The Rich Port in 5 Days (Puerto Rico)

There were so many highlights to this trip. Beyond the ability for me to see the hometowns of my grandparents, Cayey (in the mountains) and Aguada (Northwest coast) we were also taken by the rainforest, El Yunque, whose giant tree ferns filter onto forest paths the most subtle amber ambient lighting. Also, most soothing and intriguing, both in the rainforest and the trees of the coast, is the chorus of the coqui, a Puerto Rican frog whose chirping tinkle sounds just like its name. Another highlight of this trip was La Playa Crash Boat, by far the best beach we have ever visited on the Puerto Rican mainland (and, by car, we went to at least 10 beaches around the island). Here, the water is translucent turquoise as far as the eye can see and there are no reefs anywhere near the shore, unlike almost all other beaches in PR. Puerto Rico is a very reef-riddled island, and it can be hard to find a beach for swimmers who like to drift out farther, and not have to worry about reef close to shore. In addition to the lack of reef and beauty of water at La Playa Crash Boat, the beach is lent even more charm by its cliff caves, small caves open enough to just about fit a human or two. The washed up boat, a small wooden skiff clinging to a large side of metal on the shore, that the beach is named after, is also of interest. It is a wonder how the boat remains where it is without washing away, or decomposing quickly and entirely. Also, don’t forget to swim out to the long cement pier and jump off the way you will see locals doing! It is fun and quite a rush, but make sure to have a local help pull you up and over the rusty metal ladder you must climb to get onto the pier.

Quick Tips:

Get Que Pasa! Magazine at the airport! Especially if you are renting a car and driving around. It has listings of things to do on the island by area (north, south, east, west, or central) and decent maps of the island, although I would suggest getting a very comprehensive map if you are planning to do a lot of driving. Also, remember – you may get a bit lost in PR but don’t panic. You will almost always end up back at a main route or highway. It is very hard to get lost here for very long as the island is not huge. Another suggestion, if you plan to drive around: make sure to check the weather in the part of the island you will be visiting. Sights (such as the Camuy Caverns in NW PR) may be closed due to inclement weather, especially in the mountains, or outdoor coast if it is going to rain.

Best Way To Get Around:

By far the best way to get around is by car, if you want full mobility. Buses move slowly and only go to certain locations. If you plan to stay only at your resort then transportation isn’t necessary, or you can call a taxi for transportation into, say, old San Juan if you’re staying at a resort in San Juan. If you stay outside of San Juan I’d highly suggest a car.

This was by no means a luxury hotel, and was quite a bargain off-season. The beach at the hotel, by daylight, was not at all nice. It was full of large rocks and almost imposible to swim. It looked turquoise, but upon entering it was really brown from seaweed and other washed up natural debris. The SE corner in general is not the place to stay for beaches.

Other than this, however, this was a great place to stay for budget and quiet. Each room has an ocean view and all doors to rooms open up onto the beach. And in off-season, there is almost no one here. You can slip off down their beach and make love under a palm tree without anyone noticing. Hell, you can get naked in the pool late at night without anyone noticing. And Patillas is so quaint and colorful, it is a true Puerto Rican experience. And the hotel is so close to the ocean, just 30 feet or so, that the sound of lapping waves will help you drift off to sleep.

Fantastic dining! We gorged ourselves here on native Puerto Rican food. Make sure you get plenty of Pina Coladas - this is the home of the Pina Colada. The atmosphere is great, the restaurant has no roof and you feel like you are in Europe. The service here is also excellent. Enjoy such native dishes as chorizo and fried plantains...just don't eat too much! The food was so good yet so heavy that I threw up later.

You get two tickets for free drinks. Sit out under the metal awning and enjoy them before or after your tour! Taste different types of Bacardi not often seen, such as the Bacardi Reserve. And who doesn't enjoy free drinks? Other than this, it's pretty typical. Board the tourist tram for a tour of the factory or go in the store to buy Bacardi liquor and merchandise (ashtrays, sweatshirts, shorts, playing cards, glasses etc.).

The beach at Luquillo is quite interesting! The beach is behind the kiosks, and you can drive right up onto the sand under the palm trees. People bring coolers and it looks like people tailgating before a concert. The beach has a lot of litter on it, but the water is nice, clear, and calm. The kiosks in front of the beach are a good time. They sell alcohol and  you can even get a coconut filled with alcohol mixed with coconut milk. You drink it through a hole in the coconut with a straw. You can also get a snack from the kiosk such as an empanada or papa relleno. At the very end, in kiosk #11,  there is a kiosk known to be a gathering place for gay PR women. The kiosks are run-down and shanty-looking, but have much Puerto Rican flavor and are a fun place to drink on the beach.

