Poor Man's Galapagos? Isla de la Plata and Around

Hostal Los Islotes

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Hotel | "Hotel Los Islotes (Puerto Lopez)"

Puerto Lopez Beach Photo - Hostal Los Islotes, Puerto Lopez, Ecuador

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Arriving into Puerto Lopez, a small fishing village at sunrise isn't the best of times for finding accommodation. After trying a number of seafront hotels, Los Islotes proved the saviour. First impressions weren't perfect, but obtaining a sea view room for $10 a night per person is an opportunity too good to waste.Los Islotes Hotel is located right in the middle of the Malecon opposite the beach. Even better, it's also smack bang in the middle of Puerto Lopez's best restaurants, including two of the very best Puerto Lopez has to offer; Carmita (located next door) and The Whale Cafe, two blocks south. You would have thought being located so close to some of the main night time spots noise w...Read More

Arriving into Puerto Lopez, a small fishing village at sunrise isn't the best of times for finding accommodation. After trying a number of seafront hotels, Los Islotes proved the saviour. First impressions weren't perfect, but obtaining a sea view room for $10 a night per person is an opportunity too good to waste.

Los Islotes Hotel is located right in the middle of the Malecon opposite the beach. Even better, it's also smack bang in the middle of Puerto Lopez's best restaurants, including two of the very best Puerto Lopez has to offer; Carmita (located next door) and The Whale Cafe, two blocks south. You would have thought being located so close to some of the main night time spots noise would be a problem. This wasn't the case as surprisingly to me by 9pm the whole promenade was completely dead. Very strange when you consider July is perfect for whale-watching.

The sign for Los Islotes is impossible to miss, placed so far out in the road, that it's a major safety hazard for passing motorists. The entrance on the other hand isn't so obvious, up an unmarked hallway to a first floor reception. If you can, try and get room 7 as this is the only one with ocean views. There is another room on the 3rd floor with sea views, but during my visit this was being used by the Villamar Castillo family, who own the hotel. Maybe this changes in the busier peak season, running from January to April?

After bartering the price down to $10 a night per person due to a stay over two nights I was more than happy with my return. Each room comes with one double and one single bed with virgin white sheets and a thicker blanket for those chillier nights. Rooms also have cable television, ideal considering how quiet the evenings are. Other highlights include a fan, towels, toiletries, en-suite bathroom, and big wide windows that allowed half decent sea views and when opened, the soothing sound of crashing waves. Los Islotes wasn't perfect. The staff could have been more on the friendly side and I also wasn't happy that my shower gave out more electrical shocks than hot water.

While service isn't the friendliness it is efficient and rooms are cleaned daily. There is also a next day laundry service, costing $2.50 a kilo and a second floor cafe serving a variety of drinks. Discounts can also be received at the travel agency next door on local tours including Isla de la Plata and whale watching. Normal price of rooms varies between $20 and $30 a night depending on room and season. Check out time is midday. More information can be found by calling 593-05-2300-108 or emailing hostallosislotes@hotmail.com. Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on August 8, 2007

Hostal Los Islotes
Malecon Julio Izurieta y Gral. Cordoba
Puerto Lopez, Ecuador
+593 (05) 2300-108

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The Whale Cafe

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Restaurant

Puerto Lopez Photo - Ecuador, South America

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Although just a small fishing village, Puerto Lopez is the central hub for day trips to Isla de la Plata, Machalilla National Park and for whale-watching. This helps explain why there seems to be a rather large proportion of restaurants seeking business here. One walk along the Malecon (promenade) certainly reiterates this fact with an endless line of eateries offering all kinds of seafood and international cuisine. As to be expected in any tourist area, the food on offer covers the whole spectrum in terms of quality and price, with only a handful offering good value in both. This includes The Whale Café, which in my opinion is one of the best this village has to offer. The Whale Cafe ...Read More

Although just a small fishing village, Puerto Lopez is the central hub for day trips to Isla de la Plata, Machalilla National Park and for whale-watching. This helps explain why there seems to be a rather large proportion of restaurants seeking business here. One walk along the Malecon (promenade) certainly reiterates this fact with an endless line of eateries offering all kinds of seafood and international cuisine.

