Prague for Pennies

1. Taking a boat down the Vltava River at night.
2. Do the King's Walk, starting from the castle, over the Charles Bridge, all the way to Old Town Square. Be aware that you'll be passing by hundreds of the requisite souvenir shops and concert hawkers, so if you can't stand the inevitable commercialism of Prague, you can always take the street car up to the castle and then, it's all downhill from there!
3. Visit the Jewish Ghetto and especially the Jewish Cemetery. You will be moved even if you are not of the faith.
4. Enjoy a night view of the "City of a Hundred Spires" from several vantage points, including Castle Square or Old Town Square Clock Tower. For a panoramic night view of the the Charles Bridge, visit it from the farthest end of Kampa Island.
5. The gates of the castle complex stay open long after the museum and cathedral within have closed. Why not visit those two sites later in the day and then continue to wander the complex in the post-tourist off hours?

Quick Tips:

1. Have your hotel call a cab for you. Some will even call one to pick you up at the airport. There are too many cab "scams" going on to know who is trustworthy. If you do hail your own cab, make sure it's "registered" (AAA Taxis is one , 420-2-331-13-311) and then agree on a price to your destination before you take off.
2. Dress in layers. It may be warm in the sun, but the minute you hit shade or the sun goes down, the temperature drops significantly.
3. You may need more cash than you think. Some of the smaller family-run establishments still take the non-traceable "cash only". Check first before you eat or buy. If you get in a jam, they love American dollars and will take them (but your "exchange rate" won't be so great!).
4. Take the time to learn 5-10 essential Czech or German words, like "restroom", "thank you", "where is..."
5. Make a photocopy of a menu translator and put it in your pocket. That way, you won't have to guess at what you're ordering and you won't be afraid to eat in a place that serves mostly locals.

Best Way To Get Around:

Prague is extremely walkable (even a king could do it!) with most of the major sites and areas on a East/West axis. The Vltava River bisects the East side (train station, Old Town, New Town)and the West side (Castle and Little Quarter). Taxis are plentiful, but read my tips on cabs above. There is a very reliable tram/metro system that is accessible and cheap, but not so central to the historic sites. Buy your ticket from machines in the station. Don't forget to validate it when you get on the tram. The metro closes at midnight.

The back of this hotel is situated on one of the most beautiful and quiet squares in Old Town. The square itself has buildings dating back to the 10th century and has been recently renovated to include shops and cafes. In fact, building no. 639 has porticoes, scraffiti and frescoes dating from the Renaissance!

The front entrance of the hotel is steps from historic Old Town Square, so actually you are near the action, but not right in it. The rooms are spacious, insulated and well lit, which is unusual in a town full of hotel rooms with heavy oak antiques. Breakfast is included and can be served in your room. The very professional staff speaks English and are eager to help with concert tickets, cab hires, dinner reservations, etc. Their web page is www.ungelt.cz; e-mail is hotel@ungelt.cz">

If location is everything, then this little hotel ("At the Red Glass") is more than your average two star establishment. Situated on the tiny island below the Charles Bridge, the hotel gives you the exclusivity of those next to (and above) the bridge, but it is quieter, since it lacks the constant foot traffic of the main thoroughfare. Many of the Baroque homes that line the square originate to the 16th and 17th centuries. In fact, the hotel itself dates back to 1623.

The history of the island is quite mysterious and colorful since many superstitious Bohemians repeat stories of Headless Laura or devils sitting by the local mill. No worries though. All 30 of those saints on the Charles Bridge will keep you safe.

Our sleeping room was small, but cheery. The beds were firm with soft duvets and down pillows. Each room has a TV, minibar, and private bath with plenty hot water and decent pressure. The staff speaks English and is more than happy to assist with reservations, cab hire, etc. I would stay here again. Their web page is link.

This restaurant is not much different than many of the others in Old Town Square. We stopped here because the service seemed livelier and they served exclusively Budweiser (the real "budweiser", the one the American beer is named after). Like many of the cafes in the square, if you're outside, you have a great view of the action (including the clock tower). The food is unremarkable, other than it's a good deal for the decent meal you get. I ordered soup, 1/4 roast chicken with fries, and apple strudel and paid less than $10.00. Throw in a pint of beer for about a buck and you have a meal that will sustain you until late in the evening.

Upon first glance Kampa Park may seem like a transplanted California/Nouvelle Cuisine type establishment. You cannot miss the view of their Moet & Chandon umbrellas from the Charles Bridge. Situated in one of the best locations in Prague (on Kampa Island right on the banks of Charles River), this restaurant is trendy but offers much substance to go with its style.

The style comes from the simple, yet sophisticated decor (without a bar scene, or even a bar!) and the patrons who look like models, rock stars and international businessfolk (check out the celebrity photos near the restroom).

The substance comes from the attentive and knowledgable wait staff and finely prepared interpretations of local standards. For example, in a town that abounds with restaurants serving fresh game, my venison in a red wine sauce was tender, balanced and not gamey in the least. It came with a side order of "gnocci", which was really a lighter and more petite version of the Bohemian dumplings. Our dessert was quite extraordinary ... a dense chocolate cake that was not overly sweet. Our only complaint was the coffee (quite a mediocre tasting cup).

The setting can't be beat and if you'd like one of the popularheat-lamped tables on the river bank terrace, you must reserve. Their web site is: http://www.kampapark.com/new/index.html .

