a." It was for a full month that I talked about a stupid waiter before one of my German friends told me what I was asking for. For anyone who cares, the correct name of the wine is "Dahlsheimer Steig," and over forty-five years later, I still have not lived it down.

The Heilig-Geist-Spital is known for its Frankish foods and everything that I have ever tasted there has been excellent. One friend raves about the "Forelle" (trout), but in Germany the fish is often served whole - head included. Just a word of warning.

The restaurant serves regional, national, and international cuisine. For me, a wonderful meal is Goulash Soup, a perfectly cooked schnitzel (or roast pork) with dumplings in a beer sauce. Don't get me started on the desserts. They're all great, just like this restaurant. If you want a wonderful restaurant, the Heilig-Geist-Spital is for you - with change.

The upper floors serve as a residence for the elderly so make sure you enter the restaurant side.

Where to start. The Schöner Brunnen (Beautiful Fountain) is located at the NW corner of the Hauptmarkt (Main Market). There are many stories about the fountain, but this is what I know to be factual. I will get into the myth later.

The fountain was created in 1385 by Heinrich Parler. Standing twenty meters high (62 feet), it features brilliantly colored images, some of which are Moses surrounded by the Prophets, 9 heroes (three each Christian, Jew, and forefathers), and seven Electors on the bottom, a total of 40 figures in all. Surrounding the statues is a wrought iron enclosure which has a brass ring on the front, and a less visible iron ring on the reverse side. This is not the original soft sandstone sculpture, but a shelly limestone replica made in 1897. The wrought iron enclosure is from 1587 and is the work of Paulus Kühn of Augsburg. The few leftover fragments of the original sculpture are located in the Deutsches Nationalmuseum, a few blocks back up the hill you just came down toward the Hauptbahnhof.

Now for the myth. As mentioned, there are two rings in the iron work - one brass and one iron. Here are a couple of stories about the rings. The first concerns a blacksmith who had a lovely daughter who was in love with her father's apprentice. Wanting his daughter to marry above her station, the blacksmith had been unable to thwart the relationship. Finally, he hit on an idea that could not fail. He said that he would bless the union if the apprentice could fashion a ring with no seam into the latticed iron. The apprentice completed the seemingly impossible task and the couple were married. Legend says that if you spin the brass ring three times and make a wish while spinning, your wish will be granted. Or, if you spin the ring three times, you will have good luck. Or, you actually only have to spin the ring once, the extra spins are for the tourists. Or, the brass ring is for tourists. The real ring is black and harder to find. Or, spinning the brass ring is for luck and spinning the black ring is for fertility. There you have it. Locals, of course, don't believe is such stuff and that is why on Fridays and Saturdays there are so many wedding parties having their wedding photographs made in front of the back side of the ironwork where the black ring is hidden. (Frequently, the photographer has to tell the new bride where to locate the black ring.)

Back to reality. History is unclear as to whether Herr Kühn actually had an apprentice, but one would think that doing everything by hand, he must have had an apprentice or two during his time, don't you think?

While this is one of the main attractions of Nürnberg, it is also one of the two most commonly known meeting places. The other is Lorenzkirche.

This is a "must see."

Like most European cities, Nürnberg has a number of squares (Platz) and one major square which in German is the Hauptmarkt. The major squares in cities were used for many things (many were uncivil, like hangings and beheadings), and over the centuries became the centers of town life. All new taxes were announced and collected and evaders punished in the square. "Shaming" for petty crimes took place in the square as did public announcements. Mostly though, the square was the marketplace for farmers and itinerants.

Today's Hauptmarkt in Nürnberg serves as the location for the daily and weekend markets, any kind of small carnival or festival, and every year, in September, "Altstadtfest." It is also home to the largest, most well-known Kristkindlesmarkt (Christmas Market) in Germany. Beginning on the last Friday in November and lasting until December 24th, it creates a wonderful Christmas Season filled with stands selling anything related to Christmas, especially gluwein (mulled wine) and lebkuchen (German gingerbread). Look for ornaments, fig figures, angels of all sizes and shapes. If it has to do with Christmas, it will be found at this festival. It is a delight for young and old and everyone in between. (I will devote an entire journal to this very special Christmas Market at a later date.)