As to be expected in any tourist area, the food on offer covers the whole spectrum in terms of quality and price, with only a handful offering good value in both. This includes The Whale Café, which in my opinion is one of the best this village has to offer.

The Whale Cafe is located at the southern end of town, opposite the beach and the place where the majority of the fishing activity takes place. This makes it an ideal destination to enjoy breakfast, sampling the huge fruit salad and granola dishes, or the equally tempting maple and apple pancakes while enjoying the hustle and bustle of the beach below, numerous fishing walking past their days catch wedged firmly under their arms.

Come at night and you witness another part of Puerto Lopez’s culture; alcohol. Grown men huddled in groups litter the beach front, drinking illicit brews while trying to fend off excited packs of homeless dogs that roam the streets.

The best thing about The Whale Café is its varied menu and its ability to successfully mix international cuisine with local dishes and fresh seafood, something the expat American owners, Diane and Kevin, residents here for 15 years should be very proud of. I normally focus my foreign currency on native eateries, but with so many compliments directed this way I just couldn’t resist, returning many times during my stay in Puerto Lopez, especially after tasting the grilled fish sandwiches and the fresh shrimps in garlic sauce, all of which leave you change from a $5 note.

More Western staples such as pizza, pasta and burgers also grace the menu, all of which should be washed down with one of the variety of fresh juices or milkshakes available and a piece of homemade apple pie ($2) or a brownie ($1.50), both of which are divine.

Western owned it also has the added benefit for those travellers with poor Spanish skills to get exactly what you’re asking for. The best seats are located upstairs on the balcony overlooking the beach. More seating is available downstairs, all of which give refreshing sea breezes and a relaxed, quiet atmosphere. Due to the popularity of The Whale Cafe, it is the only restaurant alongside Carmita’s that remains busy all day long so try and avoid eating at peak times unless you want to wait.

If in the Puerto Lopez vicinity, I whole heartedly recommend eating here at least once. The restaurant is open from 8.30am-11pm. The owners also provide a wealth of knowledge on local excursions and which tour agencies are the best to use. Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on October 7, 2007

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Restaurant Carmita

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Restaurant

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For such a small restaurant you can’t falter the national and even international reputation that Carmita beholds. Located in the fishing village of Puerto Lopez, along the Ecuadorian coastline, I first heard of Carmita when discussing a whale-watching trip to Puerto Lopez with a local dignitary deep in the Amazon jungle. After having the quality of Carmita’s food confirmed by other travellers on route to Puerto Lopez, there wasn’t any doubt where I’d be enjoying my first evening meal. Restaurant Carmita is situated along the beach front promenade, Malecon Julio Izurieta, and it seems every other building is a restaurant. It seems a precarious position to be in when there is so much competiti...Read More

For such a small restaurant you can’t falter the national and even international reputation that Carmita beholds. Located in the fishing village of Puerto Lopez, along the Ecuadorian coastline, I first heard of Carmita when discussing a whale-watching trip to Puerto Lopez with a local dignitary deep in the Amazon jungle. After having the quality of Carmita’s food confirmed by other travellers on route to Puerto Lopez, there wasn’t any doubt where I’d be enjoying my first evening meal.

Restaurant Carmita is situated along the beach front promenade, Malecon Julio Izurieta, and it seems every other building is a restaurant. It seems a precarious position to be in when there is so much competition with other eateries, all serving virtually identical menus. The only difference upon my visit between Carmita and its nearby rivals is the small issue of popularity. Even in the off-season Carmita is always fully to bursting with happy customers, while other establishments remain virtually empty. This must be a sure sign why this family-run restaurant has been operating for over thirty years.

From first impressions, there seems to be nothing special about Carmita, which has a max capacity of fifty people. The tables are covered with plastic clothes, allowing a ‘one wipe and ready for the next batch of customers’ type of service. The decoration is a little worn, but in comparison to other Puerto Lopez efforts, it’s a touch of luxury, with an old fashioned wooden bar area to the left of the main entrance, which seems completely out of character.

