When in Rome...

We spent five wonderful nights in Rome, one of the most thrilling cities in the world. Although we spent five nights, it was nearly not enough. I would have loved to spend two weeks exploring Rome and making a few day trips here and there. Rome is truly an experience all by itself and definitely not to be missed on a trip to Europe.

Quick Tips:

1. If you plan on staying in Rome for 3-5 nights, you may want to invest in the Roma Pass which costs 20 euros. This can be purchased at the Termini Train station or any other valid retailer. The Roma Pass lasts for 3 days when activated and gives you free entry to the first two sights and discounts on the others. The pass is good for unlimited free travel on the bus and metro system within Rome. Tip: Go to the Colosseum/Palatine Hill and Borghese Gallery first because they are the most expensive of the places included on the pass. You will break even after one day!

2. Keep your belongings with you all the time. Pickpockets are prevalent throughout Rome. I didn't have any trouble but it's always a good idea to avoid seedy areas and keep an eye on your bags when in crowded areas.

3. Take advantage of Italy's Culture Week, which gives you free admission to state-run museums and archaeological sites. Dates are announced in February and the dates are usually sometimes in April-June. 2007 date was from May 12 to 20. It's a huge bargain and easy on your pockets!

4. Make reservations for private galleries and tours before you leave for Italy or have your hotelier arrange it for you. It will save you time and stress.

5. Always carry a bottle of water with you. Much of Rome is open space and the sun won't be forgiving to you.

6. If you're flying into Ciampino, save money by taking the COTRAL bus to Metro Stop Anagnina (1 euro). The bus station is right outside the airport. Then take the metro to your official destination (another 1 euro). It's much faster than you would expect!

7. If taking a taxi within Rome, make sure you agree on a price with the driver before you get in!

8. Avoid over-priced restaurants that are often scattered around major tourist attractions. The further away from the tourist attractions, the cheaper it is to eat.

9. Travel in the shoulder-season! May is a great time!

10. Avoid wearing shorts and opt for casual pants, skirts or capris!

Best Way To Get Around:

Rome's metro system is highly efficient and easy to get around. There are two main lines - A and B. If you're not keen on the metro system, you can simply take the bus which is just as efficient and perhaps a bit more scenic. You can transfer from a bus to the metro or vice versa using the same ticket for as long as it is valid (usually 75 minutes). It costs 1 euro to purchase a 75-minute ticket.

Tickets can be purchased at tobacconists, train stations, metro stations, and the supermarket (SMA chain). There are several types of tickets ranging from 75-minute limit to day passes, 3-day passes, weekly and monthly passes.

We booked a twin private room at the Beehive’s Acacia Apartment. The apartment is on the 5th floor (I believe) of a building but there is an elevator for those of you non-stairs fans! The Acacia has four private rooms but all occupants share a single bathroom, which is spacious, clean, and bright. There is also a shared kitchen that is stocked with condiments and utensils free for everyone to use. There is a MAC computer with free Internet that is to be shared between everyone along with various things like irons, hairdryers, etc. We paid 70 euros for our room per night (not per person), which is a steal because Rome is expensive when it comes to lodging and for a self-serve apartment, you won’t find the same price anywhere else.

We booked exactly three months in advance for our 5-night stay in mid-May 2007. When you check in, you must go to the main Beehive facility, which is on Via Marghera 8. The Beehive is extremely popular with travellers so it is really recommended you book in advance using their website. They also have two other apartments, as well as dorm and private rooms in their main building. All places are within walking distance of Termini train station (5 minutes). A lot of people say that Termini is not a good area but it’s great if you want to stay near a “hub” and be able to travel with ease without worrying about buses or whatnot. There are plenty of restaurants and other facilities. The Beehive provides you with an awesome map that is so easy to read!

