Bermuda - Simply Paradise

Wow - what a pleasant surprise. We've visited Bermuda about a dozen times since 1961 and have never chosen to stay at this Princess. This time it was the best deal - we took a deep breath and booked it... A deep breath, because we prefer small properties with easy access to the beach and dislike convention hotels.

The Fairmont Southampton is impressive – pink with all its white balconies – it sits atop a hill overlooking both the ocean and the harbor. The lush green landscaping and well cared for Par 3 Golf Course looks beautiful against the blue sky and clear turquoise water. The large two story lobby is welcoming – shops, restaurants, and a lounge with nightly entertainment and very comfortable seating. The few small convention groups were unobtrusive, quiet and away from the hotel at most times. The wedding parties were more noticeable – all very gregarious both at the beach during the day and at the bar at night. Not many children at this time of year - school is in session. Most guests seemed to be from the East coast or from England - Lots of young couples and many retired folks. Everyone well dressed and seemed to be well traveled.

All rooms have balconies, most with a waterview. At 450 square feet with sliding French doors, they are very light and spacious. The view each time you enter brings a smile to your face. You’ll find all the amenities that you may want – a minibar (outrageously priced), a huge walk-in closet, magnifying mirror, hair dryer, lush toiletries, double sinks with granite counters, marble bathroom, ironing board, Internet access (complimentary if your are a President's club member) both a coffee and tea pot, a comfy sofa, and an even more comfy bed!

The desk area is large, well lit and has easy access to outlets. The king-bedded rooms have an upholstered pull-out sofa and big chair – these are not offered in the rooms with two beds. The TV cabinet also serves as a dresser and a well-equipped bar area. One of the more pleasant rooms that we’ve stayed in.

The resort is large – a beach club, golf course, tennis courts, spa, indoor and outdoor pools and Jacuzzis, shops, probably seven restaurants, and two bars with nightly entertainment. A shuttle runs continually to transport you – even a complimentary water shuttle makes five trips daily to the Fairmont's sister resort in Hamilton.

We’re really happy that we had such a wonderful experience at this large hotel – we’re looking forward to a return visit.

Just off the lobby at the Fairmont Southampton was a fave of ours - Jasmine's - a large comfortable room by day - lots of energy by night.
We loved the seating areas with comfy sofas and upholstered chairs, a few tables for dining, meeting or card playing, a long bar, a dance floor and an outdoor wrap-around deck overlooking the pool.
On our arrival day, we sat on the deck at an umbrella table and enjoyed cocktails and a sandwich. Business men were having lunch inside - a bride to be was sipping wine while going over details with the wedding planner - a couple of golfers were having a beer and a family was eating lunch before heading to the airport.
Evenings are busy in this room - It's the place to be - a piano player entertains from 6PM - 9PM - his quiet music is perfect for enjoying specialty martinis before dinner. Tables for dining are set with place-mats and a small vase of flowers and the bar is great for casually meeting people. The dark wood tones resemble a library but the seating arrangements soften the look and feel of this large room. As the evening wears on, sofas are filled with people stopping by for desert or after dinner drinks. At 9PM a trio changes the mood, more upbeat and a few couples dance, but most are just happy to sit and enjoy.
The specialty martinis are double size and served really chilled. The menu is varied - look at it hereandwiches, salads, soups, appetizers,pizzas and five or six main course selections - we really enjoyed the roast chicken, the steaks are tasty and done as ordered and pasta portions are large. Chocolate martinis were our dessert.