I was hoping for an outside ‘sea-view’ table, but due to Carmita’s popularity, I was forced to take one inside next to the busy, but quiet kitchen. This was lucky as watching the stray dogs begging for food outside, I could have easily lost half my meal to a snatch and grab raid.

The menu is straightforward, with a choice of freshly caught seafood, chicken or beef, cooked in a variety of ways, and accompanied by chips, rice and salad. If you are looking on splurging out then there is crab, lobster, and spondylus, a local delicacy, similar to oyster. After much debating, it was the breaded shrimp that stole my heart. I wasn’t disappointed with my $7 choice; fourteen large succulent shrimps and a mountain of rice, chips and salads to feed the begging dogs outside for months on end. I was so satisfied I returned later in the week to taste some garlic sea bass as well ($9).

A range of alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks are available to wash the food down, although I’d save room for a fresh fruit cocktail at one of the stalls opposite the restaurant after finishing the meal. Unlike many other restaurants in Puerto Lopez, credit cards are accepted. Main dishes are on average $7-$10, which considering the freshness is excellent value. Service is efficient, while menus are provided in both English and Spanish. More information can be obtained by calling Carmita on +543-(0)5-2604-146 or +543-(0)5-2300149.
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Member Rating 5 out of 5 on March 8, 2008

Restaurant Carmita
Malecón Julio Izurieta
Puerto Lopez, Ecuador

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Los Frailes

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Attraction

Playa Los Frailes (Playa Tortuguita) - Puerto Lopez Photo - Galapagos Islands, Ecuador

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Inside Machalilla National Park is one of the most beautiful stretches of deserted beach on the Ecuadorian coast, surrounded by the freakish looking dead, twisted dry forests called 'bosque seca'. This is Los Frailes.Located 10km north of Puerto Lopez, Los Frailes isn't difficult to reach. The best option is using a motorcycle taxi, like those seen in India, costing $10 for the return trip. The only other possibility is catching a green 'Manglarito' bus that make their way to Jipijapa every hour. Although cheaper ($0.50 each way), buses drop you at the entrance to the park, where a 3km walk to the beach is needed, something missed if using a taxi. Due to its location inside Machalilla Nati...Read More

Inside Machalilla National Park is one of the most beautiful stretches of deserted beach on the Ecuadorian coast, surrounded by the freakish looking dead, twisted dry forests called 'bosque seca'. This is Los Frailes.

Located 10km north of Puerto Lopez, Los Frailes isn't difficult to reach. The best option is using a motorcycle taxi, like those seen in India, costing $10 for the return trip. The only other possibility is catching a green 'Manglarito' bus that make their way to Jipijapa every hour. Although cheaper ($0.50 each way), buses drop you at the entrance to the park, where a 3km walk to the beach is needed, something missed if using a taxi. Due to its location inside Machalilla National Park a ticket is needed for entry. This costs $15, or if visiting Isla de la Plata as well, $20. Both these tickets are valid for a four-day period from day of issue.

Once arriving at the beach you are met with 1500m of pristine white sand. Unless visiting during a high-season weekend the beach is virtually deserted. The sea is calm and ideal for swimming but like most of Ecuador's coast, watch out for the tiny jellyfish lurking in the waters, who have the ability of unleashing a nasty little sting.

To the left handside of Los Frailes there are two tiny, sand-filled alcoves that can be reached at low tide, but considering there are another two beaches, Playa Tortuguita and Playa Playita just a short walk away, better options are available. These beaches are reached to the right of Los Frailes where a path takes you to Playa Tortuguita. Halfway along this trail another path branches left to the 'mirador,' an outlook point at the top of the cliff giving perfect views over both Los Frailes and Tortuguita beaches.

