Kita no sora- Hokkaido in Summer

I declare myself officially addicted to Japan. No, I am not receiving any commissions for promoting Japan, I simply find Japan fascinating. Hana (flowers) is the theme of our trip. We have thus far avoided travelling to Japan during peak tourist season as airfares and accommodations are usually 30% higher, not to mention jostling with crowds of people at key attractions. However, summer is the best time to view fields of lavender and sunflower and this, unfortunately coincided with the Japanese school holidays. On the up-side, getting around Hokkaido is easier as there are more frequent bus and train services to match the increase tourist traffic. We chose to visit the windy city of Wakkanai and the islands of Rebun and Rishiri in the hope of viewing rare alpine flowers before heading to Furano and Biei in central Hokkaido.

Wakkanai-Rebun-Rishiri are Hokkaido's northern towns. Together, they form the Rebun-Rishiri-Sarobetsu National park. Rebun and Rishiri are known as floating islands of flowers. Here, alpine flowers grow at sea levels and are popular among hikers during summer (no need to travel over 12hrs in search of Edelweiss, they have it in Rebun). While Rebun island is popular among hikers and flower lovers, Rishiri island is dominated by Mt Rishiri or Rishirifuji and continues to challenge many climbers hoping to scale its height. Wakkanai is Japan's most northern city and is popular with the Russians due to its proximity to Sakhalin. This town is unique in that signboards of stores are written in Russian and Japanese.

Furano on the other hand is known as the navel of Hokkaido due to its central location. It is popular among tourists for its fields of lavender in the summer and for powder snow in winter. To the Japanese tourist, Furano is also the location of a long running drama series "Kita-no-kuni kara". Biei and Bibaushi, just 15 minutes from Furano by train is known for its expansive fields of sunflowers. It is also a popular location for shooting commercials.

Although it was peak tourist season, the crowds were not as bad as we had thought it would be. In fact, the towns of Rebun, Rishiri and Wakkanai were almost empty even though they were preparing for the matsuri (summer festival). The busiest town by far was Furano but attractions were not overwhelmingly crowded as I have expected it to be.

Quick Tips:

This website has a summary of useful links on Hokkaido.

I found Hyperdia a very useful tool in planning my trip to Hokkaido. It helped me calculate the cost and time needed to travel from place to place. If you intend to travel long distances via the JR train, do not forget to purchase your JR pass. This can be done easily online. Once the reservation is done, print out the email notification and bring it to the designated collection center, payment can be made upon collection in Hokkaido. We bought the 5-day JR pass. Travelling from Sapporo to Wakkanai to Asahikawa and Furano, we saved ￥4000 in all.

If you intend to drive, Tocoo offers competitive prices for car rentals.

Many have asked if communication was a problem , to be honest, I speak very little Japanese other than the standard "I do not understand Japanese". Still, I have not encountered much difficulty. When in a restaurant, we usually ask for an English menu or point to the picture in the menu, if this is not available, we would bring the waitress to the window display and point to the desired item (most restaurants have almost life-like plastic food displays of their menu outside). If the restaurant sells noodles, we would inevitably order char-siew ramen (Hokkaido's classic dish of pork slices with egg noodles). Failing which, we would whip out our digital camera and show them a picture of the dish we want (we have yet to reach this stage). We also find it prudent to carry a copy of the Japanese map of the place. This comes in handy when asking for directions.

Be sure to stop by the tourist information office at Furano and Biei and grab a copy of the English bus schedules and sightseeing recommendations. English speaking staff are at hand to assists in accommodation reservations, etc. Grab hold of a Japanese map of Biei. Scenic spots are mapped out clearly in the form of a camera symbol and these are not in the English version.

If you plan to visit Hokkaido in the summer, do make early reservations for accommodations. The popular ones are usually fully booked three months in advance.

Best Way To Get Around:

To Wakkanai:
From Sapporo, you can take the long distance Soya bus or the JR train to Wakkanai, depending on your budget and time availability. The journey takes about 4.5hrs by JR Ltd express train. From Wakkanai, the port is about a 10 minute walk from the JR train station. A quicker way is to fly to Asahikawa and take the train from there or fly direct to Wakkanai via domestic air. Please note that there are limited train and bus services per day.

Within Wakkanai
Most sights are within walking distance. For sights located outside of town, take the local buses.

