Romans, Muslims, and Christians in Cordoba

My friend and I could not be in Spain and not try the local cuisine. Spain is especially famous for its tapas (kind of starters), and eating four or five tapas is like eating a full meal.

We had been to Plaza de la Corradera for a quick drink during the day between two visits and we noticed that many restaurants were closed because of the drenchy heat. We decided to come back on the evening to try the local cuisine.

Plaza de la Corradera is a beautiful rectangular square with a typical Cordovan atmosphere: there are numerous bars, shops, restaurants, and from time to time an open-air market. The arches and balconies were recently repainted with bright colours (I had seen photos of my parents' Cordovan stay in 1974, and there was a huge difference). Plaza de la Corradera is a deeply popular place and it is where Cordovans like to go at evenings for a beer or tapas.

The Spanish eat late. It is not surprising to see people eating at 11pm. So, we followed the local customs and arrived at Plaza de la Corradera at 9pm to try the local tapas.

There was a lot of difference compared to the afternoon: restaurants had put their tables and chairs outside and an unbelievable crowd of youngsters were drinking, eating, and smoking. We had trouble choosing a restaurant, all menus were identical and the prices varied very little in substance. So, we chose a free table in a restaurant in the middle of the square, between several groups of young Spanish people relaxing around a beer.

The menu was in Spanish only, and with my basic knowledge of the language, it was not easy for me to translate it for my friend. There were three sizes of tapas : small (starter for 1 person, about 1.20 to 2.50 euros), medium (starter for 2 persons, about 2.50-3.50 euros), and "full meal" (6-7 euros). Hot tapas are slightly more expensive than cold ones.

Since my friend and I wanted to experiment different kind of tapas, we chose four small and two medium-sized tapas (jamón y queso - ham and cheese-, champiñones - mushrooms-, calamaris, fried springrolls, etc. for an overall price of 12 euros--drinks included).

I am not very difficult when it comes to food, but my friend is, and he told me he loved eating in Plaza de la Corradera and that he would go there again anytime, even though service was a bit slow.

Seeing Christian altars in an ancient Mosque will undoubtedly surprise you. I certainly did not expect to see such a cathedral in the middle of a mosque. The history of the cathedral is as follows: in 1236, when Fernand III conquered the city of Cordoba, the mosque became a Cathedral (of the Virgin’s Assumption) instead of being destroyed, like many other mosques during the Reconquista.

The reforms brought to the former mosque strongly affected the north zone where all naves were closed, except the one that became the entry of the Cathedral under the name of Puerta de las Palmas. On the other hand, 52 chapels were constructed and the sumptuous Mirhab became the vestry of the present chapel of San Pedro. The transformation of the Mosque into a Cathedral lasted 243 years (1523-1766).

After the transformations that were necessary to adapt the temple to the needs of the Catholic cult, the Capilla Mayor (Major Chapel) was built under the Catholic Kings with its precious marble altarpiece and its marvelous odd style church tabernacle, and is located next to the chapel of Villaviciosa from where the transept and the Gothic bows detach themselves.

There are a few other chapels worth a short stop: in the chapel of San Bartholome, is buried Luis of Góngora, a famous Spanish baroque poet. ; in the chapel of "las Animas", I was reminded of pre-Columbian America when seeing the Inca Garcilaso de la Vega.. In the chapel of the "Concepción", I could admire sculptures by Pedro de Mena (famous sculptor whose works can also be seen in Malaga, Madrid, Toledo and Murcia) and, in the chapel of the Cardinal Salazar, a statue of Santa Teresa sculpted by José de Mora.

Not to be missed is the treasure of the cathedral where the Monstrance is kept; it is the main work of Henri de Arfe, and it is more of 2.5 metres high and 200 kilograms. This "Custodia" was carried in procession for the first time on Corpus Christi in 1518.

Recently, the Bishop of Cordoba refused the right for Muslims to pray in the Mezquita-Cathedral, arguing that it was nowadays a place for the Catholic cult only.

Opening times are the same as for the Mezquita (see my review of it) and the visit is included in your ticket for the Mezquita. Definitely the most unusual place to see a Cathedral and this is not to be missed!

The Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos is not as beautiful as the Alcazar of Seville but it is nonetheless worth a visit, especially for its sumptuous gardens.

For your information, the construction of the Alcazar was undertaken in 1328, under the protection of Alphonse XI and later, the Alcázar underwent some transformations. During the campaign for the reconquest of Grenada, it was in this Alcázar that the Catholic Kings lived.

Its style is mudejar and its shape is square. Some strong towers stand at the four corners of the construction and around, the beautiful gardens that descend until the strands of the Guadalquivir River are the highlight of the visit. Three towers of the Alcázar are still standing. These are: the tower "del Rio", "del Homenaje" - in which we can visit a splendid lounge with Gothic influences - and the Lions tower which is also mudejar in style.

In the Alcázar, I visited various archaeological vestiges reminding me of the historic past of Cordoba: a 2nd or 3rd Century marble sarcophagus and seven beautiful Roman mosaics. I also noticed the ancient baths, the mudejar-style interior court and the gardens.

The Alcázar of Cordoba was also a place of stay (or to be jailed). It is there that Boabdil the Small (last monarch of the Moslem Granada) was jailed; also it is where the Catholic Kings welcomed Christopher Columbus before his departure for the New World. From 1490 to 1821 the Inquisition headquarters were in the Alcázar.

