Italy: Rome to Venice and In-between in 15 Days

I believe in traveling with a loose framework. Call it "planned spontaneity" if you will. You pay so much to go to Europe, especially Italy, so why waste time in line? I think Rick Steves said you spend an hour to be in Europe on average. Time is money, even on vacation. So here is how I planned my last trip from Rome to Paris:

I looked into how best to geographically tour Italy within 16 days. Flights into Rome, Italy are the cheapest and easiest, so we started there. Based on sights that interested me and the times I had been there before, I was able to choose how many days to spend there. We chose: Rome (2 nights), Florence (3 nights), Siena (2 nights), Pisa (afternoon only), Lucca (1 night), Manarola (4 nights), Venice (3 nights), Lucerne (2 nights), and Paris (4 nights).

Museums:
Rome and Florence are overflowing with museums, so we chose a few. The Borghese Gallery in Rome (+(39) 06-328-101) requires reservations since it limits visitors to two hours only. A quick call and you are set up without a deposit. Also, the Sistine Chapel has super long lines in the morning, so we arrived at 2:30pm and had no line. Guided tours and reservations are also possible by fax (http://mv.vatican.va/3_EN/pages/z-Info/MV_Info_Servizi_Visite.html) directly through the Vatican museum.

Florence has an easy system (+(39) 055-294-883) to reserve. There is a fee of 3 euros per ticket, but some people wait 1-2 hours in the beating sun to see Michelangelo’s David (30 minutes inside is adequate to view). Show up 10 minutes before your wait time to the reservation only line and you're right inside. The absolute must reserves in Florence are: Accademia (David statue) and Uffizi Gallery. I also reserved at the Bargello and the Medici Chapels, but there were no lines, so we walked right in. Also in Florence, you can climb the duomo, but arrive early when it opens and with covered shoulders and no short shorts.

Milan: We took an early train from Venice to Milan to see Da Vinci's "Last Supper" Call (+39) 02-8942-1146, 9-6pm Italian time. Reservations required, fills up months in advance.

Quick Tips:

Hotels:
It's really good to know you have a place to stay each night. Some hostels require you call the day before to let them know when you will arrive. The one hostel in Cinque Terre, Ostello 5 Terre, is up a very steep road. I would have hated to climb up all the way with a backpack and be turned away. Plus, you instantly know you have a place to drop your bag and start enjoying the town immediately.

Vacation within a Vacation: We had a busy start with museums and sights in Rome and Florence. That is why I planned four nights in the Cinque Terre. No museums there - only hikes, swimming, views, sunsets, pesto, beer, and wine.

All this planning took time, but it was fun and exciting to read about where we were going. Plus, all the time we didn’t waste meant more time to explore, see the sights, and ultimately, relax.

Best Way To Get Around:

Trains:
We got from point to point via train. I was conscious of how long each train ride lasted in the planning process so we had relatively short rides most of the time. The Italian Train website, www.trenitalia.com/en/index.html, was a great resource in my planning. Pick the cities and day you're traveling. Then you'll see a list of train times, length of the train ride, any connections, and even price. If you don't know the day specifically, pick a day based on weekend or weekday and search. I knew the dates, so I compiled a table of trains from city to city and the times they left/arrived. I didn't want to simply show up at the train station and kill an hour or three in the heat with our backpacks while bums try to pickpocket us.

When we were there at the train station, we saw the posted schedule at each track that showed each train through that station. Looked like every Sunday, Monday, Tuesday, etc. had a certain schedule when the same trains came through. Also at the station, you can wait in line or try your hand at the simple automated machines with cash or credit card.

Tips:
1. If the machine asks you if want to pick a seat, say "YES." We said "No" and ended up with two seats together and the third far away from us.
2. Also, get there 10-15 minutes early to allow for any early leaving trains and to validate your ticket. Our Rome-Florence train left early and we had to exchange our ticket for the next train through the automated machine to get a seat on the next one.
3. Lastly, there are yellow boxes (about the size/height of a parking meter) at each track to stamp your ticket. I say stamp it no matter what, even if you don't think you have to. Unstamped tickets = fines.

Excellent hostel in the town of Manarola, one of the Cinque Terre's 5 towns. The bigger towns (Vernazza and Monterosso) have more options and nightlife. If you want to sleep late and party all night, stay in Monterosso. If you want a cheap, relaxing, safe, clean place to stay and meet a few people, stay here. We paid 23 euros per night for a bed in a six bed single sex dorm room.

Great website too: www.cinqueterre.net/ostello

They had everything. Washer dryer, rooftop patio, patio, made to order food, Internet, clean rooms and bathrooms, and friendly staff. I made reservations on the Internet, and it confirmed quickly with their list of rules. They give you the same list of rules when you arrive, which is fine because it doesn't allow punks to stay and ruin your relaxation. We had to be back by midnight, which was OK since the Cinque Terre closes up early in most of the towns.