To Rebun and Rishiri
Go here for the ferry schedule. The economy class costs ￥2200 one way to Kafuka (Rebun). From Kafuka (Rebun) to Oshidomari (Rishiri), the cost is ￥780 and takes about 45 minutes.

Within Rebun and Rishiri
Walking is the main form of transport although there are infrequent buses within the islands. Renting a car is expensive, the cheaper alternative would be to hire a bicycle. Alternatively, most minshukus and hotels offer shuttle services to the trail heads subject to prior arrangements.

To Furano and Biei
From Asahikawa:
Trains operate on a hourly schedule. The Norokko or Lavender-go train operates only during the summer from Asahikawa, be sure to ask for a copy of the schedule at the JR Asahikawa station. Alternatively, you can hop onto the Lavender-go bus but it may not be cheaper than the train and is definitely slower.

From Sapporo:
There are essentially two routes. You need to transfer trains at Takikawa to the JR Nemuro line to Furano or take the train to Asahikawa and transfer to the JR Furano line.

Within Furano
There are buses that run during the summer to most attractions around Furano just outside the JR Furano station. Ask for the bus schedule at the Tourist information office.

Within Biei and Bibaushi
The cheapest and easiest way to tour this region is by bicycle. Renting a car would be the wiser choice as there are no public buses servicing this area. Alternatively, you can join the sightseeing tours departing from the JR Biei station. If money is no object, hiring a taxi is also possible (￥10000 per hour).

Barden Kamifurano is the first of the 5 spas or onsens found in the scenic Tokachidake hotspring area near Kamifurano. This is a traditional Japanese spa that offers both Japanese and Western-styled rooms and is famed for its beef cuisine.

We chose to stay in a twin-sharing Western-styled room inclusive of two meals. We paid ¥11499 per person per night (inclusive of bath tax and GST). All rooms do not come with private bathrooms or toilets. The latter facilities are shared. However, even though it was peak tourist season, it was still relatively quiet and we were able to enjoy moments of privacy while relaxing in the onsen.

The highlight of this onsen hotel is of course, the 100% mineral hotspring bath. Guests can chose between soaking indoors or outdoors, the baths are unisex. The water is murky green and very hot (especially if you choose to soak indoors). Except for cleaning times between 12am to 2am, guests can soak to their hearts' content at most times. However, do take note that they may switch the male/female baths after cleaning (look to the cloth hanging above the door: blue for males, red for females.

Dinner featured the local beef from black-haired cattle raised with tender loving care at a nearby farm. Barden is the only place that serves this beef. The meat was so tender and fresh that it was served as sashimi. We chose to grill them on a hotplate and it literally melted in our mouths at first bite.

We enjoyed our 2 night stay there. We did short hikes to the nearby onsens and walking trails during the day and unwind in the onsen after that. Staying in the heart of the Tokaichi mountains, we felt re-charged after this quiet respite.

To get there:

We took the public onsen bus from the bus-stop outside the JR Kamifurano station, in front of a cafe. Due to peak tourist season, the hotel was unable to provide pick up service.

The bus schedule is available at the Tourist information center located directly across the road from the JR Kamifurano station and at the onsen hotels and bus-stops. There are three departures per day: 9:33am, 1:19pm, and 4:31pm from JR Kamifurano station and it costs ¥500 per person to Barden Kamifurano. Payment is made upon alighting the bus.

Go Here for further details on the hotel.

For reservations, you can email to b-k-onsen@topaz.plala.or.jp. Their replies are prompt.

This is their Japanese website.

Minshuku Bibaushi makes a good base if you intend to explore the rolling hills of Bibaushi and Biei by car. If you are dependent on public transport, it is better to stay at Biei instead as there are no taxis or buses that run from Bibaushi.

This is a budget family run minshuku that provides the basics -a roof over your head at night and hearty home cooked meals with seasonal vegetables from their own vegetable farm. There are many house rules: guests are expected to clear utensils and cutlery to the kitchen after meals, bath times are between 5pm to 10pm, lights out at 11pm, no smoking in the house (my favorite rule), meal times are 7:30am for breakfast, 6pm onwards for dinner.

