Surfing the North Kohala Coast

Kohala is the northern most region on the western coast of the Big Island. There is a North Kohala and South Kohala district. North Kohala includes the artists' community of Hawi (pronounced "ha'vee" and the beautiful lookout of the Pololu Valley.

Formerly old sugar cane land, much of North Kohala is now ranch land with herds of cattle pretty much enjoying the ability to roam on thousands of acres of lush, green pasture. The view from the hillside is beautiful, and only accessible via ATV or horseback. There are several activities operators in the area with whom you can book a group or private tour.

There are a few parks and beaches in this region of the island, but use caution when swimming in areas that do not have lifeguards. The surf can be especially rough in the afternoon, as the trade winds come over the mountain range and the sun heats up the air above the dark brown lava fields.

If you are interested in Hawaiian history, there are some areas and sights that will quench your thirst for knowledge. King Kamehameha was born in this region of the Hawaiian Islands and Kohala is proud of their place in the history of Hawaii.

Kohala provides one of the most abrupt changes in geography and climate on an island that boasts 11 of the 13 climate zones. It is here that you have an immediate transition from lush green rain forests to arid high desert with cactus and barren dirt pastures.

Quick Tips:

If you really want to enjoy and explore this region of the Big Island, you will want to stay here. There are a lot of resorts in Waikoloa as well as just north of there along the Kohala coast. The availability of timeshares is rather limited, as most of the resorts are of the hotel variety, charging a premium of - per night!

If you are interested in timeshare accommodations, look into Shell Vacation Club's Paniolo Greens or Hilton Vacation Club's resort at Waikoloa. Both provide a good location for a home based to explore Kohala and the surrounding areas, and yet are relatively close enough to spend a day or two down in Kailua-Kona (about an hour away).

If you want to do a lot in the way of activities and tours, you may want to consider taking at timeshare presentation with Shell Vacation Clubs. As of this writing they are offering guests cash, plus a discount card good for an unlimited number of activities discounts. During our two weeks, we saved over on the activities we did using the card. If you go this route, you will need to schedule your timeshare tour and presentation on the first day so that you can maximize your utilization and benefit of the card. It is especially valuable if you are planning an extended vacation of more than a week.

My preference to timeshare accommodations is not just driven by the fact that we own timeshares, but also the desire to keep dining expenses to a minimum. With most timeshare units, you will have the ability to prepare meals in your condo. We ate almost all of our breakfasts in our unit and cooked dinner at "home" for about half of our evenings.

This is important as dining out can be very expensive. A breakfast at a sit-down type cafe or diner will run you - for two. Dinner out is easily - (for two) depending on your choices and whether or not you have alcohol. Even a simple chicken type meal with iced tea and no salad will run you for two.

Be prepared, however...groceries are expensive too! A gallon of milk was and 18 large eggs was . Surprisingly, we were able to buy sirloin beef steaks for about the same price as here in Iowa (/lb).

Best Way To Get Around:

RENT A CAR! There is little more that I can say. The Big Island is BIG and to be able to access all that there is there, you will need a car. Your biggest decision is "What type of car do you need?"

Many people I've talked to will only consider a jeep or other 4WD type vehicle. If you are planning to rough it and want to access areas where tourist shouldn't be in the first place, I'd say yes a 4WD is probably your best bet. With that being said, most of the rental companies have an exclusion prohibiting you from taking their vehicles off paved roads or in areas known to be dangerous for less than experienced drivers. That should be enough to tell most people that they shouldn't be doing what it is people are inclined to do with 4WD vehicles designed for the areas you're not supposed to be driving on. Make sense?

The other reason we never rent a jeep is that they rarely have enough space for all the luggage and gear we seem to travel to Hawaii with. Even the sexy convertibles are limited in luggage space, although there are plenty of the Sebrings, PT Cruisers and Mustang convertibles if that is the way you want to enjoy Hawaii and its sunshine.

For us, we go with a standard midsize car and are often fortunate to get a free upgrade to a slightly larger fullsize.

If you are interested in exploring the area of the Big Island that claims the birthplace of King Kamehameha, the most exciting way is by ATV. I had my own concerns about my abilities to drive the all-terrain vehicle through the open ranch land that would include hills and valleys on the North Kohala coast. Once I got comfortable with driving and controlling the "bike," I was able to relax and enjoy the sights from remote areas that many never have the opportunity to experience.

Upon arrival and check-in, all guests complete a thorough disclosure and release document. They will ask for your height and weight when you make your reservation by telephone, but the follow-up on other medical conditions at check-in will help to assure your safety for a pleasant tour. I was very pleased and impressed with how thorough they were in this part of the process especially given that I am asthmatic and suffer a number of physical ailments including gimpy knees.

