Just as the best Swiss chalets are found in western Austria, the best
Amsterdam canals are in Delft. Old Deft is Old Amsterdam on a more
intimate scale. The canals aren’t as wide, the houses aren’t as tall, the
streets are narrower, and it all works better in Delft than in Amsterdam.
We loved Delft, but were more than a little disappointed in Amsterdam.
At one time in history, both Amsterdam and Delft were the capital of The
Netherlands. Delft was the first capital, and the palace and home of
William of Orange, the liberator of Holland and its first King, is just a couple blocks off
Deft’s town square.
The scenic and historic center of town is on and around the town square
whose two major buildings are the New Church and the town hall, with a
striking exterior. The New Church, which is new old when compared to the even older Old Church just down the street is interesting for its Gothic
architecture, the Tomb of William of Orange (from 1614), and the old
style Dutch Protestant seating where the seats in the nave face the side of the
church rather than the apse. For a view of Delft from on high, climb the church bell tower.
From the New Church, we went one block behind and one block to the right of
the town hall to the Palace of Wm. Of Orange in an old (AD 1400) convent.
The walls of the stairway still bears the scars of the assassin’s bullets
that killed the Prince in 1584.
The Palace is a museum devoted to the 80 year long war for independence
from Spain. The nearby Lambert van Meerten Museum features, art,
furniture, and Delftware. The Paul Tetar van Elvin Museum recreates the
artist’s studio on 18th Century burgers’ house, along with art and more.
Old Delft was a very attractive place to explore. Even with the canals, the streets form a decent grid system, making it easy not to get lost. Amsterdam, on the other hand is an easy place to get lost because the canals form a ring of semicircles out from the harbor.
A long walk from the town square is the factory that put Delft on the map for its blue and white porcelain.
Quick Tips:
The Delft factory tour(free) is short and of some interest, but if you really want to understand how porcelain is made, head for the Meissen factory in Meissen, (East) Germany. Still, it is fascinating watching the artisans paint the intricate patterns on the plates, pitchers, etc. And of course, there is a gift shop. The best prices are on factory seconds, mistakes that are hardly noticeable (major screw ups are destroyed).
Expect rain. Bring an umbrella or wear clothes suitable for drizzle.
Best Way To Get Around:
We arrived in Delft on a bus tour than was included in a Rhine River cruise. Our ship docked in Rotterdam and a short bus ride through Rotterdam brought us to Delft. There is no room for busses in Old Deft, so the bus dropped us off beside the Old Church and retreated to the suburbs to park. At the appointed hour, some of the busses returned to pick up those from the ship wishing to go to the Delft Factory. Later, the buses returned to the Old Church to pick up those who stayed in town. She went to the Delft factory. I stayed in town and walked around Old Delft.
The train station is on the edge of the old town.
Old Delft is made for walking and bicycling. Streets are flat and follow a reasonable grid, making it easy to get from here to there without confusion.
If driving, don't try to drive in Old Delft where there are lots of narrow one way streets, canals, extensive parking restrictions, and pedestrian and bicycle ways. There is a big parking lot on the south edge of the old town just off the A13 expressway at Exit 9 (the middle of three Delft exits).