 

We would hear the bell from the church ring at 7am, and we were out getting breakfast and hiking by 9 or 10am. There was a 10-4pm lockout, but you wouldn't want to be there during the day; you would want to explore the 5 towns. It's a great place to drop your bags and enjoy the day.

They also give you a lock for a 5 euro deposit which you get back when you return the lock. It's a big locker for an entire backpack. It's located at top of hill, so be prepared for steep climb. Great views too.

If you want to choose a hotel in Rome that has robes and slippers for you, this is not for you. But if you want a clean, safe, quiet place to stash your bags in a great location, stay here. Based on this type of traveler, I chose the highest rating.

Remember, it is impossible to get good and cheap rooms that are NOT next door to the train station in a lot of European towns. Also, hotels near the Spanish Steps typically run 150-200 euros per night to start.

Hotel Rosetta (www.rosettahotel.com) doesn't have to best website, but it is all correct. It is about a 10-15 minute walk to the main train station, Rome Termini. There is a subway station close to the hotel (200 yards from Via Cavour stop), but I decided to walk with my pack rather than figure out the subways. Vacations are times to see everything above ground anyhow.

It's two blocks from the main road that takes you north to Piazza Venezia and looking south you are less than 5 minutes walking to the Colosseum. We walked everywhere from here. We left in the morning and didn't return until evening generally.

I made the reservation over the phone in about two minutes. The room had a queen bed and a single bed, which was their triple room, for 95 euros per night. Booking direct always seems better for the smaller hotels in Europe. The bathroom was European - sink, toilet, curtain, and shower - all in that order in about 10 feet.

We buzzed the door and were let into the courtyard of residences. We paid when we left and there were no problems whatsoever. The room was cleaned when we were gone and there were no disturbances besides active Roman nightlife outside the window. The location was my favorite part of it all.

I would stay there again no doubt.

Casa Rabatti is run by a Florentine woman, Marcella, who you just want to hug all the time. She lives there I believe and keeps up the rooms and bathrooms herself. She speaks a little English, but will go on talking to you in Italian also. Funny thing is you start to understand what she is saying, and then you can't remember what language you are supposed to speak.

We paid 75 euros each night and had a triple room. I booked it over email: casarabatti@inwind.it. I think she charges about 25 euros per bed in most situations.

It was about a 10-15 minute walk from the train station and about a 5 minute walk to the central market. The room was huge with a sofa and table. We invited Marcella in for a glass of wine. There was a clean bathroom down the hall with a shower and toilet.

This was a great place to leave our bags, feel safe, and come in whenever we wanted to sleep. We would see Marcella in the morning and she was very pleasant and always smiling. More details in Rick Steves guidebook, but the email is all you need.

Would stay there again definitely. No hotel type hassels - just a few rooms in this sweet lady's home. Quick response over email also.

Siena is a great Tuscan town that isn't too big or too small. This hotel was about a 5-7 minute walk from the main bus stop and about a 5 minute walk from Il Campo (Arriving by train leaves you walking up a huge hill-cab/bus might be better.

This hotel had about a dozen rooms and three bathrooms in the hall (some rooms have a bathroom in the room). The owners are fantastic and sweet. During the afternoon they all gather round the common room and may even play the accordion for you.

We stayed here in this great location for 90 euros a night for a triple room. We booked over email months in advance for a stay in May. They actually required me to send them a personal check via mail to confirm. They emailed me when they received it and returned the check to me when I arrived and paid - cash only.

Clean rooms, close to the action, friendly staff and fun balcony to enjoy breakfast on. Would stay there again if I returned to Siena.

Website: www.albergobernini.com/index.html
E-mail: hbernin@tin.it (quick responses)

Albergo Doni was a great find in a great location. Venice is super expensive since everything is brought in by boat.

We paid 120 euro for a basic triple room with a canal view and breakfast. The toilet was across the hall and the shower was downstairs one flight. We were on the fourth floor and would look down on the gondoliers in the early evening. They would sing their songs "Ciao Venezia, Ciao! Ciao! Ciao!" They passed by a few times singing each evening so we felt like we did not need to take the gondola ride because we were already serenaded!

We were able to come and go as we pleased through the locked door. A night attendent would buzz us in at night. The rooms were clean, the breakfast was good and we could walk 2 minutes to get to St. Mark's Square.

We felt very central and therefore fancy for a great price. I reserved over email 4-5 months in advance. I would either stay there again or choose a place by the Rialto.

Website: www.albergodoni.it
E-mail: albergodoni@libero.it

This hostel was one of the most hotel like ones I've ever seen. They had food for purchase, but I always eat elsewhere. The hostel was huge -140 beds- and within the city walls of Lucca. It was about a 10 minute walk from the train station through town.