The castle, its towers and St. Vitus Cathedral, looming majestically over the red roofs of Prague, may be the city's most recognizable landmark. It so mesmerized Kafka that one of his greatest works is devoted to its mystery. The entire complex, which could arguably be referred to as "the Castle" is ground zero for Prague's political, cultural and economic history. The grounds/gardens are free, but visiting the major sites and buildings will cost you. Start by taking Tram 22 up to Castle Hill (unless you want to walk the King's Walk) to the must see sites on the grounds.

As you enter the area you'll see the palace guards (less severe than those of Buckingham, but equally as silent) at their post, wearing uniforms designed by the same costume designer that worked on the film "Amadeus". Past them is an enormous courtyard where you might even see an unassuming "changing of the guards" ceremony, if you're there on the hour. Make a left at the Baroque period Matthias Gate and you're in a second courtyard that contains a famous fountain that once was the source of all drinking water for the entire complex. The third courtyard holds the majestic gothic cathedral, named for Prague’s patron saint. Once inside, look left and linger at Alfons Mucha’s beautiful stained glass window, Allegory of the Slavs. Other sites to awe would be the bejeweled Chapel of St. Wenceslas, which you can only see from the railing at the doorway. In a corner of the chapel is a 7-lock door that leads to the Czech Crown Jewels. After seeing how many jewels adorn the chapel, you can only imagine the sight of the crown. To the right of the altar is the two ton silver tombstone of St. John of Nepomuk (imagine having to polish that!).

Insider's Tip: There are usually long lines to enter the cathedral. When you buy your tickets to see the sites, rent an audio guide. Not only will it give you commentary on what you're veiwing, the rental permits you to enter the cathedral through the exit door, thus bypassing the ever-growing queue to get in.

The other must-see site is the Golden Lane, a short street of colorful fairytale-like cottages that once were homes to various goldsmiths and alchemists. Unfortunately, it is nearly impossible to see the entire lane unobstructed by tourists, so enjoy each dwelling one by one (they’re souvenir shops now), especially number 22, where Kafka lived with his sister in 1917 (and when he was supposedly inspired to write the aforementioned workThe Castle.

Alphons Mucha was unbelieveably prolific during his lifetime. His work visually defined the Art Nouveau movement in Europe. Mucha was also a saavy businessman who found no shame in taking commission for commercial use or mass production of his artwork (check out his advertising posters for Moet & Chandon, Job Rolling Papers and Nestle). This collection is lovingly displayed in airy white rooms with lots of room to maneuver and step back. There's also a continuous short film on Mucha's life at the back of the museum and a fine gift shop on the way out. If you are interested in the Art Nouveau movement, this is a must-see.

This shady spot yields a stunning and eerie sight. Clearly there wasn't enough room for the more than 100,000 bodies that have been buried here for the last 400 years. The cramming of the burial plots was more than symbolic of the pitiful amount of space alloted to the Jewish population of Prague for living and dying. When you see the results in the cemetery, the effect is astonishing and touching. Estimated to be 12 layers deep, the cemetery holds about 12,000 headstones, many of which are carved with reliefs (now decaying due to air pollution) indicating the profession of the deceased (look for scissors representing a tailor). In high season, you can't spend much time lingering as the flow of the crowd pushes you through.

Prague's history is full of drama and who better to bring it to you than Vladimir, who is a full time local actor (or his business partner, the director). Vladimir is actually a colorful actor that gets small parts in all international movie productions such as Mission Impossible, Dragon Heart, From Hell and A Knight's Tale (he's the one that bought Heath Ledger's very first trophy). Meet him at noon in front of the clock tower for the Prague Castle tour which includes a ride on the tram. Vladimir will take you into the castle complex where you'll see the changing of the guard, then to the Cathedral where he'll describe in detail the coronation of the king. You'll visit the various castle towers, see the torture chamber and the famous Golden Lane.

Meet Vladimir at 2:45 in front of the clock tower for the Best of Old Town and Jewish Quarter. After telling you about the Old Town Square, he'll spend a good deal of time on the life of Franz Kafka, Prague's famous native son, as you make your way into the well preserved Jewish quarter. The tour of the Jewish quarter does not include a visit to the cemetary (but you can easily see it afterwards on your own).

As far as European "squares" go, Prague's rivals that of Venice and Siena. As you enter off of the Karlova, the scale of the space isn't immediately apparent. In fact, where the crowds are, for example, near the Astronomical Clock and Old Town Hall, isn't even officially the square, but, rather, the "Little Square". But do stop here in front of the clock at the top of the hour to get your "That's it?" moment over with as you see the little figurines parade once around in their quick morality play. Actually the facade of the clock is quite impressive as it not only still tells date and time, but month and astronomical sign.
Farther into the square proper you'll be at ground zero for most of the what has happened during Prague's tumultuous history. Markets, revolutions and executions all took place here. Now you'll find cafes serving uninspired fare (and cheap beer) and crowds clustered in groups (however the space is so enormous it's able to absorb the hordes). If you stand in the middle of the square, for example, near the Jan Hus monument, and look around, you'll see what everyone who goes to Prague raves about: the existence, side-by-side, of every conceiveable period of well preserved architecture in the surrounding buildings: gothic, baroque, rococco, and art nouveau.