Mughals in Lahore

Lahore is visited mainly by overland backpackers and locals but is definitely worth a visit for its magnificent Mughal monuments, its atmospheric bazaars, its great restaurants, and so on.

Lahore is the capital of Pakistani Punjab and the second largest city of Pakistan after Karachi (capital of Pakistan).

If you liked Jama Masjid in Delhi, or the Mughal monuments of Agra (Taj Mahal, Imtad-ud-Daulin, etc.), here are the four monuments not to miss while in Lahore:

- Badshahi Mosque: the most famous mosque of Pakistan, in red stone and white marble.

- Lahore Fort: the buildings that you will see in Lahore Fort are all Mughal even though there were previous constructions in it (all destroyed).

- Wazir Khan Mosque: A nice mosque in the old city, quite hard to find if you are walking from Badshahi Mosque or Lahore Fort.

- Jehangir's Tomb: in Lahore suburbs, one of the finest examples of Mughal architecture.

Also, not to miss are:

- Minar-e-Pakistan: the tower of independence, built just after the Partition (do not forget that Lahore is next to the Indian border).

- The old city: its narrow streets, its bazaars are all worth a visit. A word of warning though: some parts of it are not safe (especially the 'red light district', the dancers/prostitutes area).

- The old city walls: a long walk to see all the old city gates.

Also friendly Lahorites will be part of your travel experience in Lahore.

You can also listen to qawwali music in sufi temples (just ask your hostel the timetables and if there are enough people, you can join a group to go there by auto-rickshaw). Undoubtedly much more crowded than in Peshawar, qawwali music sites are more or less legal in Lahore.

Quick Tips:

- Monsoon rains start in late July, early August, but Lahore is not as affected by monsoon as Indian cities. Lahore can be visited all year round, but if you expect sunny days, then it is best to go there before or after monsoon. (October to June).

- If you get fed up with local food, go to M. M. Alam Road in Gulberg. There are plenty of good western-style restaurants in the area (try Freddy Cafe) and you will meet rich Lahorites and expats eating out there.

- One of the cheapest and busiest hostels in Lahore is undoubtedly Regale Internet Inn, near Mall Road. It is where all the backpackers currently in Lahore meet and share dormitories and stories.

- Even if you do not spend the night at the Regale Internet Inn, the hostel managers can arrange qawwali music evenings for you (on Thursdays evenings).

Best Way To Get Around:

Lahore is a huge city. The main attractions are almost all in the old city and its surroundings and can be visited by foot (Badshahi Mosque, Lahore Fort, Wazir Khan Mosque, etc.). This is still the best option if you want to discover the old Lahore. Meetings locals in the streets is part of the fun and if you get lost, there will always be someone to help you.

However, to go to the old city from your hotel (most hostels are near Mall Road) or to reach other monuments (Jehangir's tomb for instance) from the old city, it is best to use an auto-rickshaw.

Auto-rickshaw fares are ridiculously cheap but almost always start at a flat rate of 50 rupees for foreigners (0,60 euro) for the first three kilometres. It is hard to negotiate the prices with drivers if you want to go a shorter distance. However, for longer distances (4 kilometres and more), prices are easily negotiable (especially if you ask a local to help you negotiate). For instance, I paid 100 rupees for 8 kilometres in 2005.

There are also local buses, but I never managed to understand their routes.

Just in front of the Red Mosque of Lahore (Badshahi Mosque), lies Lahore Fort, a magnificent Mughal fortification which has been partially renovated.

There is a double tariff for the visit of the fort. Foreigners have to pay 200 rupees (3 euros) and locals 10 rupees. Several guides will propose their services just outside the fort. There is also a sound and light show on Mondays, Thursdays, and Saturdays.

The origin of Lahore Fort is obscure. Archaeological surveys reveal that habitation existed there long before the advent of Muslims in Lahore. There is evidence that a mud fort existed in the 11th Century.

Destroyed and rebuilt several times between the 12th and 15th century, Lahore Fort was last rebuilt by the Mughal emperor Akbar in about 1566. The Mughal emperors extended and added many parts to the fort. For instance, Akbar's son Jehangir added some Jehangir’s Quadrangles in 1618 then his son Shah Jahan built several buildings, such as Shish Mahal, the Royal Baths, Moti Masjid, etc. Shah Jahan’s son Aurangzeb added the magnificent Alamgiri gate (the gate by which you enter the fort if you come from Badshahi Mosque) in 1674.

The Mughal period buildings are grouped in four large quadrangles which include 21 edifices. No buildings from the pre-Mughal period now exist. The fort is girdled round by formidable fortifications and strengthened with semi-circular bastions at regular intervals.

Lahore Fort was occupied by the British in 1846 and remained in their possession until 1927. Afterwards, Pakistani authorities have restored the fort as it was before the British invasion.

Wandering in the fort gardens is a real pleasure but your visit might be interrupted several times by young people wanting to shake hands with you and asking the same questions (where are you from? How much do you earn?). Some people will even try to take some pictures of you. It is better to visit the fort when you are up to socialising with locals.

