Glimpsing Rome

Why would you not want to visit this city? So many layers of history and culture exist side by side, never mind the incredible food.

The narrow streets are a web of interesting finds waiting to be discovered, whether incredible churches or divine ice-cream. The main tourist sites will be extremely busy, but it's worth wandering to feel the city. Yes it's worth seeing the main sights - you can't miss seeing the Colosseum and St Peters, however, there are many more interesting sights such as San Clemente with three layers of history or the incredible mosaics of Santa Maria Maggiore. Then again drinking coffee in a square or eat slices of pizza at lunchtime are much more enjoyable without hordes of tourists lurking around, even if it means that you are not directly opposite the pantheon, and honestly you'll probably get better food cheaper. Get a feeling for Rome without the tourists hordes and you'll fall in love with the place - its bustle, its beauty and its history.

Quick Tips:

Rome is not pleasant in the heat - in fact it's worth avoiding in the summer -there are plenty of more pleasant activities in Italy in summer than baking in the oven of Rome.

Plan the things you really must see - things you are interested in. Don't plan to see the 400 churches of Rome if you have no interested in church architecture, you'll end up just completely fed-up. For me most ruins end up looking the same after an hour - so Palatine Hill was simply torture! And unless you plan to spend eternity here you'll never see everything. But allow time to explore and not just sight-hop around the city.

Food can end up expensive if you don't use a little bit of thought. It has to be said cafes and restaurants close to main tourist site tend to be expensive and average. And just a few minutes away you'll get a better meal cheaper.

Best Way To Get Around:

Rome is probably best explored on foot to really experience the city beyond the usual tourist sights and to see the many gems you'd miss otherwise, never mind the atmosphere of narrow streets and squares. So get a good map and comfy shoes!

The public transport system is centred around Termini in the north of the city with trains arriving here (including the train from Fiumicino airport), metro and buses. The metro system is limited to two lines A (red) and B (blue) and is not all that useful for sightseeing unless you are staying near a station. There are stops close to the Colosseum and the Vatican which are useful. It should be avoid at rush hour as it becomes a sardine tin that is hot and unpleasant. Also note the doors show no mercy in closing so don't get in their way. They do have the advantage over the buses of not getting stuck in traffic, however the bus network crosses the entire city and is useful to get to many sights out of the centre like the catacombs.

The metro, bus and tram system has an integrated ticketing system with several different types of tickets available. The BIT is the basic type which is valid for 75 minutes after being validated and allows unlimited bus changes but only one metro ride per ticket. The BIG is a day ticket for 24 hours after being validated and allows unlimited journeys on buses and metro. There are also similar 3-day and 7-day tickets available. Be prepared to have your ticket checked by staff!

This hotel is part of a convent but is professionally run and the staff are helpful. However there are many reminders of this in the decoration with many religious paintings and religious books in the rooms. The rooms are simple - a firm bed, desk, and chair with a tiled floor but are a reasonable size and are very clean. The breakfast is adequate and the breakfast room pleasant - however the tea should be avoided. One downside is that the hotel is on a busy road and it can be noisy if you are in one of the rooms at the front - however do ask as if possible they will move you.

However, its location is great as its close to Santa Maria Maggiorre on Via Cavour, and easily accessible from Cavour metro stop and a short walk from the main train station, as well as having a bus stop just outside that crosses the city to Travestere. There are quite a few restaurants in the area - some are better than others, but note there is a good gelateria (ice-cream shop) just down the hill from the hotel!

One of the most recognisable sites of Rome is the Flavian Amphitheatre, or now as its known - the Colosseum. It is a feat of engineering and architecture especially as it was built in the first century. This arena is amazing enough on the exterior especially when lit up at night, yet take the opportunity to see the interior also.