I booked one night through www.hostels.com, because I do not think you can book directly. But when I needed to change the reservation from a double to a triple with bath, I sent them an email (address below). They responded quickly and in great English.

We had reserved a triple room with bathroom for 70 euros, but they put us in a room for six people with a promise that they would not put anyone else in our room. They held to it. It was clean, there was lots of space and the bathroom was nice too. There were lockers for your things in the room also.

We went in the third week in May on a Wednesday and it was quiet. It wasn't full at all. I could see that with so much space, you could get big groups of kids/noise in high season - always a hostel risk however. We were simply stopping through on the way to the Cinque Terre.

Staff were friendly and they were sure to subtract the deposit amount I already paid online for reserving in advance.

Email: info@ostellolucca.it
www.ostellolucca.it

This was our favorite sandwich shop in all of Italy. Something about the bread and sandwich combinations were to die for. This small sandwich counter in Florence is just a few blocks south of the duomo (and two blocks North of Piazza della Signoria) off Via Calzaiuoli.

As you walk the main street Calzaiuoli, on an east side street, Via Cimatori, you will see happy sandwich eating and wine sipping customers. For 5 euros, you can have a sandwich and glass of wine and stroll around or stand and chat. The choice of wine is plentiful and tasty.

We would always want a second sandwich after the first and ended up eating there three times in three days.

The brothers that ran the shop spoke wonderful English and were very happy to talk with us about Florence and America.

The are open every day from 8-8:30pm. I will go back for sure. Definitely a welcome break from the mundane ham and cheese sandwich on baguette.

The Cinque Terre is a national park with a protected marine area on the western coast of Italy between La Spezia and Genoa. We visited for four nights in May 2007 and considered it our "vacation within a vacation." It consists of five towns, each in its own mountainside ravine, four of which have water access. Some have beaches, some just deep water. All are beautiful.

There are the four main hikes linking each of the five towns along the coast, and the views are breathtaking. Some hikes are up and down, others are a cake walk, but all are unique.

To hike, you can buy a day pass, but we bought a 3 day pass to hike and train all we wanted for 72 hours for 18 euros. The money goes to maintain the trails so it was well spent.

I recommend hiking early while it is still cool out and few loud college kids hiking from the biggest town Monterosso al Mare. There are many other trails that go all over, but we did not attempt these. We hiked in the morning, then lunched, then went for a swim. There are no facilities or water on the four trails, so bring some water. Also, the longest trail took us 1h 45min. One trail had a sign to a free beach, but it looked pretty dodgy.

When you buy the hiking pass, you get a map of all the trails. Also, they really do check these at the start of the trail head. The trails are well marked with a red and white stripe and are also well maintained. Most hikes are good for a variety of abilities, however Monterosso-Vernazza and Vernazza-Corniglia are the steepest with many ups and downs.

Also, Corniglia has 400+ steps from the train station to the town. So consider coming from Vernazza to Corniglia instead of starting at the Corniglia train station. There is also a bus that links the station to the town and bypasses those steps.

Wear good shoes, sunscreen, and swimsuit for when you finish. Rick Steves Guidbooks has a great page on each hike and town. Read before you go or take a copy with you.

We stopped in Pisa on our way to Lucca. We dropped out bags at the train station and walked over to the Field of Miracles. Everything there leans a little. It was a great stop through for a few hours.

We arrived around noon and immediately set out to the yellow building on the other side of the tower to buy tickets to climb the tower. They had flat screens telling what times were available and how many spaces were left, since only 25 or so can climb every 15-30 minutes. It was super easy to get a ticket. Although it was 15 euros, it was well worth it. We walked around the other sights, but we had had our fill of duomo's at this point in our trip and did not venture inside.

We had about and hour and a half to wait, so we had lunch down the street. Then we had to return to the ticket area and lock up our purses. They only let you take a camera basically.

The climb was pretty quick and circular. The view from the top was fantastic. We looked out onto the somewhat large city of Pisa and thought of how ancient the tower was. The guard let us have 10-15 minutes at the almost top, then again at the top. Then they hustled us back down again. It was plenty of time.

Apparently, the tower started to lean almost immediately upon construction. So the history behind it was interesting on how they waited, then built, then waited, then built again.

When I got back, my friends were surprised they let people climb it. It was being made more stable for years (it kind of worked). When we were at the top, we jumped up and down hoping to make it lean more.

Overall a worth while stopover to break up a train trip.

I had read about this medieval town with beautiful towers that was sort of frozen in time since the 14th Century. San Gimignano had been prosperous, but was then left off the main trade route from Siena to Florence and fell into poverty and plague by the 1300s. I remember this well because now it is a popular tourist stop through making it prosperous again - because of its poverty stricken times! The towers date back to the 11th and 13th century.

