Nanning: The Deep South

Nanning provides a look into a slightly different China; despite being a modern city, it has a slower pace than the eastern coast. Its varied ethnic puzzle seems to be occupied with life’s quality more than with technological development; this is evident in the charming downtown. Trees, gardens and flowers are obviously important to the denizens that walk the wide avenues at a slow pace atypical of the busy dizzy Chinese cities on the east; that is enough for justifying a visit, but Nanning has more surprises for the visitor.

The city is the capital city of the Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region and is an important industrial and transport center; the Yong Jiang River divides it in two. Enjoying a fabulous location, it borders Vietnam, neighbours Guangzhou, and is close to Hong Kong, Macau, and South East Asia. The Vietnamese border is less than two-hundred kilometers away from Nanning, giving the city an additional value for tourists.

It is located on an undulating basin and features altitudes of up to 500m above the sea level, a subtropical climate, and monsoon rains that produce exuberant quantities of fruits. With more than three-thousand types of plants which grow in lush abundance, the city is known as the "Green City," and made the Jaba - an evergreen shrub – and the almond tree its symbols. Fertilizers’ production and heavy industries – especially steel, aluminum and machinery are the cause of a mild pollution of the area.

Historically, Guangxi was under a weak control of the Chinese dynasties since the fourth century; Nanning was founded as a fortress during the Sung Dynasty (960-1279). It was opened to international commerce in 1907 and from 1912 until the WWII replaced Guilin as the provincial capital; the Japanese occupied the city in 1940. Since 1949 it functioned again as the capital and it remained so after the autonomous region was created in 1958; it has slightly over a million denizens.

About third of the population belongs to the Zhuang people who are related to the Tai; they are the largest minority group in China and live mainly in Guangxi. However, several other ethnic groups live in the area and transform it into a fascinating cultural kaleidoscope.

Quick Tips:

The Guangxi Museum is Nanning's cultural gate; its collections take the visitor to a historical tour through various dynasties, the Taiping Uprising and the Communist Revolution. The massive structure is a fine example of Communist architecture, it was founded in 1978 on People's Square eastern side and in 1988 the People's Cultural Hall was added.

The Guangxi Ethnic Relics Center is a late addition to the museum shaped as an outdoor museum; it displays typical houses of the ethnic groups populating the Guangxi region.

The Nanning Southern Lake Park, offers a subtropical scenery in the southeast of the city; it occupies much of the park's total area. The rest features traditional pavilions and bridges - like the Seven Holes Bridge - which create a believable illusion of being in Classical China.

The lush Qingxiu Mountain lies five kilometers southwest of downtown next to the Yongjiang River. The site was built long ago during the Sui and Tang dynasties and beyond its awesome display of nature has thus also an unusual historical angle.

The nearby Guilin sandstone formations provide a glorious view mainly due to their immense size which transforms them - if compared to similar sites around the world - into something quite out of this world.

The Guangxi Medicinal Herb Garden is one of the biggest herb gardens in China with more than 2000 types of medicinal herbs.

Thirty five ethnic groups live in the region; some of them are inaccessible while others - like the ubiquitous Zhuang - can not be distinguished from Han Chinese. If visiting a Hmong Village, be aware that they consider the name given to them by the Chinese - namely Miao, meaning "Barbarian" - an insult; similarly, using the name Hmong while speaking with a Han Chinese would result in a pretended misunderstanding.

Nanning offers a reasonable tourism infrastructure, with comfortable accommodations, accessible information about its attractions and an awesome natural setup, all of which combine to ensure a pleasant visit at any time of the year.

An issue of concern while traveling in China is the ubiquitous hot water containers; their water is seldom boiled. A way of ensuring a safe cup of coffee is carrying around a thermos. After filling it with hot water, add an iodine pill and wait ten minutes; afterwards the water would be safe. Don't forget that even without the iodine it wouldn't have been a gourmet coffee.