Part of the distinctive architecture of the arena is the three levels of arches - each of a different style- Ionic, Doric, and Corinthian- which give a sense of the grandeur of the structure. Despite having been abandoned and stripped of many of its assets to be used in other buildings including much of its marble cladding, it still remains impressive - its size, design, and construction are breathtaking - to have stood the test of time is proof of the Romans ingenuity. The wooden floor of the arena has gone and the rooms that lay beneath, where animals were kept and gladiators waited, are now revealed, giving a glimpse into what was necessary to run this entertainment arena. It only takes a little imagination to see its former glory, with huge crowds cheering watching the many events that happened here including gladiator fights. Despite the association of Christians being thrown to the lions here, (including declarations by the Pope in mid-18th century and a large cross Colosseum) there is no evidence to support this theory, but Christians were killed at other sites in the city.

We missed the worst of the crowds by going in the late afternoon, and so we had space to wander unheeded and to consider the immense building this is. The sun was setting and the stone glowed a beautiful pink shade. The upper levels give a better view and tend to be less crowded, and there are also views out over the Arch of Constantine but take care with the very steep stone steps as they are lethal and slippy. It was worth taking time to sit and bathe in the awe of the building in a quiet spot, and to recall this emblem of Rome in its pagan days with its gruesome past.

If you buy a ticket for the Colosseum it also includes entrance into Palatine Hill - since we got tickets in the evening they were valid until noon the following day, and cost about 12 euros. Queues for tickets can be very long (except the group ticket queue) as there is only one entrance now compared to the original 80. The arena opens at 9am but closing times vary depending on the time of year. Take care of your possessions in the area outside of the Colosseum as there are pickpockets about.

This fountain is built on the back of a Renaissance palace, with water tumbling over rocks with various statues into a pool. It was started in 1732 to the design of Niccola Salvi but took several decades to complete the work. The central figure is Neptune in his chariot with a Triumph arch symbolising the taming of water. Above are bas-reliefs depicting the origins of the aqueduct - the Romans had a tradition of building fountains at the end of aqueducts - and close to this was the terminus of the Acqua Vergine and its fountain it was badly damaged and was later restored in the 15th century and a new fountain was built. However, Pope Urban VIII wanted some more dramatic and had a fountain built on the current site which was later destroyed to built the current fountain.

Of course there is the tradition to throw a coin in the fountain to ensure your return to Rome. The money is cleared out regularly and used to help the poor in Rome. The fountain may be a stunning baroque example, but the crowds around it make it difficult to get a clear view of it. Its size makes it nearly impossible to get a photo of the entire fountain, but any photo fails to grasp the grandeur of it. Note also there are lots of people attempting to sell various items and if you stand still for a moment they will flock around you.

The narrow streets surrounding the fountain are full of small shops selling cheap tacky souvenirs, if you are looking for such items there is a good concentration of them here with reasonable prices. But the cafes and gelaterias close by are not exciting so hold off and walk a little further.

This church is a little off the beaten track but has incredible fourth century mosaics, some of the earliest in Rome. It is tucked on a side street close to Santa Maria Maggiore, and is below street level and is quite small and quiet with a pleasant courtyard. However how the church became called Santa Pudenziana is a mystery with the story of a woman called Pudenziana - with the Roman Catholic church rejecting that Pudenziana existed and declaring her invalid, though the church retained the name.

One alternate story is that it is a derivation from Pudens who is mentioned in the New Testament as a Christina in Rome and that he lived in this area of Rome, but that this connection was later lost and a woman holding the name Pudenziana was created as explanation. Despite all the confusion, the mosaic in the apse is beautiful, with Jesus and disciples sitting in a what could be described as a Roman setting and in Roman dress. However, later renovation lead to two of the apostles being knocked off one at each side. There are several other paintings that are much later in date but they pale in comparison to the mosaic. If you are visiting Santa Maria Maggiore, take a few minutes and walk across the way to visit this church as the mosaic is exquisite. Entrance to the church is free.

This is a fascinating find that is not on the major tourist sight list. There is a 12th century church named after Clement, a 1st century church leader in Rome (who is acclaimed as the third pope), which is pleasant, but it is part of the latest layer of the history of the site which is now administered by Irish Dominicans. It was the Irish Dominicans who discovered that there was an earlier church on the site and started excavations, and discovered not only a 4th century church, but a deeper earlier layer also.