The visit of Lahore Fort is an absolute must if you like Mughal architecture (if you liked Delhi and Agra, then you should not miss Lahore Fort).

Badshahi Mosque is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful mosques I have ever seen. It cannot be compared to Middle-East mosques and it is one of the most stunning examples of Mughal architecture with the Taj Mahal in Agra, India.

Lahore is worth the detour just for this mosque. Built in 1673 by the last famous Mughal Emperor, Aurangzeb, it is Lahore's main tourist attraction. It is the second largest mosque in Pakistan (after Islamabad's main mosque, Faisal Mosque).

Entrance is free but like in any mosque, you have to remove your shoes at the entrance and leave them in a cloakroom for a small fee (2 rupees).

Do not worry about burning your feet; when it is very hot, there are wet rugs on the floor so that you do not burn the soles of your feet.

The courtyard is huge and it is said that it can welcome up to 100.000 people at once. Walls are in red stone and the three cupolas in white marble. It was recently renovated.

In a small room above the entrance, you can visit a small museum where you can see relics supposedly of Prophet Muhammad and his daughter Fatima. These relics are numerous and their authenticity cannot be verified (capes, prayer mats, a text supposedly written by Muhammad himself – even the calligraphy looks more recent than a 7th Century written text – but there is always a crowd of ecstatic Muslims in front of it.)

Badshahi Mosque attracted the international media attention in 1991 when Lady Di visited it dressed with a miniskirt and insufficiently covered up. The Mosque Director offered her a copy of the Holy Quran which angered Pakistani mullahs. They then sued Lady Di (because she was indecently dressed) and the Director (because he had offered a Quran to a non-Muslim). The judge then ordered the mullahs to leave them alone and not to make him lose his time with such petty things.

If you intend to visit Delhi in India (or have already done so), this mosque will remind you of Jama Masjid (built by Aurangzeb's father, Shah Jahan). Definitely one of the highlights of your stay in Pakistan.

As soon as I had arrived at Wazir Khan mosque, after having searched for it for forty-five minutes, the sky opened its taps and water started pouring down: the first monsoon rain... Soon after, the courtyard was under several inches of water.

Wazir Khan mosque was built in 1634-35 under the reign of Shah Jahan (the one who built the Taj Mahal). The mosque was completed in about seven years.

The best way to find it is to go around the city walls and enter the old city through Delhi Gate. The entrance of the mosque is about 200 yards on your left in a narrow street.

Entrance is free but do not forget to remove your shoes like in any mosque! The entire mosque is built with small tile-like bricks with a sprinkling of red sand-stone (this material was universally used by the Mughals when stone was unusable or too costly). Even the grills are in terracotta. The outstanding architectural features are its octagonal four corner minarets 107 feet high decorated with mosaic tiles.

Around the mosque, there is a bazaar with 22 shops (the streets were flooded when I tried to visit it). This bazaar formed an integral part of plan of the mosque, which was the first ever provided in a mosque.

The mosque also hosts a madrasa, a Quranic school, next to the prayer rooms. I was able to have a peek at it and I could see children reciting the Quran while moving their chest in a forward and backward movement.

Also, you will probably encounter a crazy street musician who will ask you for a few rupees after playing a song with his flute. Beware: he might get angry if you do not give him anything.

Getting in or out of the mosque is a nightmare during the monsoon, especially just after heavy rains. Most of the narrow streets around the mosque are then flooded with more than 10 inches of water and you will get wet no matter what when you try to find a way to get in or out.

Definitely a funny experience during the monsoon!

To visit Jehangir’s tomb, you will need to take an auto-rickshaw from the Old City (100 rupees for the return drive). It is located in Shahdara, a poor suburb in Lahore North.

After having paid 200 rupees for the visit of Jehangir’s tomb, I was shown a picture on the 1000 rupees denomination note: Jehangir’s Tomb was featured prominently on it! Since I had trouble explaining to my driver where I wanted to go, I suggest you to show him the 1000 rupee note and the picture on it.

There are two parts to visit: The Akbar Caravanserai and Jehangir’s Tomb.

If you are lucky, you will see the sun illuminating the park surrounding the Akbar caravanserai, built by Shah Jahan at the same time as the tomb of his father Jehangir. It could accommodate 180 people and their animals. On the right, a door opens on the park in the middle of which stands a monument dedicated to the Emperor Jehangir.

The colors are almost identical to those of the Badshahi Mosque. The major Mughal monuments of Lahore are mostly in red stone and that suits them very well. At least, they are not likely to be quickly damaged by moisture, as it is the case with modern buildings in Pakistan and India.

Before entering inside the tomb, you have to remove your shoes. Power cuts are frequent and the interior might be dark (it was the case when I visited it), but you can nevertheless see the artwork inside: a white marble tomb with decorations in pietra dura (semi semi-precious stones) with floral designs. On the sarcophagus, you can read the 99 attributes of Allah in Arabic script.

In 2005, Jehangir’s tomb was being renovated but it was still possible to take good pictures.

Probably the finest example of Mughal architecture after the Taj Mahal. Definitely worth the visit!