The rooms are Japanese styled and guests are expected to make their own futon beds. Bathroom and toilet facilities are shared (no toiletries or bath towels sorry). In short, this minshuku is like a home away from home with "Papa" (the owner) making sure that everything is in order. At a flat rate of ¥4800 per person per night inclusive of two hearty Japanese meals, one cannot complain much. This has got to be the cheapest minshuku we stayed in during our entire trip.

If you have strong legs like us, it is possible to explore the nearby sights like the Chikisai-no-oka (a beautiful flower garden atop a hill, about 45 minutes) and the Bibaushi Elementary school (20 minutes) on foot. If not, you can rent one of their bikes and pedal your way around as many tourists do. Alternatively, you can chill out at their "little lounge" across the minshuku, facing a garden and vegetable farm. This lounge was built by the owner. There is pretty much nothing to do after dark, (being located in a farm area) other than watch Japanese variety shows on telly; or you can buy fire crackers from the local convenient shop Biba and light the skies with it.

To get there:

Minshuku Bibaushi is located a mere 5 minute walk from the JR Bibaushi station (if you are coming from Furano, you need to cross the track to the other side). Look out for a huge wooden board that has directions to nearby Youth hostel and sights. It was easy to find our way there once we had our bearings right. Clear wooden signs with neon arrows directed the way. You cannot get lost.

Go here for details and online reservations. You can email them directly at bibaushi@kmj.biglobe.ne.jp too.

For reservations of other accommodations in Biei, This website is very useful.

Rebun, together with Rishiri are known as the floating islands of flowers. This island spans 72km and is famed for its alpine flowers. We stayed at a family run minshuku- Nature Inn Hanashin located approximately 5 minutes drive from the Kafuka port or about 20 minutes walk. We made our reservations via the Rebun booking agency by phone together with our request for pick-up service.

We arrived at the port early and was met by the guide who looked exactly like the one in the hand-drawn map at the homepage! Unfortunately, the weather was wet upon arrival and we were told that most hiking trails and all public transport has been shut down as a result. We were allowed to check in early.

The Japanese-styled room (named Iris) we were to stay in has a view of the sea and on clear days, we were able to see Mt Rishiri, one of the top 100 most beautiful mountains in Japan. The staff spoke a little English and were extremely helpful. We had chosen the cheapest plan (peak season at ¥9240 per person per night inclusive of 2 meals and taxes) so we had to use the common toilet and bathroom. No complains though since it was right across our room. The unisex bathroom is partitioned into indoor and outdoors. Perhaps due to the weather, there were not many guests despite being peak tourist season and we enjoyed privacy while using the common bathroom.

The staff provide advice on where the best hikes are and arrangements for transfer to the hiking trails are possible at no extra charge. However, a fee is charged for guide services (prior reservations required). The meals served in the common dining room were exquisite with attentive service rendered to all guests. The meals served were Japanese and featured local seasonal ingredients. Simply delicious.

Go Here for their homepage which also has a blog that updates travellers on what are the latest bloom and activities around the island. However, the website is in Japanese only. You can use a language translator like Google though.

You need to contact them or the Rebun Reservation center by phone for room reservations. In fact, most inns in Rebun request phone bookings only as there are virtually no Internet access on the island. Emails sent were unanswered (I tried many sites) so the quickest way is to call personally.

This is the Rebun Reservation website listing all available inns at Rebun. A 5% discount is given if reservations are made through them at this number: 0163-86-1196. Click on the 5% Off icon for further details. Staff at the center understands English so I had no problems making reservations.

Alternatively, you can approach the tourist information office at Wakkanai for assistance before making your way to the islands.

Petite Hotel Suzuran is a small scaled family run hotel with a guest capacity of 65. It is conveniently located next to a ski slope in the heart of the Kitanomine ski area of Furano. Due to its proximity, this hotel makes for a good base for ski enthusiasts during winter. There are also several restaurants serving western and Japanese cuisine within walking distance for those who chose not to have their meals at the hotel.

We chose to stay at the Japanese styled tatami room that could easily accommodate four persons. We were charged ¥8400 per person per night inclusive of taxes and two meals. Toilet and bathroom facilities are shared. There are vending machines by the stair landing offering basic toiletries and beverages or guests can purchase them at the reception counter. We had no communication problems at all since the manager Mr Ikeno speaks perfect English. Browsing their pictorial board at the lobby, this hotel seemed popular among foreigners.