A long time favorite of locals and visitors in Bermuda is the well known "Swizzle Inn" - a "must" visit for us on each of our trips.
Don't expect the usual stiff and proper atmosphere of the British here - this is a fun "pub" - mismatched chairs, wooden tables with lover's names carved on them for years, somewhat sticky feeling to the table top - paper menus stained and crumpled from re-use and the restaurant always crowded with happy smiling people.
Easily accessible by bus or motorbike, this pub i busy from morning 'til late night.....first off -order thir famous "Rum Swizzle" - a drink made of Gosling rums - both dark and light, a mixture of fruit juices and a "secret" ingredient.....well chilled and served in the smallest old fashion cocktail glasses - you'll remember what I mean when you see them - the kind you grandmother served champagne in..... And don't order just one - a get a full pitcher - evven a 1/2 pitcher son't do.....they're addictive - a bit sweet - go down too easily and are VERY potent....watch out!!!!
We've always stopped there late afternoon - usually after a day at the beach for a pitcher and snacks. Our favorite.....very large puffy beer battered onion rings - a BIG basket to share - $5.95. A nachos plate - enough for 6 to share - $8.95 and Buffalo wings - about a dozen of them for $8.95. All orders are quite large - even the burgers. Sandwiches can be shared - plates are piled high and accompanied with fried. Food is served hot and fried foods are crispy and flavorful.
You can choose to sit on the patio with an umbrella table - on the 2nd floor covered porch or inside the tavern. We like the porch. they also have a shop that sells logo wear and a variety of gifts.....their motto is....."Swizzle Inn...Stagger Out" .
They've done so well over the years tha a new Swizzle Inn has opened on the South Shore Road not far from the Horseshoe Bay
Also easily accessible by #7 bus or moped. We've never eaten dinner there, but the Bermuda Chowder and platters of fish and Chips look great.
I you stopped in via moped and found tha tthe Swizzles went down too.... easilyand that you ips are numb....don't get back ono your bike.....walk down the hill to Grotto Bay Resort to swim and relax until you feel safe to get back on the bikes.
take a look at the "Swizzle Inn" on line and read my review of Grotto Bay - you can even buy "Swizzles" in a bottle to take home. It'll bring back good memeories, but somehow -"something" - that secret ingredient - is missing. Guess we'll just have to return to Bermuda and to the Swizzle Inn.

Picture this large hotel, surrounded by a golf course atop a hill - the front overlooks the ocean - the back faces the harbor. The road along the ocean is South Shore Road and Middle Road is on the harbor side. It's about 1/3 mile to either...not bad going downhill - but quite a workout uphill.

On the ocean is Fairmont's Beach Club, tennis courts, Ocean Restaurant, Dive Shop, Sundries Shop and the Cabana Beach Bar for drinks and casual lunch food. The sister resort in Hamilton also has access to this Beach Club since they do not have a beach in town. The renowned Waterlot Inn is at the harbor and this is also where the Fairmont private ferry is docked. On property is also the Golf Club and its Italian restaurant Bacci. So how do you get from point A to B to C...?

A trolley type shuttle runs from 7am until about midnight and circles between the Beach Club, Waterlot and on request to the Golf Club. The drivers are friendly and although there is no set schedule, we never waited more than 5 minutes or so for a ride.

Want to go to Hamilton for shopping, dinner in town or to visit the Fairmont? A complimentary ferry shuttle docked at Waterlot makes five trips daily between the Fairmont Hamilton and the Fairmont Southampton. It's a 1/2 hour lovely, scenic ride and there is seating outdoors on the top deck and bow - some sheltered seating aft in the shade and some indoor seating. To me the ride is so relaxing and scenic that it's worth taking just back and forth even if you have no plans to stop anywhere. It's timed nicely for shopping too - go in at 9:30am - return at 1:30pm and the non-shopper can just sit by the pool overlooking the harbor that is busy with sailboats and ferries for a couple of hours. And you can enjoy all the amenities at the sister hotel - you have signing privileges.

Going to dinner at night? Taxis are lined up at the hotel - never a wait - about $25 each way to town. Some guests rent mopeds for getting around, but few use them at night. The last ferry goes in at 6:15pm - so you would have to take a bus or ferry back. A bus stop is conveniently located on both roads that run by the hotel - $3 to town. We liked taking the complimentary hotel ferry to town at 6:15pm - a little early - have a drink at the Hamilton Princess or stroll around town - shops are closed though...after dinner we take a late bus back on route #7 to the Waterlot where the hotel tram is waiting.

You need change only for the bus - no bills. The concierge sells tokens for $2.50 or a day pass for $12. The best deal that we found though - take the complimentary ferry to Hamilton and walk to the ferry dock (1/4 mile) to purchase a strip of tickets - $20 for 15 tickets that can be shared. These strips of tickets are only sold at the bus depot and ferry dock.

Fairmont is a large resort a few miles from town on a lovely beach (next to Horseshoe Bay) but it does have lots of options for convenient transportation if you care to leave the resort.

