Summer on Vail Mountain

Don't miss the gondola ride to the 8000+ foot summit of Vail mountain. The gondola provides an eagle-eye view of the village below, and at the top, the sunset looks like a lava lamp just exploded above your head.

If this weren't a summer guide to Vail, I would have called this journal 'Vail: A Highway Runs Through It" in honor of loud, ugly, interstate 70, which cuts a black, twisted scar across the belly of the valley. The only way we found to escape the drone of the passing cars was to grab some water bottles, lace up our hiking boots, and take off for "Booth Falls", a favorite hike of locals which ends at a 60 foot waterfall.

If you've got a little money burning a hole in your pocket, there's no better place to indulge yourself than the Allegria Spa at the Hyatt Beaver Creak. Less than for a spa treatment also buys you the run of the Feng Shui assisted facility for the day. Lounge for a while in the eucalyptus-scented steam room, unless a personal jacuzzi (they call them "Russian Baths") is more to your liking.

Quick Tips:

If you're planning to rent a car, you'll save a bundle on airfare by flying to Denver and driving the 100 miles to Vail. Once you get out of the drab suburbs of Denver, you will quickly find yourself immersed in a disorientingly green landscape of majestic mountains and endless ups and downs. My rented Toyota Camry wouldn't go over 45 on the uphills unless we turned off the air conditioning!

Be prepared for temperature extremes. Pack layers! The temperature can drop ten or even twenty degrees in the evening, and you'll be shivering if you haven't remembered to bring a sweater. During the heat of the day, sunblock is an absolute must. If you intend to play golf or tennis, you may very well need a collared shirt.

I thought Vail would be fairly quiet in the summer. Boy was I wrong! In addition to the expected assortment of outdoorsy activities and mountain biking down the ski trails, there are cultural events galore, in some cases more than one a day. Check out the Vail Summer Mountain Guide for a complete guide to summer parties, events, nightlife, festivals, "free stuff", and more.

Best Way To Get Around:

Unlike most ski communities, Vail can be "done" without having to rent a car. There are shuttle buses running just about anywhere you'd want to go. However I'd still recommend renting a car if you're interested in anything more than some light shopping and dining in town and walks or bike rides near your hotel or condo. And don't forget ... parking is free all summer in Vail and Lionshead Villages!

Vail Village/Lionshead Village shuttle: 970-328-8143 (free service)

Vail/Beaver Creak bus 970-949-6121

Vail Valley Taxi: 970/476-8008 open 24h

The airy, family-friendly Dusty Boot has been serving reasonably priced Tex-Mex treats to Vail visitors since 1998. The staff was exceptionally friendly and the location charming, with its blonde wood interior and cheery tin ceiling. Don't let the name fool you - there is no dust anywhere and the word 'saloon' never crossed my mind while we were there!

I'd call the cuisine "Tex-Mex with a twist". Nothing was quite what we expected, from the Texas Eggrolls (chicken and roasted corn inside a Chinese-style eggroll) to the Peach and Bleu Cheese salad with toasted walnuts. Our group of seven also gave rave reviews to the Blackened Tomato Chipolte salsa (very mild but not lacking in flavor!), and the White Bean and Smokehouse Bacon soup (rich and creamy!). I particularly enjoyed the variety of toppings available for the "Build your Own Darn Burger!". Whether your tastes run to beef, chicken, veggie, or buffalo burger, you can pick from several different types of cheese, numerous veggies, and even green chili strips.

The wine list was limited, but lets be realistic - you don't go to a place like the Dusty Boot for wine. A margarita would be a better choice to go with entrees like the Camarones al Mojo de Ajo (pan-seared shrimp tossed in smoked jalapeno garlic cream sauce).

Lunch entrees from $7.95 - $11.95, dinner from $14.95 - $29.95

In a village where every other restaurant name ends in "haus", Pepi and Sheika Gramshammer have ruled the Austrian dining scene since 1964. In my hometown of Manhattan, Pepi's would be considered hopelessly high camp, but would probably be just as packed. Upon first glimpse, it looked like a nightmare caused by falling asleep during a screening of the Sound of Music. I had to be dragged by my friends onto the Disney-esque outdoor dining deck, where orange polka-dotted umbrellas sat perkily over tables covered with bright green checked tablecloths, and chubby waitresses bursting out of their tightly corseted Austrian dresses bustled by the flower-bedecked railings. All this against a backdrop of mustard-yellow, relentlessly cheerful walls. I could only groan and reach for my sunglasses, hoping to shield myself from the color contrasts.