This hotel is also popular among locals for its stone bath. The bathroom, located on the first floor opposite the reception is open to public from 4pm onwards. The stone bath is said to contain similar properties as that of natural mineral hot spring water and is recommended for those with arthritis, sore muscles, and aches. Nevertheless, it makes for a relaxing soak after a hard day's sightseeing. To enjoy the bath in privacy, reservations are required and for a limited period between 10pm-11pm and 6am-7am (shower only). Bathroom is unisex.

Dinners served featured typical Japanese home fare using seasonal ingredients. Breakfast is a mix of Western and Japanese dishes. They were able to accommodate our request to serve non-beef meals for one of our travel companion. All meals are served in a common dining room located on the first floor.

Other services provided include laundry (¥400 per load, before 8pm) and free Internet access (available from 4pm-8pm) at the lobby/reception area. We enjoyed our stay there, the food was great and the hotel was quiet.

Getting there:

The hotel provides complimentary transfer services to and from the JR Furano station at 8am and 9am, and after 4pm. For transfer service in the afternoon, guests are required to contact the hotel for reservations.

If you are arriving by the Lavender-go bus, alight at the Naturwald Hotel bus-stop. The hotel is less than 3 minutes walk from there.

Go here for online reservations and enquiries.

Toyoko Inn is a budget chain hotel that is found in many parts of Japan. In Sapporo itself, there are five in all, located centrally near the JR station or at Susukino, the shopping and food district of Sapporo. Regardless of location, each hotel are standardised in terms of services and room layout. As such, guests are assured of quality services no matter which branch they are staying in.

We stayed at the Nishi-guchi Hokudai Mae located directly across the Hokkaido University, approximately 8 minutes walk from the station (depending on station exit). We were given rooms on the 13th floor which gave us a bird's eye view of the university and the ropeway afar. The room is small but this is fairly standard in any hotels in Japan. In fact, we had stayed at hotels with smaller rooms at higher prices so the rooms at Toyoko Inn are value for money (just do not attempt to perform any aerobics or warrior yoga in it).

We choose to stay at Toyoko-Inn whenever possible. The services is a hybrid between YMCA and youth hostel, i.e., convenient location at budget prices, suitable for family with privacy assured. For the price of ¥9,240 for a double or twin sharing room, you get daily free Japanese breakfast consisting of different flavored onigiri (rice balls), miso soup, pickles and tea/coffee (from 7 to 9am), delicious curry rice dinner (6.30 to 8pm), free Internet access and local calls. There are also complimentary English movies screened twice a day, a sweet relief for those of us who have been staying at minshukus with only Japanese channels (even if you hated the movie) .

Reservations can be made online in English Here. Do check out their various discount plans . For example, guests above 60 years are eligible for special discounts.

La Malta came highly recommended by our lady manager at the Bibaushi minshuku for its home roasted coffee and curry rice. The weather did not collaborate with us on the day of arrival. It was dreary and wet, making sightseeing impossible. We aborted our day's plan to see the sights of Biei and made our way back to Bibaushi by rail. Since it was near tea-time, we decided to try La Malta.

It is located less than 10 minutes walk from JR Bibaushi station. The distinct wooden lodge stood out and apart from the neighbourhood helped us find it. The place was quiet, we were the only customers at the time.

The decor is in Western country style. A furnace welcomes all guests on entry and the whole ambience is cosy and relaxing. Light meals are served but the main specialty is coffee brewed from freshly self roasted coffee beans. They have a wide selection of coffee but other beverages like tea or sodas are also available.

We were given an English menu and ordered their house brew and a soybean coffee. These came with pistachio nuts that went well with the fragrant coffee. This cafe is no Starbucks, the coffee is brewed slowly and with tender loving care meant to be savoured at leisure. There are numerous board games and puzzles to occupy time. Many, we suspect were hand-crafted locally. We lingered until the rain had stopped and our feet had ceased to ache before making our way back to the minshuku.

If you have some time to spare, do drop by La Malta and try their coffee.

Getting there

From the JR Bibaushi station, walk towards the convenient store Biba. Cross over to the other side of the road and look for a lane between a store and a printing house. Follow that lane, passing by backyards of small vegetable and fruit plots until you reach an opening. The cafe is located on the right hand side, near the corner of a road junction.

Rebun island is located at the most northern part of Hokkaido and is better known for its alpine flowers and the 8 hour hiking course that circumvents through the island. Rebun is accessible from Wakkanai via the Higashinihonkai ferry.

