Traditions seem to be carefully protected in the center of Lisbon. Because of this, the city has succeeded in retaining last century's charm in the downtown area. Streets and plazas seem adapted to a slower time than the present.
Baixa, or downtown Lisbon, is the heart of the city. It is the main shopping and banking district that stretches from the riverfront to the Avenida da Liberdade, with streets named according to the shopkeepers and craftsmen who traded in the area.
It was completely rebuilt after the Great Earthquake of 1755 with streets flanked by uniform, neoclassical buildings. This was Europe's first great example of neoclassical design and urban planning, and one of the finest European architectural achievements of the age.
It remains an imposing district, with elegant squares, pedestrianized streets, cafes, and shops. Old tramcars, street performers, tiled Art Deco shopfronts, elaborately decorated pastry shops, and street vendors, all lend a special charm to the area.
I love Baixa because it oozes life, its old world charm mixing easily with today’s action. Rua Augusta is the main tourist street and here alongside the Art Nouveau store fronts, grizzled old locals read the papers hung at corner kiosks and tourists settle in at premium-rate pavement cafés watching a parade of buskers, street artists and the ubiquitous Peruvian pan pipers.
The Baixa’s central square, Rossio, provides some of the best free entertainment in the city. All of Lisbon’s masses seem to drift across Rossio’s undulating mosaic paving at some time. Stop for a coffee and watch the passing scene.
Adjacent Praça da Figueira retains more endearing old world charm. Alongside ornate seed shops, fish hang in giant salted sheaves from old-fashioned shops while lottery sellers, con men and backpackers mill around. The statue of Dom João I forms the dignified centrepiece. On the south side, the charmingly old-fashioned Confeitaria Nacional was considered to be one of Europe’s most elegant salons when it opened in 1829, its saliva-inducing window displays now include fine pastries and cakes smothered in cream.
Don’t miss the eccentric Elevador de Santa Justa. It is one of Lisbon’s most iconic and memorable images. Designed by Raoul Mesnier du Ponsard, who also designed Lisbon’s other three remaining elevadores, it was inaugurated in 1902. Originally powered by steam, the 45-m vertical wrought-iron structure was built to link the Baixa with Largo do Carmo.
Quick Tips:
The area's top three sights are undoubtedly Comercio Square, Rossio Square, and the Santa Justa Elevator. Don’t miss any of these.
Don't forget to look down at the cobbled mosaic pavements as you walk down Avenida da Liberdade, past Restauradores, Rossio, and into Rua Augusta.
The nondescript facade of the "Casa do Alentejo" restaurant in Rua das Portas de Santo Antao hides a most beautiful Moorish interior. The price of the meal (reasonably high, but the food is excellent) is justified by the surroundings.
Take a walk down Rua Augusta, the city's main shopping street but you will find that most goods can be found cheaper elsewhere.
Stop and look at Sao Domingos Church, to the right of the National Theatre. This is either blessed or cursed, as it has survived fires and earthquakes. Prior to the Great Earthquake of 1755 this was where the São Domingos Convent stood, from which the Inquisition read out its sentences. In 1950 it was partially destroyed by a fire and has since undergone restoration.
Rua das Portas de Santo Antao is a pedestrian street lined with seafood and other restaurants. Take a stroll along here to see if something appeals and also explore some of the small side streets for less touristy options.
Even if you hate trains, take a look both inside and out at monumental Rossio Station. The eight external doors match the nine palatial windows and the incredibly decorated clock tower located on the top of the facade. Inside the station is a curiosity in that the platforms are some 30 metres above the main entrance.
At the end of Avenida da Liberdade, the city's main avenue, you will see Marques de Pombal Square, a roundabout dedicated to one of the city's historical figures and beyond that Edward V11 Park, the city's largest park. This area provides a pleasant interlude away from some of the traffic noise.Best Way To Get Around:
Walking is the only way to adequately see the whole of Baixa. There are pedestrianised streets and lovely squares where you can walk in comfort. Taxis are available from all the squares if you need to venture further.
There is plenty of public transport adjacent or passing through this area. The Terreiro do Paco ferry terminal is close to Commerce Square while Rossio train station is close to the center of things. Three metro stations serve this area – Baia Chiado, Rossio, and Restauradores. Trams and buses also pass through the area.