Our room was comfortable and even though we had booked a twin room, there was an extra bed, which we used to lay out our clothes. In our room, there was a small table, two chairs, nightstands, a huge armoire (with mirrors in the doors), and everything you would expect. Our room had a balcony that was part of the kitchen balcony but no one overstepped their bounds to sit outside our room. I am not sure if the other rooms had balconies as well. I really enjoyed my stay at the Beehive apartments and I would absolutely recommend it to anyone looking for a true Roman experience. Skip the regular hotel and buffet style and opt for a clean, simple apartment where you’re likely to meet fellow travellers (old and young alike)!

This place is right next to the Pantheon and a bargain if you want to try the famous gelato. I had just bought myself a small cup from a nearby gelateria and I loved it so much that I decided to try another place, this time, with different flavours.

I believe I paid 2 euros for a cup and I had the chocolate and caramel and it was delicious and mouth-watering. This is great especially on a hot day which was in my case (30 C!).

Gelato is now my favourite kind of ice cream and I sorely miss Italy due to that!

A gelateria near the Pantheon and undoubtedly one of the best places to get your gelato in Rome. I decided that I'd give gelato a try and this was my first stop. I paid 2 euros for a decent sized cup with coconut and chocolate flavours and believe me...it was heavenly. Two euros, in my opinion, is a steal when you look at all the other gelaterias around Rome (where they may charge you 4 euros upwards for a small-sized cup!).

Make sure you stop by this place after visiting the Pantheon or Trevi Fountain!

After taking many photographs and taking a nice stroll through Palatine Hill, we decided to walk over to the Colosseum, which is essentially next-door! On the way to Colosseum, we saw quite a few gladiators walking up to tourists and asking them if they wanted a photograph. Don’t fall for this trick – they’ll con you in taking a photograph with them and after that, they’ll demand you to pay 5-10 euros just for that. If they approach you, just simply say “No thank you” and walk away quickly.

With our Roma Pass, we were able to bypass the endless lines and get direct entry. It is a bit overwhelming because this place is the most popular tourist sight. It wasn’t what I expected for I expected gleaming white marble columns and not brown crumbling posts. The Colosseum is much larger than you would think it would be and it was the home of brutal gladiator battles, public executions, dramas and athletic games. Even though the Colosseum is in a state of disarray, you can really step back in time to thousand of years ago and see what Rome was really about. We visited the Colosseum in the late morning, which wasn’t probably the greatest idea because the sun came out in full effect and we could definitely feel the heat. If you’re a shutterbug, you might want to check out the place during night time (of course, it’ll be shut down) to get great photographs of the Colosseum lit by surrounding lights.

It is worthwhile to visit both Palatine Hill and Colosseum in one day, or even a half-day. Wear comfortable walking shoes and bring water and lots of sunscreen. Both places are not shaded so you’ll be under the wrath of the hot sun. To get there by metro, take Line B and get off at station Colosseo. Another tip is to avoid any of the street sellers, especially food. They are ridiculously over-priced and not gentle on your pockets. Bring your own food and water if you expect to spend a good portion of the day travelling. If you can’t fathom the idea of bringing your own food, eat at a restaurant that is a good distance away from both places because the prices will be cheaper and more fulfilling.

If you’re wondering what the Galleria Borghese is, it’s a renowned art gallery situated in the lovely property of Villa Borghese in Rome. It is owned by one of Italy’s royal families – the Borghese family.

We visited this gallery in the late afternoon after visiting both the Colosseum and Palatine Hill. Reservations are required in order to visit the gallery so we booked our reservation two months ahead of time for a 5pm reservation. You are required to pick up your tickets 30 minutes prior to your reservation. Galleria Borghese is part of the Roma Pass (see my review of Palatine Hill for more details) so admission was free for us, not to mention, the reservation fee of 2 euros was also waivered. Regular admission is 6.50 euros plus a mandatory reservation fee of 2 euros for a total of 8.50 euros. Reservations can be made online with their official website or over the phone.