The church is lovely with 6th century marble choir section that was originally in the earlier church and then moved here and simply looks elegant. Also there is an incredible golden mosaic in the apse based around the theme of the Cross as tree of life which is simply beautiful. It's considered that this mosaic was somewhat of a copy of an apse mosaic in the 4th century church below, as it seems to reflects a style and content more suited to the fourth century than the thirteenth.

Underneath the church are a further two layers of history that have been partially excavated. The bottom layer is remains of Roman houses and a Mithraic temple which were built after the fire of 64AD that had destroyed the area. You can also hear and see an underground river rushing by, making its way to the Tiber, which gives the excavations a sense of unease that the foundations are built on water.

Above this is the middle layer of a church that dated back to 392AD. Some parts of the church has yet to be excavated and other parts remain bricked up. The structure that has been unearthed had a nave with an aisle on either side but there have been walls built between the pillars. There are several paintings on the walls depicting bible scenes and scenes connected to saints, but they are quite faded and others are fragmented. They are quite interesting if you are interesting in early church history and its impact on artwork, something I have done some study in, but they are probably not that fascinating to most other people.

Entrance to the excavations costs 5 euros but note that they are very warm and sticky and that no photography is permitted. There is a small courtyard outside the church which is pleasant to refresh yourself after the breathless underground experience. Although it is possible to see other early churches in Rome, I loved San Clemente as it provided at least three layers of history and showed how Rome had changed and developed over time from a pagan city to being a great centre of Christianity. It is worth a visit to get a sense that Rome is the eternal city that is constantly evolving.

I was fortunate to get tickets to the excavations under St Peter's - the Scavi - as only 120 visitors are allowed down each day, and tickets have to be applied for in advance. The tickets cost 10 euros but no under 12s are permitted. You will be allocated a set time to arrive and taken down in a group of 12 by a guide. No backpacks are permitted and must be left in the office, nor is photography permitted. Once in the excavations the atmosphere is dusty, hot and humid and with the narrow corridors it is not the most pleasant environment.

The guides are well informed and give detailed information as you are lead around the excavations. The excavations under St Peter's discovered a necropolis, a burial place - a city of the dead - with streets and various rooms that belonged to wealthy Roman families where their dead relatives were entombed. Some of the rooms are beautifully decorated, including one where the ceiling depicts Christ as a sun god. The necropolis was discovered by accident but the excavations were commissioned to discover if it was true that St Peter was buried beneath the altar of St Peter's as it was claimed. This is the centrepiece of the tour, a small cheaper grave that has a ancient graffiti wall that indicates that early Christians believed Peter was buried here. The tour guide will explain that bones were removed and later replaced in a niche in a plastic box, which you are able to see. You can see the marble of the earlier altar of Constantine's basilica that is built directly on top of this grave, and the current altar is directly above this. Whether or not this is grave of St Peter or not, it certainly seems that early Christians believed that Peter had reached Rome and that he was buried here.

The tour ends in a small elaborate chapel before you are lead down a corridor into the grottoes were previous popes are buried, close to John Paul II tomb. If you are fortunate to receive tickets for the excavations, it is an incredibly interesting tour and worth enduring the oppressive atmosphere in it.

The Vatican and St Peter's is the centre of Roman Catholicism, and St Peter's architectural matches its re-position. Its dome is one of the key features of the Rome skyline and it can be seen from many places across the city. Its grandeur is enhanced by the large Piazza that is in front on the Basilica, and is edged with a covered colonnade. At the centre of the piazza is a obelisk that is 13th century BCE and was moved to Rome in Nero's reign as emperor and later placed here.

The emperor Constantine had a church built here in around 330, but this was replaced as work began on the new basilica in 1506 and completed in 1623 with several architects, including Michelangelo being involved in its design. The result is a magnificent building that is considered the largest Church building in the world and has a capacity of over 60,000.