The history of this Hauptmarkt is not without tragedy. Originally a swampy area, the ground was considered useless and relegated to the Jews. It was decided in 1298 to drain the swamp and combine the two cities on each side of the Pegnitz River. The Jews were, again, in the way of the progress. They were accused desecrating the Host and, in one of what were called the "Rintfleisch Massacres," the area was razed and 698 Jews burned in their homes. More recently, in 1939, the Nazi's burned books not suitable for the population and there is a scorch mark left to prove it. The marketplace was surrounded with beautiful patrician homes, but the entire area was totally demolished by allied bombings in January of 1945. (In regard to the treatment of the Jews in WWII, Nürnberg is one of the German cities that has taken a very honest and self-critical look at those terrible years. Everyone visiting Germany should spend some time at the Documentation Center in Nürnberg. It is very graphic, revealing and sobering.)

As mentioned, local vendors populate the square on weekdays selling local produce, fruits, many varieties of cheese, as well as kitchen and cooking nick-nacks of every description. In late April until sometime in May when the crop is done, the market is filled with local farmers and vendors selling white asparagus (spargel), which is a delicacy in Germany. It is often served as a main dish.

On the North side of the Hauptmarkt one finds the "New City Hall" and a TI (Tourist Information).

This is another of the "must visit" attractions in Nürnberg.

Tourist Information am Hauptmarkt (Main Market Square)

Hauptmarkt 18
90403 Nürnberg
Tel. 0911 / 23 36 -135

The Altes Rathaus was built between 1616 and 1622 by the master builder, Jakob Wolff. The Renaissance style appears plain, but if one looks closely, there is plenty of ornamentation. There is actually an older Rathaus behind the one facing West. This older building is the original building and is from 1332 - 1340. The "Altes Rathaus" is no longer used as a city hall, but it holds relics of the past that are very interesting.

Of interest are the dungeons and the torture chamber beneath the Rathaus. They can be visited by tour only and are well worth the visit. Besides the brutality of the penal system in the dungeon, the torture chamber takes on even greater significance.

Of greater importance (while of lesser interest) are the West entrance doors and the sculptures above each of the three doors. They were added in 1524 and are of great importance, not because of their decorative value, but because of their relationship with the Reformation. Martin Luther posted his 95 Theses on the chapel door in Whittemberg in 1514 and in a period of a few years, Nürnberg posted Religious Tolerance documents and became mostly Protestant. In fact, Nürnberg today is half Catholic and half Protestant whereas Munich remains about 85% Catholic.

The scupltures above the doors depict symbolically the 7th Chapter of the Book of Daniel in the Bible. The four creatures represent the four empires that would rise and rule the known world - Babylon, Persia, Grecia, and Roman (hindsight is 20/20). There appears to be a Papal crown on the center horn of the fourth beast signifying the prophesy of an intolerant power that would arise and claim it had the power and authority to change God's Laws, i.e. the Roman Catholic Church.

Also found in these sculptures, are the Coats-of-Arms of Nürnberg. One shows a black eagle on a gold shield and is one of past coats of arms and no longer used. The other two are current and were adopted in 1936. The first is the "Greater (Great) Coat-of-Arms" of the city and dates to the 13th century. This depicts an eagle with the head of the King. In this statue the King is represented as a "harpy;" i.e. with a woman's head and breasts. The other is known as the "Lesser (Small) Coat-of-Arms and is a divided shield with the German eagle on the left half and red and white stripes on the right half. (There are photographs of each.)

Even if one has no interest in the Reformation, the dungeon and the torture chamber will certainly get one's attention and is well-worth a visit.

Nürnberg is a lovely city. Most tourists never have time to see the true beauty of this city because the majority of tour books and tours seem to dismiss Nürnberg as just another spot to stop for a few hours. Most of the tour discussions are more about WWII than the vibrant medieval history of this important city. The city is more than self-critical about it's Nazi past as is evidenced by the Documentation Center. From a personal standpoint, I would love to see a guide book in which each of the descriptions of every city and town are written by a local person who loves his/her city, and I met one.