In the huge gardens, I could see the statue of Christopher Columbus meeting the Catholic Kings and wander among cypresses, palmtrees and myrtles, but that day it was especially hot (July 2006), so I did not stay for too long outside even though the trees in the gardens gave me some refreshment from the canicular heat.

Entrance is 4€ and its opening hours vary according to the season:
May to September : Tuesday-Saturday 10am-2pm and 6pm to 8pm; Sunday 9:30am-3pm;
October to April: Tuesday to Saturday 10am to 2pm and 4:30pm to 6:30pm; Sunday 9:30am to 2:30pm.

When I was in Cordoba, I could not miss a visit of some patios in the old city because the adorable patios of Cordoba are really appealing. There are some which are luxurious others that are deeply popular, but all are original and extraordinarily clean, introverted, intimate and decorated with plants and flowers. The patios have two origins: Roman and Arabian. The Cordovan patio was the intimate "agora" of the Roman and the intimate corner of the Arabic.

Do not believe that the patio is only seen in the big houses. The patios are like small gardens that flood the house with joy, beauty and liberty, and that is why the patios are present even in the most modest homes and its reason is thus the same in the palace that in the humblest lodgings.

The patios of Cordoba communicate directly with the rooms and the galleries of the houses. Sometimes the communication between the patio and the interior is done through the intermediary of windows and balconies, sometimes by porches or even balustrades

The walls that surround the patios are covered literally of flowers and trailing plants. Oranges, lemon trees and flowers of all sorts perfuming the whole patio give it a small air of continual feast and offer us some tranquillity in the heart of the city.

The patios are so much part of the city life that during the first two weeks of May, there is a Patio Festival during which people exuberantly decorate their patios in order to get a prize.

The patios that you can admire in Cordoba are very numerous, very different one from another, all have their particular style. The 14 patios of the palace of the Marquis of Viana are definitely worth a visit. Entrance is €6 and the patios are open to the public Mondays to Fridays from 10am to 1pm and 4pm to 6pm (closed on Saturdays afternoons and Sundays).

The Palacio Museo de Viana is a beautiful mansion covering an area of 6,500 square metres. Inside you can appreciate the evolution of the Cordovan architecture from the 14th century until nowadays, as well as the most diverse types of craft: pavements with Roman mosaics, carpentry, etc. However, the patios are in my opinion more interesting than the interior. The 15th century patio at the entrance is pleasantly decorated, like all the others in which there are numerous orange trees, cypresses, water fountains and flowers and it is a real pleasure going from a patio to another and discover a different style, different influence.

Of course, there are other patios to visit in the area (Plaza Obispo; Calle Basilio 50; Calle Cardinal Herrero 16, Calle Badanas 15, Calle José Rey, Calle Don Rodrigo, Calle of Enmedio 25 and 29, etc.). You can ask at the Tourist Office which ones are open during your stay in Cordoba.

The gold of your ceilings shines like the lightning crossing the clouds, said one Spanish poet when describing la Mezquita.

Seen from the outside, the dazzling Mezquita, jewel of Spanish Art, looks more like a military fortress than a religious temple. It is only once I entered inside that I could admire its magnificent architectural designs.

Opening times in summer: 10am-7pm Monday to Saturday; Sundays and Bank Holidays from 9am to 10:15am and 2pm to 7pm. Timetables change with the seasons, so check the exact opening times when you arrive. Entrance is 8€ (discounts for children).

Inside the Mezquita, I could witness four architectural styles corresponding to four construction stages (and the people who inspired it):
- 785 to 793 (Abdelramman I, emir of Cordoba): the main door open towards the North was built as well as the eleven rooms of the central part. The mosque was inaugurated in 793.
- 833 to 848: (Abdelramman II) the mosque is widened towards the South and nine supplementary arches were added.
- 964 to 965 (Al-Haqem II) : the mosque is again widened towards the south and reaches between 964 and 965 the shape of a gigantic rectangle. Eleven others arches were added near the outside wall of the temple, the rooms are widened by adding thirteen columns for each row - and finally, the magnificent Mihrab was built, whose decoration is currently considered as the chef d’oeuvre of Byzantine design in Spain. It is then the apogee of the mosque of Cordoba.
- 987 onwards (Al-Manzor): The temple is extended towards the East.

During these four construction stages, the overall architectural silhouette varied little in substance.

The current main door of the Mosque (Puerta del Perdón, 14th century) is oriented towards the North and is mudejar in style. Past the entrance, the labyrinth of the columns shows us the overflowing Oriental imagination canalized by religious rigor and partially transformed by Christian sculptors. The styles of the columns are diverse: Ionic, Corinthian or mixed, and most of them are painted in diverse ways: the blue and white arches are Muslim; the religious paintings on other arches are undoubtedly Christian.

But the highlight of the mosque is undoubtedly the marvellous Mihrab. The wealth of the three chapels that composes it is indeed fabulous. Its imposing arches with their extraordinarily beautiful Byzantine mosaics, marvellously designed marbles and beautiful multicolored columns dazzle us. The "Mihrab" is one of the highlights of the Arabian architecture in Spain. During the times of the Caliphate, it is there that was kept the precious Koran copied by the Caliph Oman and authenticated by his own blood.

La Mezquita is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful mosques I ever visited and the most beautiful Spanish one. Not to be missed!