Upon reaching Rebun, we were informed that public buses and most hiking trails have been closed due to the wet weather. However, we were informed that the Rebun Woodland trail was still opened. Undaunted, we asked that they send us to the trail anyway.

The Rebun Woodland trail is approximately 8km that covers the southern tip of the island commencing at Kaifukai and ends near the Kafuka port. This scenic route is suitable to casual hikers of all ages and on fine days, hikers would be able to see Mt Rishiri and the sea of Japan at the observation point.

We commenced our hike at the Kafukai Woodland path. The trail was partially flooded initially but surprisingly not muddy as the trail was paved with gravel. We made a gradual ascent into the hills, through fragrant pine forests dotted with wild flowers on both sides of the path. Near the observation point, the peak was bare with stunted pine trees bent towards one side. The blooms were colourful but sparse and closer to the ground compared to those found at the foothills. Alas, the rain brought in mist and we were unable to see far. It covered the hills, giving it a mysterious air.

Midway, the trail branched off to the waterfalls. We decided against it due to the rain. It was pouring by then. We were pleasantly surprised to see our guide from the minshuku too. We were the only "mad" hikers to take on the trail on a rainy day and he was worried. He soon disappeared into the mist when he found us sane and alive.

We completed the hike in 4 hours instead of the suggested 3 hours, in part, due to the many stops we made to photograph the alpine flowers we found along the way. This hike has given us a glimpse of the beauty of Rebun and we would not hesitate to come back again to try the other trails too.

Getting around
The best way to get around the island is via bicycles which can be rented either near the port or at the minshukus. There are public buses but trips are infrequent. Some minshukus provide complimentary transport to the trail heads. Alternatively, you can join the day tours at the Kafuka port timed to the arrivals of the ferry. However, the tours cater mainly to Japanese tourists and are conducted only in Japanese.

This website gives an overall picture of the island and the various hikes.

This is the official Japanese website of the island.

Note:
The best time to visit Rebun is between June to August. This is also the peak season. If you intend to hike, do stay for at least 2 nights.

Farm Tomita is perhaps the most visited farm in Furano by tourists all over the world. The farm's history goes back to 1903 but it was not until the late 1960s that lavender was cultivated successfully for its essence. Today, it has expanded from a farm to include a cafe, a museum, a greenhouse, a distillery for perfume, numerous gift shops, and ice cream stands selling the famed Lavender ice cream, several hectares of fields devoted to seasonal flowers and lavender. In short, it is now a tourist hub, especially during summer.

The best time to visit Farm Tomita is during the lavender season, usually between June to early August. There are two distinct lavender fields, one for early lavender blooms (late June to July), the other, late lavender blooms (early August). Approaching the farm, we were delighted by the colourful blooms of the seasonal flowers and the huge expanse of purple lavender. Alighting from the bus, we were instantly hit by the strong scent of lavender.

The farm was crowded with ceaseless tour coaches depositing countless of camera wielding tourists hailed mainly from neighbouring Asia-Pacific countries. It was a little too commercialised and crowded to our liking. Entrance is free but visitors are not encouraged to enter into the lavender fields.

At the time of our visit, the farm was also selling rock melons at ¥250 per slice. After doing the obligatory walk around the lavender fields (don't forget to head for the traditional lavender garden and forest/slopes for the best views), purchase the obligatory potpourri from one of its many gift shops, tried their curry rice featuring seasonal ingredients and polishing off the creamy lavender ice-cream that was light scented and delightful to taste, we explored the nearby farms too.

We stumbled into a smaller farm located less than 1km from Tomita selling rock melons at ¥500 per melon among other seasonal harvest. The farm is run by an elderly couple whose combined ages were more than 140 years. They were happy to serve us the rock melon cold from the fridge when we indicated our interest . The rock melon was sweet and very juicy. The couple was great company even though we could not communicate very well. Towards the end of our visit, they even jokingly offered us a room in their loft, yasui (cheap) said he with a twinkle in his eye. We left happy and satiated.

If you have very little time to explore Furano and do not intend to stop at Biei, this farm is a must visit then. Otherwise, head for the less crowded Lavender farms/gardens elsewhere in Nakafurano, Kamifurano and Biei.

Getting there

Go Here for details and map to Farm Tomita.