In April, 2007, I visited Graz, Austria. I was the only person in the "English" tour, so it was just the guide and me. For two hours we walked the city talking about the sights, but just as much about the city and what was "special" about Graz. In our conversation, I found out that the guide had a senior position in local government. I asked him why he guided tours, and he said, "Because I love my city and want everyone to see it as I do." His name is Heribert Szakmary and he is the best tour guide I've ever known. I feel the same way about Nürnberg.

This review may not be as specific as the reviewers want. It is just about wandering around the city with no other purpose than looking for things of interest. These first pieces contain mainly photographs that show the city that means so much to me i.e. places and things. People come later.

I want the descriptions of the pictures to serve as information. Some places I really don't think have any historical significance, but they still show what I wish to reveal. The photographs are all relatively recent (within the past four years with a digital camera) and portray Nürnberg as the city is today. This is not an example of fine photography, just clear and in-focus pictures. My camera is a point and shoot. My only goal is to give visitors reasons to make a Nürnberg visit more than just a half-day stop on a tour and a place to sample "Nürnberg" bratwurst. I want you, the traveler, to experience the sights and smells, the friendliness ("gemütlichkeit"), and the liveliness of this city. Please join me in my "Spaziergang" (a slow walk for no real purpose other than enjoyment) around the old city of Nürnberg.

Note: My visit to Graz was at the tail end of my five weeks in Germany and Austria, but I did learn something important from my guide in Graz. From now on I am going to ask people, "What makes your city special to you?" We are told to "look for the redeeming qualities in others." It stands to reason that the same would hold true with places. I hope so because I will be looking for those qualities, not the warts.

First, a little Nürnberg history...

Castles and towns intertwine. Generally, when a castle is built, a town is built around it; the town population providing income through taxes, foodstuffs, and labor. The castle provides protection for the town population and eventually, the town grows and becomes a city. At least, that's the theory. In actuality, more often than not, the castle was built to protect the ruler from his subjects. In that same period, English and Scottish kings lived among their people and it was not until the fortress concept was introduced by the Teutonic (Germans) that the idea of a of a castle for the ruler was adopted. The English thought that it was a capital idea.

Nürnberg's first castle, basically a stronghold for Emperor Heinrich III, was built in about 1040. Used to annex adjoining lands to increase the wealth of the emperor, the town size increased and by 1070, Nürnberg had become well-known due to it's position on the trade routes as well as for pilgrimages to the grave of Sebaldus, the miracle-worker (I'll get to him when I do a Sebalduskirche review). These two things catapulted Nürnberg into an important trade center.

King Ludwig of Bavaria declared Nürnberg to be an Imperial City, answerable only to the king in 1332, and it remained an Imperial Free City until 1806 when it was annexed into Bavaria. German Parliament met in Nürnberg until 1543, and from 1424 until 1796, Nürnberg was one of the Kaiserstädte (Emperor Cities) along with Frankfurt and Aachen.

Backing up a bit, in 800 AD, the Pope had declared Karl der Grosse to be the Holy Roman Emperor and Nürnberg was the unofficial capital. Only the Pope could proclaim the emperor, who was elected in Frankfort and crowned in Aachen, all subject to the whims of the Pope. (Karl is also known as Charlemagne or Charles the Great.) Eventually, over the centuries, and because of the importance of the city to the empire, both a castle and wall were built. The original city of Nuremberg was established inside a defensive stone wall guarded by 46 fortified towers. This was surrounded by a moat and then another outside wall. There were five main gates into the city, four of which are still standing. Between 1050 and 1571 all of the emperors of Germany and the Holy Roman Empire lived in the castle at one time or another, making this castle one of the most important in German history.

Skipping ahead a few centuries, Nürnberg was almost totally destroyed by allied bombs in January, 1945. Only Dresden received greater damage (96% to 95%). This city, including the castle, has been rebuilt almost from the ground up. The rebuilding of this and other German cities is a tribute to the "German" character of orderliness and detail. The centuries old plans of the city were stored underground and kept safe, while the National Socialists (read Nazis) were so punctilious and exacting, that they had detailed photographs of every part of the city. These, along with those old 15th century plans were used to recreate the "old city." For the people of this city, it was a labor of love.

I hope that the reader can comprehend this convoluted history lesson. There are the Holy Roman Emperors, kings, counts and all kinds of royalty competing for power and it really gets confusing. As soon as I understand it, I will try to put it into condensed but understandable form.