The interior of the building is elaborate and there is a sense of immense space. There are a great many statues and monuments, including Michelangelo's marble carved Pieta which is close to the entrance, but this has a protective glass shield.

There is free entrance into the basilica, however there are strictly enforced regulations about dress in that shoulders and knees must be cover. It is also possible to visit the tombs of the previous popes under the church, but I would probably skip it unless you are especially interested. Note if you do visit the grottoes the exit from this takes you outside the basilica, so make sure you explore the interior of St Peter's before you go. It is also possible to climb the dome for 5 euros, but there is often a long queue to do so, and so we skipped it.

The Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament, is open but it is as the sign states "Only those who wish to pray may enter" and thus it is a place of peace and stillness for many visiting Catholics. There are also regular masses said in St Peters several times a day - details can be found on the website www.vatican.va. And just for fun why not send a postcard from the Vatican City which is a separate country governed by the Pope. It has its own post office and you'll postcard will get a Vatican City postmark.

I'm not a Roman Catholic but I can appreciate St Peter's importance for millions of Catholics. But Saint Peter's is still an inspiring place that is well worth a visit no matter what your religious views are.

This is one of the few buildings that have survived fairly intact from ancient Rome dating from 125 A.D., although was an earlier pantheon here from 27 B.C. Its name implies that this was a temple to many gods, but it isn't clear how it was used for worship. However, in 609 A.D. it was consecrated as a Christian church and dedicated to Santa Maria ad Martyres. This conversion into a church is the reason that the building has been maintained, and it is still used now with mass said on Sundays at the altar. Much of the building's lavish decoration has been removed over the years including stripping the bronze roof. However, it is the architecture of this building that is breathtaking.

You wander from narrow streets into a piazza that is dominated by the Pantheon. The square has various cafés around the edge but it is quite noisy and busy with tourists and not really the most pleasant setting, there are more pleasant piazzas close by. The grandeur of the Pantheon is clear but it is unfortunately crowded by the surrounding buildings so that it cannot be fully appreciated.

The interior is quite amazing because of the architectural design rather than the decor. The dome is quite spectacular and was the largest dome in the world for hundreds of years. The dome was created by pouring many rings of concrete mixed with volcanic pumice stone. The dome has a equal diameter and height at 142 feet and has an open oculus of 8 metres diameter. The oculus is the only source of natural light in the building and is quite amazing as a distinct and visible beam of light radiates down. Beneath the floor is sloped into drains so if rain falls through the oculus it runs off. The interior of the dome has five rows of 28 square coffers that increase in size from the oculus. These indented squares make the dome look stunning with the pattern of light and shadow created by them.

Around the circular interior of the building, which is decorated with coloured marble, are various side chapels and niches, including the tomb of the artist Raphael, and several Italian kings also had tombs created here. However, these are probably of less interest that the incredible structure which you can tell simply by the number of people staring up. The building with its dome and portico has been an inspiration for many buildings, and Michaelango apparently studied the dome here as well.

This is an incredible example of Roman architecture that I found well worth visiting. It is open daily from 9am to 6.30pm except on Sunday when it closes at 1pm. Entrance is free, and there is no queuing normally as the building is so huge inside there is room for a large crowd.

This was built by the emperor Constantine, who declared Christianity legal, as a mausoleum for his daughter Constantina (Constanza being the Italian form) who seems to have been a Christian. It was built in a cemetary in the style of a round Roman masoleum but it had distinctive Christian elements. It wasn't intended to be a place for Christian worship, but a Christian masoleum. However, it was later consecrated as a church in 1256, as Constanza became venerated as a saint and so the church was dedicated to her.

The building has a central domed space that is surrounded by circular barrel-vaulted ambulatory. The ceiling is ornately decorated with mosaics that use traditional Roman scenes but with Christian motifs included and thus have been interpreted as the adaptation of existing art styles but with Christian symbolism eg sheep, shepherd, and vines. Santa Constanza has some of the earliest surviving Christian mosaics, and they are well preserved. The ambulatory is separated from the central space by Corinthian columns with arches between them.

