Bruges for families

Bruges is an almost perfectly preserved mideival town located an hour west of Brussels. Popular with tourists, it nevertheless has the feel of a town where people actually live and work - it feels real. Bruges offers a wonderful mix of history, charm and activities that family members of all ages will enjoy.

Soak up Bruge's cobblestone charm by strolling its picturesque streets, ducking into churches, shops and historical landmarks as you go. Rent bikes and ride both through town and into the surrounding countryside. Sample handmade chocolates at shops sprinkled throughout the town. Pass on a standard hotel and stay in a guesthouse or bed and breakfast located in a 16th century row house - live the history. When traveling with children, it's always good to build in unstructured non-touring time and Bruges has several lovely parks featuring swans, lakes, ducks and windmills perfect for that necessary down time.

Our kids (14,12 and almost 8)loved our three days in Bruges as much as we did.

Quick Tips:

There are two main squares in the town center, Markt and Burg, located very near one another. Stop at the Tourist Information Office on the Burg and pick up two publications. The first is a general town brochure available in several languages, which describes all of the sights, lists businesses useful for the tourist (ie. bike rental shops), and gives detailed suggestions for several walking tours of the town. The second is a biking tour map, which lists five bike tours of varying lengths and difficulty that can be done in and around Bruges.

Best Way To Get Around:

Belgium has a terrific train system and Bruges is easily reached by train from many locations. The town itself is small and walking distances didn't challenge any of us, our youngest being eight. Bruges is the kind of place where discoveries may be made around any corner, and walking gives the greatest flexibility to do this. We took a taxi to our guesthouse from the train station and the rest of the time we walked or biked. Bruges' streets are narrow and pedestrian-filled - not well-suited for automobile traffic.

The Dieltiens guest house is a charming 16th century row house on a narrow cobblestone street within steps of the canal and an easy walk to the two central squares, Markt & Burg, as well as other town sites.

We stayed in the two floor apartment, which has a double futon-type bed in the first floor living area, two twins upstairs and an irresistible loft bed tucked in to the 500-year old rafters - our two younger girls loved it! Recently renovated and sparkling clean, the apartment has a private bathroom with shower, lav and toilet. Also, a better than adequate kitchenette with refrigerator, microwave, cooktop, cabinets and sink, where you could fix a meal if desired. There was a smaller room on the first floor, which we didn''t see. Hosts Annemie & Koen Dieltiens also operate a bed and breakfast a short block away. Our apartment cost BEF 1,500/$70 per night. Visit , Dieltiens Guest House.

Restaurant 't Begijntje calls itself "the smallest restaurant in Bruges," and it may well be. Tucked into a corner of a large (for Bruges) three-story building across from the Begijnhof, the restaurant offers probably no more than seven tables with an intimate 16th century ambiance.

One evening, my husband and I left the children in our Bruges apartment and strolled the picturesque streets of this beautiful and romantic town, eventually seeking a place for dinner. We wandered into 't Begijntje rather late to find only one table occupied. The waiter/host welcomed us in and sat us near a window overlooking a small square. The other couple soon left and we had the restaurant to ourselves.

In these circumstances in many restaurants, service may be rushed and food sub-par, since the staff likely wants to close up and get home. Instead, we were treated to a wonderful freshly cooked meal featuring regional dishes, served with attentiveness, but no haste. Our dinner at 't Begijntje was probably the most memorable and enjoyable of our three week trip through several European countries.

When we finished our meal, still the only customers in the restaurant, the chef came out to the dining room, the waiter introduced her to us and we offered our compliments.

Our experience occurred on a Tuesday night in June. Possibly on other nights or later in the summer, reservations would be recommended.

Biking in and around Bruges is a treat that was much loved by all of us. Pick up the biking brochure (BEF50/$1) from the travel information office on the Burg, which gives 5 bike routes of varying lengths and difficulty. There are several bike rental places around town. De Ketting is one of the farthest out and the least expensive (when you need to rent five, it makes a difference). However, Bruges is a small, easily walkable town and the walk was about 15 minutes from the town center. They had nice bikes available in sizes for all of us, with easily operable locks and laid-back terms. The shop closed at 6 pm, but we were told just to lock the bikes outside the shop if we returned later. Also, no deposit.