Best Way To Get Around:

By Plane

Nanning Wuxu Airport (NNG) serves mainly domestic flights and is located thirty-two kilometers away from the city. International flights are scarce, but there are plans to connect it with Bangkok and Ho Chi Minh City.

A shuttle bus reaches the airport every half hour from Chaoyang Lu in front of the Minhang Hotel and near the railway station; the way longs forty-five minutes.

By Train

The Nanning Railway Station is well connected with Kunming, Guangzhou, Xian and Beijing; it is located at the northern end of Chaoyang Lu just north of downtown. Trains are the best way of traveling around in China; they are comfortable, allow a lot of sightseeing and offer plenty of encounters with friendly locals.

Trains reach Guilin several times per day. The station next to the Vietnamese border is called Pingxiang; the way longs slightly over three hours. Across the border there is a railway leading to Hanoi. However, the situation in Vietnam is different; there, traveling by bus is better.

If traveling during the Chinese New Year season, buying tickets as soon as possible is imperative.

Buses and Taxis

Taxis are rather expensive and care should be taken while boarding that the meter is used.

Buses are useful mainly for trips within the city and its surroundings. The five terminals are a bit difficult to manage; they were not designed for the use of foreigners. The main terminals are Langdong (on Minzu Dadao, east of downtown) and Jiangnan (on Xingguang Dadao, south of downtown).

Unlike in the trains, the bus companies do not have control on the food served during the meal stops. Often the meals are included in the ticket and a coupon is given to each passenger. Once I found myself in such a restaurant; the dining room was very clean, the steel plates were sparkling and the food looked attractive. Soon afterwards I found myself victim of a food poisoning and lost a couple of days recovering from the experience.

Long distance buses in China are equipped with beds arranged in three layers. The top layer is recommended; the others are used as improvised tea-houses during the day. The ones at the front and back offer some extra space for stretching out the feet; this is important since the beds are rather short.

The Guangxi Museum is Nanning’s main cultural gate; its collections take the visitor into a historical tour beginning with an ancient culture specializing in bronze drums, various dynasties, the Taiping Uprising and the Communist Revolution.

The rectangular, low and massive structure is a fine example of Communist architecture and contains six exhibition halls. It was founded in 1978 on People's Square eastern side; in 1988 the People's Cultural Hall was added.

The Historical Artifacts Exhibition shows items from prehistoric times up to the Opium War (1840-1842), concentrating in the local culture and its relations with central China (especially during the Shang and Zhou periods). It includes the earliest hominid fossil found in Southeast Asia, the "Liujiang Man."

Nearby, a fine collection of stone tools is displayed; it includes Mesolithic polished blades and many artefacts from the Neolithic period. Within this display, the most special item - due to the quality of its manufacture and its exquisite polishing - is a large shovel-shaped object of unclear purpose. The early collection includes also a display of ceramic created with a high technological level and a group of iron objects excavated from the Northern Guangxi and dating back to the Warring States period.

One of the most special exhibits is the Ancient Bronze Drums one. During the late Western Zhou period, 2500 years ago, Guangxi inhabitants were creating their own bronze culture. This collection displays three-hundred drums belonging to the eight main types of bronze drums from the Qing Dynasty’s Spring and Autumn Period. Some of the drums reach gargantuan dimensions and display intricate carved patterns and inscriptions. Related bronze items in display include lacquer painted basins, horses, phoenix lanterns (their necks can be shaped to adjust light and clean the ashes), a zun (a snake-headed frog-patterned vessel called), and a unique Yellow Dragon Mirror.

Guangxi Ethnic Relics Center

This late addition to the museum was designed as an outdoor museum which displays some of the ethnic groups populating the Guangxi region typical houses. It includes a bamboo house of the Yao, a stilts-house of the Miao (they prefer being called Hmong), a drum tower and bridge of the Dong, and others. The real-sized display provides an unusual and thrilling experience.

Complementing the outdoors museum, one of the indoors exhibitions is dedicated to the different costumes, weavings, dying techniques, embroidery and other traditional arts of the denizens.

