Lisbon- Monumental Belem

Belém, is a parish of Lisbon, located 6km west of the present city centre and 2km west of the 25th of April Bridge. I’m told its name is derived from the Portuguese for Bethlehem. It is Lisbon's most monumental and historical area and the best place to start sightseeing.

It was from here that many of the great Portuguese explorers embarked on their voyages of discovery: Prince Henry the Navigator and the first overseas expedition to conquer Ceuta in Morocco, Bartholomew Dias to round the Cape of Good Hope, the first voyages of Ferdinand Magellan, and Vasco da Gama to discover the sea route to India. Christopher Columbus stopped here on his way back to Europe after discovering America.

During this time Lisbon flourished with riches pouring into Portugal. This period saw the construction of great monuments like the Belem Tower and the Jeronimos Monastery. Today these monuments and their surrounding museums are essential viewing for any visitor.

Belem is also home to the 17th-18th century Belem Palace, former royal residence and now occupied by the President of Portugal, and the Ajuda Palace, begun in 1802 but never completed.

Belém's most famous feature is its tower, Torre de Belem, whose image is much used by Lisbon’s's tourist board. The tower was built 500 years ago as a fortified lighthouse to guard the entrance to the port at Belém. It stood on a little island in the Tagus River.

Belém's other major historical building is the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos (Jerónimos Monastery). The building of the monastery, was begun in 1502 on the instructions of Manuel 1 and took 50 years to complete. It was built as a monument to Vasco da Gama’s successful voyage to India and was funded by a tax on eastern spices. The monastery contains the tomb of Vasco da Gama. Located in the wings of the monastery are the National Archaeological Museum and the Maritime Museum.

Belém's most notable modern feature is the Monument to the Discoveries. This was erected in 1960 to commemorate the 600th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator. The monument is carved into the shape of the prow of a ship in which stand statues of various explorers, as well as a statue of Henry himself. Adjacent to the monument is a square with a very interesting map showing the routes of various Portuguese explorers.

Quick Tips:

Spend a whole day in Belem but avoid Mondays because many places are closed. It is from here that Vasco da Gama sailed to India and here he was welcomed home by Dom Manuel. The monastery that was build there - Mosteiro dos Jeronimos- was built to honour the vow Dom Manuel made for the safe return of Vasco da Gama.

Visit the various museums in the area, see the Torre de Belem and the Monument of the Discoveries but don’t neglect the adjacent town. Several museums are free on Sunday from 10am to 2pm.

Have a good meal at one of the many restaurants. In particular try Café Pasteis de Belem at Rua de Belem 84-95. This is the only place to get the original "Pasteis de Belem" which are a small cream pastry. It opened in 1837 and is still going strong today. The restaurant/café itself is huge, with the famous "azulejo" tiles that cover the walls. If you are in a hurry you can always buy the pastries in a small box and eat them outside (the garden right in front has some nice benches in the shade).

In the heart of Belém is the Praça do Império: gardens centred upon a large fountain. To the west of the gardens lies the Centro Cultural de Belem. It is now an arts complex, containing Belém's Design Museum.

Take the tram No.15 back to the city and enjoy thinking of all your experiences of Belem.

Best Way To Get Around:

You can easily walk between all the major buildings and structures in Belem and there are some lovely parks and gardens to enjoy while you are doing so. In summer there is a tourism kiosk set up near the monastery to help with directions and information.

The most interesting way to reach Belem is by tram No 15 from Praca do Commercio in the downtown area. Alternatively, take bus 14 from Rossio or the train from Cais do Sodre.

The Lisbon Cityline Bus is one of the most convenient ways to discover Lisbon. It enables you to get a good overview of the city while visiting some of the major sightseeing attractions including Jeronimos Monastery, Tower of Belem, and the Monument of the Discoveries.

The bus provides a guided commentary along the route, and you can hop on and off as many times as you like throughout the day, at any of the 13 designated stops. The stops are:

· Marques de Pombal - Terminal and panorama of Marquis of Pombal monument, built in memory to this statesman who ordered the rebuilding of Lisbon after the earthquake of 1755.
· Avenida da Liberdade - The main avenue of the city links Pombal Square with the center. Along this avenue you can find many brand shops, hotels, etc.
· Restauradores - The obelisk in the middle of the square commemorates the independence of Portugal in 1640, after 60 years of Spanish domination.
· Rossio - Also called Pedro IV's Square, it is the heart of the city. All around the square there are shops, famous cafés, and also the National Theatre.
· Terreiro do Paco/Praca do Comercio - Considered to be one of the most beautiful squares of Lisbon. It was here that the Royal Palace was located at the time of King Manuel (16th C.)
· Alcantara / Docas - Principal pier of Lisbon, famous for its night activities such as bars, restaurants, discos, pubs, etc.
· National Museum of Coaches - One of the most visited museums in Portugal. This museum, installed in the former Royal Riding School, occupies the Eastern wing of Belem Palace.
· Jeronimos Monastery - King Manuel, wished to use the building as a monument to the great discoveries during the 15th and 16th centuries.
· Centro Cultural de Belem - This building, was inaugurated in 1992 as a Cultural Center. It's a good example of contemporary Portuguese architecture.
· Tower of Belem - The master piece of "Manueline" style. Built between 1515 and 1521 at the entrance of the harbor it marks the point of departure of many maritime expeditions.
· Monument of the Discoveries - Designed to commemorate the age of discoveries, the central figure is Prince Henry the Navigator who was the great supporter of the famous explorers.
· Basilica da Estrela - A church from the 18th century where one can find paintings of Batoni and Pedro Alexandrino
· El Corte Ingles - One of the biggest and more complete shopping centers in Lisbon area.
· Eduardo VII Park - Beautiful panorama of Eduardo VII gardens, Marques de Pombal monument, Avenida da Liberdade, downtown, Tagus River and south.

This tour must be booked at least 24 hours in advance of your travel date. The tour is operated in English, French, German, and Portuguese. The ticket is valid for 1 calendar day.

My engineering background may be showing but I found the 25 de Abril suspension Bridge (25th of April Bridge) to be a very impressive structure. It connects the city of Lisbon, to the municipality of Almada on the left bank of the Tagus River. It was opened in 1966 and a train deck was added in 1999. Soon after the so-called Carnation Revolution in 1974, the bridge was renamed the 25 de Abril Bridge, the day the revolution had occurred. It is a commanding presence from Belem and many other areas of the city.

Upon completion, the bridge had the longest suspended span and the longest main span in Continental Europe, the world's longest continuous truss, and the world's deepest bridge foundation. It was the fifth largest suspension bridge in the world, the largest outside the USA. Today it has been surpassed by many other bridges in various places around the world but it is now undoubtedly one of the world’s busiest structures.

The 25 de Abril Bridge is often compared to the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco and not just because it was built by the same company. The American Society of Civil Engineers says that "Like its sister bridge, the Golden Gate in San Francisco, the Tagus River Bridge is located in an area with a long history of earthquakes" and seismic data had to be taken into account in its construction. Another sister bridge is the Forth Road Bridge in Edinburgh,

Since 1999, the lower deck has carried two railroad tracks. To accommodate this, the bridge underwent extensive structural reinforcements, including a second set of main cables, placed above the original set, and the main towers were increased in height. The rail line had been part of the initial design, but was eliminated for economy, and the initial structure had been lightened. The original builder, the American Bridge Company, was called again for the job, to carry out the first ever aerial spinning of additional main cables on a loaded, fully operational suspension bridge.

The bridge was projected to have paid all debt in 20 years, and to become toll-free (or reduced toll) after that period. However, the Government has kept charging tolls well beyond the 20 year period. Today the toll applies northbound only, with the toll plaza situated on the south bank of the Tagus River. The toll is currently set at € 1.25 for passenger cars, northbound (into Lisbon).

You can get a great view of the bridge, as well as the rest of the Lisbon area from the base of the Christ (Cristo Rei) monument across the river (free), and an even better view of the area from the top of the monument (5 euros).

Built in 1515 as a fortress to guard the entrance to Lisbon's harbor, the Belem Tower was the starting point for many of the Voyages of Discovery, and for the sailors it was the last sight of their homeland. It must have been a special place for them.

The building still has an important place in Portuguese culture. It is a monument to Portugal's Age of Discovery, is often used as a symbol of the country, and has been listed as a World Heritage monument by UNESCO. The official text says: Belem Tower was declared a World Heritage monument because: "It is a reminder of the great maritime discoveries that laid the foundations of the modern world."

Built in the Manueline style, it incorporates many stonework motifs of the Discoveries, sculptures depicting historical figures such as St. Vincent and an exotic rhinoceros that inspired Dürer's drawing of the beast.

The architect, Francisco de Arruda, had previously worked on Portuguese fortifications in Morocco, so there are also Moorish-style watchtowers and other Moorish influences. Facing the river are arcaded windows, delicate Venetian-style loggias, and a statue of Our Lady of Safe Homecoming, a symbol of protection for sailors on their voyages.

Originally, the Tower stood on a little island on the right side of the Tagus River, surrounded by water. Today, with the progressive southward creeping of the shore over the years, it is now practically moored to the bank itself.