We biked both around town and out a popular 30-40 minute route canalside to Damme, another quaint mideival town, not nearly as touristed as Bruges. Biking is daily transportation in Bruges (and in much of Europe) as opposed to recreation or exercise as here in the U.S. This means the town and countryside are set up for biking with easily accessible and navigable bike lanes and paths. Also, and more importantly, local drivers are used to bikes - they will grant you the right-of-way. (In your turn, you must grant rights-of-way to pedestrians).

Biking in Bruges and the Belgian countryside was voted a favorite by all of us, ranging in age from 7 to 51. Fresh air, exercise, idyllic scenery, canals and windmills - who could ask for more?

The actual information imparted during the Straffe Hendrick Brewery Tour was the least interesting part of the experience, particularly for the children (ages 14, 12 and 8). However, there are three good reasons to take the tour. The first is the opportunity to explore the building itself. The brewery has been in operation since 1856, and although processes have been modernized, brewing is still housed in this very old and very cool building. Be warned: this is not your American style tour. With precarious footing in some areas, staircases narrow and steep enough that you must descend them backwards, low ceilings and other potential hazards, you would never be allowed to see this sight in our safety-conscious and litigious country. Just watch your feet and follow directions. If you do so, you will be rewarded, among other things, with a beautiful panoramic roof-top view of the town slightly past the middle of the tour.

The second reason to take the tour is to listen to the personable guide switch back and forth between three or four languages. Our guide was fluent in five languages and working on a sixth. (As she said, "You have to. If you know only Flemish, you can travel only to northern Belgium or Holland!")

The third reason is the tall glass of cold Straffe Hendrik beer you get to enjoy at the end of the tour. (Kids get coke.) It's one of the many delicious brews available in this country and well-worth a try.

The brewery is open from 10 am to 5 pm April through September and from 11 am to 3 pm October through March. Tours run on the hour, last about 45-minutes and cost BEF140/$3 per person, including the beverage.

One of seemingly hundreds of narrow, ancient, spiral tower staircases we climbed during our three weeks in Europe, this one (like most of them) was worth the effort. The 366 steps were enough to feel like you worked, but not a problem for any of our reasonably fit family ranging in age from 7 to 51.

The 360 degree views of the town and surrounding countryside were gorgeous and a great photo-op. We happened to be up there when the clock struck 3 pm and we were bombarded (I mean serenaded) by a cacophony of 47 ancient bells ringing out their songs and the hour all around our heads. Our ears are still ringing, but we'd do it again if we could!

Open 9:30 am to 5 pm every day during the summer. Ticket costs range from BEF 50 to BEF 100 ($1.10 to $2.20); family ticket available for BEF 200 ($4.40).

Europe is full of beautiful churches, the most visted in Bruges probably being the Church of Our Lady with its Michaelangelo sculpture, Madonna and Child.

To our eyes, one of the most beautiful churches in Bruges is one tourists don't hear much about. One night after dinner, our family decided to take a walk. We set out from our lodgings, wandering aimlessly away from the town center. Soon, we came upon a church, whose exterior was only as nice as many village churches throughout Europe. Classical music spilled from the open doorway and pulled us in for a closer look.

The interior of the church is stunning. Built in the mid-17th century and beautifully kept, St. Walburgha's is a wonderful example of baroque artistry. On the high alter, framed in black and gold and supported by white columns, is a large arched painting of Christ's ascension. The marble communion bench is intricately carved and the wooden pulpit exquisite.

Members of this beautiful church open it to the public on many summer evenings and play (taped) classical and religious music as accompaniment. The evening we visited, an older gentleman graciously welcomed us and answered questions from guests.

We learned from our experience the value of taking time while traveling to chart a new path. Many of the best travel experiences are the ones you find yourselves. By discovering St. Walburgha's, we left feeling like just a little piece of this church belongs to us.