I really enjoyed the intimate nature of the Borghese Gallery. The rooms are tastefully decorated with gorgeous sculptures and paintings. If you’re a fan of Bernini’s works, this is the place to go – I’ve never seen so many Bernini sculptures in my life. My particular favourite had to be Apollo & Daphne because of its intricate details. The fact that only 200 people are allowed in at one time makes it crowd-free and allows the visitor to not feel overwhelmed. Photography is banned so don’t think about taking any pictures.

The grounds of Villa Borghese are lovely with the manicured lawns and beautiful stairs. There are often people milling about admiring the property. I actually preferred this art gallery to the others that I’ve visited such as the Louvre. Don’t get me wrong, the Louvre is stunning but at the same time, the crowds are massive and overwhelming. If you include this place as one of the first two sights for the Roma Pass along with Colosseum and Palatine Hill, you’ve practically broke even and there’s still three days worth of metro/bus rides! I would absolutely recommend Galleria Borghese to anyone visiting Rome – it’s a beautiful estate and completely worth your time.

To get back to the metro station, take Bus 491 on the edge of the Villa Borghese property and it will let you off at Spagna metro station where you can transfer to your preferred station.

If you’re visiting Rome, you cannot miss the Colosseum as well as Palatine Hill. This review will focus on Palatine Hill and there is a separate review for the Colosseum itself. If you plan your time effectively, you can visit both in half a day, which is what most people tend to do because both places are right next to each other. We had bought the Roma Pass the day before at Termini station, which costs €20. This gives someone free access to the first two sights part of the pass (go to the two most expensive places first) and later on, discounts on the rest of the sights. It also gives you free access to the public transport system (bus/metro) within Rome for three days, which is how long the pass is good for, once activated at the first sight you go to. A combination Colosseum + Palatine Hill ticket costs €11 which isn’t cheap compared to other places.

Tip: Go to Palatine Hill first because there are barely any lines to get a ticket. When we showed up to Palatine Hill, there was no one in line. Palatine Hill is absolutely beautiful and a great spot to take photographs. The grounds are lush with greeneries, orange groves and beautiful flowers. It is said that Palatine Hill was where Romulus decided he would build the city of Rome. This place was the home of important Romans such as senators and politicians along with their families. The wife of Emperor Augustus, Livia, was said to occupy a house in Palatine Hill as well. You’ll be able to watch archaeologists work in certain dig sites around Palatine Hill, giving you an up-and-close feel of Ancient Rome. Estimated time to walk around Palatine Hill is 1-2 hours depending on a person’s taste and speed but it may be less than that for certain people. Of both Colosseum and Palatine Hill, I much preferred Palatine Hill because of its beauty and simple nature. The ruins are absolutely amazing and more personal because it was where the affluent people resided thousand of years ago!

I would absolutely recommend Palatine Hill to anyone, especially families who have children. The crowds are smaller, the grounds more kinder and there will be nooks and crannies for children to enjoy. When you’re done roaming Palatine Hill, just head on over to Colosseum or just stroll the busy streets surrounding both sights.

The Roman Pantheon is one of Rome’s most preserved buildings. It was originally a temple and later used as a church. The Pantheon is within walking distance to Trevi Fountain and along with the Spanish Steps and Triton Fountani, these places can serve as a good half-day’s worth of activities. Inside the Pantheon is a great eyehole (“occulus”) and several tombs and monuments worthy of your attention. The most notable of these tombs is that of the great Renaissance painter – Raphael. If I can recall reading Dan Brown’s “The Da Vinci Code”, Raphael is not actually buried here – he’s buried in another church elsewhere. I am not sure if that is actually true but it’s a cool place to visit if you’re a fan of the Da Vinci Code book. Make sure you stop by one of the awesome gelato places near the Pantheon – they’re probably the best you can get in Rome (check out my reviews on a few of these)! Admission to the Pantheon is free and opening hours are as the follow: M-Sa (9am to 7:30pm), Su (9am to 5:30pm).