After everyone is checked in, they provide personalized assistance to get you the safety gear necessary including helmet, goggles, and gloves. With gear provided, each person is taken to their assigned vehicle, which as been determined by the guide based on the individual needs within the group. With a ten minute safety review provided and an orientation of the ATV’s operation, the guides take everyone through a small practice course to make sure everyone is capable and comfortable driving their ATV. With two laps of the practice course successfully completed, we were ready to head out on our 15 mile waterfalls tour!

The early part of the tour traversed a large macadamia nut tree grove, with a lot of nuts on the ground ready for harvest. From there we headed up into the hills through a very large cattle range. At several points through the tour, there were cows laying on the trail. They moved rather quickly, however, as our group of ten approached. At the top of the ridge, we stopped for a beautiful view overlooking the entire North Kohala Coast including the villages of Hawi and Kapa’au.

This area used to be a sugar cane plantation until the 1980s. Today investors hold on to this land in hopes of developing a resort community. According to our guide Kelly, the local communities have no interest in further development and expansion of tourism in their quaint historical area and have successfully fought to prevent the resort expansion to the North Kohala coastal region.

From there, we headed back into the rain forest and our waterfalls destination. The trail became increasingly rough, pitted with rocks and many water puddles. While the terrain required added caution while driving the ATV’s, everyone was able to make their way safely to the flat area where we would park. From here we had a bit of a hike, close to 50 yards on a narrow but well prepared steep downward path. There were a lot of steps, some made naturally from tree roots and rocks, others cut into the path using ropes to help with footing and balance.

I was proud that in spite of my bad knees, I was able to make the trip down because to come that far and not get to see or experience this private swimming area at the base of the 100 foot water falls, would have been truly a shame! Here we paused for refreshments as many did take the opportunity to swim in the 60 something degree fresh water pool. David went in and enjoyed the refreshing swim and photo op.

The climb back to the top was quite an adventure. As concerned as I was about making the hike back to our ATVs, it really wasn’t too bad. I had to stop twice on the way to the top, to catch my breath but at no time did I fear an inability to make it. I would encourage anyone concerned about making the trip to not fret too much. Be sure to discuss any physical limitations you may have with your tour guide. They will be best prepared to help you evaluate your participation and physical capabilities.

We chose ATV Outfitters largely because of their participation with the Hawaii Savers discount program. With the Hawaii Savers’ card, guests will receive a 20% discount on all tours. From time to time, you can also find ATV Outfitters’ tours available from Hawaii Savers. Their website (www.atvoutfittershawaii.com) has detailed information on their three tours and pricing. We did the 15 mile waterfalls tour which was $169 per person. The total time spent at the ATV Outfitters ranch was three hours, with the tour itself lasting about two and one-half hours.

ATV Outfitters – 15 Mile Waterfalls Tour
Hwy 270
Kapa’au, Hawaii
(808) 889-6000
www.atvoutfittershawaii.com

The Kohala Coast of the Big Island is rich with wonderful beaches. Thanks to the pubic access laws in Hawaii, tourists have access to some of the most exclusive and remote beaches along the western shore, north of the more well known beaches of Kona. Due to the rough ocean waves, many of the beaches found along this coastal area are great for laying out or reading a book and maybe a bit hazardous for open water snorkeling. We depend on the book “Snorkel Hawaii – The Big Island” for great inside information on access to some of the better snorkel beaches of the Kohala Coast.

The beach at Wai’alea Bay is known as “the 69 beach” is located off Hwy 19, near the 69 mile marker, hence the name. As you turn towards the ocean, you will come upon the parking lot which also has clean bathrooms complete with a freshwater shower. This is a very comfortable beach area with shady areas for picnicking as well as beautiful white sands for those who want to get some rays. During our visit, there seemed to be mostly locals here, including a couple of guys who were diving off the lava rocks when the surf came in.

There is quite a bit of lava here so snorkeling should only be attempted by those with experience. The water was a bit too rough for me so I laid out watching David swimming with the fish. He said the coral and lava provided wonderful places for fish of all sizes to feed. At one point, he had to stop to clear his mask. When he put his face back into the water, he found himself face to face, within a foot or two, of a large green sea turtle.

Another great beach for snorkeling and lounging is the Kauna’oa Beach at the Mauna Kea Resort. This is one that you will need to stop at the gate and request a public access parking pass from the guard. They will direct you to the parking area, which you can expect to be a bit of a hike down to the beach area. The Mauna Kea Resort has done an outstanding job in creating a welcoming area for visitors who are not staying on property. They have a very nice facility for guests, with bathrooms and freshwater showers.

The walk is approximately 15 minutes downhill to the beach. When you reach the crescent shaped shoreline, you will find plenty of space to get comfortable. This is one of the most beautiful beaches in Hawaii and has been recognized as such by the Travel Channel in their annual review of beaches around the world.

The snorkeling is best to the left or right coastline of the bay area. The coral is spectacular and it was easy to swim around the fish below. On the right end of the bay has a large light that the resort turns on to attract manta rays feeding on plankton. Unfortunately, we were unable to make an evening trip for the manta rays, but we were told by others it is a spectacular sight.