A few summery weisse beers later, I was as happy as a Von Trapp teenager with a new ukelele. Pepi's outdoor deck is a fantastic place to sit and watch the summer tourists go by - and the food is really good! Knowing very little about Austrian cuisine, I was expecting a menu with two choices: bratwurst and liverwurst - but I was pleasantly surprised. My salad was simply gorgeous, overflowing its plate with fluffy fresh lettuce and veggies. Sandwiches, including an impressive Salmon Avocado Club, were fresh and tasty. The Austrian specialties were as good as you would expect: Wienerschnitzel (breaded veal) and Bratwurst (your choice of pork or veal) were given high marks by my more culinarily adventurous friends, as was a small but rich Spinach Strudel. The only disappointment on the table was a Chicken Imperial salad entrée, which was roughly the same size as my house salad and not very filling. For dessert, the seven of us devoured a homemade apple raisin strudel with a scoop of vanilla ice cream melting atop it.

Pepi's also has two indoor dining rooms. One serves Continental cuisine and Austrian specialties, and the other features wild game. Both were empty on the sunny afternoon that we visited Pepi's, but reservations are probably a good idea for dinner, and the deck can get crowded for lunch during the summer.

Mmm, Sweet Basil? The name didn't inspire my mouth to water, but it was highly recommended by our condo-owning friends, so off we went. A Vail tradition for 24 years, Sweet Basil stays fresh by periodically hiring new chefs, who lend their own particular slants to the creative American cuisine. Chef Bruce Yim's slant is Pacific Rim, and the effects are delicious.

The modern décor of the restaurant has a simple, elegant feel. My only real complaints were deafening noise and a nervous waiter who seemed terrified by the prospect of spending the evening with seven women dressed to the nines and ready to party. His fellow waitrons noticed his distress, however, and before long we had a staff of four catering to our every whim. Sweet Basil is a great place to celebrate. The hostess found out that were having a bachelorette weekend and got a cute male regular at the bar to stop by our table claiming to be a stripper - which was much funnier and less embarrassing than a visit from a real stripper. Hours later, after dinner, dessert, and grappa, when our party of seven outnumbered the remaining staff, we met the chef and bartenders, who offered us complimentary sherry.

Wine figures prominently in the Sweet Basil experience. The entranceway wall is dotted with a decade worth of awards from Wine Spectator magazine. Wine can also be found tucked into the sauces that grace appetizers and entrees, like a grilled pork chop in red wine reduction, or truffle and shiitake potstickers in a merlot leek sauce. Naturally we had wine with dinner. We're all Cabernet fanatics, but when keeping expenses down, a $150 Stag's Leap is out of the question. Instead, we splurged on two Napa favorites, a '97 ZD and a Paradigm. The ZD was cheaper and much more interesting: a full, ripe flavor, with toast and oak accents as well as hints of plum and chocolate.

Service was slow at first, so we were grateful when our appetizers arrived and every one was a winner. Squash blossoms stuffed with ricotta in a balsamic reduction was heavenly. Both sesame tuna tartare and warm lobster salad with corn blinis were amazing. A few standout entrees were the orange chili glazed tuna, and the aforementioned pork chop served with a heavy but intriguingly smoky sticky rice spring roll.

And ahh, dessert … why pick one when they have a Dessert Sampler plate? When supplemented by the Chocolate Tasting, it's perfect for sharing. Their signature sticky toffee pudding cake with rum sauce melted in the mouth. A berry tart in a hazelnut shell was the ideal mixture of sweet and tart. And then there was the Holy Trinity of chocolate: chocolate profiterole, flourless chocolate cake, and chocolate pate. Must be tasted to be believed.

Don't miss a lunch or dinner at Sweet Basil whether you're in Vail to ski or to sunbathe. It's a real gem.

You won't mistake it for Moab, but if Moab's summer heat is hell, then Vail's comparatively cool summer must be heaven. They're even hosting the 2001 World Mountain Bike Championships this year. We didn't have much time to explore, but I'll tell you where we went - and where we would have gone if we had time.

Downhill Thrill
Take the Lionshead Gondola to Eagle's Nest on Vail Mountain. You can rent a bike and helmet there if you don't have one - if you do, it costs $10 to bring it with you to the summit. Your choices on the way down are the wide, forgiving Village Trail, or the singletrack Liondown Trail.