Go Here for bus schedule details or grab an English copy of the bus schedule at the Furano Tourist information office located next to the JR Furano.

Shopaholics Alert! If you love to shop, this is THE place to be, especially during the summer sale. There are about 100 shops here carrying mainly European and US brands such as Timberland, Brooks Brothers, Coach, Cole Haan, and the list goes on. Products may not be from the latest season or collection but the prices are very competitive and certainly more affordable.

We grab a copy of the outlet's map from the Tourist information office at the JR Sapporo station and marked out our strategy prior to our trip (must maximise time!) Alternatively, you can download a copy at their website listed below.

This mall is pet and child friendly. It has adequate facilities for the disabled and an indoor children's playground to keep the young ones entertained. There are coin lockers for those with luggage or bulky bags near the information counter.

We spent half a day exploring all the shops and managed to find some good buys. My most satisfied find was a pair black 501 Levis jeans for a mere S$15 inclusive of on-the-spot alteration. We were exhausted by the end of the day and came away with huge grins, heavy bags but lighter wallets.

Getting there:
There are half hourly free shuttle buses to and from the Rera outlet and the Chitose airport.

If you are coming from Sapporo, take the JR train and alight at the JR Minami Chitose station. From there, it is a 5 minute walk. Ask for the cheaper "free" ticket which simply means free seating and no time restrictions. The fare is cheaper but you may have to stand if the train is crowded. The journey is approximately 25 minutes.

Go here for details of the mall and access. This website is in Japanese, Korean and Chinese only.

We took the ferry from Rebun to Oshidomari port in Rishiri after a 1 night stay in Rebun. The weather did not improved but we were still optimistic that the clouds might clear.

We arrived around noon and checked into a hostel-like minshuku located 5 minutes by car from the port or about 15minutes walk. The town was holding a summer festival and we were told that there will be a party nearby in the evening. Since we had no intention to climb Mt Rishiri, we decided to join the sightseeing bus tour (course B) that departs from the port in the afternoon.

This round island tour is about 2.5hrs and took us to the scenic spots like the Otatomari swamp famed for its mirrored image of Mt Rishiri, the Senhoshimisaki cape park famed for its human-like rocks made of lava and the natural aquarium where visitors can view sea urchins and the local seaweed up close. We were given time to check out the stalls selling local products or simply have a cuppa.

The tour costs ¥2800 and came with complimentary postcards. The tour guide was informative and entertained us with local history, folklore, and songs enroute. She also pointed out various interesting landmarks enroute. For those who do not understand Japanese, there are simple pictorial explanations of the sights found at the back of the seats in the bus. The times for coming back to the bus at designated sightseeing spots were also clearly indicated by the guide using a white board. This tour is not cheap but is suitable for those with limited time and handicapped by lack of transport.

To kill time before the departure of the tour, we took a short hike to the nearby observation point/ lighthouse beside the port. It offered a superb view of Mt Rishiri and the island of Rebun afar. At the foot of the hill, we stopped by the cafe cum photo gallery before heading back to the port.

Go here for the schedule and details of the sightseeing tours in Rishiri, Rebun and Wakkanai. Unfortunately, the website is only in Japanese.

Nijyo Fish Market is located in central Sapporo and is said to be more than 100 years old. There are more than 50 shops selling groceries, regional fresh fruits, vegetables, and seafood. There are also kitchenettes or hole in the wall restaurants selling the freshest sashimi and donburi (assorted sashimi atop vinegared rice) at affordable prices. Compared to Hakodate's Morning market, Nijyo fish market is much smaller and quieter.

Nevertheless, this is the best place to stock up on souvenirs as most shops are duty free. We literally swept the shelves empty as we grabbed boxes of Royce chocolates selling at ￥600 instead of ￥630 elsewhere. The best selling being the Royce chocolate potato chips. Yum!

Check out the seasonal fruits as well. Rock melons were in season and we bargained for a premium Yubari rock melon (best melon in the world!) for ￥5500, expensive yes for a fruit? But it was 50% cheaper than if we had purchased it back home. The difference between a Yubari rock melon and a usual one is in the taste, texture and fragrance. One has to taste it to appreciate the difference. The melon we chose was packed carefully in a box and came with a leaflet explaining its origins and even the philosophy of the farmer. There were also instructions on the best way to enjoy the melon. This melon was definitely grown with tender loving care.

