Of the two sets of buildings at Fatehpur Sikri, the religious one – which contains the Dargah of Salim Chishti, the Jamaat Khana and the Jama Masjid – is the one we first visited. We arrived shortly after noon on a blisteringly hot summer day. Having shaken off the guides, flower-sellers, souvenir-sellers, and generally limpet-like local touts, we climbed up the steep stone steps to the towering gate known as the Buland Darwaaza.
The Buland Darwaaza is an impressive edifice in red and gold sandstone, inlaid with inscriptions from the Quran. In front of it, in two neat rows, sit people selling religious keepsakes, roses, postcards, and cheap jewellery. On the right, sitting in one of...Read More