Exploring from St. George’s – Day 1

Over the past few years, St. George’s has evolved into a lovely port – unfortunately most of the newer ships are too large to enter that harbor through the very narrow channel – you have to give up quality of ship for the charm of docking here. But any visitor to Bermuda can m;ake their way here via ferry, bus, taxi or cycle.
Historical sites have always been popular – the Anglican Church, the ………museum……St. Catherine’s Fort and……………… A few beaches are close by, Tobacco Bay and St. Catherine’s Beach below the fort and the abandoned hotel (former Club Med) are good snorkeling spots and Clearwater Beach is a quiet escape from the tourists. All are accessible via minibus for $3 each way. What I’m most impressed with are the new shops that are being built along cobblestone streets and the restaurants overlooking courtyards and the harbor…All have a clean new look while still maintaining the old world ambiance. Outdoor cafes are everywhere to enjoy day and night.
I’ll focus more on cruise ship stays of three days in this review with excursions and lots of beach time. Usually two ships are docked here – always on weekdays and arriving about noon. My first day suggestion would be to leave for the beach after an early lunch . don’t spend too much time travelling – save that for an early start on the next full day.
As you leave the ship, stop by the Post Office on Water St. to buy bus passes – least expensive is a card of 15 ( 3 Zone) tickets for $20. They can be shared – just tear it off and drop it in the coin box when boarding the bus – If you travel beyond 3 zones, you must use one more coupon – or you can purchase 15 (14 zone) tickets for $30. Don’t forget to pick up a bus schedule. Once you have the tickets in hand, you may want to check internet – the PO has one computer that is free for 10 minutes or the internet café is up a few steps on the way to the bus stop - $4 for 15 minutes or $7 for 30 minutes.
You can choose to go to Tobacco Bay – St. Catherine’s Beach on the minibus or to Clearwater Beach on the #6 bus. The Ocean Beaches are along the South Shore and take quite a while to get to…..We chose to go to Grotto Bay Resort on the # 1,3,10 or 11 bus. It takes about 15 – 20 minutes – the first stop after the airport. You can see the complex of 3- story orange and yellow buildings on your right as you cross over the long bridge. It’s a small and rather quiet hotel.
The beach here is small, but sandy and the water calm and clean – no eel grass or rocks and there is some snorkeling in the cove, rock outcroppings and a few fish hang out by a sunken barge just offshore. Lots of plastic-strapped lounge chairs about a dozen umbrellas are set up along the beach and more on three other levels. A dive shop offers scuba and snorkeling tours, sunfish,kayaks and a motorized paddle type boat for rental.
Since this is a hotel, you have all that you need – A pool with a swim-up bar, again with about a dozen umbrellas and lots of lounges. It is popular with families, so it can be noisy and splashy. The bar always has a few vacationers hanging out and the restaurant is a good spot for lunch on a covered terrace overlooking the water – always busy. Portions are large, food attractively plated and fried foods are very crisp.
Food runs the gamut of sandwiches, burgers, salads, wraps, Mozzerella sticks, tender, hot dogs – something for everyone at touristy prices. Staff is efficient and pleasant but bring along a credit card – cash is not accepted….Another attraction here are the caves….open from 9AM – 5PM…really worth a look – very large stalagmites and stalagtites. A re resident black cat lounges in the shade by the entrance and checks everyone out….The family wil like exploring – and the admission is free – you’ll save time and money rather than adding on the cave excursion that’s in the same neighborhood.
Once we’ve had our fill of sun and water, we shower off, change into dry clothing and walk ¼ mile to the right as you exit Grotto Bay – on our way to the famous Swizzle Inn…..on our list for every trip to Bermuda. We order a pitcher…….yes…..only a pitcher will do….of "Swizzles" and share an order of beer battered onion rings…Oh My!!!!!! I can just taste them now……..
By now it’s close to 6PM – We’re happy and ready to head back to the ship. Any bus that goes past Swizzle Inn will drop you in St. George’s….just make sure that you are on the correct side of the road and not heading to Hamilton…..remember….they drive on the "wrong" side…..Maybe a few shops are still open before you board the ship for dinner and an evening of fun.
Hope you enjoy your day as much as we do……Go to Swizzle Inn Review to read about the pub.