Opening hours:
Approximately between 7am to 6pm.

Getting there:
It is about 5min walk from Odori Subway Station or Bus center mae Subway Station.

The Twinkle bus Biei-go covers two routes: the Hill course and the Takushinkan course. We signed up for both since these routes were short but covers popular sights of Biei and Bibaushi.

The Hill or Oka sightseeing course covers popular sights in Biei that were featured mainly in TV commercials. Most of the sightseeing were mainly done from the bus. "Anyone can plant a tree in the middle of a field, name it and get it into a commercial" a friend succinctly declared at the end of the 1 hour tour. The sights featured were mainly of solitary poplar or oak trees standing in the middle of a field while the scenery were beautiful, it was not exceptional. We were unimpressed by the end of this tour.

We returned after lunch for the 2nd part of the tour, the Takushinkan course which was 1.5hrs and covered the famed rolling hills of Bibaushi. The highlight of this tour was the Takushinkan photo gallery which featured photos by landscape photographer Shinzo Maeda. It was through his lens that Biei became known to the world. We decided not to continue with the tour by this time. Instead, we were inspired by the photos of Shinzo Maeda and decided to head for the Tree of Philosophy which seemed nearby. It turned out to be almost 20 minute walk down the road from the gallery. From there, it was another 40 minute walk to the Shikisai-no-oka flower garden and a 20 minute walk back to our minshuku. In all, we covered almost 10km in distance and enjoyed every bit of it as we walked past fields of sunflowers, wheat, and barley.

Each tour costs ¥600 per person and is conducted in Japanese. Again, there are English cards explaining the sights placed behind the back of every seats. The tours are suitable for those with time restrictions or are transport handicapped. It merely gives visitors an overview of Biei and Bibaushi.

The best way to see both Biei and Bibaushi is by car and at your own leisure, not by the sightseeing buses. We were fortunate to be staying within walking distances of some of the featured sights and had the luxury of taking our time to appreciate and do justice to the sights we came across. If you intend to visit Biei and Bibaushi, do give yourself a few days to fully appreciate the laid-back charm of this town.

The Twinkle bus tour is a sightseeing bus tour that brings visitors to various drama locations used for the long running popular Japanese drama series "From the Northern country"(Kita no Kuni kara). The tour tickets can be bought at the JR Furano station and costs ¥1000 per person (not inclusive of entrance fees to Goro's recycled house and Stone house which is ¥200 each). This is a highly popular tour among Japanese tourists and quickly sells out, especially during peak tourist season so early reservations are required.

This half day tour departs from the Furano bus terminal- bus stop No.4 at 12:30pm sharp and lasts about 4 hours. It brings visitors to the Rokugo area stopping at the Recycled house first, followed by Goro's stone house, the jam garden (where visitors can taste up to 30 different flavours), the Anpanman toy shop (huge hit with local children), the cheese and ice cream factory (more food tasting, don't miss the wine cheddar cheese and the squid ink cheese) and the Ninguru terrace (cluster of charming shops in a forest near New Prince hotel selling local handicrafts) before returning to Furano again.

Even though we have never heard of the drama, this tour was a great way to see the Rokugo area within a short time (the alternative would have been time consuming via public transport or expensive if by taxi). We chose not to enter the Recycled house and Goro's stone house but enjoyed the scenery from afar. Each stop was approximately 10 to 20 minutes, the time indicated clearly by the guide on a white board.

Commentary was in Japanese but there were English explanation cards at the back of each seat in the bus. Our favourite stop was the Cheese and Ice Cream Factory. There were many interesting ice cream flavours, we tried pumpkin, asparagus (available in summer only), and cheese and they tasted just that. About 5 minutes from the Cheese Factory is a small photography studio- Oka-no-Shashinkan owned by Yutaka Nasuno. If you have little interest in cheese tasting or ice cream, drop by this gallery and be amazed by the beautiful photographs of the Furano and surrounds.

The time for each stop was sufficient. If you have only half a day to visit Furano, this tour is a good introduction as it passes rolling fields of wheat and lavender and through pine forests. The tour is timed with the departure of the 1628hr JR Lavender express back to Asahikawa.

Priority is given to tourists holding JR tickets so do make early reservations if you are visiting during the summer period (we bought our tickets a day ahead).