We took a bus from Florence to Poggibonsi and caught another bus to San Gimignano. It was our lunch stop on the way to Siena.

We dropped our bags at the tourist information office for free, but we had to pick them up by 1pm since they were closing for siesta hours.

We found some food and wine and set off to find a fantastic view of the Tuscan hillside. The towers and town square were quaint and picturesque.

We spent a couple of hours there, which was plenty. The overall view of all the towers, called a "Medieval Manhattan" by some, as you drive up to the town were the best postcard views.

I would recommend going if you are not going to other small Tuscan towns. It is a good stop to break up the business or Rome, Florence, and Venice.

www.sangimignano.com

With only two nights in Rome, I had to geographically plan which sights to see and on which day. I was reading articles from the local newspapers saying that the lines for the Vatican Museum/Sistine Chapel were so long and that the hours were too short for the number of people visiting the sacred site.

I looked on the Vatican's own website, http://mv.vatican.va/3_EN/pages/MV_Home.html, and found it easy to navigate. I looked at the calendar on the site and saw it was to be closed for Ascension Thursday - the day I originally wanted to go. So I changed plans and also made a back up plan.

Back up: I made a reservation for a guided tour given by the Vatican Museum themselves, not an outside group. I booked it via FAX (http://mv.vatican.va/3_EN/pages/z-Info/MV_Info_Servizi_Visite.html). They did not respond for a few weeks, but they did fax back a confirmation number and time of tour (3 tours/day). This reservation required no deposit and would have allowed us to skip the line and go right up to the window.

Also before the trip, I read that a great time to go the the Sistine Chapel is between 2-3pm. The three of us took a cab to the entrance and walked right in - no line - around 230pm. We had a guidebook of our own (Rick Steves) and did not rent the audio guides because one has to walk all the way back to the ticketing area to return the headphones after viewing the Sistine Chapel, which is at the end of the Vatican Museum.

Instead, we followed the sign marked "Tour Groups only" in the far right back corner of the Sistine Chapel. We followed the crowds directly into St. Peter's Basilica around 4:30pm. Mass started around 5pm and we watched the procession that was lit up by the wonderful light beams through the basilica's dome.

The timing of it all was perfect. I had been before and the Chapel can have you packed in like sardines. A lot of people, including tour groups, try to get it done first thing in the morning and end up waiting 1-2 hours before even setting foot inside. With a little research, you can save a lot of time and have that time to putz around carefree in Rome.

I found a website that does Tuscany tours on a modern Vespa near Siena, Italy. I thought of how to steal this idea and work it into my travels. I found a great "Drive through the Chianti Countryside" map with sights from the National Geographic Italy tour book. I changed it to a "Scoot through the Chianti Countryside". It was hard to find journals about renting scooters, so I was determined to make one after my trip.

We rented two scooters for 80 euros (not actual Vespas) from Perozzi Rental (Via del Gazzani 16, www.perozzi.it, tel 0577 288387, near main bus stop in Siena). We reserved the scoots the evening before and they simply asked for the drivers license and if we had scooted before.

We took off into the Chianti Region from Siena. We took route SS408 (continued on in a loop to SS222) and made stops in:

1. San Gusme (the cutest walled town you ever did see).
2. Castello di Brolio (owned by the Ricasoli family since the 12th Century).
3. Lunched in Badia a Coltibuono (11th Century abbey now a restaurant/wine cellar).
4. Scooted through Radda in Chianti.
5. Stopped in Castellina in Chianti. A great wine tasting at Mazzei winery, www.mazzei.it, proved to be fantastic and I brought two bottles of wine and olive oil home (termed "scooter wine" and "scooter oil"- thus very precious). My sister was my passenger, so she tasted all eight wines! Please don't drink and scoot!

The countryside was fantastic. The roads were well maintained with many curves and many cyclists were present as well. It was a beautiful scoot that lasted all day, about 50 miles. We went in mid May, and wore jeans and tees. It was perfect weather and a perfect day. I think being a Tuesday was great and there was hardly any traffic and no crazy drivers. I owned a scoot before this trip so I had recent scoot time under my belt. I would do it again in a heartbeat. Take an international drivers license and a credit card to rent, and a back pack to carry back your wine.

We took a lot of advice/tips from Rick Steves. One such was the Pub Crawl in Venice. The chiccheti they serve at some bars are tasty. Most of the food is fish or fish based, so one friend was not so excited about this. However, we had drinks and chiccheti, and it was a great change from the usual sit down dinner thing.

Most of the bars we went to were in the rialto area. One we found by pure luck and turned out to have a great nighttime view of the rialto bridge. This was fantastic!