On Sandstone

Soft sandstone is typical of areas that were once underwater. Their destiny being inexorably linked to water, they are easily eroded by slightly acidic – due to the absorption of atmospheric carbon dioxide – raindrops. This simple story of creation and destruction is responsible for the creation of fractal landscapes across the globe. Usually baptized "Moon Valley," they provide an opportunity to see the spiky, irregular side of nature.

Guangxi has been blessed with one of the biggest karst formations on earth; it is so big that the name Moon Valley doesn’t fit. Amidst the wonder is the town of Guilin, which its name became a synonym for the formations.

Historical and Physical Location

For the joy of modern travellers, Guilin lost its political importance once the provincial capital was moved to Nanning. Nowadays it is considered one of the most important historic sites in China.

Located northeast of Nanning and on the west bank of the Lijiang River, it is easy to schedule a short trip to Guilin while – for example – travelling from Kunming to Hong Kong or Guangdong.

Not only Sandstone

Guilin’s romantic name means "Forest of Sweet Osmanthus."

History

Guilin was founded in 314BC, but only in 111 BC, during the Han Dynasty’s Emperor Wu, became the capital of the Shi An County. Later, in 507AD, it was renamed Guizhou. During the Tang and Song dynasties it was an outpost allowing the central government to control its southern border; this lead to the construction of canals through the city so that food could be transported here from the Yangtze Plain.

In 1921, Guilin was one of the headquarters of Dr. Sun Yat-sen’s Northern Expeditionary Army. In 1940 the city was re-baptized as Guilin and in 1981 its historical and cultural importance was recognized by the central government.

The City

With slightly over half a million people, Guilin is about half the size of Nanning. In the past, the princes lived and administered the town from within Jingjiang Wang Cheng - Jingjiang Princes City - some forty structures surrounded by a massive wall; Duxiu Peak, occupies the inner royal garden. The design belongs to the Ming Dynasty, with all the buildings arranged symmetrically around the Duxiu Peak.

Shopping

Many tourists use the visit for buying well-reputed local products: silk, teas and perfumes.

Fruits and Food

Guilin is one of the main fruit baskets of China; it would be almost a crime to visit it without tasting the sweet pomelos, the moon persimmon, the oranges and the many other fruits with no common names in English.

The food in Guilin is spiced up - as in most of South East Asia - with chilli but in contrast to its southern neighbours, garlic and fermented soybeans are generously added as well. Horse meat is quite popular in the area; asking about the meat’s source of a dish is recommended.

In modern China, traditional Chinese cultural structures are painfully missing; a silent reminder of the Communist and Culture revolutions. Oddly, gardens are the most delicate cultural feature, but have has proven to be the toughest one to eradicate. Nanning trees and flowers literally suffocate the city, transforming it into a point of harmony between humans and nature; I chose here some of the best gardens.

Nanhu Lake Park

The Nanning Southern Lake Park, offers a subtropical backdrop in the southeast of the city. The lake occupies much of the park, while the rest features traditional pavilions and bridges, like the Seven Holes Bridge.

Paddling boats allow enjoying the lake, from where great views of the surroundings are available. The surrounding tropical trees include several types of palms, like the pinangs, and fruit trees including the enormous Jack-fruit (its heavy fruits grow directly from the trunk), pomelo (another giant and the only South East Asian citrus) and litchis.

Guangxi Yaoyong Zhiwuyuan
Address: 189, Changgang Road
Admission: 20 yuan
Hours: 8am to 6pm

The Guangxi Medicinal Herb Garden is one of the biggest medicinal gardens in China, featuring more than 2000 types of useful herbs. The garden is arranged according to the herbs curative effects, and includes - in the best Chinese tradition - cures for every disease in the book.