If you do not own your own snorkel gear, you can rent it for your vacation for around $10 per week. If your vacation includes multiple islands, you can rent on one island and return on another. Try Snorkel Bob’s or Boss Frog’s for the best deals on rental gear.

If you are interested in seeing one of the loveliest black beaches in Hawaii, take time to drive out to the end of Hwy 270 to the overlook point on the far northern tip of the Big Island. From the resort area of Waikoloa, plan on the drive taking about 90 minutes. You will travel through several quaint towns including the eclectic Hawi and Kapa’au which is the home of the original statue of King Kamehameha.

At the point lookout over Pololu Valley, you will be welcomed by several horses in the fenced in area just before the overlook parking area. As visitors came up to the fence, the horses approached to check everyone out. They were especially friendly, responding favorably to pets and scratches behind their ears.

At the parking area, there are several places that provide for outstanding photos. Unfortunately, the earthquake of October 2006 took out the main foot path down to the valley floor and beach area and the secondary trail was marked as dangerous and “NO TRESPASSING” due to damage incurred from the earthquake. With that being said, the view is spectacular and still worth the effort to make the trip to this remote area of the Big Island.

After your trip to the Pololu Valley Lookout, consider a stop at the Keokea Beach Park which offers a nice tidal pool for swimming or a spectacular viewing area to watch the locals surfing the high waves. Be careful, however, if you get into the water on the side where the surf pounds the lava rocks. The safer area may be found to the right of the elevated picnic area.

Here you will find limited facilities including fresh water showers and porta-potties, along with several picnic tables and an elevated viewing area that provides a nice perspective of the entire bay. This beach park seemed to be a popular place for locals, as we appeared to be the only tourists there during our midweek visit.

While Hilo’s Mauna Loa Macadamia Nut Company is arguably the most famous Big Island mac nut production company, we were pleased to find the Hamakua Macadamia Nut Company literally in our neighborhood while vacationing in Waikoloa on the North Kohala Coast.

Hamakua offers a self-guided tour although we were greeted by a lovely young lady who walked us through the tour explaining the steps throughout the process. During our visit, they were packaging whole nuts and preparing caramelized popcorn. It was very interesting to learn how much goes into harvesting, drying, roasting, flavoring and packaging macadamia nuts. Who would have thought that there needed to be so many flavors of nuts? You can buy six different varieties including island onion, hula jalapeno, honey mustard, chili peppah, hot mustard wasabi as well as lightly salted macadamia nuts. For me, I just love the natural lightly salted or caramelized nuts.

In addition to packaged nuts, visitors can also purchase chocolate covered mac nuts and several flavors of popcorn. After viewing of the production area, there is a huge showroom and sampling area. Unlike the chintzy samples provided at Mauna Loa, here you can pretty much sample any one of the many products sold in their retail store. We loved the mac toffee caramel popcorn and purchased a couple of small bags (approximately $5 for a 5.5 oz. package). Have you ever tried macadamia nut brittle? It is simply heavenly!

We felt that overall, the chocolate used for the Hamakua Macadamia Nut Company’s products was much richer and had better flavor. At $11.99 per pound, you will be paying for their premium flavor.

Hamakua Macadamia Nut Company also roasts pure Kona coffee on the premises if you are interested in making a Kona coffee purchase without driving the hour up to the Kona coffee region south of Kailua-Kona.

We would suggest a trip here as part of a day trip up to Hawi or the Pololu Valley Lookout. They are open 8am – 5pm, seven days a week!

We arrived a little after 4pm, too early for dinner so it was lunch menu options for us. That actually worked out well. We started with calamari ($10) which was outstanding! David had the french dip ($10) and I had the 6 oz angus burger ($9). David said his sandwich was outstanding. While my burger was also very good, there were some seasonings that didn't quite agree with me. I had heartburn well into the night. But I must again say the taste was delicious! Both sandwiches were served with a choice of fries or one of several other options including potato salad and chips.

We ended our meal splitting a wonderful piece of homemade banana cream pie ($6) that was heavenly. We both had iced tea to drink which was a mango flavored tea, which was also very good. The total meal came to $39 less our $25 www.restaurant.com dining gift certificate. With tip, we spent a total of just $24 for our meal. (For more information on dining discount certificates, check out www.restaurant.com.)

Service was friendly and very attentive. Our glasses were never less than half-full. We would recommend this nice find off the beaten path and may go there again during this trip!

About the restaurant itself...they have been open just three or four months. They are located less than a block from the Hwy 270/Hwy 250 intersection on Hwy 250. It is very airy with all of the windows opened with a wonderful cross breeze. We asked to be seated in the front by the window with the view of a huge banyan tree across the street.

They serve dinner from 5:30pm until 9pm. After that, they have live music in the Tiki Lounge (blues were on the schedule the evening we were there)...during which they do serve pizza and pupus along with their full service bar.

While at Luke’s Place, be sure to browse the beautiful art work throughout the restaurant and in the adjacent gallery.