If you plan on doing some people-watching and don’t know where to start, the Spanish Steps is your best bet. It’s full of crowds and colourful people and there will always be action going on. The steps are located in Piazza di Spagna and can be accessed by metro via Spagna station (Line A) followed by a short walk to the steps. There is exactly 138 steps but there are good chances that it’ll be over-crowded and completely full of people sitting on the steps enjoying the action. At the bottom of the steps, there is a pretty fountain sculpted by Bernini’s father. Many people opt to sit by the edge of the fountain and you may be surprised to find some people taking a dip in the water (although I am sure it is illegal to do that)!

Tip: There are quite a few street vendors roaming the area around the Spanish steps so be on the lookout for pickpockets and aggressive sale tactics. Try to avoid the over-priced restaurants and cafés and opt to bring your own food. If you have deep pockets, there are plenty of designer shops (Versace, etc.) with gorgeous items for sale.

St. Peter’s Basilica (Basilica di San Pietro) is the largest church in the world and it is within the walls of Vatican City. It is a good idea to combine both the Vatican Museums and St. Peter’s in one day because both places are within walking distance of each other. When you reach St. Peter’s by Via della Conciliazione, you will enter the great square which is surrounded by majestic tall columns.

Walking across the square leads you to the entrance of St. Peter’s Basicila in which you’re required to wait in line for a good deal of time. I spent about an hour in line under the hot blazing sun and it wasn’t pleasant at all. The line was more of like a funnel – there’s no order whatsoever and people constantly try to walk in front of you to reach security which is a bit of an ordeal. After passing through security, you walk on your left to go inside the church. There are many monuments and sculptures inside the church including the great Michelangelo’s “Pieta,” which is undoubtedly one of the greatest works of art. I learned in an art history class that Michelangelo was quite clever in terms of planning out that particular piece. In order for Mary to hold Jesus across her lap, he created massive folds under Jesus in order for Him to be supported without being overweight. Look closely at the details and you’ll be surprised! Admission inside the Basilica is free.

You can climb the massive dome of St. Peter’s (The Cupola) which requires you to climb many stairs, and it’s not a task for everyone. I didn’t get a chance to perform this feat due to time but it would have been awesome to experience one of Michelangelo’s last great works. It costs €4-€6 for the stairs/elevator to get to the dome. The Basilica is open from 9am to 7pm (6pm from October to March) and closed on Wednesdays for the papal audience.
If you’re not planning to visit the dome, the one thing you must do is visit the Papal Tombs which is near the line for the Cupola. It’s free of charge and you have the opportunity to walk among the tombs of many great popes including John Paul II. This is what we did instead and I am so glad that we didn’t miss it for the world. Whether you’re religious or not, you will have a feeling of awe and sadness at the same time. No photography is allowed down in the tombs out of respect for the deceased. I would absolutely recommend to anyone visiting Rome, especially after a visit to the Vatican Museums.

Tip: The square is open-concept and it is often very hot, especially in the afternoons. Bring water and a hat with you to beat the heat while waiting in line!

One thing in Rome that you cannot miss is the massive Trevi Fountain. It is essentially the largest fountain in Rome and certainly the most breathtaking. There is a legend that if you throw a coin in the fountain, you are ensured a speedy return to Rome and if you throw in two coins, you will have a happy marriage. Right in the centre of the fountain is the God of the Sea, Neptune, who is flanked by bas-reliefs named after mythological characters. To get to Trevi Fountain, take the metro (Line A) and get off at Spagna stop and (usually) follow the crowd that will go straight to Trevi. A common mistake with many unsuspecting tourists is that when you exit Spagna station, you will see Triton Fountain right in front of you. Many tourists mistakenly assume that it’s Trevi Fountain and be disappointed in the process. Just keep heading straight through the street and you will eventually be met with a huge crowd clamoring to get a seat in front of the fountain.

Rather than just taking photographs and moving on, sit with the crowds and take in the atmosphere surrounding you. It’s something that you will never forget when you leave Rome. Don’t forget to throw in a coin over your shoulder – you might come back to Rome sooner than later!

