San Diego, July, 2007

Can a traveler reasonably expect true hospitality from a budget hotel? The Lamplighter (and its sister property, Old Town Inn, where we stayed in February) prove that one can. True, the Lamplighter is away from downtown, near the UCSD campus, but its combination of comfort, amenities, and personalized service compare favorably to much higher priced accommodations. For us, it was well worth the drive.

San Diego is triply blessed. First, there was the unprecedented generosity of the Spreckels family, who caused the great organ to be built for the Panama-California Exposition in 1915. Then later came the Spreckels Organ Society, who thoroughly refurbished the great organ, bringing it to its present top form. And now comes Dr. Carol Williams, civic organist.

Dr. Williams programs weekly free concerts at 2pm on Sundays. You will frequently find her at the keyboard, and often in the company of other accomplished musicians. View upcoming programs at www.sosorgan.com.

One needs no musical expertise to enjoy these concerts, and they bring a welcome respite from the exhaustion of the usual tourist activities, like trekking the zoo. The organ is simply magnificent and, although such an instrument is usually found in a cathedral, this one seems uncannily at home in the outdoors.

The summer sun can be brutal. Bring an umbrella, or rent one on site.

Enjoy the hip Gaslamp Quarter with an entertaining retelling of stories of the naughty ladies of the "Stingaree" and other colorful history of the area.

Your tour of the William Heath Davis House, oldest wooden structure in downtown San Diego, complete with its history (too unusual to have been made up) will whet your appetite for the tales to come as you hike the Gaslamp in the company of a truly knowledgeable guide.

Come prepared to walk briskly and listen intently for a full two hours, and the Gaslamp will never again be just a bunch of fancy old buildings.

My beloved often wears his red crocs while traveling, not just for the comfort, but for the conversations they prompt. Who could have expected those red crocs would become an object of lust?

It happened in one of the aviaries at the San Diego Zoo. As we wandered through, a large bird began circling the red crocs. Around and around he pranced, displaying, fanning his crown, sweeping his wings wide. A small crowd gathered, laughing, as the red crocs and excited rooster continued the courtship dance.

Only then did we notice that the bird’s legs and feet were the exact shade of red. Had he found true love?