Easy Does It
The Vail Recreation Path is popular not only for its mix of scenic views and smooth pavement, but also because it is accessible from many of the condos and hotels along the highway. Winding along the bottom of the White River National Forest, the path will take you through seven miles of soaring mountainsides and placid meadows. You'll never get far enough away from the interstate to forget it's there, but hills are not too deadly and the gurgling waters of Gore Creek are never far away.

Rentals
Both Vail Village and Lionshead Village offer inexpensive bike rentals in summer:

Vail Bike Tech
Lift House Lodge
970-476-5995

Performance Sports
Lionshead Mall
970-476-1718

Wheel Base
Lionshead
970-476-5799
Vail Village
970-476-0913

Booth Falls
Choosing a hike in Vail is hard. I'd rather choose a name for my first-born child - but fortunately I didn't have to do either. We had a long-time Colorado resident with us, and she recommended the Booth Falls hike, a favorite of locals for its dramatic views, cascading waterfalls, and ebullient wildflowers. Intermediate hikers can spend 2-3 hours hiking up to a 60 foot waterfall, or make a day of it and go the additional four miles to Booth Lake. We chose the former, but paused so often for photos that we ran out of time and didn't even make it to the waterfall. Even so, we still enjoyed the progression from steep, rocky paths through dramatic aspen groves to the wide-open expanses of fields dotted with wildflowers.

Booth Lake
Four miles past the falls is Booth Lake, a destination best suited for experienced hikers with good footwear. You will gain over 3000 feet in elevation, following burbling Booth Creek through conifer forests and eventually ending up at 11,480 feet (so you might want to wait until you've adjusted to the altitude before attempting this one!) The last stretch is reputedly difficult and steep, but the lake gets rave reviews in many guidebooks for its pristine beauty.

How to Get There:
From I-70 in East Vail, take exit 180 to Booth Falls Road. Make a right and park where the road ends. There is also a public bus which stops just down the hill from the trailhead.

If tiny Beaver Creek is the crown jewel of Vail's three villages, and the Hyatt Regency is the crème de la crème of Beaver Creek hotels, then the Hyatt's Allegria Spa must be one hell of a mixed metaphor ... but never mind, I'm rambling. Walking through the Hyatt's gorgeously appointed alpine-inspired lobby is awe-inspiring enough to tie the tongue of any would-be travel writer. But throw in an afternoon at their Allegria Spa and even Paul Theroux wouldn't be able to think straight. The place is quintessential Colorado at its finest: massive stone fireplaces looming over cozy-looking sofas and reading nooks, elaborate chandeliers made of gleaming white antlers, and impeccably chosen fabrics and art throughout. But enough about the lobby - I want to tell you about the spa!

Anyone who's read my other journals knows that I'm a sucker for a good massage when I'm on vacation. But now that I've been to the Allegria Spa, I have to raise my standards a notch or two… you see, no one has ever rubbed my feet with honey pumice cream before! But the 50 minute Swedish massage is only one reason to visit this beautifully appointed spa and resort. Here's another: they also offer Hot Stone Massage, Wild Mountain Berry Scrub, Japanese Mint Oil Wraps, Deluxe Facial with Oxygen Boost, Parrafin Hand Dips, and an intriguing-looking mud wrap and water massage called the Moor Mud Remedy, which has its own special treatment room. Tempted? Prices range from $60 for a basic 25 min. Swedish massage to $360 for a 90 min. couples massage. Packages are also available in the $220-400 range. And one more incentive: our group of 6 spa-goers was able to coax the front desk into giving us a 15% discount on our services.

But if all that doesn't tickle your fancy, keep in mind that your spa treatment gives you access to the entire facility for as long as you care to stay. This includes:

- the luxurious locker rooms, which feature eucalyptus-scented steam rooms, individual jacuzzis, and a full complement of toiletries - not to mention your very own robe and rubber flip-flops
- the indoor/outdoor pool and six outdoor whirlpools
- co-ed sauna
- complimentary tea and book bar, with healthy snacks and comfy chairs
- "The Sanctuary" - a masterpiece of Feng Shui technique, this surprisingly relaxing room must be experienced to be believed. While the afternoon away in your own personal hi-tech black leather barcalounger.