The church is quiet, few people make the trip out of the city centre, and is also cool but is slightly musty. Having studied a little on early church art and architecture I loved coming to see these early Christian mosaics. It is an interesting example of how Christianity developed as it became legal in the empire under Constantine, and how the church adapted existing structures and art for its use. It was a pleasant trip out of the city centre, with regular buses along Via Nomentana to Termini station it is easily reached. Santa Constanza is in a complex with Sant'Agnese fuori le Mura which also has catacombs beneath it. Santa Constanza is open Monday 9am-noon, Tuesday-Saturday 9am-noon and 4-6pm and Sunday 4-6pm, and has free entry.

Although the church dates back to Pope Honorius I in the 7th century, it was altered later with a Baroque style. The original structure of the basilica remains as well as a mosiac in the apse which depicts Saint Agnes with the pope who is holding a model of the church.

The church is dedicated to saint Agnes who is said to be a 13 year old martyred in 303 A.D. in persecutions of Christians by the emperor Diocletian. She was buried in the catacombs here with an enlarged space in front of it.

The catacombs were burial places that were cut into the soft rock outside the walls of the city. Many Christians were buried in the catacombs because of beliefs in bodily resurrection. The catacombs consist of corridors with niches cut into the walls, for bodies to be placed in and then sealed with a slab. There were also rooms off the corridors which had similar niches, but often belonged to a family.

It's possible to have a tour of part of the catacombs for 5 euros. The atmosphere in them is quite unpleasant, dusty, musty, and humid but it is probably nothing compared to these passages lit with oil lamps and the smell of decaying bodies. Our guide was quite good at explaining how the bodies were buried here, how graves were marked and pointing out several interesting things in the catacombs. The tour isn't very long and it gives a good insight into the burial of the dead in the catacombs. Despite legends it's very unlikely Christians met to worship down in the catacombs but rather the Christian symbols engraved marked graves of Christians. It was an interesting way to see a different side of Rome, particular as I have some interest in early Christian art and the catacombs show signs of the earliest symbolism used. Note that photography is not permitted down in the catacombs, however, there is a small range of items for sale in the church including some postcard and terracota oil lamps.

Entrance to the church is free but the tour of the catacombs costs 5 euros. Opening hours are the same for both at Monday 9am-noon, Tuesday-Saturday 9am-noon and 4pm-6pm and Sunday 4-6pm. There is also the church of Santa Constanza in the same complex which is worth a visit. Sant'Agnese fuori le Mura is easily reached by bus from Termini Station with frequent services including an express service with fewer stops. A trip out here is well worth it. 

This hill was the home of many of the greats of Ancient Rome including many of the emperors. The hill is scattered with the remains of grand villas, their extravagence shown in the marble pillars scattering the site with a few still standing and some small sections of remaining floor mosaics that are incredible in detail and colour.

The hill is quite pleasant with a garden area, and lots of shady trees. It also provides a great respite from the heat, dust and busy streets of Rome, with its green sereneness and the cool breeze that fans the hillside. You are also provided with great views across much of Rome, ancient and modern.

If you buy a ticket for the Colosseum, entrance to the Palatine Hill is also included, making it a reasonable deal. The Palatine Hill may be more ruins, but its much less crowded than the forum and so on below, and you can catch a glimpse of the grandeur of what Rome had been like. The Palatine hill is interesting but either read up a little before you go so you have a notion of what you are looking at, or take a tour (or eavesdrop on a tour) - otherwise it is just lots of ruins.

The atmosphere of the Palatine hill is much more pleasant than the Forum - firstly it tends to be much less crowded but also up on the hill it gets slightly more of a breeze. There are also lots of shade - so if you have a picnic lunch its a good place to take a break and enjoy it. I would put it on my list again in visiting Rome as a different pace but yet another slice of insight into Rome's history.