The island is beautiful and has so much to offer. I truly believe you are missing out if you don't venture outside your resort or San Juan. Remember, every corner of Puerto Rico boasts different landscapes and natural wonders. In the southwest, don't forget to see Patillas and El Charco Azul (a cool blue pool locals love to swim in). In the southwest mountains, make sure to drive past El Canyon de San Cristobal, the equivalent of the Puerto Rican Grand Canyon. In the northeast drive to the ferry in Fajardo and take it to Culebra to see this island. It is known for some of the worlds best beaches. You can also visit Luqillo and its beaches and kiosks, or Old San Juan for dinner, drinks and nightlife. In the north, go see or take a dip in the hot springs. While north, also drive to see the second largest city on the island, Ponce, or up the western coast where there are beautiful beaches and scenery. Watch the scenery change from lush green rainforest, in the east, to dry brown forest in the west. Drive to the Camuy Caverns or native Taino Indian worship grounds in the northwest. Or simply get on La Ruta Panoramica and drive through central mountainous Puerto Rico taking in the enchantment of the island. Just don't forget, PR may be a US territory, but it is still a foreign country. Try to address locals in their language, you are never sure, outside of San Juan, who speaks English and I think it is more courteous to at least attempt to communicate in native language than in your own. Locals will know if you are not confident in their language, and if they speak English will most likely give you the courtesy of responding in English. Don't take this island for granted. It is small but beautiful, and the local culture here thrives. Find out some of the local history, appreciate the artisans, and enjoy and respec the island.

Adventures in Puerto Rico from Patillas to Rincon, Luqillo to Mayaguez. Driving allows one the freedom to roam, to see all that Puerto Rico has to offer, from its gorgeous beaches to its alluring mountains.

By far the best place I've been to kayak (and I've kayaked in Rhode Island, Connecticut, Maine, Florida etc.).The trip takes place in the dark of night, which makes it feel like a creepy adventure. Kayakers are divided up between those who speak Spanish and those who don’t, so an appropriate guide can be assigned. The kayaks are tandem, so two kayakers per boat, paddling at the same time. The guide will explain rowing, synchronizing, turning etc. You don’t have to have experience kayaking. The water, despite this being an ocean kayak trip, is extremely calm in the areas where you will kayak, making the rowing much easier than in moving water.

Once everyone has donned a life jacket and been given instructions, kayakers follow their guide or the people in front of them, single file. Just a short row away and you are guided into a mangrove canal (a narrow lane of shallow water arched over by mangrove trees). It is in this channel, covered by mangroves, that you will see the best bioluminescence, because the tree branches block out the light of the moon.

TIPS: Make sure you schedule your trip for a night when the moon is not going to be full. The best night to choose will be the night the moon is the smallest and least bright, because the light of it diminishes your ability to see bioluminescense in the water.

The guide leads his group down the mangrove channel, and will explain the growth of the mangroves, their importance and structure. He will also point out other natural wonders of interest. Then you will paddle farther down the channel, taking almost an hour to reach the Great Lagoon, a large lagoon that the channel opens out into. Before this, however, you will begin to recognize and see the glow in the water. Run your hand in the water next to your kayak as you drift along. Trails, much as the trails seen in a photograph when the photographer has moved as he take the picture, are visible. In the darkest, most covered areas is where you will see the most shocking luminosity.

Once in the lagoon your guide will tell you about the bay, that it is one of only 5 like it in the world now, and those left diminishing from human pollution and in great danger of destruction. In just this past year one of the last 6 bays, in Jamaica, was destroyed, leaving only 5. My girlfriend and I had the touching opportunity to be two of the last people allowed to slip out of our kayaks and swim in the bay, as new regulations have just been passed disallowing anyone to swim in the bays any longer, due to their great endangerment, and the killing of bioluminescent plankton by the use of human sunscreen, bug spray, perfumes, etc.

Rincon is located on the ocean on the northwest coast of Puerto Rico and is known worldwide for its surfing and incredible waves during season. Although we were here in off-season, Rincon was still a worthwhile place to visit. It is quaint and bears the air of the bohemian, the hippy and the surfer. Visit the Rincon Rasta Shop for a small selection of paraphernalia and unique wooden jewelry, or go to the center of town for shopping. El Cielo BBQ across from the Rasta Shop is a great place to get a huge BBQ meal and drinks on the cheap. Go down to The Bubble to see great waves during season, or check out the Rincon lighthouse. Drive just 20 minutes away to go to the Mayaguez casino or travel north and inland a bit to see the Camuy Caverns, which an underground river (El Rio Camuy) runs through. La Playa Crash Boat is also not far from here, nor is Aguadilla, a great little town for handicraft shopping.