The tower itself, 35 metres high, has four storeys and a terrace that offers wonderful views of the surrounding landscape. The powder magazine is at water level. The next storeys are reached via a narrow spiral staircase. The first storey was the commander's room. The second storey has covered balconies on each side. Of the tower floors, the most interesting is the chapel of the fourth floor, with a magnificent Manueline rib vault decorated with the artillery sphere and the cross of the military Order of Christ, who participated in many Portuguese conquests. The oratory is on the top floor.

As centuries passed, new functions were given to the tower. It was a customs control point, a telegraph station and even a lighthouse. It also served as a political prison, its storerooms transformed into dungeons, since the time when Philip II of Spain became king of Portugal (1580) and during periods of political unrest.

The tower opens 10am-5pm (Oct.-April), 10am-6.30pm (May-Sept.), but is closed Mondays.

Across from Jerronimos Monastery, reached via an underpass from its gardens, is the Discoveries Monument, built on the north bank of the Tagus River in 1960 to commemorate the 500th anniversary of the death of Prince Henry the Navigator. This is a modern structure contrasting nicely with the monastery and the Belem Tower.

It represents a three-sailed ship ready to depart, with sculptures of important historical figures. There is King Manuel I carrying an armillary sphere, poet Camões holding verses from The Lusiads, Vasco da Gama, Magellan, Cabral, and several other notable Portuguese explorers, crusaders, monks, cartographers, and cosmographers. All are following Prince Henry the Navigator at the prow. The only female is Queen Felipa of Lancaster, mother of Henry the Navigator, the driving force behind the great discoveries.

Inside is an exhibition space with temporary exhibits, an interesting film about the city of Lisbon, and an elevator that takes visitors to the top for some bird's-eye views of Belem and its monuments. This gets very crowded at times and there can be a long wait. There is an admission charge to the viewpoint.

The pavement in front of the monument is decorated with a mosaic that was given to Portugal by the South African government in 1960. There is a compass with the map of the world charting the routes taken by the Portuguese explorers. I found this very interesting and a great reminder of long forgotten history lessons.

The monument is particularly appealing to photographers because of the opportunities to get dramatic pictures with the river and suspension bridge in the background. The monument looks particularly dramatic in the light of the late afternoon sun.

The Discoveries Monument opens from 10am to 6pm daily but is closed Mondays.

The Jeronimos Monastery is to me by far the most impressive symbol of Portugal's power and wealth during the Age of Discovery. King Manuel I started it in 1502 on the site of a hermitage founded by Prince Henry the Navigator, where Vasco da Gama and his crew spent their last night in Portugal in prayer before leaving for India. It was built to commemorate Vasco Da Gama's voyage and to give thanks to the Virgin Mary for its success.

Vasco da Gama's tomb was placed inside by the entrance, as was the tomb of poet Luis de Camões, author of the epic The Lusiads in which he glorifies the triumphs of Da Gama and his compatriots. Other great figures in Portuguese history are also entombed here, like King Manuel and King Sebastião, and poets Fernando Pessoa and Alexandre Herculano.

This 16th-century monastery is one of the few surviving examples of Manueline-style architecture, named after Manuel I. This style of architecture, just seen in Portugal, is an ornate blend of late Gothic and Renaissance, with signs of seafaring, nature and the monarchy (rope, flora, fauna and coats of arms) sculpted into the columns.

The monastery once housed monks of the Order of Saint Jerome, whose prayers were intended to safeguard the seafaring Portuguese on their expeditions. The building is now listed (along with the Torre de Belém) as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is a spectacular structure with high arches, impressive columns, and ornate spires.

Begin by observing the south-facing facade, whose main feature of interest is the portal, the work of Joao de Castilho, surmounted by a tympanum of carved stone, including low reliefs showing scenes from the life of St. Jerome and the royal coat of arms. In the centre is a statue of Prince Henry the Navigator wielding a sword and, at the upper level, a statue of Our Lady of Belem, covered by a finely carved canopy.

Now enter the church and see the two tombs of Vasco da Gama and the poet Luis de Camoes near the door. Beyond lies the spacious and beautiful hall church, designed by the architect Joao de Castilho, with its spectacular network vaulting that has no arches and is supported on finely carved columns.

The cloisters are magnificent, each column differently carved with coils of rope, sea monsters, coral, and other sea motifs evocative of that time of world exploration at sea. The central courtyard is a magically peaceful place except on the busiest of days.

The monastery opens 10am to 5pm daily except Mondays. Entry to the church is free while there is a charge for the cloisters.