Nanning People's Park

Located in the northeastern part of Nanning, the park features an unusual design; from its entrance a long corridor with proudly announced 141 steps leads to the Wangxian Slope’s top. On the pinnacle stands the Zhengning Fort of the Qing Dynasty which features a German canon made in 1890; from there Nanning downtown can be seen.

Down the hill, is the White Dragon Lake; legend says that during the Song Dynasty, the general Di Qing stationed his army on the slope and saw a flock of white sheep shaped like a dragon by the lake and re-baptized it. Within it are the Nine-Bend Bridge Lake Center Pavilion and the White Dragon Tea Hall. Other attractions are the children's playground, the Revolutionary Martyr's Monument, a botanical garden and the Anti-Air Raid Club.

Qingxiushan Fengjingqu
Address: 19, QingShan Road
Admission: 15 yuan

The Qingxiu Mountain is known also as Qingshan and Qingtai; it lies five kilometres southwest of downtown Nanning next to the Yongjiang River and is divided into the Fenghuang, Fengyi and Qingxiu areas. The site’s name defines the Chinese idea for overstatement since the mountain reaches a mere 189m above the sea level.

Qingxiushan was built during the Sui and Tang dynasties and has thus also an unusual historical angle. Its broken ridgeline, grottos, springs and exuberant vegetation, including banyan trees, create a wonderful natural sight within an urban area; in other places it takes weeks of walking away from urban centers to see such a wonder. Out of the ordinary flowers and rare herbs welcome the visitor all the year round; offering maybe a glimpse into the Garden of Eden.

Additional attractions of Guilin are described in this entry; all of them are easily reached independently or with the help of the abundant tourism agencies in downtown.

Yueliang Shan

The Moon Mountain is called so due to a semicircular hole passing it through; that’s all what was left of an eroded limestone cave. It is located nearby the town of Yangshuo, and can be reached from Guilin.

Unluckily, a cement road was paved through the half moon, damaging much of its natural beauty. Another path leads to the summit, from where an excellent view of surrounding karst formations awaits the visitor.

The town of Yangshuo itself is worth mentioning since it is charmingly enclosed between spiky karst formations and the Li River. It is popular for rock climbing, mountain biking and kayaking.

Seven-Star Park and Cave
Park Admission: 35 yuan
Cave Admission: 30 yuan

The park is located within the urban area of Guilin, at the eastern bank of the Li River, roughly one mile away of downtown. The four northern peaks of the Putuo Mountain and the southern three belonging to the Crescent Mountain gave origin to the name, since their arrangement resembles the Big Dipper.

Romantic Chinese names were given to the main views within the park: Flower Bridge, Seven Stars Cave, Camel Hill, Guihai Stele Forest and Light of China Square.

Among those, the most interesting one is the Seven Stars Cave. It includes a kilometer long subterranean path adorned with wonderful natural formations. These can be seen with the help of artificial lights and each has its own name; most of the names are related to animals populating the area or belonging to the Chinese mythology. Its substantial size creates a comfortable inner space, with a width of up to fifty meters and heights reaching almost thirty.

Jingjiang Wang Cheng

In the past, the princes lived and administered the town from within some forty structures surrounded by a massive wall; Duxiu Peak, occupies the inner royal garden.

The complex design belongs to the Ming Dynasty, with all the buildings arranged symmetrically around the Duxiu Peak. Those include eight main halls and pavilions, as well as the ruling and administering structures, and the royal quarters. The impressive yellow and black entrance gate, called Duanli, is the archetypal Chinese gate; few like it survive in modern China. Nowadays, the Jingjiang Princes City historical site in downtown Guilin hosts the Guangxi Normal University.

Its construction began in 1372AC, during the reign of the first emperor from the Ming Dynasty. The palace served home to two emperors - belonging to the Southern Song and the Yuan dynasties – before they were enthroned. Much later, during the Qing Dynasty, the place became the Guangxi Provincial Examination House, from where government administrators graduated. During the twentieth century, Dr. Sun Yat-sen set the headquarters of his North Expedition Army within the compound. Now is a protected site by the Chinese government.