Tortuguita, 'little turtle' in English is used at certain times of the year by turtles to lay their eggs. There was no sign of this activity upon my visit, just a dead decaying sea turtle corpse bobbing around in the water instead. Unlike Los Frailes, the beach is mainly a sharp, rocky outcrop so swimming is not recommended. A ten-minute walk further on from Playa Tortuguita through more dry forest is the last beach, the tiny Playa Playita, meaning 'little beach'. Apart from black sands, views over the nearby town of Machalilla and the odd nesting frigate bird, this beach doesn't offer that much along its 20m shoreline. For relaxing and enjoyment, Los Frailes is certainly the best.

If you get bored with the sand-sea combination, there are a number of trails through the surrounding dry forests. These forests covered the whole Ecuadorian coast in old times, but now 90% have been deforested.

There are few facilities here, only toilets and changing rooms at the entrance to Los Frailes beach. Allow at least a half day for a visit here. More information on Los Frailes and Machalilla National Park in general at www.thebestofecuador.com/pnmach.htm. Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on August 8, 2007

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Agua Blanca

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Attraction

Agua Blanca (Machalilla National Park) Photo - Ecuador, South America

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For many people, a visit to Puerto Lopez is a quick painless affair, stopping briefly to take in a spot of whale-watching or a trip to Isla de la Plata before carrying on down the coast to Montanita or Guayaquil. For those willing to stay longer, there are plenty of activities in the nearby Machalilla National Park to enjoy. This includes Agua Blanca, a tiny settlement that offers a lot more than its size would suggest.The biggest draw of Agua Blanca is its proximity to some ancient ruins of the Manteno culture, which roamed this area between 800-1532AD. Other human traces have also been found dating back 3000 years. The village boasts a small museum promoting this ancient culture with numer...Read More

For many people, a visit to Puerto Lopez is a quick painless affair, stopping briefly to take in a spot of whale-watching or a trip to Isla de la Plata before carrying on down the coast to Montanita or Guayaquil. For those willing to stay longer, there are plenty of activities in the nearby Machalilla National Park to enjoy. This includes Agua Blanca, a tiny settlement that offers a lot more than its size would suggest.

The biggest draw of Agua Blanca is its proximity to some ancient ruins of the Manteno culture, which roamed this area between 800-1532AD. Other human traces have also been found dating back 3000 years. The village boasts a small museum promoting this ancient culture with numerous artifacts on display, such as cooking utensils, jewellery, statues, and ceramics. Although the displays are all in Spanish they are still very easy to follow.

The museum and tour is very informative and I was surprised to learn that this area once was the centre of a vast trading network reaching as far north as Mexico. A tour of the museum is followed by a walk through the local community to a collection of excavated ruins. Sadly these are nothing more than piles of stone, but still give a glimpse of their powerful past. Along the way, numerous birdlife and damage from past El Nino’s that ravaged this area are pointed out by the informative guide.

The village is also famous for a lagoon, fed by underground volcanic waters. Although cold and refreshing, there is the pungent aroma of rotten eggs which cannot be escaped. Remarkably though, if swimming in the water, this sulphuric smell disappears from your body within fifteen minutes of leaving the water. If you are lucky iguanas also come to the lagoons edge to bask in the sun.

The tour is finished with a strenuous climb to the top of a look-out tower on the edge of the village, giving excellent views over the dry forests of Machalilla National Park and also towards the cloud forests of San Sebastian where the altitude increases.

The town can be reached by taking the north road out of town, taking the right turn at Buena Vista. Hiring bikes is a nice 10km journey, although beware of the numerous snarling dogs that prowl the roads. An easier option is to hire one of the moto-taxis, which cost $10 for the return trip, including waiting time. Buses also leave from outside Restaurant Carmita on the Malecon but only on Saturday’s.

The museum is open from 8am-6pm and entrance costs $2 on top of the National Park ticket that is also needed ($30 or $35). The guide is included in the entrance cost. Camping ($2 approx. per night) is available in the village alongside horse riding ($12 approx. for 5 hours) and volunteer opportunities. Souvenirs and food can also be purchased here. More information can be obtained from any of the tour operators found in Puerto Lopez.

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Member Rating 4 out of 5 on October 7, 2007

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