More about the Hyatt and it's delightful spa can be found here: Hyatt Regency at Beaver Creek

For Spa Appointments call 970-748-7500

Note to the budget conscious! If you like the idea of Allegria, but don't want to fork over that much cash, check out the Activity entry for the Vail Racquet Club, which will let you use their not-as-nice but nevertheless quite lovely facility for $20 a day, which also has tennis courts!

There's more than just tennis courts at the Vail Racquet Club. Located four miles east of Vail Village, this laid-back club features a full-service spa, 25 meter outdoor pool with delightful waterfall views, fitness center, outdoor hot tub, locker room and sauna, and of course the 14 tennis courts.

The lap pool had no diving board or lifeguard, a fair amount of kids in it (but not an excessive amount!) and plenty of lounge chairs from which to enjoy the blazing Colorado sun.

The best part is, you don't need to be a member to use their facilities for the very reasonable price of $20 per day. If you happen to know a member like we did, the guest fee is even less ($10).

More information can be found here: Vail Racquet Club

Like the Vail Racquet Club, the Vail Golf Club has a relaxed, laid-back atmosphere that is just perfect for practicing your swing. It's a public driving range and golf course located 1.5 miles east of Vail Village, with exceptionally cute souvenir caps and clothes for sale in the Pro shop, and an array of tasty snacks and drinks for sale. The staff is friendly and helpful, and even on a summer Saturday at 11am, it wasn't crowded. The driving range is located directly in front of a gorgeous panorama of the jagged, snow-tipped peaks east of Vail mountain. The only thing marring the sunny, idyllic setting is the ever-present noise of good old Interstate 70 in the distance.

Keep in mind that despite the mellow setting, collared shirts are a must to use the facilities.

A photo of the stunning view from the driving range: Is this a view or what?

Normally, I loathe shopping. But in the presence of six other women, my hormones go kerflooey, I become fascinated with Cosmo and In Style magazines, and my wallet begins to levitate out of my purse in search of the nearest mall. Following is a sampling of our Girly Shopping Expedition, where everyone found a bargain of her own to love, and only one of us spent more than $100. All stores are located within easy walking distance of each other in relentlessly quaint Vail Village (Bavarian style with appalling public art scattered everywhere).

Kiss the Moon
234 Gore Creek Drive
970-479-8165

Possibly the very embodiment of girliness, Kiss the Moon is pure unadulterated fun. They are primarily a cosmetics shop, but also sell appropriately cute and spunky accessories, like purses made from sexy bustiers or jeans, halter tops made from bandanas, and fabulous Cosabella lingerie (including the most comfortable thongs on the planet, in a great variety of colors, but waaaay overpriced.) Also jewelry, like Jeanine Payer's so-cool-it-hurts bracelets and necklaces hand engraved with quirky sayings and poems. Then there's the toys ... bizarro inventions like rubber nipple enhancers you tuck into your bra for that perky look, and girly board games meant for playing with friends on a lazy summer afternoon. The real fun, though, was sampling the lotions, scents, and makeup on display, like trend-setting Canadian products from Fresh.

Polo Ralph Lauren
183-3 Gore Creek Drive
970-476-3700

I'm going to let you in on a little secret: someone at the Polo store is sleeping on the job. Normally when items linger too long in the retail stores, prices are marginally reduced and then shortly thereafter, they are shipped off to some outlet store where their dirt-cheap prices won't embarrass their fellow garments. Not so in Vail, where someone forgot to send this summer's leftovers out to pasture. 40% markdowns weren't uncommon. Several of us scored a great-looking skinny patent leather belt in black or red for $19, a far cry from the near $100 original price tag. In a shopping coup that someone should really write an epic poem about, Lynn found a $300 alligator belt for $19. Nicole couldn't find the 40% off bikini she wanted in her size, so they found one for her at another store, and shipped it to her free of charge. They may not do this every year, so hurry while supplies last.

Colorado Footwear
183 East Gore Creek Drive
970-476-3130

While not as fun as Kiss the Moon or as bargain-filled as Polo, Colorado Footwear had elements of both, plus a broad selection, from hiking boots to strappy sandals. On the check-this-out-you-will-die-laughing, Kiss-the-Moon-ish side, they had campy over-the-top cowboy boots in creamy pastels with contrasting color appliques, and faux ski boots complete with metal buckles. On the I'll-fight-you-for-the-last-one, Polo-esque side, they had a great sale going on both timeless and trendy designers like Cole-Haan, Desiderata, Franco Sarto, and Sacha of London.