Triton Fountain was designed by Bernini and is located in Piazza Barberini, close to the Spagna metro stop (Line A) and not far from where Trevi fountain is. It is much smaller than its counterpart and certainly has far less crowds. Bernini sculpted four dolphins that all combine to form the base of the fountain, which is a shell, that holds up a realistic-looking Triton, god of the sea in Roman legends.

It may not be awe-inspiring as Trevi Fountain but there are good photo opportunities at this monument, especially if you don’t want to face the crowds at Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps. You can stop by this fountain on the way to the much-larger Trevi Fountain.

The Vatican Museums, located within the walls of Vatican City, has one of the most spectacular collections of art in the world and also the home to Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel. The Vatican Museums can be reached by metro (either Cipro Musei Vaticani or Ottaviano) or bus, or on foot, if you’re lucky to be staying in a hotel within walking distance of the museums. The museums are closed on Sundays and holidays except the last Sunday of the month, when admission is free. Keep in mind that these special Sundays are usually the most-packed ones. Opening hours vary by date but for the most part, it is open from 10am to 3:30pm.

Admission is € 13 for adults, € 8 euros for students (under 26 years) and children under the age of 14. It is free for children under 6 years and disabled people. For students, you must bring a valid piece of ID (i.e. a school student card or ISIC card).

The best times to go to the Vatican museums are in the afternoons and on Wednesdays. However, the museums take up a great portion of your time, especially if you’re keen on seeing everything. This may require you to wait in line before opening. We took the metro to Cipro Musei Vaticani and walked a short distance to the entrance and arrived there at 10am. They had already started to let people in but the line was massive! Luckily, the line moved quite fast and by the time it was 10:25am, we’d paid our admission. Some days, you may have to wait a few hours but we were lucky that day.

The collections are absolutely amazing and I’ve never seen so many Renaissance works of art. The Vatican Museums are truly not to be missed, especially the Egyptian collection! There are a few courtyards for tourists to relax but my favourite had to be the one prior to Sistine Chapel. There’s a lovely garden and fountain that provide people with great photo ops! Sistine Chapel is at the very end of the museums and certainly the most popular one. It’s over-crowded and sadly, there are people breaking the rules by taking photographs and videos of the frescoes which are a huge no-no. The guards are constantly shushing people and it can be very over-whelming in that atmosphere. If you want a picture, buy a postcard at the gift shop - it’s that simple. The Sistine Chapel is more beautiful in life and much larger than you would ever imagine it to be!

Overall, the Vatican Museums were one of the highlights of my trip to Italy. I would absolutely recommend it and if you can, try to get a tour guide for an even more personal experience!

Tip: No shorts/skirts above the knees and bare shoulders are allowed. Bring a pashmina shawl for easy cover-up – esp. if you’re entering religious sanctuaries!

Ways to get from/to Ciampino Airport, listed from the cheapest way to the most expensive:

1. COTRAL Bus/Metro: Ride one of the COTRAL buses outside the airport (€1) which transfers you to Anagnina Metro station. You can buy your ticket on-board. Take the metro (€1) to your final destination. Buses run every 30-40 minutes but if there is a large demand, they will send for a second bus to accomodate the travellers. TOTAL COST: €2.

2. Terravision: Direct bus from airport to Termini train station. You can buy tickets at the airport booths in Arrivals or book online. One-way ticket is €8, roundtrip €14.

3. Taxi: You can hop into a taxi outside Arrivals for a direct ride into Rome. It should cost between €30 and €40 depending on the time of the day. The taxi drivers usually allow up to 3-4 passengers in which the fare can be split.

4. Car: Not recommended because Rome is not an easy city to get around if you hire a car. If you must insist on driving a car, there are plenty of car rental companies inside the airport.

Other:
Transferring from Ciampino to Fiumicino Airport: Best option is to take the Schiaffini transfer which costs about €5 and should take no more than an hour.